UKC

Tom Randall has climbed a new line on Ilam Rock at Dovedale, which he has named The Final Round and graded HXS 8a+/b. The route is now believed to be the hardest limestone trad climb in the Peak District. Tom first spotted the line earlier this year whilst climbing Eye of the Tiger E7 6c.

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In reply to UKC News:

Great write up on Tom's blog. Terrifying!

From my lowly viewpoint, Tom's description of digging in whilst everythig goes pear shaped and his explanation of his motivations/feelings towards the route ring true for me.

In reply to UKC News:
Given equilibrium is supposed to be ~8b+ it isn't the hardest trad climb in the peak district. It may be the hardest trad climb on limestone in the peak district.

In reply to Skyfall:


Quite, there have been quite a few routes i've got through by fear of having to repeat the lower moves. brrrrr

Nice one Tom, delightfully esoteric. Look forward to seeing the video.

In reply to UKC News:

Great chin.

In reply to charvey:


But the standard deviation of Equilibrium is less (check your guidebook from your armchair), hence Last Round is statistically the hardest trad route - perhaps in the world.

In reply to UKC News:

At 22 Seconds into the film does he say "Its one big IRISH mega pitch"? or am I missing something.

In reply to Aigen:

That's just what it sounded like to me. Perhaps he's using 'Irish' as some kind of synonym for crazy or outrageous??

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I think it comes from the trend at places like Fairhead to link some previously multi-pitch things into single long pitches

In reply to abarro81:

I had a feeling it might have something to do with that.

In reply to UKC News:

Good job. Love the HXS grade. More honest than an E grade on a headpointed route. Reminds me of Mick Fowler who also used HXS to grade some of his most serious routes (those with death potential for all members of the party).

In reply to Michael Ryan:

I thought that echo wall would be much harder than last round. So not hardest in world or UK

In reply to puppythedog:


Echo Wall is easier, the further north you go the effects of gravity decrease.

So yes, clever dog, it is the hardest in the World.

I'm sure Randall has had media training, either that or he should start a media training consultancy.

In reply to Michael Ryan:

I'd forgotten about Gravity degradation.

In reply to Michael Ryan:


Don't ruin things. I'm hoping to hear arguments on the difficulty from people who climb at least 7 E points below the climb in question.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Surely you mean 7 H points?

In reply to planetmarshall:

what does that have to do with an argument about whether a climb graded by the Ascensionist at 8a+/b is harder than a climb described as 8c+.

Do you need to climb 7a to know that it is likely to be easier than 8a?

In reply to puppythedog:



We're not talking about whether a 7a is likely to be easier than an 8a, but the relative difficulty of two climbs that have so far had only a single ascent, and by two different people.

To put it in statistical terms, the error bars around the grade difficulty of both climbs are likely to overlap somewhat.

In reply to planetmarshall:


Eh? I thought you were talking about Equilibrium and The Final Round. Equilibrium has had at least three ascents, maybe more that I haven't noticed.

Back on track, well done Tom.

In reply to planetmarshall:


Did I just read an argument on the difficulty from someone who climbs at least seven E points below the climb in question?

In reply to UKC News:

BAh,


Like what's he ever done one Grit...

In reply to Ramblin dave:


Kind of. It was an argument that categorically stating that this climb is easier or harder than another that has also only had one ascent (and by a different person) is fairly pointless.

In reply to IainWhitehouse:


puppythedog referred to an 8c+ climb, so I assume he was referring to Echo Wall. Equillibrium has had at least 26 ascents, or that's what I would assume given that it's had 26 votes on its difficulty in the UKC Logs. Obviously voting on the difficulty of a climb that you haven't led would be stupid.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Yes but I replying to Mick's comment that it might be the hardest trad climb in uk. I then offered an alternative which is very likely to be harder than First round. I mostly picked Echo wall because I couldn't remember the name of Dave's route from E11 which was suggested at 8c on trad I think and therefore also harder than First round.

I don't care about the grade, the write up was fantastic and I think Tom's efforts are genuinely inspiring. I do dislike patently innacurate hyperbole which detracts from the news rather than adding to it. It is enough of an achievement and an experience I am sure without it being the hardest Peak route or hardest in the UK or hardest in the world.

While everyone is getting bogged down in grades and which climb is harder or more dangerous, I must clarify that Ilam is pronounce 'eye-lam' and not 'ill-am' nor, as one American tourist once remarked as a quaint name for a village, 11am!

In reply to puppythedog:

Two things:

1. Never take Mick too seriously. He's often having a laugh, making a quip or plain taking the mick (ironic?). He's like many of us should be. Not too serious about anything. Although granted, it's not always easy to get the silly side across in posts without millions of emoticons etc. From my own perspective I can tell you that it's highly unlikely that Final Round is anywhere near as hard as Echo Wall or Equilibrium... but then again I think you know that anyway

2. I think Nat's original title was a simple mistake. She quickly rectified it and I think that's cool. She was as quick as possible off the mark and has done her best. I personally, can't complain about that.

In reply to Benjizac. I never knew that! Thanks

In reply to UKC News:

Is it just me who's noticed that Tom seems to be wearing odd shoes?

In reply to tehmarks:

Pretty standard affair. If a route doesn't require odd boots, then it's not that hard really.

Tom, well done, I knew you'd have it done before I could join you there again! Looks totally mint.

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
Hi Tom,
I didn't realise Mick was being tongue in cheek.
Your write up was superb. Most enjoyable read about a climb for a while. Good job on the route but you know that and certainly don't need me to say so.
Best bit in the write up was acknowledging the different motivations for climbing. Made sense of something I have wondered about for a while you can chase grades and experience.

In reply to UKC News:

It's great to see folk putting up hard trad routes like this. Good effort Tom!

In reply to stp:


Not sure it's more honest, it's more just another way of saying 'I've no idea what grade to give it so I'm not even going to try'. Whether that's to be admired or not is probably a matter of opinion.

In reply to benjizac:


I've always called it 11am rock as well....much nicer name. And I've only done the grotty HS round the back so I'm not qualified to make any comments.... But its an awesome ascent by a hugely talented climber!

In reply to benjizac:
Yes, definitely Eye-lam. I'm Derbyshire born and bred, and it does grate a bit to hear it mispronounced.
Congrats on the new route! I've looked enviously at the crags in Dovedale a few times.