UKC

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone can offer some advice.

I have been to the alps a couple of times but will be taking the other half and this hut looks perfect for a night with views, however she is a hiker and never done any glacier walking or rescue before.

1) how safe is the glacier? I was on mer Du glace last year and it was really easy to spot routs as it had not snowed for a while and any cravases were clear, is this the same? would you advice roping up?

2) Is there a way to get to the hut that does not include the 70m Ladders as I doubt ill get her on it

3)any one have a route guide or know where i can find one? as I don't intend to be paying for a guide as it will take the fun out of it.

Any other suggestions of good huts that are around a 3/4 day hike that will have amazing views?

Thanks for your help

Garth

In reply to garth56820:

2 main options that i know of for Refuge d'Argentiere - from the mid station hiking up past the glacier seracs, then onto the glacier / moraine & up the ladders (which i think is where you mean by the ladders), traverse across the cliffs and then an easy climb back onto the glacier to cross to the hut. OR head up top bin of Grand Montets, walk down the glacier (about 25degrees?) trying to bypass some crevasses as best as possible, scrambling down the cliffs, and then the same easy climb onto the glacier to traverse across to the hut.
Once you are off the cliffs the glacier is pretty compact but more choppy then mer de glace, and a bit of crevasse avoidance navigation but nothing i'd usually rope up for. If you take the route down from top of GM you'd definitely want to rope up and there are some pretty big crevasses opening up there, plus i imagine still some hidden ones! I wouldn't take a beginner down that way. Taking the route up from mid station is pretty tiring and has some areas that are a little exposed with loose rock, bouldery terrain, etc.

I wouldn't say either of these are simple and would definitely think twice about taking someone with little experience / confidence. Other options are Albert Premier (simplest option and even though it's a short hike there's plenty of options to go on after the hut for a beginner), Couvercle (though if she wouldn't like the ladders at Arg then this may not be a good idea!), tete rousse, refuge plan glacier, etc.
http://www.chamonet.com/huts/
this link is useful for details!

In reply to garth56820:
Well if you think she can walk on flattish glacier terrain, (with some hard glacial ice), and can deal with some moranic rubbish at the glacier edge, the view from the new Monte Rosa hut is stunning, a great arc of huge imposing peaks, while the hut has continuous picture windows to let the view into the hut, not screen it away as quite a lot of older huts do. The new hut is also fantastically well done inside, if a bit space-age from the outside, the guardians are MUCH more sympathetic than is the norm in Switzerland.

I would say it is probably less committing than the Argentierre, the glacier section is shorter, has no substantial descent and is always dry for the relevant bit. There certainly were some novices doing it this Summer, some without crampons, though that does not seem sensible.

In reply to garth56820:

Hi Guys thank you for your advice, that is really helpfull.

I think it will be to much for her for now so will not go for this option.

I will take a look at the huts you have suggested, I want it to be an adventure but enjoyable for her but not dangerous given her lack of mountaineering.
Regards

Garth

In reply to Simon4:

A good few years ago I went via the route from the top station,late afternoon on my own to link up with a friend at the hut. Not a good idea, several times my leg went down into the snow to my thigh. Gave me several heart stopping moments. Albert 1 is an alternative, perhaps as part of the wellknown three cols circuit.

In reply to garth56820:

had a hike to where you start to descend back down to the glacier after the ladders & the traverse about 2 weeks ago.

There is no way up the glacier other than taking the ladder option then descending back down onto the glacier to overcome the ice fall.
The descent from the GM top bin is not recommended due to crevasses & the amount of faff required to overcome them to gain the normal route.
To gain the access to the ladders through the moraine wasn't too bad to be honest, but obviously have a good look at it from the safety of the glacier before committing yourself to it.

The access route onto the glacier wasn't too bad either with a route up the glacier to the ladders fairly obvious without too many detours required.

In reply to altirando:

I should add, in case the OP does not know, the Monta Rosa hut is above Zermatt, not in the Mont Blanc massif at all.

But both the hut and view are fantastic, and it is a much more suitable "interesting enough but not too interesting" hut for novices to spend the night.