In reply to Removed UserGRUMPY MONKEY:
El Potrero Chico is bulletproof compared to say the Dolomites or Yamnuska in Canada. Most routes are very tightly bolted. French 5c is ~5.9 YDS (the grades seem pretty friendly there so 5.10a/b should also be doable). I think there is about a week’s worth of stuff to climb at that grade (probably a bit more if you’re interested in single pitch routes also). We’ve done about 4 trips to EPC & one road trip through central MX. For 5c grades, I’d fly into Monterrey and spend some time in EPC. Then drive down south towards Mexico City (logistics are easier driving out of Monterrey airport vs. Mexico City). Two other destinations that I’d highly recommend are Pena de Bernal in the state of Queretaro (a few 8ish pitch lines to the summit of a large monolith; easiest is Bernalina at 5.8 YDS) and Parque Nacional El Chico in the state of Hidalgo (multi-pitch lines on some towers composed of conglomerate rock). Climbing is good at both places (first-hand experience at those is admittedly limited to 2 routes each) but the setting of the post-card perfect Mexico (not in EPC…area is more blue collar than charming) really makes for a memorable package. Contact me if you want more details.
Post edited at 18:43
