UKC

A recent article I read in Summit (?) magazine got me thinking, what are the last great problems in the Alps and Himalaya? I'd like to compile a bit of a list, just for my own interest mainly.

Any input would be appreciated! Opinions are welcome, any stories about routes etc. would also be interesting!

In reply to Removed UserAnAspiringClimber:
Not sure there are many 'last great problems' left in the Alps, unfortunately. Mainly it's a case of freeing routes that have established aid sections or massive link-ups. There's still new routing to be had, it seems (look at Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey, for example) but the new lines aren't big imposing challenges that shrug off attempt after attempt.

In the Himalaya, the west faces of K2 and Makalu are, as far as I'm aware, yet to see a successful alpine style ascent. The south face of Lhotse is a controversial one - I think it's been seiged by the Russians and Tomo Cesen claims to have soloed it but there are quite a few experienced Himalayan climbers who doubt his story.

Good thread on it here, though a bit dated (e.g. includes the Mazeno Ridge): http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=52525&v=1#x697104

In reply to alexm198:


Note also in my post there (13 years ago!) that four of those routes (Chomolhari, G2, Pumari Chish and Meru) have since been climbed and a few of the others (Ultar, Latok, Kanjut Sar) attempted. North face of the Ogre was also attempted again two months ago (failed, too hot and dry).

In reply to Damo:

Thanks for clarifying Damo.

In reply to Removed UserAnAspiringClimber: Latok north ridge. Think it's been attempted 20+ times iver the last few decades.

In reply to Removed UserAnAspiringClimber:

This is an interesting read, although a year or so out of date.

http://gripped.com/routes/yet-climbed/

I think they failed to summit Nanga Parbat in winter again...that might be a tough one!

In reply to Removed UserAnAspiringClimber:

How about that ridge on Annapurna 3? Also out-of-bounds stuff in Bhutan, etc.