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Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=622612
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: Crazy cobbles of Maple Canyon; youtube.com/watch?v=zQdrdEFZTV4&
Fitclubber of the week award – Mrchewy for achieving a long held ambition of climbing Salbit
Mattrm; lots of core and a lob to prove the head isn’t holding you back. HVS is a horrible grade; stick with VSs and E1s…
Biscuit; healthy diet and physio galore. Did you get in those hoped for climbing sessions? (p.s. I can lend you a guide to Thailand/recommend routes/lots of other fun things to do!)
Tyler; body swerved the UK weather! Back on it this weeks?
Hms; sorry I flaked out on a weekend in Bristol – any success to report this week
AJM; work stress sucks. Have fun in the Dollies.
Nick Russell; tactical error on a busy route in a tidal venue? Only one way to learn that one… Weight loss should help with climbing stamina, but you might habe lost some “oomph” from a few weeks off?
Dandan82; return to form has begun – now don’t go doing anything stupid – just remember how bad those weeks off have been?!?
Ally Smith; less said the better. Oh, and buy a new cassette with a 28 tooth for those silly steep hills.
mrchewy; Excellent sounding trip to Switzerland; why did you have to go and spoil it by finishing your holiday in a grotty Peak Quarry?
Exile; bak in the groove – I wouldn’t trust myself not to be very broken after a week’s DH in the Alps!
Mutl3y; project progress?
Planetmarshall; ah, I think you’ll need more than one 4x4 session a week to get in shape for Kalymnos! Did you do anything more specific this week?
Joughton; back to reality with a jolt – 24 hour party people weight loss bonus!?
0.5viking; how did the DWS comp go?
Just Tintin; Comps come and go – like you I got lucky that my house came back on the market after failing through with another vendor – it’s meant to be!
Humperdink; maintaining a steady taper to the end of the season seems to be keeping the race results coming…
Absentees: Joyce; Flopsicle; alexm198;
Post edited at 09:42
In reply to Ally Smith:
Afternoon Ally! Whoops, went AWOL last week as I was chasing the good weather out in the Ecrins and only got back late last night. Good, productive times have been had!
Week 439:
M: Rest
T: Travelling to Cham
W: Evening cragging at Gaillands, 5 routes up to 6a+, felt a bit weird getting back on the rock but soon happy again.
T: Got first bin up to L'Index, walked over to the Aiguille du Belvedere to try a route on the immense SE face. We thought it might -just- be doable in a day, bin-to-bin, but the approach is a complete faff so we sacked it after losing lots of time getting there. Ironically walked back (5 hour round trip) to do the cruisy Mani Puliti (D 5b), 5 mins from the lift station...
F: Rest
S: Drove out to the Ecrins, 2h30 walk in to the Soreiller in the rain.
S: Forecast was good but the weather actually turned out to be sh*t. Day of monopoly and cheap red wine in the refuge.
Week 440:
M: Voie des Savoyards (TD+) on the Dibona. Felt really good, psyched to be consistently onsighting 6a/+ on the granite now, especially on trad.
T: Visite Obligatoire (TD+) on the Dibona. Led the crux pitch which gets 6a+ but seems like lots of people in the logbooks give it 6b. Pretty technical but I felt very much in control.
W: Walked out from the Soreiller, flew up Pain Grille (TD-), more good granite 6a mileage.
T: Rest morning followed by a 5 hour walk-in to the Promontoire refuge.
F: Up at 3:15 to get on Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), all went well bar some route finding hiccups at the start. Rock is chossy low down but improves in the middle. A good, challenging mountain day: route finding, suspect rock, mixture of pitching and moving together, long & involved descent. A big face that I'm psyched to have ticked but I won't head back to La Meije in a hurry, it didn't thrill me.
S: 3 hour walk-out. Drove back to Cham.
S: Rest
Last week's goals: 2 days climbing tick, 1 proper circuit session nope
STG (this week): Just do a bloody circuit session, for god's sake. 3 ticks including Voie Ottoz-Hurzeler (TD) and Innominata Ridge (D+) (conditions dependent). Get some plans in place to head to the Badile and the Dolomites.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD currently on 4. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD) TICK!, Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
Afternoon Ally! Whoops, went AWOL last week as I was chasing the good weather out in the Ecrins and only got back late last night. Good, productive times have been had!
Week 439:
M: Rest
T: Travelling to Cham
W: Evening cragging at Gaillands, 5 routes up to 6a+, felt a bit weird getting back on the rock but soon happy again.
T: Got first bin up to L'Index, walked over to the Aiguille du Belvedere to try a route on the immense SE face. We thought it might -just- be doable in a day, bin-to-bin, but the approach is a complete faff so we sacked it after losing lots of time getting there. Ironically walked back (5 hour round trip) to do the cruisy Mani Puliti (D 5b), 5 mins from the lift station...
F: Rest
S: Drove out to the Ecrins, 2h30 walk in to the Soreiller in the rain.
S: Forecast was good but the weather actually turned out to be sh*t. Day of monopoly and cheap red wine in the refuge.
Week 440:
M: Voie des Savoyards (TD+) on the Dibona. Felt really good, psyched to be consistently onsighting 6a/+ on the granite now, especially on trad.
T: Visite Obligatoire (TD+) on the Dibona. Led the crux pitch which gets 6a+ but seems like lots of people in the logbooks give it 6b. Pretty technical but I felt very much in control.
W: Walked out from the Soreiller, flew up Pain Grille (TD-), more good granite 6a mileage.
T: Rest morning followed by a 5 hour walk-in to the Promontoire refuge.
F: Up at 3:15 to get on Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), all went well bar some route finding hiccups at the start. Rock is chossy low down but improves in the middle. A good, challenging mountain day: route finding, suspect rock, mixture of pitching and moving together, long & involved descent. A big face that I'm psyched to have ticked but I won't head back to La Meije in a hurry, it didn't thrill me.
S: 3 hour walk-out. Drove back to Cham.
S: Rest
Last week's goals: 2 days climbing tick, 1 proper circuit session nope
STG (this week): Just do a bloody circuit session, for god's sake. 3 ticks including Voie Ottoz-Hurzeler (TD) and Innominata Ridge (D+) (conditions dependent). Get some plans in place to head to the Badile and the Dolomites.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD currently on 4. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD) TICK!, Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. Any news on the shoulder?
Not a bad week. Got my three sessions in, ish.
Started off with a boulder session that was supposed to be a pyramid session. Ill discipline kicked in and I ended up getting dragged into trying harder stuff. First time in ages I've actually 'bouldered'. Got lots of easy stuff done (30+ problems up to v4) did 6 or 7 v5's ( with a few flashes) tried some v6's and 7's. Good to try hard.
Second session was same again (30 odd problems up to v5) then some falling practice. Went really well and was quite pumpy as well.
3rd session was a quick auto belay where I tried a 7a pyramid. 12 routes starting at 5+ to 7a then back down. Got everything but the 7a. Totally fluffed it. My footwork, movement and judgement just isn't there atm.
So after chatting to a few people, whose opinion I respect, I've decided to concentrate on bouldering for a while. Much easier to practice technique and repeat moves and get some dynamism back in my climbing.
Next week is going to be tricky (again) but is my last week working full time. Come the 1st September I'll be able to go outside!
Nearly forgot, going to the gym tonight. Get ready for some serious doms.
Cheers Ally. Any news on the shoulder?
Not a bad week. Got my three sessions in, ish.
Started off with a boulder session that was supposed to be a pyramid session. Ill discipline kicked in and I ended up getting dragged into trying harder stuff. First time in ages I've actually 'bouldered'. Got lots of easy stuff done (30+ problems up to v4) did 6 or 7 v5's ( with a few flashes) tried some v6's and 7's. Good to try hard.
Second session was same again (30 odd problems up to v5) then some falling practice. Went really well and was quite pumpy as well.
3rd session was a quick auto belay where I tried a 7a pyramid. 12 routes starting at 5+ to 7a then back down. Got everything but the 7a. Totally fluffed it. My footwork, movement and judgement just isn't there atm.
So after chatting to a few people, whose opinion I respect, I've decided to concentrate on bouldering for a while. Much easier to practice technique and repeat moves and get some dynamism back in my climbing.
Next week is going to be tricky (again) but is my last week working full time. Come the 1st September I'll be able to go outside!
Nearly forgot, going to the gym tonight. Get ready for some serious doms.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the stats Ally. How are your various broken bits? Yeah, I guess it was a case of that, though any route that you have to second to strip is going to be a bit of a faff! I think you're right about losing the oomph, or something anyway. My rock climbing was feeling pretty good this week; plastic less so.
Wrist status: a bit sore, but a different kind of sore to what I was feeling a month ago. I think it's a positive thing - I'm using a wider range of motion than I have been for a few weeks, so things are a bit stiff - but I'm going to treat it with caution. Gentle week this week before long weekend in Guernsey!
M - 12.5km run, 4:37/km
T - 3km run, half-hearted fingerboard. Need to improve this.
W - Redpoint. Only about 7 routes. Felt steady up to 6c, but shut down on 6c+.
T - Went to Cheddar with hms. One route (Psycho Babble, 6b+) in the rain, then sacked it off and went to Redpoint. Stuck mainly to the red (6b-6c) circuit, still not feeling strong.
F - 6km run, core.
S - Cheddar, Stepped Wall. Did Cryogenics and Bluepoint (both 7a+, and very good). Actually a bit bummed not to onsight either of them, I was close on both!
S - 30 min run, 8 x (30s on/1:30 off) intervals, got a good soaking, core.
Cheddar on Saturday was great (despite warm, muggy conditions). I was happy with my commitment, and I think I'm making use of the core training I've been doing. Obviously haven't lost too much technique, and should quickly get back some familiarity with rock and movement. As long as I don't do something stupid with the wrist (this is only week 3 of 6 getting back into climbing) it's looking good for getting back into harder climbing.
General goals:
> Nick Russell; tactical error on a busy route in a tidal venue? Only one way to learn that one… Weight loss should help with climbing stamina, but you might habe lost some “oomph” from a few weeks off?
Thanks for the stats Ally. How are your various broken bits? Yeah, I guess it was a case of that, though any route that you have to second to strip is going to be a bit of a faff! I think you're right about losing the oomph, or something anyway. My rock climbing was feeling pretty good this week; plastic less so.
Wrist status: a bit sore, but a different kind of sore to what I was feeling a month ago. I think it's a positive thing - I'm using a wider range of motion than I have been for a few weeks, so things are a bit stiff - but I'm going to treat it with caution. Gentle week this week before long weekend in Guernsey!
M - 12.5km run, 4:37/km
T - 3km run, half-hearted fingerboard. Need to improve this.
W - Redpoint. Only about 7 routes. Felt steady up to 6c, but shut down on 6c+.
T - Went to Cheddar with hms. One route (Psycho Babble, 6b+) in the rain, then sacked it off and went to Redpoint. Stuck mainly to the red (6b-6c) circuit, still not feeling strong.
F - 6km run, core.
S - Cheddar, Stepped Wall. Did Cryogenics and Bluepoint (both 7a+, and very good). Actually a bit bummed not to onsight either of them, I was close on both!
S - 30 min run, 8 x (30s on/1:30 off) intervals, got a good soaking, core.
Cheddar on Saturday was great (despite warm, muggy conditions). I was happy with my commitment, and I think I'm making use of the core training I've been doing. Obviously haven't lost too much technique, and should quickly get back some familiarity with rock and movement. As long as I don't do something stupid with the wrist (this is only week 3 of 6 getting back into climbing) it's looking good for getting back into harder climbing.
General goals:
- Manage rehab for next 3 weeks. Avoid doing too much too early.
- Improve the asymmetry.
- Get enough running fitness to enter a marathon/half next year without injury concern.
- Take it easy on the wrist mid-week. One climbing session would be good but I'll happily substitute for a decent fingerboard session if the weather continues to be crap.
- Climb some interesting trad on Guernsey over the weekend!
- One long-ish (at least 10km) run
- At least one core session
Next week:
Edit to add weight, 7-day weighted, symmetric moving averages on Wednesday were 64.8,65.5,65.20 (am, pm, overall).
Technical details/data geekery: 7 days go into Wednesday's average: S,M,T,W,T,F,S with weightings given by binomial coefficients (1,6,15,20,15,6,1). Using this measure gives a good smoothed curve for historical readings and also provides a decent weighted 4-day average when extended to today.
Post edited at 13:14
In reply to Ally Smith:
Writing this in a really bad mood. During the 5 minute or so drive to Gardoms parking from my house just now the heavens opened. Conditions hadn't been good but at least possible for my goals. Oh well another time.
M- works, going well. On wasps now, 7th hardest of 10 circuits, and they were going down at a reasonable canter.
T- rest
W- rest
T- bit of a cock up with the weather. Morning had rained so I abandoned the idea of ditching work early and going out. But it cleared up and I missed what would have been a great window. This was a shame because later on I found I was in *THE FORM OF MY LIFE* at the works. Smashed the tricky wasp problem #5 on the slab in one go, and didn't struggle too much on a good number of others. This was all superb until I managed to also earn a huge flapper on my middle finger on LH. It's getting better quickly tho luckily.
F- well earnt rest
S- garage clear out (making space for a wall)
S- more garage clear out + tip + disastrous timing with the Gardoms session. Going to log this as a rest day cos if it's good tomorrow I want to get out and there's no sense aggravating finger.
Weight - 63.x regularly, was hoping for some 62.x action by now tho.
Writing this in a really bad mood. During the 5 minute or so drive to Gardoms parking from my house just now the heavens opened. Conditions hadn't been good but at least possible for my goals. Oh well another time.
M- works, going well. On wasps now, 7th hardest of 10 circuits, and they were going down at a reasonable canter.
T- rest
W- rest
T- bit of a cock up with the weather. Morning had rained so I abandoned the idea of ditching work early and going out. But it cleared up and I missed what would have been a great window. This was a shame because later on I found I was in *THE FORM OF MY LIFE* at the works. Smashed the tricky wasp problem #5 on the slab in one go, and didn't struggle too much on a good number of others. This was all superb until I managed to also earn a huge flapper on my middle finger on LH. It's getting better quickly tho luckily.
F- well earnt rest
S- garage clear out (making space for a wall)
S- more garage clear out + tip + disastrous timing with the Gardoms session. Going to log this as a rest day cos if it's good tomorrow I want to get out and there's no sense aggravating finger.
Weight - 63.x regularly, was hoping for some 62.x action by now tho.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hi Ally. Hope your shoulder is improving. Not my highest achieving week ever, not least because work went manic.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Evening session on Armistice wall. Ticked Wave no white flag - 7c in the logbooks but probably 7b+. Crimpy, sequency, on-off scary clipping.
W - cycle commute. Day from hell so evening wall session got canned - S&C x 3 instead whilst the ready meals were heating up.
T - cycle commute. Washout session at Cheddar (1 dogged route in the drizzle) then Redpoint which was far far too hot.
F - felt utterly crap. Lots of walking then keeled over & slept for ages.
S - UCR. Still feeling off colour. Did manage a 7a which had previously cloesd me down - including a jump for the final jug.
S - Fingerboard, warm-up then hard set x 2, plus S&C x 3.
Coming week the weather is looking dubious. May get back on CC if Fri or Sat are ok (argh - weather gremlins - I forgot they'd be listening!)
Hi Ally. Hope your shoulder is improving. Not my highest achieving week ever, not least because work went manic.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Evening session on Armistice wall. Ticked Wave no white flag - 7c in the logbooks but probably 7b+. Crimpy, sequency, on-off scary clipping.
W - cycle commute. Day from hell so evening wall session got canned - S&C x 3 instead whilst the ready meals were heating up.
T - cycle commute. Washout session at Cheddar (1 dogged route in the drizzle) then Redpoint which was far far too hot.
F - felt utterly crap. Lots of walking then keeled over & slept for ages.
S - UCR. Still feeling off colour. Did manage a 7a which had previously cloesd me down - including a jump for the final jug.
S - Fingerboard, warm-up then hard set x 2, plus S&C x 3.
Coming week the weather is looking dubious. May get back on CC if Fri or Sat are ok (argh - weather gremlins - I forgot they'd be listening!)
In reply to Ally Smith: I've just checked haha, 3lbs down from last week so maybe it wasn't such a bad week after all! Joking aside this week was a little better.
Mon - still in London
Tue - knackered
Wed - bouldering at MCC. Rubbish set and even worse grading but good training. They installed some new slopers on the campus board so I experimented with some double dynoing which was fun.
Thurs - rest
Fri - cycled to Hobby (Hobson Moor Quarry). Warmed up soloing some easy stuff, did a couple of laps of the traverse then set up a toprope to shunt up to see if there was a 'gap' (Hobby is very 'climbed out'. Anyway I found a line of holds in between two cracks (very eliminate). Unprotected until half height ~8m with some 6b at the very bottom and 6a at a height where you wouldn't want to fall, then a rest and the crux of an E3 to finish. Not sure on the grade but I wouldn't have wanted to try it onsight. Will return when it dries out. It's obviously a bit of a rubbish line but it would be nice to leave a mark.
Sat - rest
Sun - bought some rings so had an experimental antagonists/core sesh, fun.
Cheers, Jake
Mon - still in London
Tue - knackered
Wed - bouldering at MCC. Rubbish set and even worse grading but good training. They installed some new slopers on the campus board so I experimented with some double dynoing which was fun.
Thurs - rest
Fri - cycled to Hobby (Hobson Moor Quarry). Warmed up soloing some easy stuff, did a couple of laps of the traverse then set up a toprope to shunt up to see if there was a 'gap' (Hobby is very 'climbed out'. Anyway I found a line of holds in between two cracks (very eliminate). Unprotected until half height ~8m with some 6b at the very bottom and 6a at a height where you wouldn't want to fall, then a rest and the crux of an E3 to finish. Not sure on the grade but I wouldn't have wanted to try it onsight. Will return when it dries out. It's obviously a bit of a rubbish line but it would be nice to leave a mark.
Sat - rest
Sun - bought some rings so had an experimental antagonists/core sesh, fun.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to hms:
Nice one on wnwf helen.
Very poor week for me. Midweek my life consisted entirely of working and sleeping.
Monday - 0900-2000. Tired from bike ride Sunday so rest day
Tuesday - 0730-1800. Work went so badly I couldn't do anything more with it because scrapping the last weeks worth was looking like a distinct possibility.
Wednnesday - 0800-2130. Then sleep.
Thursday - 0800-2115. Then sleep.
Friday - deadline extended slightly. Got my Sunday back! 0830-1900. Short session at the wall. Nothing mega structured but good to be there again.
Saturday - wedding. Lovely reception and such a wonderful chilled afternoon at the reception catching up with old friends. Exactly what I needed.
Sunday - drove home. Wall. Met a lot of friends there which was nice. Got a few really good burns on the cave black, which is an 18 move monster across the steepness and then back across the lip. Fell off going for the last hold on my best go. As usual unsure of the grade but harder than Years Around the Sun for me so maybe long V7? Then tried to do an aeropow session. Found it quite hard to get the difficulty quite right and it was f*cking my skin over good style. Worked hard all told though feeling a bit battered.
Wendenstock (which isn't in the dollies) next week so will do a double week catchup on my return I imagine. Very psyched.
vimeo.com/15594486
Nice one on wnwf helen.
Very poor week for me. Midweek my life consisted entirely of working and sleeping.
Monday - 0900-2000. Tired from bike ride Sunday so rest day
Tuesday - 0730-1800. Work went so badly I couldn't do anything more with it because scrapping the last weeks worth was looking like a distinct possibility.
Wednnesday - 0800-2130. Then sleep.
Thursday - 0800-2115. Then sleep.
Friday - deadline extended slightly. Got my Sunday back! 0830-1900. Short session at the wall. Nothing mega structured but good to be there again.
Saturday - wedding. Lovely reception and such a wonderful chilled afternoon at the reception catching up with old friends. Exactly what I needed.
Sunday - drove home. Wall. Met a lot of friends there which was nice. Got a few really good burns on the cave black, which is an 18 move monster across the steepness and then back across the lip. Fell off going for the last hold on my best go. As usual unsure of the grade but harder than Years Around the Sun for me so maybe long V7? Then tried to do an aeropow session. Found it quite hard to get the difficulty quite right and it was f*cking my skin over good style. Worked hard all told though feeling a bit battered.
Wendenstock (which isn't in the dollies) next week so will do a double week catchup on my return I imagine. Very psyched.
vimeo.com/15594486
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, yep its just about keeping going as stopping too early means starting winter season too early and then peaking too early come next year! This week was more of the same, can't get any fitter now so its just about trying to maintain some sharpness
M: am - jog to work, pm - jog home
Tu: jog to work + strides
W: BMC Mile @ Eltham - weather was wet but little wind so pretty good. Got out ok but after 600m lost contact with the lead 4 and from there it was a bit of a struggle. Still, finished 6th and beat my very slow mile PB with a 4:29 and really enjoyed it so all good. 6M total
Th: am - v early 8M easy in 60:28 then went to a wedding and got waaaaay too drunk but had a great time!
F: biiiiiig hangover - rest
Sa: still not feeling good! am - did 20M on the bike to accompany the wife on her marathon training run (it was really hot but she did really well). pm - sneaked in a grass session: 3 x (90sec, 30 sec rest, 30 sec sprint) with 2mins between the sets. Felt rubbish in the heat though pleased to do last session of the season. 5M total
Su: am - tired! 6M easy in 42:18
Total 33M, really enjoyed the mile race but a lack of racing over 1500 really showed as should have been able to keep with the folks up front. Last week coming up and then a good end of season break, looking forward to it!
> Humperdink; maintaining a steady taper to the end of the season seems to be keeping the race results coming…
Cheers Ally, yep its just about keeping going as stopping too early means starting winter season too early and then peaking too early come next year! This week was more of the same, can't get any fitter now so its just about trying to maintain some sharpness
M: am - jog to work, pm - jog home
Tu: jog to work + strides
W: BMC Mile @ Eltham - weather was wet but little wind so pretty good. Got out ok but after 600m lost contact with the lead 4 and from there it was a bit of a struggle. Still, finished 6th and beat my very slow mile PB with a 4:29 and really enjoyed it so all good. 6M total
Th: am - v early 8M easy in 60:28 then went to a wedding and got waaaaay too drunk but had a great time!
F: biiiiiig hangover - rest
Sa: still not feeling good! am - did 20M on the bike to accompany the wife on her marathon training run (it was really hot but she did really well). pm - sneaked in a grass session: 3 x (90sec, 30 sec rest, 30 sec sprint) with 2mins between the sets. Felt rubbish in the heat though pleased to do last session of the season. 5M total
Su: am - tired! 6M easy in 42:18
Total 33M, really enjoyed the mile race but a lack of racing over 1500 really showed as should have been able to keep with the folks up front. Last week coming up and then a good end of season break, looking forward to it!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hah - yeah, maybe so. Unfortunately I'm struggling with a back injury at the moment so I'm going to take it easy for a week or so. It looks like I bruised it while doing one of my weighted runs - hoping it's just superficial so will see how things progress.
Mon - 4x4s at AW Sheffield. Starting to get the intensity level a bit closer to what I want.
Tue - Rest.
Wed - Barbell Complex (5 x 7 Power clean, Front Squat, Push Press, Back Squat, Push Press @30kg)
Thu - Injury
Fri - Injury
Sat - Injury
Sun - Climbing at Stoney Middleton. Just climbed Padme (HVS 5a), horrendously polished - didn't trust anything my feet were on!
> Planetmarshall; ah, I think you’ll need more than one 4x4 session a week to get in shape for Kalymnos! Did you do anything more specific this week?
Hah - yeah, maybe so. Unfortunately I'm struggling with a back injury at the moment so I'm going to take it easy for a week or so. It looks like I bruised it while doing one of my weighted runs - hoping it's just superficial so will see how things progress.
Mon - 4x4s at AW Sheffield. Starting to get the intensity level a bit closer to what I want.
Tue - Rest.
Wed - Barbell Complex (5 x 7 Power clean, Front Squat, Push Press, Back Squat, Push Press @30kg)
Thu - Injury
Fri - Injury
Sat - Injury
Sun - Climbing at Stoney Middleton. Just climbed Padme (HVS 5a), horrendously polished - didn't trust anything my feet were on!
In reply to Ally Smith:
M: Walking around Venice
T: Walking around Venice
W: Back to the UK and Gordale is wet. Went to Malham and got on SYT, not been on it for months and so fitess and weight loss would mean I'd get it quickly.....all I can say is that this route is a real sandbag, best effort was fourth bolt from the ground which still leaves the crux and three more bolts of sustained climbing. Left psyched though after watching Will RP Bat Route in the torrential rain.
T: Family stuff, more eating out.
F: Went to Boulder UK, feel ever so slightly stonger but no jump in grade.
S: Stockport wall, felt ok but unless the grades are wrong I've gone backwards. 9 tie ins before melting
S: Rest but should have trained really. Only good news is I weighed myself at 10 6 but had a take away since.
Given up on waiting for things to dry, it feels as though we're now on the wind down for winter. Totally wasted last three months with poor route choices and poor weather, only good thing is I am currently uninjured (relatively!) and psyched to get better for next summer.
> Back on it this weeks?
Yes and no, holiday all week but little climbing and plenty of eating although it looks like I might have got away with that....M: Walking around Venice
T: Walking around Venice
W: Back to the UK and Gordale is wet. Went to Malham and got on SYT, not been on it for months and so fitess and weight loss would mean I'd get it quickly.....all I can say is that this route is a real sandbag, best effort was fourth bolt from the ground which still leaves the crux and three more bolts of sustained climbing. Left psyched though after watching Will RP Bat Route in the torrential rain.
T: Family stuff, more eating out.
F: Went to Boulder UK, feel ever so slightly stonger but no jump in grade.
S: Stockport wall, felt ok but unless the grades are wrong I've gone backwards. 9 tie ins before melting
S: Rest but should have trained really. Only good news is I weighed myself at 10 6 but had a take away since.
Given up on waiting for things to dry, it feels as though we're now on the wind down for winter. Totally wasted last three months with poor route choices and poor weather, only good thing is I am currently uninjured (relatively!) and psyched to get better for next summer.
Post edited at 21:16
In reply to planetmarshall:
I've got to admit when I saw you were starting to run with 10% bodyweight I did think this would be a pretty effective way to injure yourself incredibly quickly. I had a very brief look through TFTNA and couldn't find anything advocating actual running with weight, though, as I say, it was only a brief look and I could well have missed it.
I would have thought you'd get just as much muscular endurance benefit from walking with weight with lots of ascent, without potentially trashing your knees with all the impact of weighted running.
I am, of course, purely speculating. Happy to be proved wrong! You're certainly showing much more discipline sticking to the training program than I am, I've found myself getting out lots and not having the energy to train hard in addition!
I've got to admit when I saw you were starting to run with 10% bodyweight I did think this would be a pretty effective way to injure yourself incredibly quickly. I had a very brief look through TFTNA and couldn't find anything advocating actual running with weight, though, as I say, it was only a brief look and I could well have missed it.
I would have thought you'd get just as much muscular endurance benefit from walking with weight with lots of ascent, without potentially trashing your knees with all the impact of weighted running.
I am, of course, purely speculating. Happy to be proved wrong! You're certainly showing much more discipline sticking to the training program than I am, I've found myself getting out lots and not having the energy to train hard in addition!
Post edited at 21:40
In reply to alexm198:
Well, for me 10% bodyweight is only about 7kg, which isn't much more than you'd be carrying on a mountain marathon. TFTNA suggests adding 10% bodyweight on the Zone 1 workouts for Base period weeks 9-16 ( specifically, Chapter 8 pg 249 if you have the paperback ). Strictly speaking this doesn't have to be running, but for the terrain I have running is necessary to get my heart rate up. The back injury was due to my own stupidity, and is nothing intrinsic to the exercise.
Ideally yes, but I don't have the local terrain for that. If I just go for a walk in the Peak District my heart rate would never get out of Zone 0
> I've got to admit when I saw you were starting to run with 10% bodyweight I did think this would be a pretty effective way to injure yourself incredibly quickly. I had a very brief look through TFTNA and couldn't find anything advocating actual running with weight, though, as I say, it was only a brief look and I could well have missed it.
Well, for me 10% bodyweight is only about 7kg, which isn't much more than you'd be carrying on a mountain marathon. TFTNA suggests adding 10% bodyweight on the Zone 1 workouts for Base period weeks 9-16 ( specifically, Chapter 8 pg 249 if you have the paperback ). Strictly speaking this doesn't have to be running, but for the terrain I have running is necessary to get my heart rate up. The back injury was due to my own stupidity, and is nothing intrinsic to the exercise.
> I would have thought you'd get just as much muscular endurance benefit from walking with weight with lots of ascent, without potentially trashing your knees with all the impact of weighted running.
Ideally yes, but I don't have the local terrain for that. If I just go for a walk in the Peak District my heart rate would never get out of Zone 0
In reply to Ally Smith:
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st (lost 1lb)
M - 1.5 hours indoor routes
T - 100 dish tucks
W - 100 dish tucks
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks
Month Avg - 82%
Year Avg - 70%
I know it's a bit cheeky having 100 dish tucks as an 'exercise session'. But then I do also walk 2 miles to work every weekday. Did a bit better on the diet this week, so back to 12st. Hope to keep that momentum up there and get reliably below 12st, it's not far off, I just need to keep the weekend eating under control. Also I ought to start doing some running again. Happy with how the averages are working out so far. They've 'reset' the rec wall, which wasn't much of a reset, more of a tweaking of some routes, which has made the 6a+ there harder than it was, more like 6b+ now. It's still dull, but it's a good tickover. Weather was naff at the weekend, so spent the whole weekend DIYing it up. Made some good progress with some decorating in the bedroom and steady progress with making the doors in the kitchen for the final cabinet. Just need to get that cabinet gluing up.
Why is HVS so horrible? Worth pushing up to E1 then? I was looking at an E1 on Lewes Castle the other day and despite the fact that it's steep, the holds are massive and the gear looks excellent as well. I'd probably fall off, but it'd be safe.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st (lost 1lb)
M - 1.5 hours indoor routes
T - 100 dish tucks
W - 100 dish tucks
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks
Month Avg - 82%
Year Avg - 70%
I know it's a bit cheeky having 100 dish tucks as an 'exercise session'. But then I do also walk 2 miles to work every weekday. Did a bit better on the diet this week, so back to 12st. Hope to keep that momentum up there and get reliably below 12st, it's not far off, I just need to keep the weekend eating under control. Also I ought to start doing some running again. Happy with how the averages are working out so far. They've 'reset' the rec wall, which wasn't much of a reset, more of a tweaking of some routes, which has made the 6a+ there harder than it was, more like 6b+ now. It's still dull, but it's a good tickover. Weather was naff at the weekend, so spent the whole weekend DIYing it up. Made some good progress with some decorating in the bedroom and steady progress with making the doors in the kitchen for the final cabinet. Just need to get that cabinet gluing up.
Why is HVS so horrible? Worth pushing up to E1 then? I was looking at an E1 on Lewes Castle the other day and despite the fact that it's steep, the holds are massive and the gear looks excellent as well. I'd probably fall off, but it'd be safe.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers for the stats Ally,
Good week all in, been off work so found it hard to stick to a routine but all is well on the elbow front!
M: RSA L1 route setting course @bloc in Bristol
T: Exercise ball core
W: Climb @Golden gecko, easy boulder and easy routes
T: Exercise ball core
F: DIY (easy stuff)
S:
S: 30 min bouldershed, mainly aerocap
I'm keen to do some local route setting, and with no commercial setting experience, I thought a course would be a nice way to get a bit of paper to wave at wall owners. It was great fun, I probably climbed a little too hard than I should have whilst testing everyones routes, but no harm done and it was an enjoyable day. The best bit was when we packed up, removed the barrier tape and people started climbing our routes, it was a very pleasing moment!
Tried out the new local wall, Golden Gecko in Romsey on Wednesday, it is mostly geared towards beginners with a dozen auto belays and only 7m of height, but it does have bouldering up to V7 or higher which seems of reasonable quality. I just did the 3 easiest coloured boulder circuits and a stack of 5,6a,6b routes on the autobelays. No elbow issues, in fact if anything I felt a touch of the original brachialis ache which is probably from climbing 2 out of 3 days! It's almost nice to feel it again!
I had a quick session this evening in the bouldershed and was pleasantly surprised, everything felt absolutely perfect, not an ache in sight, not even the slightest hint of an indication of a possible issue, it was very very encouraging.
I stayed on the steep for a decent length of time without getting too exhausted/pumped, much longer than I had dared hope, so things are looking up for Kalymnos again!
I did all of the moves on a V4-ish that I set without any issues, there are holds that need bearing down quite hard on that caused a little tweak before, this time around they were painless.
Heading to Bristol/Bath area for a romantic couple of days in posh hotels tomorrow, we were aiming to climb at Brean tomorrow but the weather says we will most likely be in Redpoint in Bristol instead. (probably a good thing to stop me climbing too hard)
Cheers for the stats Ally,
Good week all in, been off work so found it hard to stick to a routine but all is well on the elbow front!
M: RSA L1 route setting course @bloc in Bristol
T: Exercise ball core
W: Climb @Golden gecko, easy boulder and easy routes
T: Exercise ball core
F: DIY (easy stuff)
S:
S: 30 min bouldershed, mainly aerocap
I'm keen to do some local route setting, and with no commercial setting experience, I thought a course would be a nice way to get a bit of paper to wave at wall owners. It was great fun, I probably climbed a little too hard than I should have whilst testing everyones routes, but no harm done and it was an enjoyable day. The best bit was when we packed up, removed the barrier tape and people started climbing our routes, it was a very pleasing moment!
Tried out the new local wall, Golden Gecko in Romsey on Wednesday, it is mostly geared towards beginners with a dozen auto belays and only 7m of height, but it does have bouldering up to V7 or higher which seems of reasonable quality. I just did the 3 easiest coloured boulder circuits and a stack of 5,6a,6b routes on the autobelays. No elbow issues, in fact if anything I felt a touch of the original brachialis ache which is probably from climbing 2 out of 3 days! It's almost nice to feel it again!
I had a quick session this evening in the bouldershed and was pleasantly surprised, everything felt absolutely perfect, not an ache in sight, not even the slightest hint of an indication of a possible issue, it was very very encouraging.
I stayed on the steep for a decent length of time without getting too exhausted/pumped, much longer than I had dared hope, so things are looking up for Kalymnos again!
I did all of the moves on a V4-ish that I set without any issues, there are holds that need bearing down quite hard on that caused a little tweak before, this time around they were painless.
Heading to Bristol/Bath area for a romantic couple of days in posh hotels tomorrow, we were aiming to climb at Brean tomorrow but the weather says we will most likely be in Redpoint in Bristol instead. (probably a good thing to stop me climbing too hard)
In reply to planetmarshall:
Ah yes, a fair point regarding the terrain, I guess there's just not enough sustained uphill for a walk to cut it!
Ah yes, a fair point regarding the terrain, I guess there's just not enough sustained uphill for a walk to cut it!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Don't - I'm not one for grotty quarries, in so much as I won't learn the techniques I need to be able to climb at the cornices and the Tor eh? How are the planks going?
Mon-Thu - Working on the van and generally sorting life in readiness for the trip.
Fri - Worked and then got proper lashed.
Sat - Wedding, didnt drink but a late night.
Sun - Mates went to WCJ cornice, I took my physio and her son to Masson Lees where he did his first leads and she got the third and fourth 6a climbs. Fun day actually. My stamina has gone awol, due to all the bouldering on a rope but happy to hold on to any old crap now and trusting my feet totally.
This week looks much the same, the van is the focus and other life shizzle. Then Friday have a day at WCJ cornice, to get back on Incapacity and Saturday and Sunday is soloing up Ampitheatre Buttress, Lliwedd, Tryfan East Face etc. Cannae wait.
Don't - I'm not one for grotty quarries, in so much as I won't learn the techniques I need to be able to climb at the cornices and the Tor eh? How are the planks going?
Mon-Thu - Working on the van and generally sorting life in readiness for the trip.
Fri - Worked and then got proper lashed.
Sat - Wedding, didnt drink but a late night.
Sun - Mates went to WCJ cornice, I took my physio and her son to Masson Lees where he did his first leads and she got the third and fourth 6a climbs. Fun day actually. My stamina has gone awol, due to all the bouldering on a rope but happy to hold on to any old crap now and trusting my feet totally.
This week looks much the same, the van is the focus and other life shizzle. Then Friday have a day at WCJ cornice, to get back on Incapacity and Saturday and Sunday is soloing up Ampitheatre Buttress, Lliwedd, Tryfan East Face etc. Cannae wait.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally.
I did breath a sigh of relief when the whole family got in the van uningered at the end of the trip!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr ARC outside. (Base & endurance training.) pm - family MTB ride around three rivers in Kentmere. (Easy maintain winter endurance.)
T: am - 1hr 10min road ride. (Maintain winter endurance.) pm - 1hr ARC & core at the wall (Base & endurance training.)
W: MTBed the south red loop and then the first decent on the blue five or six times at Whinlatter before playing on the new pump track in Keswick with the family. (Easy maintain winter endurance.)
T: am - 1hr ARC outside. (Base & endurance training.)
F: am: 1hr fell run. (Maintain winter endurance.)
S: Rest
S: am - 1hr ARC & core at the wall (Base & endurance training.) pm: 2.5hr fell run. Ran a Kentmere Horseshoe variation(Maintain winter endurance.)
I made the most of the last week of my holiday to have a bigger endurance week which has gone well and will hopefully kick start a bit more winter endurance training moving forward. Due to time and place I wasn't able to do any routes this week but ARC sessions going well. Weight still a post holiday 12st so need to get that sorted.
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally.
I did breath a sigh of relief when the whole family got in the van uningered at the end of the trip!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr ARC outside. (Base & endurance training.) pm - family MTB ride around three rivers in Kentmere. (Easy maintain winter endurance.)
T: am - 1hr 10min road ride. (Maintain winter endurance.) pm - 1hr ARC & core at the wall (Base & endurance training.)
W: MTBed the south red loop and then the first decent on the blue five or six times at Whinlatter before playing on the new pump track in Keswick with the family. (Easy maintain winter endurance.)
T: am - 1hr ARC outside. (Base & endurance training.)
F: am: 1hr fell run. (Maintain winter endurance.)
S: Rest
S: am - 1hr ARC & core at the wall (Base & endurance training.) pm: 2.5hr fell run. Ran a Kentmere Horseshoe variation(Maintain winter endurance.)
I made the most of the last week of my holiday to have a bigger endurance week which has gone well and will hopefully kick start a bit more winter endurance training moving forward. Due to time and place I wasn't able to do any routes this week but ARC sessions going well. Weight still a post holiday 12st so need to get that sorted.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the inquiries as to shoulder health - the work BUPA health insurance has kicked in and i'll know later this week the full extent of the problem. Hopefully i'll also get an idea of a recovery timeline, be it invasive or physio based...
...the other hurty bits are enjoying the rest. Ring finger in particular seems to have benefited from 2 weeks rest - no grumbles on middle & back-2 hangs yesterday.
STG (next week)
- Icing, stretching, and rehab every day for hurty bits:
- finger; continue back-2 and middle-2 rehab hangs at BW
- knee & ankle; foam roller & compression band
- both shoulders
- 2x >30km bike rides; this time with hills
- Do “daily abb workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight
Last week:
M - Flossing & stretching only. Ab DOMS!
T - Tried climbing at Harmers Wood; failed to keep good control of shoulder stability, or fully extend arm for long reaches, i.e. I sucked. Static & dynamic core later, inc. 2min Donnelly exercise and ab app 5min routine.
W - 35km round trip bike commute.
T - Fingerboard warm-up as rehab; fully concentrating on scapula control and not extending elbow beyond 120 degrees. I might just be able to manage some maintenance FB’ing whilst shoulder heals, but I’m not pushing it yet. Some 45 degree press-ups and then Static & dynamic core later, including ab app 5min routine.
F - Nuthin’ but icin' and stretchin'
S - Drove all the way to the slate quarries, got rained on lots, wandered about hunting for projects. Found at least half a dozen things to bolt from reasonable to outrageous standard. 32km flat & fast (28kph avg)
S - Rehab; i.e. I did another fingerboard warm-up; then did some very gentle (bodyweight only) front, middle & back-2 hangs. Ab app.
Thanks for the inquiries as to shoulder health - the work BUPA health insurance has kicked in and i'll know later this week the full extent of the problem. Hopefully i'll also get an idea of a recovery timeline, be it invasive or physio based...
...the other hurty bits are enjoying the rest. Ring finger in particular seems to have benefited from 2 weeks rest - no grumbles on middle & back-2 hangs yesterday.
STG (next week)
- Icing, stretching, and rehab every day for hurty bits:
- finger; continue back-2 and middle-2 rehab hangs at BW
- knee & ankle; foam roller & compression band
- both shoulders
- 2x >30km bike rides; this time with hills
- Do “daily abb workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight
Last week:
M - Flossing & stretching only. Ab DOMS!
T - Tried climbing at Harmers Wood; failed to keep good control of shoulder stability, or fully extend arm for long reaches, i.e. I sucked. Static & dynamic core later, inc. 2min Donnelly exercise and ab app 5min routine.
W - 35km round trip bike commute.
T - Fingerboard warm-up as rehab; fully concentrating on scapula control and not extending elbow beyond 120 degrees. I might just be able to manage some maintenance FB’ing whilst shoulder heals, but I’m not pushing it yet. Some 45 degree press-ups and then Static & dynamic core later, including ab app 5min routine.
F - Nuthin’ but icin' and stretchin'
S - Drove all the way to the slate quarries, got rained on lots, wandered about hunting for projects. Found at least half a dozen things to bolt from reasonable to outrageous standard. 32km flat & fast (28kph avg)
S - Rehab; i.e. I did another fingerboard warm-up; then did some very gentle (bodyweight only) front, middle & back-2 hangs. Ab app.
Post edited at 10:32
1
In reply to Dandan:
How funny - I was the one who bailed from that course on the day as had to go to an emergency mortgage meeting. Do you recommend it? Will my girly screwdriver skills be mocked?
How funny - I was the one who bailed from that course on the day as had to go to an emergency mortgage meeting. Do you recommend it? Will my girly screwdriver skills be mocked?
In reply to Just Tintin:
I really enjoyed it, the chap running it clearly knew his stuff. I only did the boulder setting course and not the roped skills course, but nobody's screwdriver skills were mocked!
I really enjoyed it, the chap running it clearly knew his stuff. I only did the boulder setting course and not the roped skills course, but nobody's screwdriver skills were mocked!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally. House is being valued for mortgage today so hopefully more to report next week! It'll be nice to do well in the comps too. Should finish Climbing Unit SBL in second overall, and am definitely in for the Big Rock leading final on 5th Sept but just need to work out how to juggle that at 3pm when I'm simulaneously meant to be at Helvellyn being briefed and registered for the triathlon the following day...
In other news, skin was very thin following a double grit session the week before and some serious endurance bouldering at Derby. Need to rest it and then get back on the Rheinstor V6.
M -rest (aka to lazy to leave house after work)
T -rest (ditto)
W - Boulder Brookes. Fell in with a nice group working the hard circuit and shared some good beta
T -rest
F - Red circuit Climbing Unit in 45 minutes. Pretty knackering!
S - Boulder Rheinstor. Great little sharp pockety crag and the V6 traverse will definitely go down when I have more skin.
S - Green circuit Climbing Unit until skin gave out.
Thanks Ally. House is being valued for mortgage today so hopefully more to report next week! It'll be nice to do well in the comps too. Should finish Climbing Unit SBL in second overall, and am definitely in for the Big Rock leading final on 5th Sept but just need to work out how to juggle that at 3pm when I'm simulaneously meant to be at Helvellyn being briefed and registered for the triathlon the following day...
In other news, skin was very thin following a double grit session the week before and some serious endurance bouldering at Derby. Need to rest it and then get back on the Rheinstor V6.
M -rest (aka to lazy to leave house after work)
T -rest (ditto)
W - Boulder Brookes. Fell in with a nice group working the hard circuit and shared some good beta
T -rest
F - Red circuit Climbing Unit in 45 minutes. Pretty knackering!
S - Boulder Rheinstor. Great little sharp pockety crag and the V6 traverse will definitely go down when I have more skin.
S - Green circuit Climbing Unit until skin gave out.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly for the statting action there Ally! Apologies for AWOLism last week, was in t' Lakes without interwobbler. So, here's a double helping of waffle for y'all.
Training Diary WC 10/8/15
You dig!?
Monday – Digging. Strava Training Plan (STP) Wk 3, Run 1. Easy 45 mins ish. Hilly, off road 9.2km in 41:15 at 4:28m/km pace (GAP) with 228m height gain – gurt lush evening run out.
Tuesday – Digging. TCA session. Ticked a few greens (2nd hardest circuit) and enjoyed failing on some steep stuff on the Mothership.
Wednesday – Digging. STP Wk 3 Run 2. 8 x 84s (400m) intervals. Up on all of ‘em – boom!
Thursday – Mucho digging. Biblins Cave. Warmed up on The Bulge 7A (three tops out of four goes, I think) and then managed Bulging Top 7A – took loads longer than it should’ve as couldn’t remember by sequence from the goes when I made progress (something I’ve got less bad at recently so a tad annoying. Got to the second last hold on School of Burl 7B from a stand to finish but sore skin and sagging shoulders stopped play.
Friday – Digging in the pouring rain all morning. Drove t’ Lakes in the afternoon.
Saturday – Chillin’ and stroll out with the outlaws around Bowness – very pleasant.
Sunday – Bowderstone. An excellent session. Reached second last hold on Statstick 7A (a new altitude record) and almost, almost, almost stuck the first move slap/dyno thang on Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+. Failed gloriously on Crack Superdirect 7A to finish as well pooped. Really enjoyed cranking on the steep.
Weight = weighed myself at some point and rolled in at 72.3kg
Training Diary WC 17/8/15
Lakes Holibobs
Monday – The ‘bump’ was in its 23rd week this week so I set myself the challenge of reaching the summits of 23 mountains this week. So, here goes:
AM: Run - Kentmere Horseshoe anti-clockwise: ‘on sight’ (only done High St before, in appalling weather) early on a magical morning – perfect blue skies. 21km in 2h 50m.1085m ascent, 8:20m/km and 8 tops. Ran the lot, except for 2 rock steps on the first top and 3 paces on Ill Bell. Simply brilliant!
PM: Langdale Boulders: various easier bits and bobs. Failed on two 7A+s and opened my account on Stefan Grossman 7C insofar as I had three goes and pulled on – not bad in the blazing sunshine!
Tuesday – Run – Coniston Range (all done before but in a different order): 15.1km in 2h 23m. 868m ascent and 9:28m/km. Walked the ups, hit all the cheeky trods. Cool and windy. 6 tops. Back down to the chariot in time for second breakfast before…
Family cragging day at Long Scar on Pike O’Blisco. Set up some top ropes for the posse, led Coll (Mod) I think (It’s a bit unclear) and onsighted some superb 5b/5c crimpy boulder walls in the rain. Finished by nipping to the summit for my 7th top of the day.
Wednesday – AM International Familio Crazy Golf Champnio-ship (we had an Italian playing). Somehow, I won.
PM: Bowderstone – a truncated session as traffic was awful. Got 55 mins in so set about Power Pinch 7A+. Got through the Power Pinch and gaston but couldn’t do the last couple of moves – will be back as it’s ace.
Thursday – AM: Run: Fairfield Horseshoe plus three extra tops in abysmal weather (25m visibility). 21.9km in 3h 49m. 8:41m/km and 1406m of ascent. Walked/ ran the ups and ran the flats and downs. Absolutely smashed the nav, even the tricky ‘off piste’ bits to cut corners and that. Had only visited Fairfield before and that from a different direction so well stoked with my performance. The legs just wanted more; to run and run – a fab feeling. The best run I’ve had in years. 8 tops so 23 for the week – boom!
PM: Lower Scout Crag in Langdale: more family climbing. Just set up top ropes and encouraged/heckled as necessary in the afternoon sunshine – perfect.
Friday – Bowderstone: got a long session in but tired after a full week. Stuck the Statstick sloper several times but couldn’t move on. Got the gaston on Power Pinch a two or three times but out of power. Short of other opportunities as the rain fell harder and the puddles deepened. Found by the good lady wife tucked up against the crag, having a kip! Drove home.
Saturday – Digging out fence post holes.
Sunday – Supershed floor painting and rest.
Weight = weighed myself on Sunday 70.3kg – 2kg down on last week.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly for the statting action there Ally! Apologies for AWOLism last week, was in t' Lakes without interwobbler. So, here's a double helping of waffle for y'all.
Training Diary WC 10/8/15
You dig!?
Monday – Digging. Strava Training Plan (STP) Wk 3, Run 1. Easy 45 mins ish. Hilly, off road 9.2km in 41:15 at 4:28m/km pace (GAP) with 228m height gain – gurt lush evening run out.
Tuesday – Digging. TCA session. Ticked a few greens (2nd hardest circuit) and enjoyed failing on some steep stuff on the Mothership.
Wednesday – Digging. STP Wk 3 Run 2. 8 x 84s (400m) intervals. Up on all of ‘em – boom!
Thursday – Mucho digging. Biblins Cave. Warmed up on The Bulge 7A (three tops out of four goes, I think) and then managed Bulging Top 7A – took loads longer than it should’ve as couldn’t remember by sequence from the goes when I made progress (something I’ve got less bad at recently so a tad annoying. Got to the second last hold on School of Burl 7B from a stand to finish but sore skin and sagging shoulders stopped play.
Friday – Digging in the pouring rain all morning. Drove t’ Lakes in the afternoon.
Saturday – Chillin’ and stroll out with the outlaws around Bowness – very pleasant.
Sunday – Bowderstone. An excellent session. Reached second last hold on Statstick 7A (a new altitude record) and almost, almost, almost stuck the first move slap/dyno thang on Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+. Failed gloriously on Crack Superdirect 7A to finish as well pooped. Really enjoyed cranking on the steep.
Weight = weighed myself at some point and rolled in at 72.3kg
Training Diary WC 17/8/15
Lakes Holibobs
Monday – The ‘bump’ was in its 23rd week this week so I set myself the challenge of reaching the summits of 23 mountains this week. So, here goes:
AM: Run - Kentmere Horseshoe anti-clockwise: ‘on sight’ (only done High St before, in appalling weather) early on a magical morning – perfect blue skies. 21km in 2h 50m.1085m ascent, 8:20m/km and 8 tops. Ran the lot, except for 2 rock steps on the first top and 3 paces on Ill Bell. Simply brilliant!
PM: Langdale Boulders: various easier bits and bobs. Failed on two 7A+s and opened my account on Stefan Grossman 7C insofar as I had three goes and pulled on – not bad in the blazing sunshine!
Tuesday – Run – Coniston Range (all done before but in a different order): 15.1km in 2h 23m. 868m ascent and 9:28m/km. Walked the ups, hit all the cheeky trods. Cool and windy. 6 tops. Back down to the chariot in time for second breakfast before…
Family cragging day at Long Scar on Pike O’Blisco. Set up some top ropes for the posse, led Coll (Mod) I think (It’s a bit unclear) and onsighted some superb 5b/5c crimpy boulder walls in the rain. Finished by nipping to the summit for my 7th top of the day.
Wednesday – AM International Familio Crazy Golf Champnio-ship (we had an Italian playing). Somehow, I won.
PM: Bowderstone – a truncated session as traffic was awful. Got 55 mins in so set about Power Pinch 7A+. Got through the Power Pinch and gaston but couldn’t do the last couple of moves – will be back as it’s ace.
Thursday – AM: Run: Fairfield Horseshoe plus three extra tops in abysmal weather (25m visibility). 21.9km in 3h 49m. 8:41m/km and 1406m of ascent. Walked/ ran the ups and ran the flats and downs. Absolutely smashed the nav, even the tricky ‘off piste’ bits to cut corners and that. Had only visited Fairfield before and that from a different direction so well stoked with my performance. The legs just wanted more; to run and run – a fab feeling. The best run I’ve had in years. 8 tops so 23 for the week – boom!
PM: Lower Scout Crag in Langdale: more family climbing. Just set up top ropes and encouraged/heckled as necessary in the afternoon sunshine – perfect.
Friday – Bowderstone: got a long session in but tired after a full week. Stuck the Statstick sloper several times but couldn’t move on. Got the gaston on Power Pinch a two or three times but out of power. Short of other opportunities as the rain fell harder and the puddles deepened. Found by the good lady wife tucked up against the crag, having a kip! Drove home.
Saturday – Digging out fence post holes.
Sunday – Supershed floor painting and rest.
Weight = weighed myself on Sunday 70.3kg – 2kg down on last week.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally for doing Fitclub, good that you keep motivated for moving while being so restricted due to injuries. The comp went bad actually. I flashed the warmup route (6bish) but on the comp route I fell at the second move due to the hold turning (it was a shoulder lockoff with a high foot). I could have gone up another time, but new I didn´t had a chance on a 7b+ and they were running late in their schedule, so chose to not try again.
STG (this week): climb outdoors -> tick, although just once
Join the DWS competiton -> tick, it was fun
New STG: work on weak sides, for this week vertical wall, small hand and food holds and balancy moves.
Weight: 67.0
M: hike with gf + overnight tentstay in the mountains (her first ever, my first in summer) approximately 6 hours
T: hike back, different route, about 5 hours
W: outdoor tradclimbing, did the easy 2 pitch route again, and a 4+, 5- and 5.
T: first aid volunteer on a festival
F: belay kids at the world cup and a 2 hour bouldering session, first time managing one of the problems from the category hard and in one session
S: DWS comp, walk and watching the finals
S: 2 hour walk to the beach for going swimming, bailed to due the bay being filled up with jellyfish
Thanks Ally for doing Fitclub, good that you keep motivated for moving while being so restricted due to injuries. The comp went bad actually. I flashed the warmup route (6bish) but on the comp route I fell at the second move due to the hold turning (it was a shoulder lockoff with a high foot). I could have gone up another time, but new I didn´t had a chance on a 7b+ and they were running late in their schedule, so chose to not try again.
STG (this week): climb outdoors -> tick, although just once
Join the DWS competiton -> tick, it was fun
New STG: work on weak sides, for this week vertical wall, small hand and food holds and balancy moves.
Weight: 67.0
M: hike with gf + overnight tentstay in the mountains (her first ever, my first in summer) approximately 6 hours
T: hike back, different route, about 5 hours
W: outdoor tradclimbing, did the easy 2 pitch route again, and a 4+, 5- and 5.
T: first aid volunteer on a festival
F: belay kids at the world cup and a 2 hour bouldering session, first time managing one of the problems from the category hard and in one session
S: DWS comp, walk and watching the finals
S: 2 hour walk to the beach for going swimming, bailed to due the bay being filled up with jellyfish
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