UKC

We want a week in Haute Provence in september, sunshine sport climbing up to 6a. We've got the Haute Provence rockfax guide but we aren't familiar with the area at all. We're after suggestions for a good base for the week. A village or small town, charming, with good access to a variety of the easier crags. We'll most likely be self catering. We'll most likely be flying to Nice.
Thanks
Anthony

In reply to ashaughnessy:

Hi there, we stayed near Malaucene. Good range of crags in your grade range. Check my logbook from autumn 2012 for some suggestions at your grade range.

In reply to ashaughnessy:
I think your best bet is to stay in the area around Buis les Baronnies and Malaucene. There is a whole lot of crags in a small area with lots of good sub-6a climbing.
We've visited the area a lot and stayed several times with these people just outside Malaucene.
http://www.le-clos-saint-michel.com/
They have a big choice of gites and in September the pool will probably still be available! The location is idyllic with wonderful views, especially if you stay in the La Grange de Clairier gites high up on the hillside. Laurence and Eric are a very charming couple, very welcoming and helpful, and speak perfect English. The accommodation is excellent and the prices reasonable for off-season. You can walk into Malaucene (which is a pleasant historic town) on minor roads/footpaths to eat out. We have stayed there twice on club meets.
You can also hire road bikes to go up Mont Ventoux if you want a day off climbing.
Suitable crags within 30 min drive include the Dentelles de Montmirail, Combe Obscure, Aiguille de Buis, St Julien, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux (don't recommend!).

If you decide on Le Clos St Michel you might mention us (Lancashire Caving & Climbing) - we might get a discount next time!

BTW, you might think it worth buying the latest local guide (Escalade en Drome Provençale) which is widely available locally and has some crags ignored by RFax (notably Aiguille de Buis). You are also contributing to local bolting costs. Aiguille de Buis Baume Rousse Chaine du Grand Travers (Dentel... Chaine du Clapis (Dentelles de ...

In reply to Rog Wilko:
Consider flying Liverpool to Nimes for the Buis/Malaucene area and have a look at this for Buis self catering

https://www.escapade-vacances.com/fr/destinations/buis-les-baronnies.

(Ubrieux crag at Buis is fine by the way!)

In reply to ashaughnessy:

You could try Enty. He has a self catering gite and other accommodation. He's very central to the whole Buis/Malaucene/Dentelles area, which is absolutely spot on for your needs. He does seem to get very booked up though, cyclists and climbers. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=3879
http://www.veloventoux.com/

In reply to CPH:




As long as you like a row of indistinguishable and undistinguished Ecole routes close to the road and some very bizarre and variable grading elsewhere on the crag. It's not typical of the generally friendly nature of many of the crags I mentioned. (in my opinion)

In reply to ashaughnessy:

Thanks for the suggestions. I think we'll be going to the Malaucene area.
Anthony

In reply to ashaughnessy:

Buis is a very good base. Last time we went there we found a very nice house centrally located for food and shops. Loads of crags.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

I quite like Ubrieux. The stuff right next to the road isn't very attractive but some of the slabs up the hillside a little are very good.

In reply to ashaughnessy:
and there are the new via ferrata(s) at Buis-excellent sport;
and don't miss the Wednesday morning market.

In reply to ashaughnessy:
and take a look at these chalets and mobile homes on a great campsite:

http://www.ephelides.com/locations-drome-provencale.html
(been staying there, on and off, for 25 years).