In reply to Freddie 1:
Currently driving back from Saas, and as we left the weather was turning stormy, but next week may be ok? We were using Meteoblue for forecasts.
If bolted climbing is your thing then you can kill plenty of time between the Dri Horlini and the Jagihorn...
Did Panorama on Jagihorn which is a lovely route despite no stars. And Alpendurst on the left is 3 stars, although not sure i agree this is the right way round. There's another route in the middle which i like the look of but didn't get on it. Starts of routes are marked...just walk up there from Hosaas lift.
Dri Horlini has many bolted routes up the Almagellar hut side, and the traverse is great, (if you have some experience of moving together safely/making abseils).
Both of these are around 3000 so might aid acclimatisation?
Weather is warm, so the snow last week was slushy in places, and icy in others. Sometimes ok though. But maybe best avoided until the course.