UKC

Comfortable rock shoes

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 climb41 15 Sep 2015
Time to replace my red Chili Sausalitos. Searched the forums, but most of the posts on this seem to be a couple of years ago.

I know the best advice is to go to shops and try on lots of shoes, which I will do, but just curious as to what people might recommend.

Trad climbing, Peak, Yorkshire, occasional Lakes and N. Wales. (Not limestone!) Up to about VS/E1. So just want comfy average type shoe, that will cope with full day in the mountains and not cripple me. Probably lace up.

Thoughts?
 climbwhenready 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

I'm very happy with the Mythos....... now that I have a pair where the sole is firmly attached to the shoe (see other thread)!
 planetmarshall 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

My 5.10 guides are the most comfortable rock shoes I've ever had. Easily wearable all day.
 HeMa 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

Millet Hybrid is pretty good for what you're after. Friend climbs Font 7's with them, and a punter like me can get up Norway E2s in them easily. Slightly more comfy than say Mythos, yet more performance. Seems to smear well, fit in finger cracks and really good of wider crags. It also was voted to be the best alpine rock shoe in the market a few years back.

Sportiva TC Pro is another option... albeit slightly less comfy, as the Hybrid has a nice padded heel.

My current favorite is the 5.10 Moccasym, for most full day affairs. More performance, but less comfy. Easily remedied as they are a slipper though (elastic cord as a loop around the ankle and through the front loop makes removing them easy yet dropping them off impossible).
 mp3ferret 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

Another vote for Mythos - I've had many pairs and are like wearing slippers - love them for all day stuff.
 Rob Morgan 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

I recently purchased a pair of Scarpa Techno X shoes which I really like. They are a comfy shoe but still feel like they have a bit of finesse for trickier climbs (and don't just feel like a 'comfy beginner shoe'). I'v also had a few people admiring them at the crag! I know Cotswold Outdoor stock them if you want to try them, but haven't seen them elsewhere yet.
 Andy Hardy 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

Honestly this is going to depend on *your* foot shape.
 johncook 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41: It depends on your feet. I can spend all day in my snug fitting spirit Velcro, but others find them uncomfortable. Try on lots, remember heel fit is also important as it can impinge on your Achilles, and get the shoes that are snug and comfortable. Not an easy job, requires some effort, but it is all down to you and your feet.

 Mr. Lee 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

Try on the Climb X Crush. Cotwold sell it. One of the few shoes that I've tolerated but and with enough precision for the grade I climb. Also cheap.
In reply to climb41:
+1 for Mythos. I bought a pair this summer and find them great for cracks and comfortable for long outings.
 GridNorth 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

5.10 Newtons are quite good and "The Climbers Shop" has them on sale for £59.00 at the moment.

Al
 Kassius 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

Boreal jokers are outstandingly comfortable. I've tried quite a few brands and I wear these all day no problem
OP climb41 15 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:
Hi, thank you to everyone who has posted with suggestions. I will of course be going to various shops and trying lots on, but some great ideas to try from this.

Thank you all.
 Rmb1 16 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

Another vote for Mythos
 MikeStuart 16 Sep 2015
In reply to climb41:

+1 again for the 5.10 (Anasazi) Guides

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