UKC

Gear for Grade II-V Lakes/Scottish winter routes?

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 Mike Hewitt 28 Aug 2015
Title says it all. I currently have a walking axe and walking crampons, a full trad rack and one ice screw. I tied to do a grade II climb on Helvellyn a few years ago and had to down-climb when I was stopped by an easy ice step half-way up, not so fun!

On my wishlist this winter are grade II and III gullies and ridges in the Lakes and on Ben Nevis.

Cheers.
OP Mike Hewitt 28 Aug 2015
In reply to Mike Hewitt:

How about the a pair of DMM Flys?
 LakesWinter 29 Aug 2015
In reply to Mike Hewitt:

Flys are perfect for working through the grades to start with. For mixed routes and ridges your rack is probably ok. I'd take some rocentric type big nuts rather than cams most of the time as they can be hammered into icy cracks, whereas cams can't be. Also I'd make sure almost all of my draws are slingdraws as gear is often spaced and needs extending so it doesn't lift out on a long pitch. 60m ropes are better than 50m ones for reaching belays. Have fun.
OP Mike Hewitt 29 Aug 2015
In reply to Mike Hewitt:

Thanks LW.

Also, can anyone recommend a pair of boots that would cover the above climbing and also summer alpine routes from say AD to D. I can't decide on B2 or B3, then I suppose it's a matter of what fits me and my budget!
 Mark Haward 29 Aug 2015
In reply to Mike Hewitt:

As you say, what fits your foot shape is a major factor. I would recommend a heavier weight B2 or a lightweight B3. I used the Sportiva Trango Extreme Evos for several years and found them excellent. Review here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1782
I run warm so for me they were fine for 4,000 metre peaks and brilliant for rock / mixed / snow / ice. Some people find them narrow. They are, imo, borderline B2 / B3 - more towards B2.
More recently I have used Sportiva Nepal evo. A little stiffer, a little warmer, a more technical boot that fits me beautifully. Imo a lightweight B3. Info here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=4157.
I suggest trying on lots of different boots and see how they fit.
 LakesWinter 30 Aug 2015
In reply to Mike Hewitt:

Yeah like the other poster said, make sure they fit really nicely. I'd get B3 over B2 as then when you want to climb above grade IV you'll really appreciate the extra support a B3 boot gives you.
 Pina 30 Aug 2015
In reply to Mike Hewitt:

Get B3s. You could get B2s and convince yourself that they'll be a good hybrid boot for both summer alpine and Scottish winter but you may end up spending a day getting you calfs completely pumped and toes going numbs at belays on some route this winter and regret your decision (I certainly know I did...). Lightweight B3 is ideal as suggested above.

Rackwise, as above, trad rack is good. Add some winter specific gear and voila. Google Andy Kirkpatrick's blog and you'll find an excellent article giving you everything you need to know from someone who knows what they're talking about.

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