UKC

Dislocation (E1 5b) is HVS 5b in the available guidebooks entirely.

The previous moderators years past have upgraded it to an E1 5c. I down graded to HVS 5b, climbed it then upgraded it again. VERY SPICY!

I haven't climbed any other E1s or HVS's to know whether it's justifiable. What's the protocol? Any other ascentionists with an opinion? Ta

In reply to zimpara:
Given those stats I'd probaly get some solid E1 leaders to have a look and if they agree, upgrade it with a note on the definitive grade. The only time you cant do this is if its in Rockfax (a situation I still think should be reversed where the grade is obviously wrong).

In reply to zimpara:

It doesn't feel like 5c, and it's pretty safe - there are some decent placements when you need them. I'd say it's borderline HVS/E1 with a tech grade of 5b.

In reply to zimpara:

There are really enough votes there for a consensus. As a rule though it is better to leave routes at their guidebook grade where it is borderline.

Alan