UKC

I was wondering if someone could help me explain why a static rope is used when rigging up for a top/bottom rope?

I understand why a dynamic rope is used for climbing on but having trouble explaining the static for rigging. Is it because the bounce might disrupt the gear?

Thanks.

In reply to BoulderGoat:

Mainly it's because the stretch can lead to the rope moving across the rock, especially when the anchors are a long way back. That can lead to a lot of wear and tear on the rope, and more importantly over time (especially on the soft stuff like southern sandstone) wear and tear on the rock.

In reply to BoulderGoat:
Because you don't need a shock absorbing rope. The opposite reason to lead climbing. The climber won't travel far with practically zero stretch, once held tight they barely move, which is good for novices confidence. It is also good for the anchors and prevent ropes rubbing on edges. But, your gear should really be good enough, that you don't have to worry about that in the first place. With good rigging and the karabiner hanging over the edge at the top to prevent drag & wear problems.

In reply to deepsoup:

Quite. A dynamic used for a top rope rigging could be sawn through in no time if it's rubbing any rocks. I know this to my own stupidity and expense! No accidents or anything but a newish 9mm ruined in 30 mins

In reply to BoulderGoat:
None of this is really relevant. Even a static rope will show some movement over an edge. Therefore it is better to have no rub points no matter what rope type you use if the rope is being used for self-belaying with a jammer type device. If you are top roping then it does not matter what type of rope it is as no one section of rope will stay in contact with the edge for long and will not be damaged. It is only a priority on sandstone where you should extend your belay over the edge to avoid damage to the rock

In reply to BoulderGoat:

Static ropes can still wear grooves in the rock so i would recommend using rope protectors or a piece of carpet under any rub points.

In reply to Stone Idle: I guess you have not seen a dynamic rope used as rigging and running over rock ? I beat Wilkie's 30 minutes to trash, more like 15mins and that was two lowers on a probably 7 - 8 m route ! Mind you we now have two 25m cragging ropes instead of one 55m.

In reply to Mike Conlon:

Use one all the time. What are you doing that keeps the same section of rope on the cliff edge?

In reply to Stone Idle:


If you extend the rigging rope over the edge as you should, then the same short section will remain in contact with the edge throughout the session.

In reply to BoulderGoat:

Apologies. I see we have been talking at cross purposes and you are correct.

In reply to Stone Idle: Apology not necessary but graciously accepted sir. I was staggered how quickly my pal's brand new dynamic rope was trashed, using it as a doubled rigging rope over a fairly rounded edge to secure a short bottom rope. Any way you take care and enjoy.

In reply to BoulderGoat:

I think the bottom line is that static rope is cheap and tough, so if you do a lot of top/bottom roping then why use your good dynamic rope? The static rope doesn't have the stretch problem meaning it's "safer" for top roping. That is if a big guy falls on your dynamic rope he might hurt himself a bit.

In reality I have set up plenty of bottom ropes using a 50m dynamic rope and some slings to extend the crabs over the edge and it works fine. They have mainly been for our kids rather than adults but even for an adult with the stretch it's safer than leading the route.

In reply to BoulderGoat:

It's also just really annoying that whenever you sit on the top rope you drop 50cm or more as the rigging stretches.

You can use the static rope for the top/bottom rope as well as the rigging - you only need dynamic for leading. I have a ridiculous plan to one day set up a bottom rope on the 40m routes at Lower Sharpnose using my 100m abseil rope - it would actually be potentially dangerous to do this with dynamic as with 80m of rope out you would hit the floor on stretch for the first 8m or so...