UKC

I've got the Briancon climbs guidebook which seems to be most recommended on here for climbs in and around Ailefroide. However, the information on approaches seems terrible (zoomed out maps and generally no wordy descriptions). I have a tendency to get lost even with a good guidebook so I'm looking for a bit of advice on approaches!

I don't have a feel for the area so I have no idea if the approaches are simple enough that you don't really need detailed guidance. Is that the case? Can you recommend any good maps in particular for the area, and is it easy enough to buy them locally?

And whilst I'm here, I may as well ask for some route recommendations! I'm looking for long adventurous routes up to 6a (easier if not fully bolted). I'll be staying in Puy St. Vincent but will have a car so happy to go anywhere within an hour's drive.

In reply to s1362083:

My friends and I had this guidebook and got lost a couple of times searching for some crags, even though we're French, so depending on the crag it can be tricky. We didn't do any multi-pitch but we went to Tournoux which is close to Puy Saint-Vincent, and... well, we had to enquire about the directions as those contained in the guidebook were fare from crystal clear. Good thing we did or we would've ended up... well I don't even know. We also got lost on the way to Rocher Baron. Both times we had to drive up a mean dirt track (passable with a 2WD but drive extremely slowly). If you intend to go to Tournoux I suggest looking at the signs with maps you'll find in the way up.

Like I said I can't recommend any long routes, but in Tournoux "Persepolis" (in Secteur 2A - Tequila) was a lovely 6a. There's also a great walk the starts from the same carpark and leads to a gorgeous limestone plateau reminiscent of the Burren in Ireland.

In terms of maps the local equivalent to OS maps is IGN, I think this is the one you'll want: https://lacompagniedescartes.fr/vente/europe/europe-ouest/alpes-randonnee/a... You'll find it in any outdoors shop or library.

In reply to Adrien:

The IGN maps can also be accessed on line via http://tab.geoportail.fr/ (select 'carte topographique')

In reply to s1362083:

Hi there

I live 20 mins for puy st vincent and happy to help with any questions you have, for navigation the guidebook is probably fine for 90% of crag finding, there are the odd bits that are not great in the guidebook, it is very easy to pick up maps of all sorts of scale best place is probably the book/paper shop in l'argentiere or kings outdoor shop in valouise?

you can pick up the IGN blue maps this area is split over a few or you can get a larger scale haute alpes map, that covers a bigger area and may be good enough to help you find the crags?

for long route you have Ailefroide which is all bolted granite mainly slabs, it is very good climbing but can be busy in summer,

other options are paroi des lys and le Ponteil both limestone fully bolted the climbing,
there can seam quite thugy but is good, maybe start on something low in your grade to see if you like it?

Chemin du roy is a very nice easier section bolted great to get a feel for the multi pitch limestone all about the grade 5, route 2 is a sandbag, but the rest are good.

if you fancy some thing more adventurous then you may need to pick up the big wall guidebook, oisans nouveau oisans sauvage livre est

this open you up the massif des cerces a series of limestone towers with routes up to 450 meters, some are fully bolted some part bolted some all trad, (in the guidebook the routes get stars 1 star is fully bolted, 4 full trade etc) the crags have longer walk in up to 2 hours and feel more committing, I love it here feels like the Dolomites but never see many people there, (check my facebook a few posts back there is some pics
https://www.facebook.com/dreamtrails )

you also have stuff in the valley Chambran at your grade, or Contreforts de coste counier in la bans valley?

hope that makes sense, there is so much climbing here, if you have an questions or would like some other ideas then please drop me a email

rob@dream-trails.com

cheers Rob

In reply to ecrinscollective:

Cool, thanks all!