UKC

Looking for suggestions for safe E4s in Yorkshire. Don't mind running it out but nothing with ground fall potential. Have done The Great Santini (E4 6a) at Dovestones and have Wellington Crack (E4 5c) at Ilkley on the list already.

Happy with grit or lime.

Cheers.

In reply to Mike Todd:

York Lime
Butcher's Dog (E4 6a) - Kilnsey
Worlds In Collision (E4 5c) (P1) - Kilnsey

North York Moors
Psychosis (E4 6a) - Smugglers Terrace
Mane Vision (E4 6b) - Round Crag
Stargazer (E3 5c) - Highcliffe Nab
Time Captain (E4 5c) (sustained, pumpy, small cams required - used to get E2...maybe it still is?!) - Ingleby Incline
Stratagem (E5 6b) - Ravens Scar

Yorks Grit
Flame Arete (E5 6b) - Hawkcliffe
Eavestone Crack (E4 6a) - Eavestone

In reply to Mike Todd:

Slender Loris. 2.5 and 3 friend in upper breaks?

In reply to Mike Todd:

Grand illusion at arms cliff is a corker.

In reply to Mike Todd:

also Arries Ook at almscliff is really good. the start is a bit highball but fine with a pad. If you're lucky there will be loads of cow shite at the bottom to break your fall!

In reply to theomoore:
Quite agree with Grand Illusion! Possibly soft end of E4 (?) but what a great line with a really safe fall-out zone. Brill!

In reply to Mike Todd:
Wellington Crack (E4 5c)

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

See the OP's original offerings

In reply to Mike Todd:

Slender Loris (E4 6a) at Malham is brilliant, might be something for you up on the Terrace as well?
Grand Illusion (E4 5c)
Master Spy (E4 6a) at Wilton 1 just across the border
Bob Hope (E4 6a) at Dovestones Edge
Heptonstall Quarry probably worth a visit as well

In reply to Mike Todd:

Central Wall (E4 6a), Kilnsey

In reply to Mike Todd:

You been on All Quiet yet mike? Its proper good and safe, Grand Illusion is only E4 if you do All Quiet first!

Grit Expectations is safe but tough to onsight. Jokers Wall safe after bouldering the start. True Grit

Death Drop 2000 at caley as a high ball is mint too.

Cheers

Phil

In reply to Phil Ev:

Not yet.. yeah i thought Grand Illusion gets E3 in the new(ish) guide.

Will have a look at the other suggestions

Cheers

In reply to Mike Todd:

Grand Illusion is still great though and Arrie's is excellent, on sight-able and a reasonable proposition with some mattage

Cheers

In reply to climberchristy:


Is the cam slot in the roof any good? I always assumed the last good gear was in the last break at the back of the roof and the fall would be horrible.

jk

In reply to Mike Todd:

The Big C (E4 5c) at Kilnsey. It has really good climbing, is quite easy for the grade, is nearly always clean and has loads of gear. I made use of 24 runners: a couple of bolts, 3 threads and endless wires.

In reply to jkarran:


Shall we go and take a look sometime? Haven't been to the 'cliffe in years

In reply to jkarran:

The cam slot in the roof is bomber, red camalot 1, I can testify to it being safe, once fell with my hand on the 5 star finish break having done all quiet into grand illusion. Even with loads of rope out and long extenders everywhere it was still a safe fall. a runner out left towards the end of the great western traverse stops the swing into the crack of doom corner a bit.

Cheers

In reply to Ally Smith:

Sounds like a plan. I might be a bit fat for E4 roofs at the moment but you never know. I'm away for a week but mostly about thereafter.
jk

In reply to Phil Ev:

Cheers, good to know!
jk

In reply to Mike Todd:

Thumper (E4 5c) at Eastby is an absolute classic!

In reply to Wizzy:


How safe do you think it is?

Andy

In reply to Mike Todd:


Mike,

Enjoy your foray on to Yorkshire E4. Bear in mind there is actually no such animal as a 'safe E4'. I would refer you to the BMC participation statement

Andy

In reply to theomoore:
I put some wide, oposition, side runners in. Might slow you down a bit.

In reply to Bob:

Whoops!

In reply to Andy Say:

Take your point, as safe as E4 can be was my meaning.

In reply to Mike Todd:

Thanks all, got Arries 'ook in the bag yesterday thanks to some encouragement, spotting and a very large crash mat from Phil. Will have a look at the others soon!

In reply to Wizzy:


Definitely not safe.. have top roped this but don't think I would lead it.

In reply to jkarran:

Yeh lead on double ropes - good cams to right under roof and can also put good cam on left rope. set these up then recover by resting below gear on right. then when you go for it you have a 'baby bouncer' set up where you are caught first on right rope and then come tight on left. Fall would be long if you miss going for the jug where great western comes in from left but I doubt it would be 'horrible'. I've come off it from below this point (ie on the crux) and the fall was absolutely fine.

In reply to Mike Todd:

Not done it for a while but remember Bad Brain at Malham being a great route and I don't remember it being too run-out or scary. I did it twice so it can't have been too bad. Another little known gem is System of a Down at Kilnsey. This is the direct finish to Deirdre. Short, but intense and well protected with the added advantage that if you do the original route first you get a free close up inspection on the way down.

Dave

In reply to Mike Todd:

I agree Thumper is definitely not safe!

In reply to Mike Todd:

Limehill. 300 foot fallout zone

In reply to Mike Todd: Balas at Kilnsey is a possible.