UKC

Advice wanted:

Anyone been into cloggy this week, are the routes dry/seepy/wet?

Should the rain clouds stay away, I was hoping to get up to great bow/longlands this weekend.

Thanks, Alex

In reply to alex pickard:

Was up there at the tail end of last week. Hadn't rained in 4-5 days as far as I'm aware. West buttress was sopping.

In reply to riseabove0835:

Seriously don't waste your time. You need to go three weeks after the start of a heatwave. I went to do great bow a couple of weeks ago and it was greener than a Guardian reader and just as wet.

Ended up doing primitive route as an easy VD - cue five hour epic. Don't let your heart rule your head as you'll regret it.

Indian Face should be ok though....

In reply to radddogg:

That route is horrible isn't it.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Try doing the route next to it, I think it's called Slab Climb Right Hand, I felt lucky to get one piece of gear per pitch with one good piece at each belay, the whole affair felt pretty necky to me. Some bloke happily soloed up behind us and seemed to rather enjoy it, his comment at the top was that I should get on White slab because it's not much harder!

In reply to spenser:

Someone beat us to that, the HS, so we decided to jump on primitive route first before we did slab climb right hand. Yeah, didn't get near it.

Leo Houlding calls it the best crag in the world BUT he is a much better climber than most of us.