UKC

As a low to middle grade punter, I was led up Talisman by a far more capable partner last Saturday.Having negotiated the awkward corner on pitch 2, we both thought the continuation ridge looked quite pleasant. The smooth 2m wide slab above the belay however, caused us both considerable difficulty.Ben led it by dropping over the right wall and rejoining the ridge via some steep moves which he thought possibly 5a. I could see myself coming off and hanging in space so I stepped left into a scruffy gully/ groove to avoid the slab. I would be interested to hear how others have done this as I found the slab direct almost impossible and it was pretty dry. I bet the route has caught out a lot of Classic Rock tickers who didn't have grades in hand !

In reply to Mike Conlon:

Can't remember anything of difficulty above the awkward corner and it was drizzling/raining at that point. Cannot remember the exact line we took, probably the line that looked most climbed but stayed fairly close to the edge.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

There have been a number of complaints over the years about this top pitch (saying the route should be VS), and a number of folk who've managed it fine. It's a while since I did it, and I did find the pitch below technically harder. So not much help really.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Venue for Saturday?

In reply to Mike Conlon:

When I climbed it I took the awkward corner. My mate climbed the edge of the slab and was making an awful lot of noise about how desperate it was. He claims it was never 4b. I said you're probably right as my Cairngorm guide gives it 4a. I of course never let on I found it fairly necky. HS is about right in my opinion.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

I thought that last pitch was fairly bold, and quite tricky, so even if it is only 4b, I think the route is worth VS. The second pitch is no harder and has overhead gear. Mind you, Hard Severe is hard !

In reply to Mike Conlon:
Did the route last summer as a three some. Great conditions, dry rock. I did the pitch you mentioned and went straight up the rib instead of going out right as the guide description seemed to indicate. Got ticked off for not going on the "proper" line. A bit thin but soon over, however on damp rock it would be interesting. Not the most memorable section of the route, the pitches below far nicer. The corner below this section in anything less than dry conditions I think would be good value. But then so are many classic routes in Scotland if compared with the softer grades in Snowdonia.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

I thought it was a bold, balancy move up the narrow slab but a fair bit easier than the crux corner. HS -, 4c, 4a probly...

In reply to rogerwebb:

Roger, The forecast seems unsure. I went to Creag Dubh yesterday teatime to check out some things and it was very dry. Didn't seemed to have rained there for several days. But the midges were grim (no wind). So don't know. We can all go to different places if we want.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

I nearly got myself into big trouble soloing this a few years back. Went too high up the right of the slab and couldn't seem to find a way left again... Ended up downclimbing and doing dagger instead (much easier route finding)! Still haven't been back to finish it off.

Has anyone done the direct start?

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Yes the midges are certainly grim at the moment. They chewed James Hotchkiss so much we failed on Razor Flake.

In reply to Smelly Fox:

The direct is a great pitch. It's also the first pitch of Talking Drums which sadly has got a bit overgrown again higher up - we had to bail onto Talisman.

In reply to Smelly Fox:

I've done it , with the late James Turner ( coincidentally also known as "the Fox" by some ) but it was so deep into the last century that my recollection isn't of any use...remember lay backing a corner but nothing else. Nice to give JT a mention 20 years beyond though...not forgotten.