UKC

Hi,

I'm going out to Andorra in a few weeks and would like any advise or where would be a good place to go sport climbing. Or any advise on books to use?

Thanks

In reply to oem_uk:

I'm not aware of any good sport climbing in Andorra but there are good crags near Ax-les-Thermes, which is about 30 mins drive north into France, and a further 20 mins or so will get you to Tarascon, which is in the heart of Ariège sport climbing, with lots of choice and quality. All this area is covered by the Rockfax Ariège guide.

In reply to oem_uk:

Hi, I live there. You are welcome to get in touch. Apart from the great stuff just over the border, there is more inside the country than you might think. I'm slowly putting the crags into the ukclimbing database. The sport climbing guidebook is RocAndorra, to be found in most local outdoor stores in Andorra. About 14 crags, mostly with a dozen or so routes, limestone and granite, most 1 pitch but a few multipitch up to 9 pitches. Grades from 4+ to 8a. Plus some trad high-mountain routes. Also three outdoor artificial walls, free to use, the one at Ordino has the most climbers on a regular basis. There are also 14 via ferratas, which are fun to do.

In reply to oem_uk:

Thanks for your replies and I will have a look into both options.

In reply to oem_uk:

And of course there are all the crags just over the border in Spain, 30 to 60 minute drive from the border gets you to Tresponts, Coll de Nargo, Perles, Obaga Negra and eventually Oliana, Vilanova de Meia, etc etc. Best overview guidebook for all of that is Lleida Climbs by Dani Andrada / Pete O'Donavan.

In reply to Cathy:

That's good to know. Is there a guide or topo available anywhere?

In reply to Cathy:

The via ferratas in Canillo are excellent. There is a brilliant traverse along the lip of a roof that felt quite exposed - good fun.

In reply to john arran:

Guidebook from 2013, so pretty up-to-date. RocAndorra - escalada al Principat d'Andorra, by Patrick Périssé. Available in the Andorra outdoor shops like Viladomat, Carving, Intersport Outdoor. You won't find much online, other than the via ferratas, but I'm now adding the crags to the ukclimbing database.

It's worth coming over for some of the multipitch routes:
Pic de Ribuls N-O éperon directe - high mountain trad, 6a, 6 pitches plus scrambling to summit in Cirque du Pessons
La Margineda - 3 pitch bolted limestone south of Santa Coloma, 6a+

And then the Andorra la Vella granite - there are a number but the top three are:
Banzai, bolted, 6c+, 280metres, 10 pitches
La Capricciosa, bolted, 6a+, 245m, 11 pitches
La Crucis, bolted, 6a, 190metres, 9 pitches

And if you like severely overhanding granite in the 7s, El Carcamanyà delivers! And has shade in summer. youtube.com/watch?v=cZFpzhfqv6A&

The rest of the crags are fun to visit if you are in the area, but I'm not sure you'd make a special trip just for them.

In reply to Morty:

That's the Directíssima - it's great! In my opinion, one of the top three in Andorra, with the other two being Bony d'Envalira (Grau Roig) and Roc d'Esquers (Escaldes).
Roc de la Coma d'Erts (Erts) is quite nice too, although shorter. And right next to a nice little climbing crag.

In reply to Cathy:

Thanks a lot for the info. A whole new world to exlpore just up the road!

In reply to john arran:

If you need a belayer, let me know!

In reply to Cathy:

Thanks, I will. I'm actually away at the moment but later this month if it's hot I may well be interested.

In reply to Cathy:

Just an update - I bought the RocAndorra guide book from one of the outdoors shops in Andorra La Vella and it was really useful and just what we needed.

In reply to Cathy:

Hi Cathy, Thanks for your portrait of Andorra climbing. What altitude is it at (averagely) and what orientation ? What are the limits of the climbing season ?

Thanks

In reply to oem_uk: And any tips on accomodation - last time I was there we tented and then rented an out of season ski chalet, but that was 20+ years ago!

In reply to LeeWood:

Hi Lee, the Andorra la Vella granite is at around 1000 metres, rising to 1200 metres. Other crags are between 1000 and 1400 metres. Things tend to face SE / S / SW but you can move around looking for shade / sun. Season is pretty much all year except maybe December/January. Can be too hot in mid-summer and too cold in winter, but if you get one of those spells of sunny high-pressure in winter, you could easily climb in the sun. Most of the crags are below the normal snow line. Despite the snow, Andorra is often warmer than the Lleida plains in winter, I think because of that horrible freezing fog they get.

As it seems Andorra is not listed, I thought that I might get some answers from here.
So I'm going for a trip in early March to Andorra, Soldeu and I was wandering if anyone knows if there is some easy Alpine climbs (mayby up to AD if mixed, and if short ice up to D+). Or where to get a guide of alpine (and winter/ice) climbs around Andorra.
Thanks in advance.
Ps. Any moderate sportclimbs (around F5 to F6a) and cliffs which are climbable in March near Soldeu. Also interestid in easy bolted (or partially bolted) multipitch-climbs.
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In reply to Hamim:

All the Andorra crags are listed in the database - although for some of them I haven't yet added the routes. None of the climbing is near Soldeu, it is either in the La Massana valley or down near Andorra la Vella. But not that far away.
The rock guidebook is RocAndorra http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1561
Rock climbing in March is perfectly possible. Best multipitch in your grade range below the snowline is this crag: La Margineda, just one route there, three pitch, fully bolted and you ab off, 6a, 6a+ (helpful tree eliminates the + ), 5+.
And Sola d'Enclar Sola d'Enclar La Capricciosa, bolted, 6a+, 245m, 11 pitches & La Crucis, bolted, 6a, 190metres, 9 pitches

For alpine climbing the guidebook you want is Corredores de Andorra, by Pako Sánchez, publisher Desnivel - lists 126 snow, ice and mixed routes. Likely to be found in local outdoor shops in Andorra, or by mailorder from Barrabes or Desnivel.

There are also 14 via ferratas, most of which will be below the snowline. They are fun to do, they are in the RocAndorra guide or get info from the tourist office. There are several good ones at Canillo, so fairly close to Soldeu.