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Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=623617
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: Ted crushing down the Cornice - got inspired last weekend watching old school gnarler, keith Sharples trying his project which finishes up the last few minutes of the route featured in this video: vimeo.com/137392149
Fitclubber of the week award – alexm198 – most pitches climbed this week by a fitclubber! (Though AJM might give you a run for your money?)
Hms; Great to hear of your BHAG. Personally I think f8a is a medium to long term goal for you. BHAG goal would be something more outlandish – f8b and 8a oS maybe…
Richard Popp; welcome along. Portland is great for winter goals – one of the sunniest spots in the UK at that time of year.
Flopsicle; welcome back and great to see that you’re being pro-active about balancing act of work, life and climbing. Is there a kids club at the wall you could enrol the munchkin in and get a climbing in for yourself at the same time?
Exile; did you return to the Scout Scar 7b and sort out the remaining 2 moves?
Dandan82; still managing the elbows sensibly? I’m just starting to get itchy feet and think about doing some harder climbing and need to reign in that enthusiasm for another couple of weeks – maybe you should be thinking the same rather than getting too psyched for Kaly?
Mutl3y; zipps?
Biscuit; looks like you made the most of that single bouldering session. How’s freshers week going
AJM; has sketchin’ about on vertical grass approaches scared any thoughts of work out of you?
Ally Smith; yay – slab bimbling initiation. Now stop eating cake and get your rehab planned out in time for Chulilla at the end of November.
mrchewy; a great mountain route link-up day; alpine-esque. WCJ progress this week?
Nick Russell; bummer with the finger – maybe an old injury that has healed up with excess scar tissue? Massage?
alexm198; Isn’t La Snoopy 6b+? Even then I thought it a toughy for the grade. Swiss Direct is a great tick. More of the same this week?
Mattrm; stag do sounds super tame! Any progress on the sport pyramid this week?
0.5viking; World Cup psyche showing in a solid performance bouldering/self-belay; have you carried it over into this week?
Joyce; try and keep your aero-cap sessions at a constant level rather than tapering off. Try again 1on/1off on a 6b+ circuit; the first set will feel easy, the 15th not so…
Just Tintin; comp conundrum solved – but not in a particularly good way. I told my old landlord I was moving overseas and keep the deposit as last months rent. Then left no forwarding address and left town – an option for you…?
Humperdink; Maccy D season close-out celebration – sitting on your behind this week?
Tyler; wash out your mouth – Yorkshire is the best! Keep up the skinny – it’s good for your elbows
Absentees; Joughton, Planetmarshall
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: Ted crushing down the Cornice - got inspired last weekend watching old school gnarler, keith Sharples trying his project which finishes up the last few minutes of the route featured in this video: vimeo.com/137392149
Fitclubber of the week award – alexm198 – most pitches climbed this week by a fitclubber! (Though AJM might give you a run for your money?)
Hms; Great to hear of your BHAG. Personally I think f8a is a medium to long term goal for you. BHAG goal would be something more outlandish – f8b and 8a oS maybe…
Richard Popp; welcome along. Portland is great for winter goals – one of the sunniest spots in the UK at that time of year.
Flopsicle; welcome back and great to see that you’re being pro-active about balancing act of work, life and climbing. Is there a kids club at the wall you could enrol the munchkin in and get a climbing in for yourself at the same time?
Exile; did you return to the Scout Scar 7b and sort out the remaining 2 moves?
Dandan82; still managing the elbows sensibly? I’m just starting to get itchy feet and think about doing some harder climbing and need to reign in that enthusiasm for another couple of weeks – maybe you should be thinking the same rather than getting too psyched for Kaly?
Mutl3y; zipps?
Biscuit; looks like you made the most of that single bouldering session. How’s freshers week going
AJM; has sketchin’ about on vertical grass approaches scared any thoughts of work out of you?
Ally Smith; yay – slab bimbling initiation. Now stop eating cake and get your rehab planned out in time for Chulilla at the end of November.
mrchewy; a great mountain route link-up day; alpine-esque. WCJ progress this week?
Nick Russell; bummer with the finger – maybe an old injury that has healed up with excess scar tissue? Massage?
alexm198; Isn’t La Snoopy 6b+? Even then I thought it a toughy for the grade. Swiss Direct is a great tick. More of the same this week?
Mattrm; stag do sounds super tame! Any progress on the sport pyramid this week?
0.5viking; World Cup psyche showing in a solid performance bouldering/self-belay; have you carried it over into this week?
Joyce; try and keep your aero-cap sessions at a constant level rather than tapering off. Try again 1on/1off on a 6b+ circuit; the first set will feel easy, the 15th not so…
Just Tintin; comp conundrum solved – but not in a particularly good way. I told my old landlord I was moving overseas and keep the deposit as last months rent. Then left no forwarding address and left town – an option for you…?
Humperdink; Maccy D season close-out celebration – sitting on your behind this week?
Tyler; wash out your mouth – Yorkshire is the best! Keep up the skinny – it’s good for your elbows
Absentees; Joughton, Planetmarshall
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, good to hear that you are on the mend with no further setbacks.
I have been a model of restraint this week, sticking to the plan and doing nothing but stamina/endurance sessions all week. I got a couple of roped sessions in with a new partner, he really very good (used to redpoint 8b) so while I jealously watched him cruise up 7b's, I still managed to resolutely stick to lapping 6a's!
M: Bouldershed session; boulder link-ups on 40 deg board in the V1-V4 range
T: Routes; 4x3 @ 6b, 6c, 6c/6b. Couldn't manage a fourth set as skin was completely raw
W: Strength and conditioning, first time in ages!
T: Routes; 15 min aerocap on steep 6a/+ x3
F:
S: Bouldershed session; link-ups again. Go-karting in the afternoon
S: Most likely bouldershed, aero laps 2x 30min if possible
Really good week, it's just nice to be able to put some effort in again!
All sessions felt good, the tennis elbow is still a thing of the past, the old classic brachialis ache is hanging around a little but i'm managing it well, I felt it a little before a couple of sessions but managed to get rid of it by warming up carefully, I can't really ask for more than that, and it definitely faded as the week went on, this conditioning thing really works...
I'm going to do a couple of sessions Monday and Tuesday next week then rest up until Kaly. I won't be climbing until the Sunday so thats 4 solid days of rest before I go. Who knows how I will perform on real rock, my stamina in the training sessions has surprised me, but it's certainly not the level it was before the last trip. If I am going to get any big ticks, it's going to have to be tactical, I feel.
I'm not going to risk further injury though, so if the ability isn't there, I will use the time to concentrate on other aspects of my climbing, really beat myself up over technique flaws, route reading, fall practice, there will be plenty to do.
STG: stay uninjured for 6 more days! (and then don't injure myself in Kaly)
> Dandan82; still managing the elbows sensibly? I’m just starting to get itchy feet and think about doing some harder climbing and need to reign in that enthusiasm for another couple of weeks – maybe you should be thinking the same rather than getting too psyched for Kaly?
Cheers Ally, good to hear that you are on the mend with no further setbacks.
I have been a model of restraint this week, sticking to the plan and doing nothing but stamina/endurance sessions all week. I got a couple of roped sessions in with a new partner, he really very good (used to redpoint 8b) so while I jealously watched him cruise up 7b's, I still managed to resolutely stick to lapping 6a's!
M: Bouldershed session; boulder link-ups on 40 deg board in the V1-V4 range
T: Routes; 4x3 @ 6b, 6c, 6c/6b. Couldn't manage a fourth set as skin was completely raw
W: Strength and conditioning, first time in ages!
T: Routes; 15 min aerocap on steep 6a/+ x3
F:
S: Bouldershed session; link-ups again. Go-karting in the afternoon
S: Most likely bouldershed, aero laps 2x 30min if possible
Really good week, it's just nice to be able to put some effort in again!
All sessions felt good, the tennis elbow is still a thing of the past, the old classic brachialis ache is hanging around a little but i'm managing it well, I felt it a little before a couple of sessions but managed to get rid of it by warming up carefully, I can't really ask for more than that, and it definitely faded as the week went on, this conditioning thing really works...
I'm going to do a couple of sessions Monday and Tuesday next week then rest up until Kaly. I won't be climbing until the Sunday so thats 4 solid days of rest before I go. Who knows how I will perform on real rock, my stamina in the training sessions has surprised me, but it's certainly not the level it was before the last trip. If I am going to get any big ticks, it's going to have to be tactical, I feel.
I'm not going to risk further injury though, so if the ability isn't there, I will use the time to concentrate on other aspects of my climbing, really beat myself up over technique flaws, route reading, fall practice, there will be plenty to do.
STG: stay uninjured for 6 more days! (and then don't injure myself in Kaly)
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hey Ally, thanks for asking....
Zippy's went down yesterday morning. I still can't believe it. Two years since I decided to stop being fat and to train and get strong etc, and four separate days of attempts on it, I finally ticked a font 7B. My nearly-2 year old even gave me a "well done daddy". It was mint.
youtube.com/watch?v=cEYV9GvIrCo&
Nothing further to report
Hey Ally, thanks for asking....
Zippy's went down yesterday morning. I still can't believe it. Two years since I decided to stop being fat and to train and get strong etc, and four separate days of attempts on it, I finally ticked a font 7B. My nearly-2 year old even gave me a "well done daddy". It was mint.
youtube.com/watch?v=cEYV9GvIrCo&
Nothing further to report
4
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. I hope the shoulder is behaving.
2 sessions this week, which isn't bad as i've had the kids all week.
1 routes: it was going to be an auto belay session but i grabbed a quick belayer towards the end. 5+ x3, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ ( soft ) on auto. Then a 6b+ lead that i nearly scuppered due to lack of concentration. I didn't look at it ( it's only a 6b+???) so missed the holds around the arete. I was chatting away to my belayer and generally not repsecting it enough. After two very awkward hand swaps ( due to not using the holds around the arete ) my foot slipped off a HUGE foothold as i wasn't concentrating on weighting it. Managed to hold on to the two crimps i was on, whilst un-expectedly footless, had a word with myself and finished it off. It's generally reckoned to be 6c so to take the positives i couldn't have climbed it worse, but still managed to pull it out of the bag. Lessons learned. I then top roped a 7a+ which went well until the VERY hard moves at the top. Then top roped a 7a, which was going well until i got wrong handed at a cross through. Had to let go there but got back on and did the rest in a oner.
Need to get my lead head back. Not fear of falling wise but more on the tactical side.
2nd session: boulders. Warmed up up to v4 ( 30+ problems ) flashed a new V6 which looked my anti style but felt easy - therefore it probably is. Made progress on a couple of others.
I was feeling a bit tired after that so decided to do some foot on campussing. Very poor compared to previous attempts many months ago.
Going to the gym tonight and will actually lift some heavy things instead of being initmidated by large men with beards and tatoos.
I need to have a good think this week about what to prioritise in training. The other week i thought i was week, now i think i'm un-fit. Maybe i'm both!
Actually going climbing outside on Tuesday. Just to main wall at Horseshoe, but i don't care. It's outside, for a whole day! This hasn't happened in over 18mths. Can't flipping wait.
Cheers Ally. I hope the shoulder is behaving.
2 sessions this week, which isn't bad as i've had the kids all week.
1 routes: it was going to be an auto belay session but i grabbed a quick belayer towards the end. 5+ x3, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ ( soft ) on auto. Then a 6b+ lead that i nearly scuppered due to lack of concentration. I didn't look at it ( it's only a 6b+???) so missed the holds around the arete. I was chatting away to my belayer and generally not repsecting it enough. After two very awkward hand swaps ( due to not using the holds around the arete ) my foot slipped off a HUGE foothold as i wasn't concentrating on weighting it. Managed to hold on to the two crimps i was on, whilst un-expectedly footless, had a word with myself and finished it off. It's generally reckoned to be 6c so to take the positives i couldn't have climbed it worse, but still managed to pull it out of the bag. Lessons learned. I then top roped a 7a+ which went well until the VERY hard moves at the top. Then top roped a 7a, which was going well until i got wrong handed at a cross through. Had to let go there but got back on and did the rest in a oner.
Need to get my lead head back. Not fear of falling wise but more on the tactical side.
2nd session: boulders. Warmed up up to v4 ( 30+ problems ) flashed a new V6 which looked my anti style but felt easy - therefore it probably is. Made progress on a couple of others.
I was feeling a bit tired after that so decided to do some foot on campussing. Very poor compared to previous attempts many months ago.
Going to the gym tonight and will actually lift some heavy things instead of being initmidated by large men with beards and tatoos.
I need to have a good think this week about what to prioritise in training. The other week i thought i was week, now i think i'm un-fit. Maybe i'm both!
Actually going climbing outside on Tuesday. Just to main wall at Horseshoe, but i don't care. It's outside, for a whole day! This hasn't happened in over 18mths. Can't flipping wait.
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Maybe, though I don't recall ever injuring that finger (right, middle). It just feels similar to a right ring finger problem I had last year. One thing that comes to mind though is an incident about 3 weeks ago where I pulled really hard on a locked door, with (I think) just that finger, prompting sharp pain for about a minute. (Yeah, really great way to injure a finger.) It soon subsided and I didn't think any more of it. Maybe related? I don't know.
Both injuries actually feeling pretty good this week, especially the wrist so let's hope I'm coming to the end of this particular phase and can get training again. Not looking forward to the months of building back up to where I was, but I suppose it's better than the alternative.
M - Intense thunderstorms on Guernsey. No climbing, travel back to Bristol.
T - Rest (arrived back early hours, pretty knackered).
W - 7km run, core.
T - 7km run (fast laps on hills).
F - core.
S - 6mi run with fast, timed mile 3 (flat, along Portway). According to watch 5:42 mile (3:27 km). I've never timed myself on a mile before and although I think I could do better, it was brutal.
S - rest. (Swimming and sauna in Clifton Lido probably don't compensate for large lunch after!)
Weight (I've explained the details before): 65.37kg
Just under 2 weeks to go 'til France. Let's try to do some climbing and not do anything too stupid with the hurty bits.
> Nick Russell; bummer with the finger – maybe an old injury that has healed up with excess scar tissue? Massage?
Maybe, though I don't recall ever injuring that finger (right, middle). It just feels similar to a right ring finger problem I had last year. One thing that comes to mind though is an incident about 3 weeks ago where I pulled really hard on a locked door, with (I think) just that finger, prompting sharp pain for about a minute. (Yeah, really great way to injure a finger.) It soon subsided and I didn't think any more of it. Maybe related? I don't know.
Both injuries actually feeling pretty good this week, especially the wrist so let's hope I'm coming to the end of this particular phase and can get training again. Not looking forward to the months of building back up to where I was, but I suppose it's better than the alternative.
M - Intense thunderstorms on Guernsey. No climbing, travel back to Bristol.
T - Rest (arrived back early hours, pretty knackered).
W - 7km run, core.
T - 7km run (fast laps on hills).
F - core.
S - 6mi run with fast, timed mile 3 (flat, along Portway). According to watch 5:42 mile (3:27 km). I've never timed myself on a mile before and although I think I could do better, it was brutal.
S - rest. (Swimming and sauna in Clifton Lido probably don't compensate for large lunch after!)
Weight (I've explained the details before): 65.37kg
Just under 2 weeks to go 'til France. Let's try to do some climbing and not do anything too stupid with the hurty bits.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the stats Ally. Took quite an effort of will to bring myself to put the BHAG that I did, so don't think I can put anything else out there. How come everyone else has more confidence in my abilities than I do?
This week was always going to be a bit of a bust as there were 4 days of necessary family related stuff. Hopefully managed to squeeze on enough other activities to keep senescence at bay.
M - Grotty weather. Long TCA session. Managed to tick off another few greens, tried or retried a whole load more. Also a few circuits to end although the circuit choice at the moment isn't great. The 6c+ is horrid with a huge crossover move I can't do.
T - Cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. Lots & lots of routes. Did a black core route which I'd previous failed on with ease. Retried the roof 7a+ and got further although I'm now stuck on how to get the next clip in. Finally succeeded on a 6c I'd failed on several times before. Good session.
W - Cycle commute, cycle on to UCR. 2 circuits to warm up, then 6ax3 short rest 6bx3 short rest 6cx2. Long rest then had a play on a 7b. Long rest then 6cx2 6b short rest 6c 6b 6a. Cycled home slowly!
T - visiting parents, nothing except some moderate walking & gardening.
F - returning from parents. S&C x 3 in evening
S - Uni visit with D2. Fingerboard in evening - 1xeasy set to warm up, 2xhard set.
S - visiting Husband's parent. Large pub lunch. S&C x 3 in evening, but must admit that the final set of planks got curtailed due to over-full stomach!
Thanks for the stats Ally. Took quite an effort of will to bring myself to put the BHAG that I did, so don't think I can put anything else out there. How come everyone else has more confidence in my abilities than I do?
This week was always going to be a bit of a bust as there were 4 days of necessary family related stuff. Hopefully managed to squeeze on enough other activities to keep senescence at bay.
M - Grotty weather. Long TCA session. Managed to tick off another few greens, tried or retried a whole load more. Also a few circuits to end although the circuit choice at the moment isn't great. The 6c+ is horrid with a huge crossover move I can't do.
T - Cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. Lots & lots of routes. Did a black core route which I'd previous failed on with ease. Retried the roof 7a+ and got further although I'm now stuck on how to get the next clip in. Finally succeeded on a 6c I'd failed on several times before. Good session.
W - Cycle commute, cycle on to UCR. 2 circuits to warm up, then 6ax3 short rest 6bx3 short rest 6cx2. Long rest then had a play on a 7b. Long rest then 6cx2 6b short rest 6c 6b 6a. Cycled home slowly!
T - visiting parents, nothing except some moderate walking & gardening.
F - returning from parents. S&C x 3 in evening
S - Uni visit with D2. Fingerboard in evening - 1xeasy set to warm up, 2xhard set.
S - visiting Husband's parent. Large pub lunch. S&C x 3 in evening, but must admit that the final set of planks got curtailed due to over-full stomach!
Post edited at 18:19
In reply to Ally Smith:
It was nice really, I think I'm beyond going out and getting totally wasted, not fun anymore. I've been totally knackered this week for no good reason. Which has been annoying really. I don't think I'm ill but I literally have no energy at all. Feel totally fscked. It's horrible.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st
M - F - Knackered, ill or something.
S - DIY and Gardening
S - Trad at Gravesend.
Month Avg - 16%
Year Avg - 69%
Todays climbing was good, but I still have no energy. Sketched up a HS. Climbed the first two meters of a VS and just had no energy. I probably could have climbed it really, but I just didn't fancy pushing it when feeling so totally stuffed. I guess I must be ill. NFI if I'll get some climbing done next week. My back still hurts from the karting as well. Ick. Next week has got to be better!
It was nice really, I think I'm beyond going out and getting totally wasted, not fun anymore. I've been totally knackered this week for no good reason. Which has been annoying really. I don't think I'm ill but I literally have no energy at all. Feel totally fscked. It's horrible.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st
M - F - Knackered, ill or something.
S - DIY and Gardening
S - Trad at Gravesend.
Month Avg - 16%
Year Avg - 69%
Todays climbing was good, but I still have no energy. Sketched up a HS. Climbed the first two meters of a VS and just had no energy. I probably could have climbed it really, but I just didn't fancy pushing it when feeling so totally stuffed. I guess I must be ill. NFI if I'll get some climbing done next week. My back still hurts from the karting as well. Ick. Next week has got to be better!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. Yeah I'm just hoping that everything has kept chugging away in my absence because if so there shouldn't be much left to do when I get back.
Switzerland then......
Sat
Arrived, tired from early morning start, did a few easy pitches at a local crag, then drove up to wendenalp to scope things out.
Sunday
The mighty wendenstock. Did sonnenkonig (given 6c, 6a obl), or at least the first 8 pitches. Probably 3 left to where most people finish. Idiots partying at the bivvy spot meant a slow start. The approach is long, about 700m uphill, with gradually worsening paths - the last half hour it would be in some places inadvisable to trip and duncan compared the terrain to culm coast approaches which is quite apt.
To be honest it was quite an outing. Full on head games for me and some very tough grades too. Quite an insecure footy climbing style on quite blind rock - reminiscent in some ways of the sort of thing you'd find on something like Krapps or other Avon main wall frighteners.
Grabbed a draw on the 6c pitch towards the end because my calves were shot. Semi bolted but a bigger undertaking than a lot of E3s. Sketchy hard rockover a roof above nothing but a tatty old thread and then the belay into pumpy relatively well protected 6c into a rest and a stiff pull over a roof and some more technicality to finish. Also fell off a pitch higher up after climbing up a blind alley - difficult rock to read. And rather embarrassingly had a head melt and had to turn over the lead for a pitch in the middle to let the head juices recover.
Monday
Wendenstock round 2. This time spasspartout (6a, 5a obl, but more on that later). Friendlier terrain comparatively on the approach although still a big walk. Some very good rock indeed on the water runnel pitches high up on this route, really superb. Savagely under graded though - 6b+ of anyone's money, I failed on the crux first time. Overall feel of an E3 at a guess (sonnenkonig we felt was maybe comparable with an E4 for the overall experience). The 5a obl is a complete joke too. Really good water runnel climbing higher up, almost like tufa with all the pinches!
Tuesday, Thursday - rest. Caught up with Robbie who I hadn't seen for years which was nice.
Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday - local cragging. Lehn and neuhaus, which are good steep sandstone crags on the edge of interlaken. Ticked a hard 7b (7b+?) And had a few decent "close but no cigar" onsight attempts on stuff ~7a.
Overall, a good trip. I think i got flashed by a speed trap on the way home though so final verdict may be up for grabs
Wendenstock is just awesome. Verdon quality rock but with more intimidation. So much psyche to get back there more up to the challenge this time. Definitely wasn't prepared for it - intimidating, sketchy, all that sort of stuff. Next time I go back I want to have been on sighting sport and trad well in the runup rather than the mix of overwork, bouldering and dws I actually did.
Anyone up for it? Ally?
Pleased that the biking let me get up the hill itself without too much drama although I did have stiff quads by Tuesday.
3 weeks til seeing coach and until the big bike ride so lots to do the next few weeks.
Cheers Ally. Yeah I'm just hoping that everything has kept chugging away in my absence because if so there shouldn't be much left to do when I get back.
Switzerland then......
Sat
Arrived, tired from early morning start, did a few easy pitches at a local crag, then drove up to wendenalp to scope things out.
Sunday
The mighty wendenstock. Did sonnenkonig (given 6c, 6a obl), or at least the first 8 pitches. Probably 3 left to where most people finish. Idiots partying at the bivvy spot meant a slow start. The approach is long, about 700m uphill, with gradually worsening paths - the last half hour it would be in some places inadvisable to trip and duncan compared the terrain to culm coast approaches which is quite apt.
To be honest it was quite an outing. Full on head games for me and some very tough grades too. Quite an insecure footy climbing style on quite blind rock - reminiscent in some ways of the sort of thing you'd find on something like Krapps or other Avon main wall frighteners.
Grabbed a draw on the 6c pitch towards the end because my calves were shot. Semi bolted but a bigger undertaking than a lot of E3s. Sketchy hard rockover a roof above nothing but a tatty old thread and then the belay into pumpy relatively well protected 6c into a rest and a stiff pull over a roof and some more technicality to finish. Also fell off a pitch higher up after climbing up a blind alley - difficult rock to read. And rather embarrassingly had a head melt and had to turn over the lead for a pitch in the middle to let the head juices recover.
Monday
Wendenstock round 2. This time spasspartout (6a, 5a obl, but more on that later). Friendlier terrain comparatively on the approach although still a big walk. Some very good rock indeed on the water runnel pitches high up on this route, really superb. Savagely under graded though - 6b+ of anyone's money, I failed on the crux first time. Overall feel of an E3 at a guess (sonnenkonig we felt was maybe comparable with an E4 for the overall experience). The 5a obl is a complete joke too. Really good water runnel climbing higher up, almost like tufa with all the pinches!
Tuesday, Thursday - rest. Caught up with Robbie who I hadn't seen for years which was nice.
Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday - local cragging. Lehn and neuhaus, which are good steep sandstone crags on the edge of interlaken. Ticked a hard 7b (7b+?) And had a few decent "close but no cigar" onsight attempts on stuff ~7a.
Overall, a good trip. I think i got flashed by a speed trap on the way home though so final verdict may be up for grabs
Wendenstock is just awesome. Verdon quality rock but with more intimidation. So much psyche to get back there more up to the challenge this time. Definitely wasn't prepared for it - intimidating, sketchy, all that sort of stuff. Next time I go back I want to have been on sighting sport and trad well in the runup rather than the mix of overwork, bouldering and dws I actually did.
Anyone up for it? Ally?
Pleased that the biking let me get up the hill itself without too much drama although I did have stiff quads by Tuesday.
3 weeks til seeing coach and until the big bike ride so lots to do the next few weeks.
2
In reply to mattrm:
Hi mattrm, always wondered but what does your pyramid and percentages mean? Also, a bit more random, but what is your bmi at 12stone? Just a bit curious.
Hi mattrm, always wondered but what does your pyramid and percentages mean? Also, a bit more random, but what is your bmi at 12stone? Just a bit curious.
In reply to Mutl3y:
The percentages are from the activity diary on UKC, it's the relevant 'days with exercise' figure.
The pyramid, is a routes pyramid, eg you do 10 6as, 6 6bs and 2 6cs. Building up a solid base to aid future performance. I always get sucked into trying routes that are hard for me when I'm sport climbing tho. I ought to spend a day just onsighting 6as, it'd be better for me.
My BMI is 23, I'm about 5ft 11", so that's about 23. I'd like to get to about 11st as that'll take most of the flab off my stomach, least that's the hope.
The percentages are from the activity diary on UKC, it's the relevant 'days with exercise' figure.
The pyramid, is a routes pyramid, eg you do 10 6as, 6 6bs and 2 6cs. Building up a solid base to aid future performance. I always get sucked into trying routes that are hard for me when I'm sport climbing tho. I ought to spend a day just onsighting 6as, it'd be better for me.
My BMI is 23, I'm about 5ft 11", so that's about 23. I'd like to get to about 11st as that'll take most of the flab off my stomach, least that's the hope.
Post edited at 19:40
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers dude - all laudable goals! I'm wondering about pyramiding now - or something like it. The focus is on the few tough ones I want, but my ticklists have loads of "easy" ones too. I would make a fun change to just go round on sighting stuff. But it's certainly a trade off.
Hmmm could imagine a big day out with a starred ticklist and an agenda of getting as many done as poss.....
A stone under a bmi of 23 sounds like a damn good fighting weight! Good luck dude.
Cheers dude - all laudable goals! I'm wondering about pyramiding now - or something like it. The focus is on the few tough ones I want, but my ticklists have loads of "easy" ones too. I would make a fun change to just go round on sighting stuff. But it's certainly a trade off.
Hmmm could imagine a big day out with a starred ticklist and an agenda of getting as many done as poss.....
A stone under a bmi of 23 sounds like a damn good fighting weight! Good luck dude.
In reply to Mutl3y:
I did actually do a 'big weekend out' ticking classics in North Wales, it was really good fun. Got to do it again, there's still so many to do.
I did actually do a 'big weekend out' ticking classics in North Wales, it was really good fun. Got to do it again, there's still so many to do.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly for the stats and advice Ally, I'll get on that - all other handy hints gratefully accepted too, kids.
Training Diary WC 31/8/15
Back to School
Monday – AM: hour or so stroll up a big hill with friends.
PM: Few hours of digging/sleepering. Beastmaker: 5B workout. Managed 104/126 again while doing the ol’ Frenchie thang. Fingers not failing but arms/shoulders sagging mostly on reps 5 (90’ hang) and 6 (full lock – well nearest I can get) from about set 10/18 onwards. Will substitute some 4 finger crimps (OK) for 35’ slopers next time to boost the sloper action.
Tuesday – Run: STP Wk 5 Run 1 – Easy Run: 8.5km in 40.04. 163m ascent and 4:39m/km.
Wednesday – Biblins bouldering/having a short kip. Definitely not ‘on it like a car bonnet’ and made no progress on Peckitt’s Traverse (7C). Will return when fresher. Good news though - did find out that the cave and the landings are entirely rainproof!
Thursday – TCA with Tom. Tried some of the new reds (hardest circuit) and got 2 (one was the easiest one). Did pick up and odd right middle finger tweak which didn’t like sharply incut crimps. Felt OK on anything else so got on the circuits. Got ¾ of the way around a 7a circuit first go and then to the second last move (crux), second go. Climbed as close to 1 on, 1 on as possible for more than 30 mins – definitely staying on for longer – psyched to keep it this up for a bit!
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Gentle shed bashing (literally, as I cracked two window panes while fitting them – doh!) followed by STP Wk 5 Run 2 – Longer Intervals: 10 x 2min intervals at 5K pace with 1 min recovery jogs. Bang on overall. Felt like my best effort yet – well stoked.
Sunday – The mighty ‘Sham. Back on The Slug – God, I’ve missed this place. Stomped the usual warm ups (up to 7A) then repeaty-flashed Korky (7A), Ames Wol (7A+/7B) second go, fell out of the last move of High Blow (hard 7B+) twice and once the move prior and also got to my usual high point (that pesky pocket) on The Loop (8a) twice. Warmed down by doing Ames Wol to the fifth last move (it’s twenty odd moves long) again. A fantastic couple of hours. Temps were perfect, sequences all remembered and I felt more solid on all of it than ever before. The bit of endurance type stuff that I’ve been doing seems to be paying off, as has the harder bouldering as I didn’t fall in the usual spots on Ames Wol. Big smiles after today.
STGs: keep up the aero-cap training (will follow your advice Ally) and only climb on Tuesday and Sunday next week as it’s 5K ‘Race Day’ on Saturday and we’ll see if the Strava Training Plan has made a difference…
Weight = 70.6kg
Looks like a good week so far for peeps with injuries healing up, Nick smashing out a quick mile, Mutley sending Zippy's and everyone else getting loads of good climbing in. Loving your work people - more of the same please!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly for the stats and advice Ally, I'll get on that - all other handy hints gratefully accepted too, kids.
Training Diary WC 31/8/15
Back to School
Monday – AM: hour or so stroll up a big hill with friends.
PM: Few hours of digging/sleepering. Beastmaker: 5B workout. Managed 104/126 again while doing the ol’ Frenchie thang. Fingers not failing but arms/shoulders sagging mostly on reps 5 (90’ hang) and 6 (full lock – well nearest I can get) from about set 10/18 onwards. Will substitute some 4 finger crimps (OK) for 35’ slopers next time to boost the sloper action.
Tuesday – Run: STP Wk 5 Run 1 – Easy Run: 8.5km in 40.04. 163m ascent and 4:39m/km.
Wednesday – Biblins bouldering/having a short kip. Definitely not ‘on it like a car bonnet’ and made no progress on Peckitt’s Traverse (7C). Will return when fresher. Good news though - did find out that the cave and the landings are entirely rainproof!
Thursday – TCA with Tom. Tried some of the new reds (hardest circuit) and got 2 (one was the easiest one). Did pick up and odd right middle finger tweak which didn’t like sharply incut crimps. Felt OK on anything else so got on the circuits. Got ¾ of the way around a 7a circuit first go and then to the second last move (crux), second go. Climbed as close to 1 on, 1 on as possible for more than 30 mins – definitely staying on for longer – psyched to keep it this up for a bit!
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Gentle shed bashing (literally, as I cracked two window panes while fitting them – doh!) followed by STP Wk 5 Run 2 – Longer Intervals: 10 x 2min intervals at 5K pace with 1 min recovery jogs. Bang on overall. Felt like my best effort yet – well stoked.
Sunday – The mighty ‘Sham. Back on The Slug – God, I’ve missed this place. Stomped the usual warm ups (up to 7A) then repeaty-flashed Korky (7A), Ames Wol (7A+/7B) second go, fell out of the last move of High Blow (hard 7B+) twice and once the move prior and also got to my usual high point (that pesky pocket) on The Loop (8a) twice. Warmed down by doing Ames Wol to the fifth last move (it’s twenty odd moves long) again. A fantastic couple of hours. Temps were perfect, sequences all remembered and I felt more solid on all of it than ever before. The bit of endurance type stuff that I’ve been doing seems to be paying off, as has the harder bouldering as I didn’t fall in the usual spots on Ames Wol. Big smiles after today.
STGs: keep up the aero-cap training (will follow your advice Ally) and only climb on Tuesday and Sunday next week as it’s 5K ‘Race Day’ on Saturday and we’ll see if the Strava Training Plan has made a difference…
Weight = 70.6kg
Looks like a good week so far for peeps with injuries healing up, Nick smashing out a quick mile, Mutley sending Zippy's and everyone else getting loads of good climbing in. Loving your work people - more of the same please!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hey Ally, hope you've had a good week and thank you for the prestigious FCOTW award! It's easy to forget how much actual mileage you're getting in when all you see is a single 'tick' for your efforts. I was thinking about it the other day, I guess something like the Walker Spur is nearly the same as doing 80-100 routes at Stanage in a day! Insane.
Both La Snoopy and Snoopy Directe are down in the logs as 6b but I certainly wouldn't argue with 6b+ for the stopper move off the belay on P4. In reality it's probably more to do with my p*ss weak finger strength! Not sure if the rest of the pitch in question is considered 6b, the layback was steep but I thought it felt pretty steady.
M: Slow start as we were all knackered after the Swiss Direct. Wanted to do the Contamine route on Pointe Lachenal on the way back to the lift but decided we didn't have time so bumbled along the Arete des Cosmiques (AD 3) which I'd never done before. Classic alpine tick! Real cruisy but I'm glad to have got it done. Never seen such polished granite.
T: Rest
W: Forecast looked weird but decided we should go and have a looked up high, the gamble paid off! Contamine-Grisolle (AD 3) on the Tacul. Cool route, good leg-workout romping up 700m vertical to the summit in 4 hours.
T: Rest
F: Attempted the Grands Montets Ridge (D+), but it was much snowier than anticipated. Supposed to be a straightforward route, we had to climb the lot in gloves and crampons, which slowed us down immensely. Bivvied on a tiny ledge after the Aiguille Carree so as to avoid getting benighted on the way to the actual bivi spot below the Calotte. We were expecting stable weather overnight as per all the forecasts but we got snowed on for 10 hours and spent the night getting gradually forced off our ledge by accumulating snowdrifts...
S: ...Woke up soaked through and cold, by the sound of a big powder avalanche releasing down the Sans Nom face. Ran away down the 'North Couloir' of the Aiguille Carree. 600m of down climbing and an hour of breaking trail through deep powder across the glacier put us back at the GM lift which (thankfully) was running. Never been so glad to sleep in a warm dry bed.
S: Muchos rest.
Last week's goals: Okay, actual circuit session again, no. I'm actually going to stop forcing the issue on this one, I'm starting to sound like a broken record.* 3 alpine ticks missed out on this, though I feel like the effort required to get to where we did on the GM ridge and then to bail probably exceeded that of most successful alpine routes, so a pseudo-tick...
STG (this week): 3 more ticks, make the most of this next weather window before the stormy weather comes in at the end of the week.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
*I might've said this already but I feel like all the mileage I'm getting is kind of filling the role of training at the moment, as I'm regularly doing decent-sized approaches and 500m+ of climbing in a day so I haven't really got the psyche to be getting out on long runs and doing 2 hour circuit sessions on the days off. Maybe I'm just being lazy so I'd be interested to hear what others think, but at the sort of level I'm at I feel as if my time would be best spent doing short regular core sessions (I've found in the past this has made a huge difference to my climbing ability) and, as the cold weather approaches, focusing on semi-specific exercises like calf-raises, pull-ups and dead hangs on tools and trying to get out dry-tooling when the weather's not conducive to getting up high.
Hey Ally, hope you've had a good week and thank you for the prestigious FCOTW award! It's easy to forget how much actual mileage you're getting in when all you see is a single 'tick' for your efforts. I was thinking about it the other day, I guess something like the Walker Spur is nearly the same as doing 80-100 routes at Stanage in a day! Insane.
Both La Snoopy and Snoopy Directe are down in the logs as 6b but I certainly wouldn't argue with 6b+ for the stopper move off the belay on P4. In reality it's probably more to do with my p*ss weak finger strength! Not sure if the rest of the pitch in question is considered 6b, the layback was steep but I thought it felt pretty steady.
M: Slow start as we were all knackered after the Swiss Direct. Wanted to do the Contamine route on Pointe Lachenal on the way back to the lift but decided we didn't have time so bumbled along the Arete des Cosmiques (AD 3) which I'd never done before. Classic alpine tick! Real cruisy but I'm glad to have got it done. Never seen such polished granite.
T: Rest
W: Forecast looked weird but decided we should go and have a looked up high, the gamble paid off! Contamine-Grisolle (AD 3) on the Tacul. Cool route, good leg-workout romping up 700m vertical to the summit in 4 hours.
T: Rest
F: Attempted the Grands Montets Ridge (D+), but it was much snowier than anticipated. Supposed to be a straightforward route, we had to climb the lot in gloves and crampons, which slowed us down immensely. Bivvied on a tiny ledge after the Aiguille Carree so as to avoid getting benighted on the way to the actual bivi spot below the Calotte. We were expecting stable weather overnight as per all the forecasts but we got snowed on for 10 hours and spent the night getting gradually forced off our ledge by accumulating snowdrifts...
S: ...Woke up soaked through and cold, by the sound of a big powder avalanche releasing down the Sans Nom face. Ran away down the 'North Couloir' of the Aiguille Carree. 600m of down climbing and an hour of breaking trail through deep powder across the glacier put us back at the GM lift which (thankfully) was running. Never been so glad to sleep in a warm dry bed.
S: Muchos rest.
Last week's goals: Okay, actual circuit session again, no. I'm actually going to stop forcing the issue on this one, I'm starting to sound like a broken record.* 3 alpine ticks missed out on this, though I feel like the effort required to get to where we did on the GM ridge and then to bail probably exceeded that of most successful alpine routes, so a pseudo-tick...
STG (this week): 3 more ticks, make the most of this next weather window before the stormy weather comes in at the end of the week.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
*I might've said this already but I feel like all the mileage I'm getting is kind of filling the role of training at the moment, as I'm regularly doing decent-sized approaches and 500m+ of climbing in a day so I haven't really got the psyche to be getting out on long runs and doing 2 hour circuit sessions on the days off. Maybe I'm just being lazy so I'd be interested to hear what others think, but at the sort of level I'm at I feel as if my time would be best spent doing short regular core sessions (I've found in the past this has made a huge difference to my climbing ability) and, as the cold weather approaches, focusing on semi-specific exercises like calf-raises, pull-ups and dead hangs on tools and trying to get out dry-tooling when the weather's not conducive to getting up high.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Very poor week training wise but at least I've got something to put in my logbook:
M: Trowbarrow with Mrs, two easy routes
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
T: BoulderUK, definitely getting stronger (well lighter). Two V6s, one I expected to do, one I didn't
F: Nothing
S: Wiltonfest with Mrs, a few easy routes
S: Forced to Malham despite the sun, couldn't get on SYT as it was too hot, thought about Baboo but was potentially busy. Partner and I had agreed we'd both get on the same route regardless, when she plumped for GBH I got caught up in her enthusiasm forgetting that she's climbed a lot harder and I have never climbed that hard. I'm mindful of getting embroiled in something too hard after the Thumb debacle but this seems doable given time (the Thumb was meant to be time bound). Anyway, one stick clip go and three working top rope goes, didn't do all the moves and the ones I couldn't manage are at the top after a lot of tough climbing . Hmm...dilemma
Weight frequently below 10 7
Very poor week training wise but at least I've got something to put in my logbook:
M: Trowbarrow with Mrs, two easy routes
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
T: BoulderUK, definitely getting stronger (well lighter). Two V6s, one I expected to do, one I didn't
F: Nothing
S: Wiltonfest with Mrs, a few easy routes
S: Forced to Malham despite the sun, couldn't get on SYT as it was too hot, thought about Baboo but was potentially busy. Partner and I had agreed we'd both get on the same route regardless, when she plumped for GBH I got caught up in her enthusiasm forgetting that she's climbed a lot harder and I have never climbed that hard. I'm mindful of getting embroiled in something too hard after the Thumb debacle but this seems doable given time (the Thumb was meant to be time bound). Anyway, one stick clip go and three working top rope goes, didn't do all the moves and the ones I couldn't manage are at the top after a lot of tough climbing . Hmm...dilemma
Weight frequently below 10 7
In reply to Ally Smith:
MTG (Daring to think the shoulder might not be perma-f*cked; objectives for remainder of 2015):
The Medium; f8a slate slab
Tony Slab Chamonix; another f8a slab
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions – more than just the 8min ab app
77 mile Peak District Sportive without bonking to badly
sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Icing, stretching, and rehab every day for hurty bits:
- finger; continue gentle progression with back-2 and middle-2 deadhangs
- knee; foam roller
- wrist;
- both shoulders
- 2x >30km bike rides
- Do “daily ab workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight;
Last week:
M - Slate with a sore toes - had a low blood sugar grump warming up on a friable & poorly bolted f6b (the easiest thing I’ve bailed off for 10 years?), then did 2x E3, 6a+, & E3/4 flashes. Again shoulder felt worked, but by morning had increased painfree RoM; glad I reigned in the enthusiasm and didn’t overdo it.
T - Started the theraband external rotation work at physio’s behest. Very weak in anything but a neutral position. Starting from this low level; any progress should be easy to observe!
W - Another FB warm-up/rehab and back-2 (+4), middle-2 (+2.5) & front-2 (+20) hangs. Modicum of strength returning, but last 5% of RoM still uncomfortable. 8min ab app.
T - Stretchin’ & icing.
F - Bike to work & back; 35km. FB1. Sml campus edge. 6 sets. 4x10 pull-ups. Still not a full FB session, but definite progress.
S - 2nd physio session – diagnosis still not eliminated SLAP tear – one more week and then I’ll get mardy and insist on the MRI scan. Shoulder sore from mobility and resistance exercises.
S - Shoulder much less sore on waking. Slate. Damp start. F6a, E3/4 6a flashes, then Medium (f8a) and My Halo on TR. Belaying Mischa on My Halo was a bit intense as he got a good sewing machine leg on post crux!
MTG (Daring to think the shoulder might not be perma-f*cked; objectives for remainder of 2015):
The Medium; f8a slate slab
Tony Slab Chamonix; another f8a slab
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions – more than just the 8min ab app
77 mile Peak District Sportive without bonking to badly
sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Icing, stretching, and rehab every day for hurty bits:
- finger; continue gentle progression with back-2 and middle-2 deadhangs
- knee; foam roller
- wrist;
- both shoulders
- 2x >30km bike rides
- Do “daily ab workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight;
Last week:
M - Slate with a sore toes - had a low blood sugar grump warming up on a friable & poorly bolted f6b (the easiest thing I’ve bailed off for 10 years?), then did 2x E3, 6a+, & E3/4 flashes. Again shoulder felt worked, but by morning had increased painfree RoM; glad I reigned in the enthusiasm and didn’t overdo it.
T - Started the theraband external rotation work at physio’s behest. Very weak in anything but a neutral position. Starting from this low level; any progress should be easy to observe!
W - Another FB warm-up/rehab and back-2 (+4), middle-2 (+2.5) & front-2 (+20) hangs. Modicum of strength returning, but last 5% of RoM still uncomfortable. 8min ab app.
T - Stretchin’ & icing.
F - Bike to work & back; 35km. FB1. Sml campus edge. 6 sets. 4x10 pull-ups. Still not a full FB session, but definite progress.
S - 2nd physio session – diagnosis still not eliminated SLAP tear – one more week and then I’ll get mardy and insist on the MRI scan. Shoulder sore from mobility and resistance exercises.
S - Shoulder much less sore on waking. Slate. Damp start. F6a, E3/4 6a flashes, then Medium (f8a) and My Halo on TR. Belaying Mischa on My Halo was a bit intense as he got a good sewing machine leg on post crux!
In reply to Tyler:
GBH is probably my favourite route at Malham - not least because it's not your usual Malham fayre - burlier side pulls and flags rather than super footsie.
It also came together much quicker than other Malham routes of the same grade; personally i thought it easier then Zoolook...
GBH is probably my favourite route at Malham - not least because it's not your usual Malham fayre - burlier side pulls and flags rather than super footsie.
It also came together much quicker than other Malham routes of the same grade; personally i thought it easier then Zoolook...
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks again for the thread Ally!
"Is there a kids club at the wall you could enrol the munchkin in and get a climbing in for yourself at the same time?"
There is and she does! Over the summer holidays the timetable changes and they become taster sessions in the middle of the day, it makes it too impractical on a regular basis. They started again last sat but we had to miss the first one as I'd promised to spend the day with my brother.
Anyway, last week was a bit better:
Mon - Bouldering comp problems at the Depot. I got my worst ever score, really struggled as I had Munchkin with me, a friend also came so at least there were 2 adults but I jusrt wasn't pulling anything out the bag. Munchkin got her best ever score so that cheered me up!
Tues - 2 mile run and an hour or so easy bouldering, felt slightly better.
Weds - 2 mile run.
Thurs - 1.4 miles, half of which running carrying a stunt scooter! Daughter uses scooter while I run to school, I carry it back. This will need to be the routine now or her new school being further away will mean I lose the run time altogether. 2 hrs bouldering, mostly easy stuff but I felt ok.
Fri - 1.4 mile school run/scooter carry! 2 hours roped climbs, did x 2 6bs I was well chuffed with! Generally felt better again.
Sat - ARGHHH!! all day at an air show and I don't like air shows! Brother and daughter very happy...
Sun - Bouldering, funny session. Did comp problems, didn't do well but usually do them over two sessions and realised I left it too late so had to just stick my scores in.
I had a session with an NHS physio on fri. He was very thourough and concluded that there's some swelling in my knee that hasn't gone down due to still doing a fair bit of exercise. What did surprise me was that he didn't think that this means doing the exercise was wrong - he said there's a down side to stopping too. The upshot is to go for stuff if I want to but aim for about 70-75% of usual exercise/effort. What was really good is that he was very encouraging about using his clinic in the future so I feel like I have open access to physio for free!
Thanks again for the thread Ally!
"Is there a kids club at the wall you could enrol the munchkin in and get a climbing in for yourself at the same time?"
There is and she does! Over the summer holidays the timetable changes and they become taster sessions in the middle of the day, it makes it too impractical on a regular basis. They started again last sat but we had to miss the first one as I'd promised to spend the day with my brother.
Anyway, last week was a bit better:
Mon - Bouldering comp problems at the Depot. I got my worst ever score, really struggled as I had Munchkin with me, a friend also came so at least there were 2 adults but I jusrt wasn't pulling anything out the bag. Munchkin got her best ever score so that cheered me up!
Tues - 2 mile run and an hour or so easy bouldering, felt slightly better.
Weds - 2 mile run.
Thurs - 1.4 miles, half of which running carrying a stunt scooter! Daughter uses scooter while I run to school, I carry it back. This will need to be the routine now or her new school being further away will mean I lose the run time altogether. 2 hrs bouldering, mostly easy stuff but I felt ok.
Fri - 1.4 mile school run/scooter carry! 2 hours roped climbs, did x 2 6bs I was well chuffed with! Generally felt better again.
Sat - ARGHHH!! all day at an air show and I don't like air shows! Brother and daughter very happy...
Sun - Bouldering, funny session. Did comp problems, didn't do well but usually do them over two sessions and realised I left it too late so had to just stick my scores in.
I had a session with an NHS physio on fri. He was very thourough and concluded that there's some swelling in my knee that hasn't gone down due to still doing a fair bit of exercise. What did surprise me was that he didn't think that this means doing the exercise was wrong - he said there's a down side to stopping too. The upshot is to go for stuff if I want to but aim for about 70-75% of usual exercise/effort. What was really good is that he was very encouraging about using his clinic in the future so I feel like I have open access to physio for free!
In reply to Ally Smith:
No WCJ this week - even worked yesterday, my 50th birthday!
One session indoors, first one for maybe 7 weeks and can't believe how weak I am. However, cimbing so much better, which is all that matters and for a second thought I was gonna flash a V5/6. That'd have been a new indoor grade but only had the one go and then went on the systems board.
Sorta confirms what I've been thinking for a while, that indoors just confuses my learning and saps my psyche generally. Roll on the trip!
Not gonna be reporting from now one, too much to do before I go and what I manage will be far from training. Cheers everyone for the encouragement and group psyche!
If anyone needs a belay in Spain, we'll be in catalunya from Nov-Jan and I'll be on my own, based at the Orange House during Feb and March - just shout.
No WCJ this week - even worked yesterday, my 50th birthday!
One session indoors, first one for maybe 7 weeks and can't believe how weak I am. However, cimbing so much better, which is all that matters and for a second thought I was gonna flash a V5/6. That'd have been a new indoor grade but only had the one go and then went on the systems board.
Sorta confirms what I've been thinking for a while, that indoors just confuses my learning and saps my psyche generally. Roll on the trip!
Not gonna be reporting from now one, too much to do before I go and what I manage will be far from training. Cheers everyone for the encouragement and group psyche!
If anyone needs a belay in Spain, we'll be in catalunya from Nov-Jan and I'll be on my own, based at the Orange House during Feb and March - just shout.
2
In reply to mrchewy:
Hope all goes well for the final preparations Kelvin. Will be around and about over the winter so maybe catch you out there.
2 months in the orange house though - you'll go mad!
Hope all goes well for the final preparations Kelvin. Will be around and about over the winter so maybe catch you out there.
2 months in the orange house though - you'll go mad!
2
In reply to mrchewy:
There is a plan afoot for a group of us to be in the Costa Blanca 3rd week of February and i might head out to Catalunya for a long weekend in Jan; stay in touch.
There is a plan afoot for a group of us to be in the Costa Blanca 3rd week of February and i might head out to Catalunya for a long weekend in Jan; stay in touch.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Sounds good lads - I'm sure we'll catch up. Jordon ticked Free Monster on Friday, his first 8a, so he's good to go and I realised I somehow got through the summer not ticking anything harder than a 6b flash... so the goal is a whole number grade higher by this time next year! Ha
Sounds good lads - I'm sure we'll catch up. Jordon ticked Free Monster on Friday, his first 8a, so he's good to go and I realised I somehow got through the summer not ticking anything harder than a 6b flash... so the goal is a whole number grade higher by this time next year! Ha
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally.
Yep, got back there and made progress -
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr 10min on the road bike (Winter endurance)
T: pm - 2hrs - On 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Three goes. Got it in two slightly overlapping halves on last go.
W: am - Light ARC / recovery session outside
T: am - 1hr 10 min road ride. (Winter endurance.)
F: Rest
S: pm - 2hrs - On 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Two goes. Got it in one on top rope. Start RPing I guess!
S: Rest
A good week. Dented the weight, (down to 11st 10lb from 12st,) and AVOFGW has gone a lot better than I thought it would. It's a route it is easy to slip off, and right at my limit, so I think it's now a case of RPing with plenty of rest between attempts.
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally.
Yep, got back there and made progress -
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr 10min on the road bike (Winter endurance)
T: pm - 2hrs - On 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Three goes. Got it in two slightly overlapping halves on last go.
W: am - Light ARC / recovery session outside
T: am - 1hr 10 min road ride. (Winter endurance.)
F: Rest
S: pm - 2hrs - On 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Two goes. Got it in one on top rope. Start RPing I guess!
S: Rest
A good week. Dented the weight, (down to 11st 10lb from 12st,) and AVOFGW has gone a lot better than I thought it would. It's a route it is easy to slip off, and right at my limit, so I think it's now a case of RPing with plenty of rest between attempts.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Missed another week - new job has played havoc with my timings. Too much inactivity early in the week.
Had a steroid injection in my right hand, unfortunately made no difference. I've pretty much reached the limit of my budget for private treatment so will be going back for a 2nd opinion with my NHS consultant in a couple of weeks time. Seems unlikely I'll have anything sorted before my Kalymnos trip, though. Will just be muddling through as I have been all year, and hope to have it sorted before the Winter season kicks off.
Last week -
Mon Rest
Tue Rest
Wed Rest
Thu Trail Run/10.42km/413m
Fri 4x4s at AW Stockport. Think I've got the intensity to about the right level now.
Sat Trail Run/13.3km/1249m. Snowdon Horseshoe. Finally got into the mountains for a proper run, hope to make this a more regular thing - though it was heartbreaking to be up on Crib Goch looking over to a climber-free Dinas Cromlech on a glorious sunny day.
3.5 hours round trip from the Pen y Pass car park. Could probably have saved an hour by not faffing around taking photos, but routefinding was fairly obvious so not sure why there's such a large discrepancy between my route and the UKH routecard ( I apparently did an extra 2km and 300m ascent ).
Sun Rest.
Missed another week - new job has played havoc with my timings. Too much inactivity early in the week.
Had a steroid injection in my right hand, unfortunately made no difference. I've pretty much reached the limit of my budget for private treatment so will be going back for a 2nd opinion with my NHS consultant in a couple of weeks time. Seems unlikely I'll have anything sorted before my Kalymnos trip, though. Will just be muddling through as I have been all year, and hope to have it sorted before the Winter season kicks off.
Last week -
Mon Rest
Tue Rest
Wed Rest
Thu Trail Run/10.42km/413m
Fri 4x4s at AW Stockport. Think I've got the intensity to about the right level now.
Sat Trail Run/13.3km/1249m. Snowdon Horseshoe. Finally got into the mountains for a proper run, hope to make this a more regular thing - though it was heartbreaking to be up on Crib Goch looking over to a climber-free Dinas Cromlech on a glorious sunny day.
3.5 hours round trip from the Pen y Pass car park. Could probably have saved an hour by not faffing around taking photos, but routefinding was fairly obvious so not sure why there's such a large discrepancy between my route and the UKH routecard ( I apparently did an extra 2km and 300m ascent ).
Sun Rest.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing Fitclub Ally! Sounds like you had a good week, does the 8a slab has any holds or is it just blank wall? The 7 (f6c) I tried on this week already had so small holds on a vertical wall, that I can’t imagine how an 8a slab looks like. In the beginning of the week, I still had the psyche from the worldcup, but focussing on balancy moves I felt I lost some ‘bite’, so focussed on that towards the end.
Weight: 67.8kg
M: climbing outdoors, warmed up on a 7- with one fall, really cool route, then got shut down on a 7, which was called heavily frustrated men (I completely understand the name), then gave a 7- an onsight try and climbed passed the crux, with one move to go my foot slipped off a smear. All the routes where really suiting my practicing on small hold/balance moves goal, felt they went really well for being one of my weak sides, even though I didn’t climb any of them in one go (just tried once on all of them).
T: running + core, shoulders and triceps
W: first day on work as a kids coach, climbed afterwards myself, onsighted up to 6b+, missed one 6b+ and struggled on a slopey 6c.
T: climbing indoors, bouldering first focussing on small holds/balancy moves, then trying hard on autobelay, felt I missed some aggressiveness after the delicate climbing of the past weeks, but almost did a 7+ and came further on an 8-
F: rest
S: Took the kidsgroup outside for a climbing session, it was tiring, but really nice seeing them enjoy the outdoors. When stripping the draws I forced myself to take some falls on nuts, which I’d never done before and which really holds me back on trad, and all the placements held, so that will hopefully give me some confidence on trad.
S: climbing indoors, did a 5+ onsight as a warmup, but was tired in my legs of walking around the crag the day before. So went bouldering, repeating up to 6B+ just having one try on each, which went well.
Thanks for doing Fitclub Ally! Sounds like you had a good week, does the 8a slab has any holds or is it just blank wall? The 7 (f6c) I tried on this week already had so small holds on a vertical wall, that I can’t imagine how an 8a slab looks like. In the beginning of the week, I still had the psyche from the worldcup, but focussing on balancy moves I felt I lost some ‘bite’, so focussed on that towards the end.
Weight: 67.8kg
M: climbing outdoors, warmed up on a 7- with one fall, really cool route, then got shut down on a 7, which was called heavily frustrated men (I completely understand the name), then gave a 7- an onsight try and climbed passed the crux, with one move to go my foot slipped off a smear. All the routes where really suiting my practicing on small hold/balance moves goal, felt they went really well for being one of my weak sides, even though I didn’t climb any of them in one go (just tried once on all of them).
T: running + core, shoulders and triceps
W: first day on work as a kids coach, climbed afterwards myself, onsighted up to 6b+, missed one 6b+ and struggled on a slopey 6c.
T: climbing indoors, bouldering first focussing on small holds/balancy moves, then trying hard on autobelay, felt I missed some aggressiveness after the delicate climbing of the past weeks, but almost did a 7+ and came further on an 8-
F: rest
S: Took the kidsgroup outside for a climbing session, it was tiring, but really nice seeing them enjoy the outdoors. When stripping the draws I forced myself to take some falls on nuts, which I’d never done before and which really holds me back on trad, and all the placements held, so that will hopefully give me some confidence on trad.
S: climbing indoors, did a 5+ onsight as a warmup, but was tired in my legs of walking around the crag the day before. So went bouldering, repeating up to 6B+ just having one try on each, which went well.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally and everyone else, this will be quite brief but if I don't do it now then it won't get done.
Split week- did not touch rock, bad, three positive bouldering sessions, good. Definitely in a transition, had good regular partner for last couple of years but this has been under pressure for different reasons on both our parts. This coupled with the worst shoulder/elbow issue I've ever had has really slowed me down. Physically now feeling good, no pain or restriction but aware I need to keep up rehab so doing theraband', stretching weights every other day as a minmum. Also arranging to climb with others, I have been out this week but this is last week so-
M-TCA, warmed up ticked a couple more blues.
T-rehab, stretching, 45 lengths swim.
W- rehab.
Th-TCA, nothing new ticked but felt good.
F-12 hours at work
Sa-rehab, much driving to visit family
Su-good session at TCA though felt ropey, ticked a few more blues, probably down to last five.
Plans for this week, 3 x rock, 1x wall.
Quite tempted to set myself a 7b pyramid to do by Xmas, might be a tad ambitious but-
6c/+ (3/8) 7a (1/4) 7a+ (0/2) 7b (0/1)-all routes done since July obviously.
May get downgraded to a 7a+ pyramid. Going to focus on getting out rather than a program and the knuckle down to some focussed work after a Christmas break.
Rich
Thanks Ally and everyone else, this will be quite brief but if I don't do it now then it won't get done.
Split week- did not touch rock, bad, three positive bouldering sessions, good. Definitely in a transition, had good regular partner for last couple of years but this has been under pressure for different reasons on both our parts. This coupled with the worst shoulder/elbow issue I've ever had has really slowed me down. Physically now feeling good, no pain or restriction but aware I need to keep up rehab so doing theraband', stretching weights every other day as a minmum. Also arranging to climb with others, I have been out this week but this is last week so-
M-TCA, warmed up ticked a couple more blues.
T-rehab, stretching, 45 lengths swim.
W- rehab.
Th-TCA, nothing new ticked but felt good.
F-12 hours at work
Sa-rehab, much driving to visit family
Su-good session at TCA though felt ropey, ticked a few more blues, probably down to last five.
Plans for this week, 3 x rock, 1x wall.
Quite tempted to set myself a 7b pyramid to do by Xmas, might be a tad ambitious but-
6c/+ (3/8) 7a (1/4) 7a+ (0/2) 7b (0/1)-all routes done since July obviously.
May get downgraded to a 7a+ pyramid. Going to focus on getting out rather than a program and the knuckle down to some focussed work after a Christmas break.
Rich
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally - a ballsy solution, but I think I've blown that option as we're already at the squirming stage. Exchanged yesterday and complete on 24th. First viewing to moving in in 41 days - perhaps a new record? Surprisingly good week last week all considered, but this week has been super poor so far as have had meetings every night and running an event on Saturday.
M - Boulder Climbing Unit. One of the v6-8 circuit onsight (PB ¡V but yes, it was tiny pockets and crimps which I like and have been doing lots of recently, so cheating)
T - Lead Brookes to 7a+
W - rest
T - tiny boulder Brookes but mostly routesetting
F - Foundation Coach assessment - very high pass, so another tick on the way to getting plan B qualifications stacked up.
S - Lead Trowbarrow. Bloody love the main wall there, what a wonderful piece of rock.
S - Triathlon run leg. Loved the 20% gradients - not. Tired bouldering at Carrock Fell on the way back to V2.
Thanks Ally - a ballsy solution, but I think I've blown that option as we're already at the squirming stage. Exchanged yesterday and complete on 24th. First viewing to moving in in 41 days - perhaps a new record? Surprisingly good week last week all considered, but this week has been super poor so far as have had meetings every night and running an event on Saturday.
M - Boulder Climbing Unit. One of the v6-8 circuit onsight (PB ¡V but yes, it was tiny pockets and crimps which I like and have been doing lots of recently, so cheating)
T - Lead Brookes to 7a+
W - rest
T - tiny boulder Brookes but mostly routesetting
F - Foundation Coach assessment - very high pass, so another tick on the way to getting plan B qualifications stacked up.
S - Lead Trowbarrow. Bloody love the main wall there, what a wonderful piece of rock.
S - Triathlon run leg. Loved the 20% gradients - not. Tired bouldering at Carrock Fell on the way back to V2.
Post edited at 09:49
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