In reply to gethin_allen:
> The Rheinogau are very remote, so remote that last time I went there ages ago you could hardly find the paths because they were so overgrown.
That's a sweeping - and basically inaccurate - generalisation. There are good paths to all the summits and on all popular circuits. The only issue is if you fail to find the paths (not all are marked on the maps) or decide to go seriously off-piste. Then, and only then, does the walking become difficult, but nowhere near impossible. The Rhinogau do have a reputation for hard walking though, so be prepared. The area to the north of the Roman Steps is a bit less visited, a bit wilder, so the paths that do exist here are less well travelled.
> Regarding parking, I'd be more concerned about having the car broken into than the parking costs, although there weren't any charges at the Graig ddu isaf carpark when I was there it is a long way off the main road and there are scroats everywhere it seems.
Car parking is as safe, or even safer in the Rhinogau, as in any other Welsh mountain area. I'm currently working on the new climbing guide and consequently my car's always being left in all manner of places with never a problem. Good advice has already been given about the Cwm Bychan campsite. It'll seem as if you're in the back of beyond when you get there.
There are wild camping spots by all the mountain lakes. Llyn Morwynion, Gloyw Lyn, Llyn Du, Llyn Hywel and Llyn Perfeddau are all popular camping spots. The very scenic Llyn Hywel can be exposed, but the nearby Llyn Perfeddau is more sheltered. There are fish in Llyn Hywel which I believe is stocked and a permit may be needed.
Similarly all the small lakes in the Moelwynion are suitable for wild camping and all are stocked with trout by local fishing clubs and a permit is definitely needed there. The terrain is easier for walking here and paths are more established but you're far more likely to see other people as well. With luck you might not see anyone in the Rhinogau, particularly away from the Roman Steps or Bwlch Drws Ardudwy areas.
I know both the Moelwynion and Rhinogau very well and if I had to choose, I'd go for the latter every time. On the whole the Rhinogau are more reminiscent of parts of north-western Scotland than other Welsh (or English) mountain areas. Why go for the usual stuff when you can have something a bit different?
HTH
Dave
Post edited at 09:40