In reply to tistimetogo:
The T-grade is the future of climbing, simultaneously ending all current grade arguments while starting a whole new set:
The idea is you have a simple grade based on how hard the route is compared to the first couple of metres, so by bouldering out the first few moves you get an idea of your chances on the rest of the route. You then have 5 grades...
-2 the rest of the route is much easier than the start.
-1 the rest of the route is a bit easier than the start.
0 the whole route is of comparable difficulty.
+1 the rest of the route get a bit harder.
+2 the rest of the route is a lot harder.
This makes it easy to guage if it is a good idea to try the route but without giving out a tonne of beta or being too subjective.