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Cornwall

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Scruffy 03 Aug 2015
Hello everybody!!
Well, here is my first ever post here on UKC.
Is it rude to be begging for knowledge on a first post? I hope not, but if I am breaching some etiquette please accept my apologies...
I am a Peak / Lakes based climber.
I will be visiting Cornwall next week and will be hoping to find some decent climbs while I am there. Never climbed Cornwall before. I mostly climb trad, HVS E1, maybe E2 and on my more confident days might try something more daunting. On this trip though we are meeting up with my better half's family and there is at least one of them that would like to have a go.
Does anybody know of any decent beginner / easy climbs in the Mawgan Porth TR8 4DA region of Cornwall that I could use to give them a taste of Climbing without scaring them off?
Any information would be very much appreciated!!
 Skip 03 Aug 2015
In reply to Scruffy:

Can't think of anything in that area, it's all rather serious round those parts (someone more local may have better info). The closest "easy climbs" are at Cligga Head.

Far better to take a drive down to West Penwith and try one or more of: Bosigran, Halldrine Cove or Sennen. The other option is Trewavas Head near Helston.
 whenry 03 Aug 2015
In reply to Scruffy:

Skip's right - it's virtually all abseil access only and/or (very) loose and sketchy - nothing I'd introduce beginners to. The exception is Roche Rock, which is about 20 minutes or so from Mawgan Porth.
 Greasy Prusiks 03 Aug 2015
In reply to Scruffy:

Be prepared our cornish grades are well 'ard . Seriously they are harder so go for the very easiest routes for beginners.
 bpmclimb 03 Aug 2015
In reply to Scruffy:

Eaiest access to both top and bottom is probably Trewavas, near Helston, but you're looking at about an hour's drive from Mawgan Porth. However, it's a good choice for beginners: a decent selection of VD and S, shortish single pitch, of which most can be simply set up as top ropes (assuming you have some rigging rope). Rinsey Cove is nice, and Praa Sands is also nearby, if you wanted to factor in a beach.

At Bosigran, Alison Rib is a popular choice for beginners (but you'd have to lead it as it's two pitches). Sennen is both further away and more complicated to get to the crag base - there is a low tide walk in, otherwise it's gully scrambles or abseil. There are some good lower-grade routes there, but FWIW I'd prefer to take people with one or two sessions under their belts, and perhaps not complete first-timers.

If you did want to introduce the family to a few skills in advance (not a bad idea, especially if considering Bosi/Sennen), there's one or two indoor walls not too far away. Granite Planet in Penryn would be a drive of 45 mins or so, and I believe there's a small wall at a sports centre in Newquay (only intermittently available), which would probably be your closest. Could be useful if it rains, anyway.

 AEH 08 Aug 2015
In reply to Scruffy:

I can't say I'd bother with Granite Planet, The Barn up near Launceston is a bit of a drive but very much worth the effort. I can see what earlier posters mean about Sennen but there are people who've learnt there and there are a number of Diff/VDiffs which are good for the novices in my groups of mates. The shelf is non-tidal and can be accessed through a number of gullies (One of which is easy enough to count as a walk-on rather than a graded climb) but high tide/rough seas can make it a little dicey on there. Depends on the outlook of the people you're climbing with.
 Stone Idle 09 Aug 2015
In reply to Scruffy:
The Magic Wood Barn on the Plymouth road is excellent. The rest of the advice is sound

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