UKC

i would like to train my endurance but i have limited access to a wall. i have a pull-up bar, finger board and rings at home, are these of any use? any other techniques

thanks

In reply to JSH:

You should be able to do it but it will be very boring. Endurance training can be boring even when you're moving around on a climbing wall. You also won't get the benefit of developing your movement patterns by being on a climbing wall.

The key to doing it with the equipment you describe is to get the correct load on your arms for your desired goals.

You can adjust the load on your arms by taking some weight with your feet. Keep your feet on the ground. You can use a chair if the ground is too far away. The further away your feet are from your handholds horizontally, the more weight your arms will take. Aim to find a location where you can use the holds you want for the duration you are aiming for. As you progress, either increase the duration, move your feet further away, or reduce the hold size depending on your aims.

When doing each set, keep your hands moving around various holds as if you were climbing. The repeated loading/unloading is an important part of building endurance as it 'teaches' your forearm to deal with pump. Try to simulate how long you may hold on to a hold for when actually climbing.

Good luck with it.

I hope this makes some sense,
Mehmet

In reply to JSH:

Do you not have access to a professional trainer? I would have thought that given your age and ability level someone at the BMC would be able to help you out.

I'd be wary of any advice you get on here. People are generally pretty knowledgeable, but the advice I'd give to an adult is different to the advice I'd give a14 year old.

In reply to planetmarshall:

i am being coached/mentored by Calum muskett, but he doesnt really train.

In reply to JSH:

Out of interest why do you want to train endurance. By that I mean do you have some specific aim?

Generally training strength is more useful and takes longer to get plus you should gain some endurance in the process.

For forearm stamina you could use your fingerboard with some feet on exercises. If you're strong enough though just doing sets of finger tip pull ups is probably better since there is a higher strength component.

In an interview Adam Ondra was asked about how he balances strength training with endurance. His answer was that when he feels strong his endurance is better too. This might not work for everyone though as we all have different body types. Some people get endurance fairly easily whilst others find it much harder.