In reply to Elsier:
I learned the hard way to carry my panic quickdraw (one of these clip stick / quickdraw hybrids with one karabiner that can be held open by a spring and snaps shut when you clip it into a bolt) the right way round.
I had mine clipped to a gear loop on the back of my harness, springy krab down.
Of course I managed to back clip my rope just below the last bolt when committing to the exit overhang of a Frankenjura route. Cue massive rope drag, and triple rope length paid out for every meter I climbed.
By the time I realized the problem I was unable to reverse. Fortunately I was high enough to avoid decking even with the extra rope, so I decided to pull through, as a short fall could have been awkward. Quite close to being pulled off by rope drag and pump, though, and visibly shaking upon topout...
Lesson learned, from now on the springy krab goes into the gear loop, and a closed screwgate on the bottom end!
CB