UKC

Friction Labs is the best chalk you'll ever use, once you've tried it there's no going back to your old brand. Now for the first time the innovative blends of white powder are now available in the UK.

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In reply to UKC Gear:

I like it so much that I want everyone attempting a project I am trying to use Friction Labs Chalk.

I have written a review here on http://www.climbonline.co.uk/friction_labs_chalk.htm

In reply to UKC Gear:

Nerd alert on.

I liked the advertising and the humour associated with this release, and was actually pretty much convinced that I was going to get a bagful for my next chalk refill, and, before I go any further, most likely still will.

I was particularly interested in the science behind the magnesium carbonate: "When exposed to moisture the Magnesium traps water molecules on the inside of its crystalline structure, leaving the surface dry". So, it would appear that more magnesium (Mg) carbonate and less calcium (Ca) carbonate is a good thing: "Many brands out there use Magnesium but Friction Labs have developed a new process to enable an extremely high ratio of Magnesium to Calcium, therefore producing a new level of performance chalk". I remember reading a quote that the Ca carbonate traps moisture on the surface, and that is what makes the dreaded sludge, but I can't find the quote now.

Indeed, the competition that is currently running has a pretty cool ratio graphic, showing that Friction labs have vastly increased the Mg:Ca ratio compared to some competition; up to nearly 0.8. However, I interpret this to mean that there is actually still more Ca carbonate in the composition than Mg carbonate, less than 8 parts Mg to 10 parts Ca.

I was looking at my DMM chalk packaging yesterday whilst refilling before a route, and noticed that they actually provide the chemical composition of the chalk, which I thought was pretty cool. Mg carbonate was there, as well as some (as far as I could make out) hydrated Mg hydroxides (you can just about make it out here www.dmmclimbing.com/products/crushed-chalk-bag). But, critically, NO Ca in the chemical formula. Indeed, in the same link, DMM suggest 100% pure magnesium carbonate. Which, according to Friction Labs' suggestion, is very desirable.

Now, this is all very nerdy, but I work with rocks and minerals, so find it kind of relevant. It's also not meant to be a complaint against Friction Labs, nor fanboyism for DMM; I'm just interested by what makes good chalk. (Crikey, never thought I'd say that...) Any other brands publish the chemical formula of their chalk? Do folks' favourite brands correlate with increased proportions of Mg?

Also, where does climbing chalk come from? Is it mined in this form? My suspicion is no... Limestone/dolomite extraction, refinement and then repressing? Or entirely synthetic production?

Nerd alert off. I want some Bam Bam, how about you?!

In reply to Ben Snook:

Re production: I believe it is mined/extracted as an aqueous slurry before being dried and then either cut into blocks or crushed to give coarse chalk or powder.

I interpreted the Friction Labs gumph as it being 8:2 Magnesium carbonate to Calcium Carbonate. As an ex-chemist it tickles me that they describe it as the "purest chalk" when pure MgCO3 is not chalk at all.

In reply to Ben Snook:

When I first succumbed to the evil of chalk in the 1980s, I bought Light Magnesium Carbonate from the Chemists which was presumably pretty pure.
A quick online search shows you can buy a kilo for approx £15.00 delivered whereas branded "climbing" chalk appears to be in the region of £35.00 per kilo.

In reply to Hat Dude:

Bot sure where you get 35 per kilo from. The Beta Chalk that I sell is around £17 per kilo at RRP (and incidentally is certified pharmaceutical grade and safe to ingest and works rather well. Possibly because it has very little impurity)







Glyn, Drew, Steve et al - I'll send you the invoice for bumping your thread for you

In reply to IainWhitehouse:


That's based on smaller packs and probably a bit steep, although the Friction Labs stuff seems to work out at approx £60 per kilo based on the price of the 280 g packs

In reply to UKC Gear:

My gym sells this for like £3 for a starter pack (like 60 grams or something?) up to £17 for a 400g pack, or something similar to that. I find that regular chalk it takes me a good 5-6-7-8 climbs before it starts coating my hands properly, this stuff coats properly in a single try.

No way on earth is it worth buying a pack of this over 600g of Metolius Superchalk (chalk of heroes) which goes for like £5.

Id be interested in trying it. Im currently using WC Pure chalk as anything with drying agents gives me really bad derm on my knuckles

although tbh, the price puts me off (and I have enough WC pure to last 10 years)