UKC

Anyone recommend a good Multi Pitch Route in Arco. Grade 5+ max 6a. Good bolting, good rock and about 4-8 Pitches long. We only have one day there. Thanks.

In reply to Aigen:
I haven't climbed much in Arco, but I climbed Amazzonia (5c), which I found fun. Might be a bit too long for you, depends how quick you are.

If you do go, the walk off is quite tricky. From the fence go up, following the trail - I think it trends right. Eventually you get to a scree gully, follow that to the trail at the bottom (without continuing off the edge!) and go left - it leads to a short bit of via ferrata and back down to the road. Unfortunately I don't remember the descent well enough to give precise directions.

In reply to JuneBob:

Thanks very much. Any of those routes on that wall would be good. Do you think we could campervan it at the bottom for free somewhere. Arriving late and start climbing early.

In reply to Aigen:
Long time since I climbed there, but did a good 4 pitch route on this crag and wished I'd done more

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2327

Maybe this crag Placche Zebrate is better - certainly looks stunning when driving past

In reply to Aigen:
The approach goes through a sort of work yard across the dam. You may be able to squeeze your campervan on the side somewhere.
Or, you could park near where you end up after the descent in the parking by what looks like a sports center and football pitch. But I don't know the parking restrictions there...

In reply to Aigen:

Thanks everyone for the help.

In reply to Aigen:

If you like slabs then do stuff on the big one on the lake-ward side of the road tunnel south of Torbole. There's a couple of 5+/6a lines around 4-5 pitches long. Go early though to avoid climbing them in the sun.
Corno di Bo

In reply to JuneBob:


Amazonia is a classic, but I highly doubt the 5c grade, closer to 4c than 5c.

Moonbears (~5c/6a) is also nice. In fact, I think it was nicer.


I did't find the descent tricky at all. But then again, it didn't leave an impression on my memory. Which also points in the direction that it was nothing special, ie. easy.

I also seem to recall, that with a bit of walkin' you could climb some 4-5 more pitches after toppin' Moonbears/Amazonia.

In reply to HeMa:

Tricky in terms of finding the way as there were trails going in all directions. Probably didn't help that it was dark.

In reply to JuneBob:

aH, the darkness might have made things interesting. We descended both times when it was light, so just followed the guidebook description and/or map and the biggest trail.

1st time there we climbed Amazonia and a few days later Moonbears (6a) linkin' it with Le Strange Voglie di Amelie (5c)

That was a nice day, albeit way too hot (~30 or so).