UKC

Apparently there are still a few lines left to try for Alex Megos in Frankenjura. At least there were a couple until recently, when he flashed an unnamed(?) 8b+ and climbed Baroness, 8c, first try. 

I'm sure many of you are now thinking "hang on...what's the...

Read more

In reply to UKC News:
I personally wouldn't say brushing the holds takes away a flash... as long as he didn't pull on them. But then again if Megros thinks it wasn't... who am I to comment!

In reply to UKC News:

Thanks for explaining the difference between flash and first try. I think if abbing a route was allowed in a flash ascent everyone would be doing it and we'd all end up flashing a grade harder. So I think the 'first try' description is totally valid.

Megos is a total legend, following in the footsteps of the Huber brothers and Wolfgang Gullich. His one day ascent of Realization is unreal especially when you compare to the four years Sharma took.

Wondering if any of his new routes have been repeated or attempted yet. He seems to have done several new 9a's from Ceuse, Australia and even Germany I think.

Interesting that doing both of these two routes took less than 4 minutes total climbing time. I wonder what he did with the rest of his day.

In reply to UKC News: not so keen on half top roping, half leading routes. I see it more and more. Anything for the sake of a number....

In reply to Pino:

isn't "anything for the sake of a number" the whole point of sport climbing?

anyway megos is ridiculously good, i would like to see him actually try at something one day!!

In reply to UKC News:

The boy is mutant & kudos for his honesty. Watched him climbing in Spain when he was a yoof & was pretty humbling. Interesting to listen to his views on flashing. Always thought if you flashed a route, you climbed it ground up with knowledge of moves or having seen someone on it [i.e. the same as on/sight but with a bit beta]. If you approach route from top down & look at moves close up, check size holds or gear etc its red pointing territory. Have never heard of anyone abbing a sport route to check it out, then claim a flash. However, the term 'Flash' now seems to be used more and more in trad ascents after folk have abbed routes, looked at holds, checked gear etc, when reality this approach is crossing into head point territory surely. Guess flashing a route sounds a lot cooler than ground upping it, as it should do! [if it was actually flashed]

In reply to teltrabm: absolutely yes, however, one can reach numbers without having to push the boundaries all the time, but I suppose that is life. When a friend of mine sees me climb a route with quickdraws already clipped, he laughs at me if I say I've sent it....