In reply to climb41:
Millet Hybrid is pretty good for what you're after. Friend climbs Font 7's with them, and a punter like me can get up Norway E2s in them easily. Slightly more comfy than say Mythos, yet more performance. Seems to smear well, fit in finger cracks and really good of wider crags. It also was voted to be the best alpine rock shoe in the market a few years back.
Sportiva TC Pro is another option... albeit slightly less comfy, as the Hybrid has a nice padded heel.
My current favorite is the 5.10 Moccasym, for most full day affairs. More performance, but less comfy. Easily remedied as they are a slipper though (elastic cord as a loop around the ankle and through the front loop makes removing them easy yet dropping them off impossible).