UKC

A55 Hole Arête (5c)
Penmaenbach Quarry

I was climbing at Penmaenbach Quarry earlier today and noticed that the Lower off Hangers + Stainless Maillons and Rings had been stolen.

It's not an issue to climb 'A55 Hole arête' at the moment as the original shared lower off with 'Jefferson Slab' is still there. I added the lower off last year so that both routes would have independent lower offs, which is better at busy times or when using the venue with groups.

I have spent a small fortune over the last few years equipping many new routes at Penmaenbach, Anglesey and extensively in the Slate Quarries. It really saddens me when bolts I've paid for are stolen by fellow climbers; I'm no longer willing to pay for their replacement or indeed put the time and effort in to replacing them. So if the A55Hole who nicked them would kindly put them back, that would be great............

In reply to Sl@te Head:

That's a pretty crappy thing to do to your fellow climbers - I hope the low-life toe rag that pinched the lower offs is suitably proud of themselves.

I can understand your annoyance at your hard work and money being robbed like that, but if it weren't for people like yourselves I wouldn't get as much climbing in as I do. So, from someone who uses and enjoys the A55 routes, thank you.

Mike.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

That's proper tight if it's climbers actually doing this. Would it be possible to use a chisel or a pair of bolt croppers to mash the ends of the threads so that the nuts can't be removed?

In reply to gethin_allen:


There's no other way of accessing that lower off other than by climbing the route (or adjacent route) or by a very scary abseil, so pretty sure the thief would have been a climber of some description.

Mashing the ends of the threads can be a good idea, but on a coastal crag such as Penmaenbach it could set off some bi metallic corrosion so probably not the best solution. The Rock at Penmaenbach is one of if not the hardest rocks to drill into in the UK; it's a mission to get the bolts in, in the first place so the extra effort of making them difficult to steal is the last thing on your mind when new routing.

In reply to Sl@te Head:
I will happily pay and replace the lower off's once the A55hole in question is caught and put down !
Just a hunch but I think its the same person different crag every few months - nobody has time for sporadic crag guarding but I'm sure the A55hole will get caught out in the end , karma and all that ! They must have a reason for nicking them ?they obviously climb ,it makes no sense?¿

In reply to Otis:


Thanks, your kind words are appreciated as are all the other 'thank yous' I've had from many other climbers who've enjoyed my routes.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

what on earth would they do with used bolts, surely not sell them.
I do despair with so called fellow humans but then am gladdened that there are people who would go out of their way to do things like place the bolts in the first place.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Expansion bolts are great for new routing but I've learned the hard/expensive way and its resin only for me from now on , however last year I slightly marked all my hangers , lots of which were stolen ! I hope to discover them else where one day , not holding my breath ,,, but maybe find a way of marking all your hangers now ??

In reply to Sl@te Head:

,,, that stuff the police use that shows up under florescent light maybe or similar ??? would it just be a case of turning up at a crag at night then shining a torch , if the bolts glow you know there yours ?¿

In reply to solomonkey:
but maybe find a way of marking all your hangers now ??

Good advice, but a bit late for me I've placed so many already in North Wales! Anyway I'm winding down my new routing activities as I'm planning on buying a Yacht in 2016 which will no doubt be a new and exciting challenge and will replace my climbing / new routing obsession!

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Sad to hear , although I would say don't let the A55hole get you down - most the routes at Penman are great and I'm sure many people have enjoyed your routes and would be sad to hear this . My suggestion is marking the hangers you have places someway from the outside , then make it public so you've got hundreds of people looking for the mark when bolt clipping

In reply to Sl@te Head:
Sad as hell Ian. Its a great venue and thanks for all the work you put in. There have been many lower-off thefts on the A55 crags over recent years but we haven't seen any for some time. What I do now is resin the nuts on the bolt and maillon threads using Araldite. There is no way they will come off again.