UKC

First climbing holiday

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 JPHayes 02 Sep 2015
Hi

I'm looking to organise my first climbing holiday and just wanted some general guidance in terms of best locations to meet people. I'm thinking Spain but open to suggestions. Don't mind when I go away too much but would probably be a long weekend or maybe a week.

Any help would be appreciated and sorry it's such an open ended question haha!

Cheers!
1
 Kemics 02 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

Just to check, are you thinking sport climbing?
OP JPHayes 02 Sep 2015
I'd prefer trad to be honest.
 Kemics 02 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

afaik it's probably a bit harder to meet trad climbers on the go. I cant think of any locations (In europe) where you would be guaranteed to meet people. Sport climbing attracts much more of a dirt bag scene around the campsites I would suggest trying to find someone to go with before hand. Or on a short trip you risk wasting a few days trying to find people to climb with. If you're as limited as a long weekend you want to climb pretty much everyday.

If you have crazy disposable income Id suggest norway....but the weather is a gamble.

Morocco has AMAZING trad climbing in the anti-atlas. It's very cheap, very realible weather and very good climbing (go in spring and you can have some nice winter sun). The only down side is it's a little remote. However you can still do road-side cragging but with a sense of remoteness/adventure....but depends a little on your climbing experience. But would be a fine choice
 alan moore 02 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

Wales is probably best. Or England or Scotland.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 02 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

As already suggested (and as you have only been climbing a year) the UK would be your best bet; the Lakes, Wales and Scotland for longer stuff - always weather dependant. Or for shorter stuff, Pembroke or the South West are really great (include Lundy and Jersey for something a little different). Many years of great routes to go at.


Chris
 Aigen 03 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

For Trad in Central Europe you will be hard pressed to find what you are looking for. However if you go to somewhere like El Chorro at Xmas time you will easily hook up with people.
 Skyfall 03 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

Stay in the UK for trad - N Wales probably best bet for variety of rock and some micro climates to dodge the weather.
 DWS gibraltar 03 Sep 2015
In reply to Kemics:
Morocco isn't that cheep when you factor in flights ,car hire ,hotels, food, insurance and some experience of other places first would make sense .That said I had a Moroccan massage in Marrakesh at the end of my last trip." total value" and I'm back out in October!

Post edited at 17:25
 Motown 03 Sep 2015
In reply to JPHayes:

Agree with others that if you're after trad and willing to drive a bit, then better staying in the UK. With a year's experience and no partner, I would be scoping for partners now - it's very frustrating to have the time, but no one to climb with. My first week of trad climbing was in North Wales and meant multi pitch in the pass, pushing grades in the slate quarries, hiking up to Cloggy to be rained on, and a trip out to Holyhead. If it does rain there are some fun things to get at. Check out the Hyll Drem Girdle - The Hyll Drem Girdle (HVS 5a). But none of this is great without a partner... Probably get a partner and be willing to follow the good weather. That first trip will be brilliant.

Sport climbing in Chorro is a good bet, but get on the partners forum here and elsewhere before you go to make sure you can climb as much as possible. Again, pretty frustrating to be near the action without someone to climb with. In Chorro, the Olive Branch is pretty good for meeting other British climbers.
 Kemics 04 Sep 2015
In reply to DWS gibraltar:

I dunno. Flights were about £200 but the car hire, insurance, food, accommodation was so cheap the whole trip in total only cost me £400 and I stayed for 2 weeks. I think 2 weeks in the UK probably wouldn't cost far off that once you include campsite fees and a few trips to the pub...if you flew London to Marrakesh can get some super cheap flights too
 DWS gibraltar 04 Sep 2015
In reply to Kemics:
That is cheap! I'm budgeting for around 500 quid for seven days including flights , which I still think is great value. I could go cheaper on accommodation though.
Post edited at 19:01
 Ramblin dave 05 Sep 2015
In reply to Kemics:

We stayed at the Kasbah Tizourgane (ie basically in a castle) with the room, breakfast and dinner costing us each E25 per night. Lunch and mint tea were a bit extra, and then flights and car hire were the other significant expense. Seemed like good value, would buy again.

To the OP: it seems like it'd be easier to meet people to climb with and then arrange to go away with them than vice-versa, particularly if you're looking at a shortish trip and haven't got masses of experience...
OP JPHayes 07 Sep 2015

Thanks all for the input. I've been to Holyhead and tramadog which were awesome- definitely want to go back to North Wales in the future. May look into organising a trip to El Chorro- just want to get out of the country for a while tbh!
Post edited at 09:37

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