UKC

Sloping Beauty, Earl Crag

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 James Laing 14 Aug 2015
(Beta spoiler) Massive sidepull out to the right at the start- is it in? I can match the crimps by heel-hooking this sidepull, but feels more like font 7a this way. Do you have to go direct from the pocket to the crimps for the full font 7b tick? Any info would be appreciated, cheers.
 GPN 14 Aug 2015
In reply to James Laing:
You're only cheating yourself
 Jon Stewart 14 Aug 2015
In reply to James Laing:

You're better on UKB for this one. Not many Earl aficionados here. Quality crag though, some of the best bouldering around.
 petegunn 16 Aug 2015
In reply to James Laing:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA

John Dunne doing Sloping Beauty about 21 mins in.
Post edited at 10:21
 Jon Stewart 16 Aug 2015
In reply to petegunn:

Never seen that - thanks for the link.
 Offwidth 16 Aug 2015
In reply to Jon Stewart:

The post problem discussion with a very youthful looking Mark being the best bit.
 Jon Stewart 16 Aug 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

My favourite bit is Sid Perou's blurb:

Spent several months working on this film for John Dunne which I suspect was intended to prolong his period as a professional climber. I quite enjoyed making it but in the end, never got paid more than my expenses.
 Offwidth 17 Aug 2015
In reply to Jon Stewart

They cried the tears, they shed the fears,
Up and down the land,
They stole or used
- So the tape would understand,
Without even the slightest hope of a 1000 sales
Just as if, as if there was, a hitsville in U.K.,

(With apologies to The Clash)
 Adam Long 17 Aug 2015
In reply to James Laing:

Sounds like good beta to me! I reckon you can do whatever and take 7b as long as its August.
OP James Laing 21 Aug 2015
In reply to James Laing:

Cheers for the vid Pete, can't wait to get back on it when it's dry again!

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