UKC

I've been using 5.10 Anansazi velcros for years and they've done a good job and fit well. I have a tight pair for harder routes (E3 to E5) and another pair half a size larger for easier routes. After years of service and a couple of resoles, the tight pair is now pretty soft and I was struggling to do slate trad 6a moves on tiny edges in them - no doubt because I'm not very good but the shoes won't have helped. Once in a blue moon I go sport climbing and again it feels like a stiffer pair of shoes wouldn't go amiss.

Any suggestions? I guess I'm looking at trad 6a-b and sport in the 7s in terms of type and size of footholds, if that makes sense. So no point getting a radical bouldering shoe as I wouldn't be able to do the moves anyway

Thanks (clearly whatever I have is better than people had back in the 80s but I'm happy to cheat by getting better gear, been doing it for years with winter climbing!)

In reply to Misha:

If you can still find a pair, the Anasazi Blancos. Awesome on slate! If not, I guess the new Pinks might be ok.

In reply to Misha:
Hi Misha,

The Scarpa Instinct VS are an excellent stiff shoe which hold their shape well (unlike Five Tens!) apparently the new Vapour Lace is going to be very stiff too. Katana laces, Evolv Shamans and Vapour Velcros would all be worth a look as well.

HTH, George.

In reply to Misha:

I've got some Miura VSs for harder trad, also had some Katana Laces and they were stiffer and less downturned. However if and when I get a new pair I'll opt for the womens version with XS grip instead of edge, not as good imo.

In reply to Misha:

I have a pair of Anasazi pink lace-ups and they're magnificent on slate. They're the best all-round shoes I've ever worn but they're really well suited to tiny edges. Expensive but oh so worth it

In reply to Misha:

Lace-up Miura. Nice and stiff and edgey, not as down turned and soft/smeary as the modern trend but still reasonably aggressive.

I didn't find the Miura VS (velcro version but on a completely different last and construction) works as well on the slate as its softer and puts everything through the big toe but they do work very well for the limestone part of the brief (especially when its steep).

In reply to Misha:

Katana is often considered to be rather good.

But to be honest, if 510 fits ya, Quantum might be the ticket.

Oddly enough, quite a few of my mates clockin' on high 7s and low 8s seem to also enjoy Futuras (on granite though).

So perhaps stiff/soft is not really the question, but rather snug enough.

In reply to Misha:

Anasazi whites, if you can still find them. Mine have been perfect for getting me up thin moves on the slate and for Malham crimpiness in the 7s. Reasonably comfy as well so you can wear them for long trad efforts, although they get a bit painful on my achilles after a while.

The new Anasazi Verdons are supposed to be their substitute for the the whites, being slightly stiffer than the new pinks, but I haven't tried them. I stocked up on a few pairs of whites when I heard they were being discontinued so not needed to find new shoes yet.

In reply to Misha:

+1 for Miura VS's on Welsh slate

In reply to Misha:

Another vote for Miuras, LS is where it's at now. 5.10 have sucked since Adidas bought them and they aren't coming back if their new shoes are anything to go by.

In reply to Misha:

+1 for the Instinct VS. Nice and sensitive when needed, slightly downturned so can really hook over the holds when high stepping, and they stiffen up nicely when you load the toe. Not so stiff that you can't smear a bit when you've got no feet. Even better on Limestone than Slate. The heel and/or toe hooking abilities are awesome.