UKC

Bit of help if people would be so kind.

I'm going away for the Bank holiday weekend with my girlfriend. I was thinking about going to Pembroke as it's a pretty traditional place to go that weekend. I thought it would be fun and sociable.

The issue is that my girlfriend isn't keen on abseiling into crags. I know most of Pembroke requires an abseil at some point. My question is are there any good crags which don't need an ab?

Cheers

In reply to Ysgo:

Stennis Head and Chapel Point are accessible without abbing. Can't think of much else though. Part of Porth Clais in North Pembroke doesn't need an ab.

In reply to Ysgo:
Stennis Head has a scramble down to it which isn't too hard. There are a few reasonable VS routes and some great E1s. You can also scramble down to Saddle Head which is the classic easy route venue, although I'm not sure how hard the scramble is.

If you only want to do a bit of climbing and at low grades then you'd be ok, but most of the real classics involve an ab. Gower is a better bet for easier routes and no abseiling but campsites are super expensive and will be rammed on the BH!

In reply to Ysgo:

What grades? I'm guessing sub-E grades, since once you're climbing at that level it would be odd for an ab to be problematic.

Stennis Head is the easiest, non-tidal, non-ab crag. Has a couple of VSs and 2 great E1s. Plus the classic HVS traverse that is way, way more intimidating than an abseil, Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a)

Saddle Head has some easier routes than have an easy approach scramble.

Chapel Head can be reached by a (tidal) walk around, might be something around HVS there - certainly a great E1 crack.

In reply to Ysgo:

I seem to remember some stuff round Lydstep which is accessible. Also Crystal Slans and Bow shaped slabs

In reply to Ysgo:

You can climb straight off the beach at Bullslaughter Bay at low-mid tide, some good routes VS-E2.

In reply to climbingpixie: Bosherton Head and St Govans

In reply to Ysgo:

Several suggestions here are correct in principle but the scramble down descents (eg St Govan's) may be more worrying to someone who is apprehensive about abseiling than teaching them to abseil would be. Stennis main section is OK though - routes are VS upwards.

Martin

In reply to Martin Hore:
We climbed at St david's head last friday , it has a huge ledge above the sea level which is reached by a choice of easy walk downs which I wouldn't describe as scrables more walking down some small rocks. I was happy for my 7 1/2 year old to go up and down unaccompanied it's that simple my wife also did it. I also saw a fisherman walk down with a bag in each hand.

Huge variety of routes

Gratuitous Dad pic....
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10207047957254953&l=027e0a5b58

In reply to Ysgo:
South Pembrokeshire crags without abbing may be far more sociable than you've bargained for on a bank holiday weekend. st David's north Pembrokeshire may be better and less crowded

In reply to Mike Highbury:

Isn't the non-ab approach to St Govans a terrifying polished chimney downclimb? Or is there another way down?

In reply to Ysgo:

The Gower would be much better bet, and bolted...

In reply to Ysgo:

A single route venue not yet mentioned is Sea Groove (VS4b) on the far side of the White Tower at Mother Careys in the Lydstep area. If you want to start with low grades then Bow Shaped slab at low tide is an easy scramble down on the left side looking out.

In reply to Ann S:

Sea Groove would be S 4a/b just about anywhere else ! Good route but not VS in a million years

In reply to climbingpixie:

Yes, that, I'm afraid. But a friend of mine makes a point of using this descent and is always down quicker than those ab'ing, which may be due to the polish, of course.

Bosherton is a walk and v easy scramble round to the Keelhaul slab.

In reply to GrahamD:

Agreed. Only seconded it some years ago but very enjoyable -the sort of route to pick out on day of arrival if you only have time for one route or to do as a last route on day of departure.

In reply to Mike Highbury:


But only at quite low tide.

There is a mid-tide scramble down to Mother care's as well but it is about VDiff.

Alan