UKC

Link to last week's thread: 
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=621586

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Psyche video of the week:
Megos monos in the 'jura vimeo.com/135193484

alexm198; More running this week, or back on alpine objectives?
Biscuit; continuing on the comeback trail – did you do your physio whilst on holibobs?
Joughton; sorry, no beta on Hunter-Killer. You’ll love JAD/STE though; when do you go down to Pembroke?
Mutl3y; great day out on the lime ticking 7As. More of the same this week?
AJM; CragX with a lanky twa! And the Queen of the Wave; doesn’t get more peak-ist than that!? (Congrats too for getting your crimp on)
Tyler; was Pierrepoint dry this week for your extreme rock tick?
Nick Russell; good strategy for wrist recovery. Been out on rock again this week?
Hms; Circus Circus can’t be far off with 7b+ in a session form?
Ally Smith; repeat note to self – keep icing broken body parts with high frequency
Dandan82; has been jabbed – we’re all rooting for the steroids to do the trick and get you back climbing.
Flopsicle; looking back and seeing how training has improved your strength & fitness is a great feeling. Climbing when hungover is not a great feeling…
Joyce; how’s the climbing shed taking shape this week?
mrchewy; all the best in Switzerland. I hope the ab strain doesn’t hold you back?
Humperdink; nice little relay win. Zorb football sounds like fun!
Mattrm; back down to fighting weight in time for North Wales hit – what did you get done?
Just Tintin; recuperation complete?

Absentees:
Planetmarshall;

In reply to Ally Smith:


Thanks Ally, I really appreciate the encouragement from FitClubbers, even if it's only because you are all bored of listening to me whingeing about my elbows!
Another very gentle week for obvious reasons, just one core session on saturday, but much more importantly, how have the elbows been doing...

The consultant wasn't wrong when he said it would feel worse for a couple of days, Wednesday was pretty uncomfortable, and then on Thursday it got even worse! Putting on a seatbelt became a two-handed operation to be initiated before I sat in the seat, carrying pretty much anything was a no-go, I could only fill my tank up halfway because squeezing the pump handle with both hands was too painful!
And then on Friday, the area of the injection was still sore like a bruise, but the actual tennis elbow, the pain from performing various actions was gone, completely gone!
I've not dared to push the limits of it yet but I realised that 100 little movements that you do every day that would have elicited a little grimace from me as the muscle tweaked, were suddenly painless, thoughtless actions again!
I can open a door, lift a glass, adjust the collar of my coat as I put it on, reach over to grab something, open a drawer, all fine!
I went a bit loopy on Friday evening, the change was just so marked and so immediate, it made me want to literally jump for joy, I managed to avoid doing anything stupid, like going into the bouldershed(tm), but I was a cheerful ball of energy all night.
I've managed to keep it sensible so far, I did erect a parasol in the garden which did make the right elbow tweak a little bit at one point, but from a much heavier use than would have caused it last week, so it's not entirely cured yet, but apparently the steroids need a week to work, obviously I'd have rather not tweaked it in this healing time but its much harder to tell what will hurt and what won't now that the pain is gone!

Overall, I couldn't be much happier really, the elbows feel like they might be on the way to full recovery very quickly, and I don't even need full recovery to be able to start climbing again at a low level, I will still give it another week before I pull onto any plastic though. The Kaly holiday feels like a possibility again, hurrah!

Oh, and the bill came through for the injections, £50! He told me he though it was between £100-150 and I didn't dare ask if that was for both or per elbow, so £50 was a very pleasant surprise!

STG: Don't do anything to ruin the elbows this week...

In reply to Dandan:
That shed looks awesome. Bet you are busting to use it. Good luck with the elbow recovery. Was it a pure overuse injury?

In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, remember to ice those broken bits!

No more lime for me this week but it's been good!
M-lots of body weight, core, kettle bells etc exercises at home. And stretches! Was supposed to be a rest day after a fair bit of climbing on Sunday but I was psyched.
T- works after work. I was sh1t! Burnt out from the day before plus being on a calorie deficit...just turned up with an empty tank. Managed something like 7 blacks but that was it. All had been done before. Note to self: resting is as important as training!
W- rested to the max. Didn't even do my normal 20k commute.
T- works after work again. Managed 23 blacks, all but 1 had been done before, but that new one I had thought was nails when I tried on sunday. Went down in two goes at the end of the session. Note to self: this testing malarkey works!
F- rest ha ha ha. It's like cheating. Still did my stretches tho. Love to stretch.
S- burbage with family. Tried breakfast f7A quite a few times but couldn't get it done. Time was short and it took me a while to figure out the exact sequence that works for me. On my last go I got furthest tho so think I've figured out...it will go on a crisp day I know it...but when? Possibly baking hot August days aren't officially grit season...
S- potter at robin hoods with family, beastmaker 5B 6 second hangs, managed 42/42 and 34/42. That's my best score since I started beastmakering again two months ago so I was v pleased.

Weight - went back under 65kgs again this morning. Very happy about that. Am really motivated to eat well in all sorts of situations so it's going great.

Good luck to all the other fit clubbers with your paths!

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for doing the stats. It was an easy classics weekend and very nice it was too.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 11st 12lbs (tick!)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st

M - Rest
T - Core
W - Core
T - Oberon (HS) at Tremadog
F - Flying Butress (VD) and Parchment Passage (VD) on Dinas Cromlech
S - Skylon (HS) and Crackstone Rib (S) on Carreg Wastad
S - Drive back (nearly 5 hours!!!) and Core

Month Avg - 77%
Year Avg - 69%

We spent a couple of nice days doing easy classics in the pass. On the way up we ticked Oberon at Tremadog as my mate had previously had a mare on it a few years ago as one of his early leads. I've not climbed up in North Wales much over the years, despite meaning to, it's always been tough to get a whole long weekend away to make the 5 hour slog up through Wales worthwhile. It was quite nice to sit at the belays looking down the pass at all the classic crags I've still yet to climb on. Of the routes, Parchment Passage was an unexpected delight, one of the best VDiffs I've ever done in terms of the excellent position. Oberon was ok (we did the HS 4c variation). The rising traverse pitch on Flying Butress was great as well. It was great to do such a run of classic routes all of which were excellent. Great weekend all in. I would have liked to come back with a VS, but it didn't happen in the end. We'd hoped to go to Tremadog on Sunday but it was raining. So we headed home and as always it took ages. The roads through Wales are bleedin awful!

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally. Hope you had an OK drive home.

Good week for me.

I cant quite remember what I did when but I definitely fitted in an ancap linked boulder and aerocap 1on1off session Tuesday, a footless boulder ancap session and a 1on2off session Thursday and a set of offset pullups Friday. Sometime around it I also fitted in some weighted pull up sets.

Saturday was lulworth day. Beautiful weather, full sun and inviting sea. Unfortunately the cave with horny little devil in was pretty greasy.

Nevertheless, I did the usual warmups and then got on HLD. Managed to do the move I kept falling off and then popped off a greasy hold about 2 moves she of the rest.

There was then a team siege of animal magnetism and crazy notion going on, so I got in line for animal magnetism. Got perfect beta from Sophie and Ally and managed to flash it. Bit of a moment high up when I ran out of chalk on my hands but committed anyway and was rewarded. First proper hard dws tick and also my first 7a+ flash in some time.

Then got back on hld again and managed to hit the jug you get the knees in off but couldn't quite hold it. Less grease and it might well be a goer. Finished off with some swimming and ice cream.

Today was cuttings boulder field. Failed to do coronal mass ejection again but ticked Years around the sun. Nominally V7 but it didn't feel that hard for me so I might wait until I can do nicks weird variant on it before awarding myself the full tick. Either way its a good route climbers boulder problem.

This evening I went to the wall and did a few sets of offsets to get me to a near completion of the week - one fingerboard session shy. I also helped strip holds in preparation for the reset for a bit to get some good karma.

Cycled every day and picked up a few more PB's and podiums. 102 miler next weekend.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Report properly when I fly home Tuesday but its been an amazing week and to top it off - finally found a red wine I like! Oh yes indeed.

In reply to Ally Smith:
You were right, JAD/STE was awesome! So much fun. Didn't end up trying Hunter-Killer because the tides were at all the wrong times but I did Orange Robe Burning instead which was quite intense!

Mon - more core and antagonists
Tue - routes session at MCC. Onsights of 6b, 7a, 7b, 7b+, 7b then failed 7b+. Felt strong, but I'd get pumped quickly, but I could also recover fairly well. Not sure what this means in terms of 'energy systems' but could do with some work.
Wed - rest, drive to Pembroke
Thurs - warmed up on Still Hungover 2000 (E2 5c) and Space Cadet (E3 5c) at St Govans then went to Trevallen to do Orange Robe Burning (E6 6b). Abbed down to check out the thread (I'd been told it was crucial) but all climbing was onsight and gear placed on lead. Quite a stressful experience - unprotected 6a moves off the deck then sketchy 6b above microwires on little smears then super reachy (although thankfully well protected) 6b crux to finish - was all a bit of an ordeal. Conditions weren't ideal in the full sun either! Finished off doing Tangerine Dream (E4 6a) which felt pretty tough as well!
Fri - Met a German guy visiting with his family who was desperate to climb so we took him under our wing for a day at Huntsman's Leap, which meant we didn't get quite as much done. Warmed up on Quiet Waters Direct (E3 5c) then did Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth (E5 6a) which is honestly the most fun you can have on a trad route! Recommend it to any fit clubbers wanting to break into E5 onsight. Then followed Shape-Up (E1 5b) and finished the day with Star Wars (E4 5c). Felt bolder than I'd expected - I've started to realised I really should just stick to my strengths and do hard well protected stuff! I get more pumped being scared than I do by doing hard moves.
Sat - One of my favourite climbing days ever. Warmed up on Suspense (E4 5c) down in Stennis Ford, then headed over to St Govans East for First Blood (E2 5c) and Brave New World (E4 6a), the latter being particularly stunning. Then went over back to Trevallen to finish the trip with Barbarella (E5 6a), which confirmed my theory and was brilliant. Met JimmyKay who used to post on here without realising it was him.
Sun - rest, drive home

So just a short trip but we managed to fit in a lot of good climbing, and I'm really pleased with the E6 onsight but a bit disappointed it didn't feel any easier than the first one! Glad to continue the streak of never failing an onsight in Pembroke though. ORB made me think twice about doing Lord of the Flies though, but my enthusiasm for getting scared might come back in time...

Cheers, Jake

In reply to Ally Smith:

Morning Campers,

Thanks for statting, Ally. Supershed arrived and is up, just a load of sleeper retaining walls to do now.

Training Diary WC 03/8/15
Actual Training (ish)

Monday – Strava Training Plan (STP) run 4 (again as had a week off to dig): - Easy 45 mins ish. Hilly, off road 8.5km in 40:24 at 4:35m/km pace (GAP). Steady uphill for 3km to start and then wound it up. Felt great to have some poke and actually be running again – really enjoyed it. Hefting 80kg oak sleepers around the garden all evening.
Tuesday – Back tweaked from yesterday’s hefting. Snuff Mills bouldering (mostly) with Tom B. Warmed up on some crimpy vertical stuff then threw myself at Captain Obvious (F6C+) many, many times with no joy – a ‘pop’ was required to reach the first incut slot and it eluded me – another time. Had a couple of goes at ‘ground upping’ Apokalypto (E7 6b/c) but my back hurt when I jumped off onto the mats and I climbed like I had was attached to a rod. Did get to the start of the hard climbing though, but then it gets HIGH – will practise this on a top rope before deciding if the solo/lead is worth it. Finished with Oh Dear (F7A) in about 5 goes. Used a crafty sequence to static a dyno to the lip of a cave but was abysmal at the ensuing mantel (done the second time I got there). This stretched my back out a treat – it felt loads better.
Wednesday – Supershed landed! Spent the day assembling it with Dad and Outlaw Dad.
Thursday – Supershed building suspended as the neighbours came to terms with its size and the misunderstanding that the climbing wall would be on the inside and not the outside as they feared (if you don’t know, you don’t know, eh?). STP run 6 (not 5) as back still a bit tight and didn’t fancy full throttle intervals. Ran 11km in 52:04 at 4:32m/km pace. Started steadily to ease the back into it and picked it up from there – a fab evening out.
Friday – Fingerboard session: BM1000 5B. Managed 116/126. Cycled through locks at 135’,90’, full lock each rep. Shoulders and biceps gave out before fingers – found me a good starting point, will nail this workout down and then start moving up as the shoulder/arm strength lets me whole workouts. Shoulder stabilisation exercises and press ups. Felted the shed roof.

Saturday – AM - Accidental Parkrun (should’ve done intervals but the Outlaws dragged me along) At Little Stoke (fastest local course); finished 11th in an all-time PB (from when I was 20) of 18:42. Ran a really good race; paced myself well and remembered how many laps I had to do, which helped. Also, it was ‘Bump’s’ first Parkwaddle, courtesy of the Good Lady Wife – whoop whoop! PM - Biblins Cave bouldering with Tom and Ross. Climbed The Bulge (7A) first go while warming up again and then fell off a fair few times before resending it. Showed the chaps School of Burl (7B), getting to the second last hold first go (best effort yet). Unfortunately, it was steadily downhill from there, skin got hammered and I tired too. Next time…
Sunday – Decorating and garden retaining wall measuring out day – it turns out that digging is great core exercise. Shoulder stabilisation exercises and press ups as well as some core stuff.
Weight = scales are fixed but forgot to weigh myself.
STGs (this week): climb School of Burl, work more of Peckitt’s Traverse. Do some endurance climbing. Do the STP properly this week (inc. intervals). Go to the Lakes for a week’s holiday! Keep up the antagonistic, shoulder stabilisation, core exercises.

Sounds like everyone is moving forwards this week - keep up the good work, team!

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to Joughton:

Effort Jake!

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally.
I did indeed do lots of physio and posture work. I'd put the fact that my back always ached when I got up due to the fact I'm knocking on the door of forty now. Turns out not to be true. Bad posture. So that's two long term aches and pains gone in a few weeks. Need to keep it up.

Holibobs was lovely, with the kids camping in Anglesey. Slightly damp though which meant we had to do indoor stuff. I had packed my shoes and harnesses for the kids 'just in case' and managed to do some bouldering, circuit board work and some auto belaying at The Indy wall and The Beacon ( who make very good cake ). Managed 3 laps of a 6c circuit at Indy and to onsight 6c+ on auto belay at Beacon.

This week will be similar with the kids but at home. I will crack on with the physio ( I had slightly sore elbows and shoulders after the Beacon but I think that was lack of proper warm up) and get some auto belay and boulder work in.

I'm also going to join the gym at the aquatics centre so while JD is swimming I can do some proper focussed physio and conditioning work a couple of times a week. I think at my age maintenance is needed and becoming more important.

Life is still a bit messy for a couple of weeks but come September I'll be part time, have no hurty bits, and have the time to train and climb

Going to make the most out of this next year as time will be harder to come by when I go back to uni next year.

Just sneaked on the scales to see what a week of fish and chips, pub meals and ice cream has done. I've put a pound on and am back in the 18%'s for fatness. I'll get a proper rolling average this week.

In reply to Joughton:
Great stuff Jake.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for the writeup Ally. Hope to get back on CC this week, with new beta re clipping etc, so let’s see how much progress I make. Had an OK week and a good wkend.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Dozen routes – wanted more but partner itching to go home. 2 goes on a new 7a which has a stinky move on I utterly failed to do – good left crimp, poor rounded right crimp, high left foot extreme left, huge rock over, fall off. Frustrating.
W - cycle commute. Fingerboard – warm up then 2 sets concentrating on pockets and slopers as my finger joints had been feeling sore so more crimps didn’t seem a great plan. S&C x 2 in the gaps.
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR, bouldered to warm up then concerted effort on the 45degree board 7a circuit, which is nails. Thought this would be good training for CC as it is just powerful move after powerful move. Best effort was 34 of 40 moves, then scuppered myself by plonking my hand centrally on a hold I had to match. V tired by the end – good session.
F - pottered about. Drove to AJMs house.
S - Winspit sport with Curious Yellow. Rather hot and the wall started greasy. Had a full session trying Avenging the Hasslewell (top end 7b – 7b+ wouldn’t seem out of order). Best attempt got through to pretty much the end of the hard climbing but failed to get a crucial R kneebar to stick quickly enough. A bit more practise & cooler conditions and it would go.
S - Cuttings boulderfield with big group – we had 8 mats so could carpet vast areas. To my considerable amazement, I got a F7a problem – my first at the grade. Took a lot of goes, and could have done without the attempt when my heel got stuck in a tight heelhook which was alarming. V happy indeed. On reflection, I’ve done the vast majority of my route climbing on lime, but this is only the 2nd go at lime bouldering.
Who knows what this week will hold – could be a stressful one. 2 possible sessions on rock planned, weather and belayers allowing.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Whoops - missed a week.

More of the same, but some updates on the long standing hand injury. I went to see Zaf Naqui at Spire Manchester as I was getting frustrated with the pace of treatment on the NHS. A dynamic ultrasound failed to show anything that could likely be improved by surgery ( which, though a negative result, is probably a good thing ). It looks like, similar to Dandan, steroid injections may be the way forward.

Training wise I start a new period this week, with a focus on anaerobic endurance training. Looking forward to some weighted hill runs and 4x4s and the like. So 6 weeks of this will take me up to my Kalymnos trip at the end of September. Sport climbing's not really my thing but I'm looking forward to the trip.

On a personal front, after a year of working at home I start a new job next week - effectively working for myself as an independent software consultant. My first contract takes me up to the 3rd of Jan, which is ideally timed for an extended Scottish Winter trip.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for the stats Ally. Yes, did Malbogies in Avon with Emily. Possibly harder on the wrist than the easy sport last week - more bridging/palming stuff. Anyway, wrist has had its ups and downs but net improvement again. I'm struggling to find positions that hurt it now, which has to be good news.

Didn't get round to the planned fingerboard session last week, will do it this afternoon. Numbers in brackets are 5 day moving averages of am/pm weight. Seems to have plateaued now, approximately where I expected.

M - 11km run. (65.0/65.5)
T - Climbing, Avon: Malbogies. (65.0/65.5)
W - 4km run, core. (64.9/65.6)
T - Trampolining. (64.9/65.5)
F - 40 minute run: 6x(1:30/2:30) intervals. (64.8/65.4)
S - Hill walking. (64.8/65.5)
S - Rest. (64.8/65.5)

General goals:

• Manage rehab for next 6 weeks. Avoid doing too much too early.
  
• Improve the asymmetry.
  
• Get enough running fitness to enter a marathon/half next year without injury concern.
  

Next week:



• Running: one intervals session
  
• One fingerboard session. Deadhangs to avoid sudden loading/unloading from repeaters.
  
• At least 2 core sessions.
  
• Climb outside again.
  

In reply to AJM:


Drive was epic - got home at 11pm - thanks for the pre-drive coffee - it'd have been even more epic without the caffeine!

Good week – original injuries progressed well & DWS was super fun on saturday.
Bad week – another new injury – shoulder made horrible wrenching sound on Sunday afternoon

STG (next 2 weeks)
- Icing every day for broken body parts:
finger (almost fixed – crimped at the weekend)
knee (almost fixed)
wrist (fixed) and
both shoulders
- Rehab, rehab, rehab
- 2x cycle commute whilst injured
- Do 6min plank, side plank (if shoulder allows) and Donnelly core exercises. Antag (if shouder allows) and bicep curls too?
- Maintain sub 76kg weight

Last week:
M - Planned rest. Building Ken’s board.
T - Fingerboard 2, (39.5, 39.5, 39.5, +14.5kg repeaters x4). Handstands, MD core 2x 1min, side plank 2x 1min each side. 15x 1min on, 50s off FO campus, +3kg
W - unplanned rest. Built more of the Office.
T - An-cap fingerboard. Felt strong, but maybe still feeling slightly aero-power as pump built up in first 2 sets? Core and antags. Booze.
F - Planned rest. Booze and too much food.
S - Fun DWS up to 7b flash after epic traffic jam. Booze.
S - Fun boulder in Cutting boulder field. Highlights being 7A and 7A/+ flashes. Good tries working moves on a 8A. Then did something disgusting to my left shoulder on another 7A; hopefully muscular only, but pain feels deeper down than that…

In reply to Ally Smith:

It took Simon 6 hours apparently via the M5. Holiday traffic.

Your beta on the 8A definitely has some similarities with the video but with more weak mans trickery involved.

What's your view on the lip traverse 7A+ grade BTW - assume that's the one you referred to as the 7A/+?

Fingers crossed for your shoulder...

In reply to AJM:

4 hours. It would normally take nearer 2. Could have done without the Wessex Truck Show at Yeovil as well!!

In reply to hms:

Ah, I wondered why there were so many truck cabs without trailers on the A35 on our way back home.

We probably lost 20-30 minutes just driving home from Portland - queues all the way from the top of the hill out of Weymouth to the far side of Dorchester...

In reply to AJM:

7A/+ seemed relatively soft for 7A+, but like you said, might just be because it's a route length/style of problem.

I watched huffy's video - a dismaying amount of hard climbing for a day at Cuttings - his skin must have been trashed!

Weak man's trickery is the only way i can climb 8A...

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally. Still not back at level I was at pre-deironisation pre-holiday, and have a comp on Friday so will have to take it carefully this week. Checking in with the STG comps I am sitting comfortably in second in the Big Rock Summer Leading Ladder and godknows where in Climbing Unit SBL (depends on how many GB juniors turn up on a given month).

M - Sport Monbrun. Nailed the mono undercut crux sequence on the project so should knock it out next time I visit (next year probably!)
T - knackering multi-train travel back to UK
W - nothing
T- nothing
F - Boulder Climbing Unit. V0-2 circuit warm up then working V5-7s
S - Trad Aldery Cliff. Found some bats.
S - Trad Brassington. The less said about that the better.

In reply to Joughton:
That indeed was me. You must have run up Barbarella like it was path. What a great weekend you had! Effort on the E6. I was having a nightmare pulling off the ground on E4's.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers for the thread Ally!

I'm still having absentee mojo issues. I decided to have a no target week, no minimum 10 miles running, no x 3 suspension sessions, no leading stuff I don't really want to, just a go easy week. This is partly due to not feeling well last week and partly due to work being nuts at the mo so I'm often working after munchkin is in bed till the wee hours.

Mon - Nowt

Tues - 2 miles run, nowt special.

Weds - 2 miles run, 2 hrs ropes and leading - didn't climb well.

Thurs - nowt

Fri - clearing garden stuff to tip but nowt else.

Sat - my highlight. My 7 yr old, tidgy daughter wanted to run our Dovedale walk (Dovedale - Milldale). I packed everything from insect repellent to scissors via silver thermal sheet (really? in summer, but yeah, I'm a Mum!), various juices and water etc etc etc... and off we went, she ran the 3 mies there easily so we had an ice cream and she then ran the 3 miles back even more easily! I was seriously glowing as I clopped along behind whilst she ran and ran talking all the way about trolls, goblins, singing monsters, loving running, and whether butterflies like carrots!

My tiny 7 yr old ran 6 miles in The Peak and wasn't even tired at the end. I has an awesome kid!

Sunday - climbed atrociously, failed problems I got easily previously.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally for doing FC now, and a thank you to Dandan aswell for doing it before (I missed out on the switching). Here a write up from all the weeks than I wasn’t able to post.

STG (this week): work out some real STG

Week 433:
Weight: 65.7 kg
M: Sleep on top of the climbing tower
T: climbing indoors, failed 2 draws for climbing the overhanging side of the tower
W: rest
T: Hamburg with girlfriend, lots of walking in town
F: Hamburg with girlfriend, again lots of walking
S: bouldering indoors, flashed a 6A and got 6B+ second go
S: travel to Germany + climbing outdoors in crack mekka Ettringen in Germany, did a 4 and 5-

Week 434:
M: climbing outdoors in Ettringen, bailed on a 4 and worked + toproped a 5
T: climbing outdoors in Ettringen, worked a 5 and toproped it afterwards, finally felt how proper jamming feels like + travel to Austria
W: did a 2 hour walk around town
T: practiced ropework on an easy ridge
F: walked to hut + practicing crevasse rescue
S: Tried on Dreiländerspitze, bailed after starting the scrambling bit due to dark clouds + walk back to the valley.
S: bouldering outdoors, flashed up to 5C, tried the moves on a 7A for fun, but went surprisingly well.

Week 435:
M: hiking for around 4 hours
T: hiking + small scramble, 5 hours
W: hiking + scrambling, 8 hours
T: bouldering outdoors, flashed a 6C according to the guidebook, but we agreed on it being 6A+ ripped skin on first try 6A afterwards, so short session
F: rest/ swimming in a lake
S: climbing indoors, did my first 6c onsight, also 2/3 7a first try and 3/4 second try
S: hiking, 5 hours

Week 436:
M: bouldering outside, tried on to 6Cs, one was too hard, the other I slid off after the crux, got a flapper exactly on the fingertip that was the key of the crux, went swimming afterwards
T: walk in to hut (3 hours) + practicing ropework and abseiling
W: did a ridge climb graded D according to the guidebook, but according to others in the hut was more like PD+
T: did a long glacier walk + small grade F scramble to the top
F: back to the valley + travel to a different area
S: climbing outdoors, first day on limestone ever, climbed onsight up to 5c and didn’t try anything harder.
S: climbing outdoors, climbed 2 5b’s onsight, then dogged and toproped a 6a

Week 437:
M: hiking for 4 hours, then indoor climbing, onsight up to 5c, then worked the moves on a 6b
T: climbing outdoors, 5a+ and 5b onsight, then a fall in the 6a I tried on Sunday
W: climbing outdoors, did a 2 pitch route with my mom and then redpointed the 6a, in the evening indoor climbing, onsight up to 6a+, came 1 draw short for onsighting a 6c, tried a 7a and got halfway and redpointet the 6b where I worked the moves on Monday
T: pack tent + driving
F: travel ‘home’ + a quick stop in Ettringen, there was a grade 5 fingercrack that I couldn’t get out of my head I just needed to give it a go and I onsighted it, was really pleased with that.
S: rest
S: rest

Week 438:
M: climbing indoors, climbed the overhanging side of the tower by a 6b pleased with that on my last day in the Netherlands
T: travel back to Norway
W: pick up gf at the airport, but her flight was delayed so I made a 2 hour beachwalk
T: rest/ 2 hour walk
F: climbing outdoors, fixed a toprope on a 4 for my girlfriend and then downclimbed it to strip the gear + 2 repeats of a 6
S: planned on climbing, but up on arriving at the base, we both had 2 ticks, so bailed and went for a swim
S: bouldering and climbing indoors, had a hard time reading taped boulders, almost managed a 7- onsight

In reply to JayK: Yeah I saw your name in your mate's logbook, nice to have met you even if I didn't realise haha! Barbarella definitely didn't feel like a path, really struggled on the move into the crack but I will admit I spent less time in the break than your friend...

Hope you guys had a good trip too!

In reply to Ally Smith:

Any fitclubbers climbing at Pembroke this weekend? I'm keen to get down there again and the weather looks ok at the moment. Saturday would be best for me. But I could do Sunday.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Hi all,
Minor hijack,
Used to post on FC, and know that the people on here may be interested...
Have some space on a Lundy trip which I'm trying to fill. The group is low ability grade wise (mostly sub E1). Myself being the most ambitious leader. You can check my profile for info.
5-12 sept this year. Accommodation is in the barn.
If anyone is interested, please get in touch with me.

Thanks.

Kevin.

In reply to Ally Smith:

M: Planned rest
T: Planned rest (probably overkill)
W: BoulderUK, lots of new problems. Did lots of V5s even a V6 but still failed on a few V5s so not sure if that's an improvement. Felt good and for the first time I ever I didn't have to force myself to stay
T: Planned rest
F: Planned rest
S: Gordale, early start being t due to traffic mayhem arrived after two other people had started working the route as my mate was also keen for repoint I decided to focus elsewhere. Stick clip up CRLH, all moves seem ok apart from one crux section (then watched my mate fall off the very top on his flash go). Second go up just to work crux, got a usable sequence but couldn't quite link. Had a bolt to bolt up Revival should go next time. One more go on CRLH crux which I think I eventually did at the expense of a big flapper.
S: felt battered after a night in the van, skin very sore. Please to get up Old Man River after two working goes. Had to dig really deep so pleased as it's the sort of thing I would given up on in years gone by. Good to get a tick after yesterday's project proliferation.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Hey Ally, still in Turkey last week so yet another chilled one. Back in Chamonix now, trying to get out but the weather has other ideas.

M: Rest
T: 16.1km/450m ascent trail, HR Zone 3. Felt good, though I'm definitely not being disciplined enough about staying in the right HR zones.
W: Rest
T: Short upper body workout - pull-ups and pushups.
F: 8km gorge walk (scraping the barrel here)
S: Rest
S: Rest

Last week's goals: 2 more runs including a 14km circuit I've scoped out just the one run, got the circuit. 2 more bodyweight workouts just one
STG (this week): 2 days climbing, 1 proper circuit session
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally!

M: Tired, am - jog to work 2/3M, pm - run home ~7M in 45:03
Tu: am - jog to work + strides 2/3M, pm - session: 10min tempo, 5min jog then 2 x (6 x 30sec) with 45sec recovery and 3min between the sets. Felt ok and didn't push it. ~8M
W: am - jog to work 2/3M, pm - run home ~7M in 43:35
Th: am jog to work 2/3M, pm - jog home 2/3M
F: am - jog to work + strides 2/3M
Sa: pm - British Athletics League @ Yeovil (3000m). Took nearly 4.5hrs to get there due to terrible M25 traffic etc and only just had enough time to get my numbers and pin them on before starting my warm-up! Needless to say I ran like I'd been in the car for 4hrs. Didn't start well and had to run wide to get up the front. As a result ran the first 600m too quick which came back to hurt later. The winner went from the gun and there was no way anyone else was going to go with him as he is quality so 5/6 us of us were running for 2nd. Felt ok with 2 laps to go and when someone started to wind it up at the bell I moved into 3rd. Sadly with 150 I couldn't kick and 2 of the others could so ended up 4th in 8:46.88. Fortunately it was enough to help the club finsh 4th in the match and 2nd overall and so get promoted!
Then had a 3hr drive home! 6M total
Su: am - 8M easy in 55:33

Total 50M - Ok run again at the weekend. At the moment its just about doing a few more races to finish the season off before a break. No point hammering the training as not going to get any fitter now and just need to try and be fresh for the races and enjoy them.

In reply to Joyce:

well done on the pb!
If you're doing any of the Bristol ones again let me know... if I'm around on a Saturday I quite like to do a Parkrun.