UKC

Dear all

Does anyone have latest info on conditions here. Pictures looking like the Colton Mac might go.

No updates here http://www.chamoniarde.com

I understand the descent via Normal route down the backside to Boccalate Hut is being done again after last year's big serac cleave.

Pal and I driving down tomorrow morning. Dollies look alright http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Tre-Cime-di-Lavaredo/forecasts/2973 May head there first.

All sensible answers welcomed haha

Solly

In reply to sollyf:

Latest pics here http://www.refugedeleschaux.com/#!FERMETURE/cx71/55fac5d40cf256c0bf927aca

Looks pretty snowy. The Colton-Mac looks like it could go but it's hard to tell whether it's just stuck on powder or useful stuff. The bergschrund might present an issue as well, after the summer we've had.

I'm far from an authority, never having been on it, so maybe someone else with more Jorasses experience can comment?

In reply to alexm198:

Thanks for your reply Alex.

Yes, I've seen the Leschaux images throughout the year.

Last 5 minutes received the following:

Hello,

We dont' have recent informations.
The refuge is now closed and the guardian said us that the face is realy dry...For sure conditions are not the same than the last year.

Cordialement

L'équipe de l'OHM / La Chamoniarde

I was underneath last year when my partner fell ill. A bivi right underneath was totally doable, but that was last year.

We'll keep an eye on things...

Thanks again

Solly

In reply to sollyf:

Thanks for sharing Solly. That's a bummer. The weather here in Chamonix continues to be pretty unsettled so hopefully the face will come into condition before too long!

In reply to alexm198:

Hey Alex, no prob, when it works, this site is priceless...! You're based in Cham?

If this holds up http://www.accuweather.com/en/fr/chamonix/136573/daily-weather-forecast/136...

Will keep checking OHM and http://chamonix-meteo.com/chamonix-mont-blanc/weather/forecast/morning/5_da...

Possibly next weekend could work.

The Dru another option...

In reply to sollyf:
Basically when Alex and I asked yesterday, the OHM said it's too early for mixed this year. Make of that what you will...

In reply to Misha:

Thanks Misha; depending on experience and relationship to risk....

What are you looking to do?

I'll Update this with any info I might get along the way

In reply to sollyf:
I'd be happy with any classic mixed lines here but in addition to the conditions issues the weather is pretty unstable as well... Hope you get something done.

In reply to Misha:

the n face of the gran paradiso was white ish climable I'd have thought but probably not hero neve...

give the zermatt alpincenter a ring the faces there never melted out in the same way so should be in quicker (maybe!?)

let us know how you get on

In reply to alasdair19:
Going home today but had a good day yesterday on Goulotte des Allemands on the Triangle, which was in good nick. That got me wondering if some of the bigger mixed lines could be in, if you could get to them...

In reply to Misha:

Hey all, thanks for input...we managed to nick comic Dimai on north face of Cima grande before this now bad weather...we're undecided as to Cham or grindelwald..need to check The usual...hope you had a great trip btw. Update in a few days
Cheers

In reply to Misha:
No mixed lines in conditions...hot here now

Going to Look at rock routes around Envers des Aguilles

In reply to sollyf:

What about Jorasses? It must be doable. Matterhorn and Eiger also looking good via webcams. Someones just have to go and try. I'll be in Cham starting from next weeks Thursday. Will report here then.

In reply to JuhoK:

Jorasses although looking doable, apparently not; OHM had no reports of anyone up there and nosing around a few other places revealed the same...summer was too dry and too little snow too late for them to be in at the mo.

Last year's incredible conditions were a result of a very wet summer...26 days rain in July

Ah well, great trip and so the research begins for next year... 1 down, 5 to go!

All the best

Solly

In reply to sollyf:

People have got on the Colton/Mac..

https://www.facebook.com/marion.poitevin/posts/10152660499460342

In reply to charleyradcliffe:

That post's from September 2014 when the world and his wife did it.

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Except us!! My mate became ill...we were standing underneath it and turned back. Good choice!
Nice website btw John

In reply to charleyradcliffe:

Mixed lines not in yet...here's hoping for a very wet 2016 Cham summer...

In reply to sollyf:



Thanks! I've meant to write about doing the colton-mac on there, though it's been a bit too long since now!

Jon Morgan did write about our jolly here: http://rab.equipment/us/community/colton-macintyre/

Hope you get it done, it's mega

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Great write-up and props to Colton Mac!! I'll giver it a share on facey ...very jealous

I hear the Bocallette (word from OHM desk) might reopen next year following the big cleave last year...did you make your way down under the great serac after the cleave?

It's on the radar for sure...let's see what happens

In reply to sollyf:

IIRC it was just a couple of days before it cleaved when we did it... there was some pretty massive debris there though. Didn't feel too fun at the time. Some parties were going down the gully between the serac and pointe whymper (before and after), but you're still not completely out the fall out zone. The descent is definitely BIG and requires concentration.

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Ok..!! We were there at the same time. May have crossed paths around Leschaux or Bocallette. Bivi at the schrund next time as we always loose loads of time negotiating the glacier

Plan to go up normal route to Pt walker; get the descent in current conditions scoped...acclimatisation and moving together dialled.. getting excited already. Ha

In reply to sollyf:

Eugster Direct in fat conditions. Climbed it today. Only the first pitch was dry, but you can climb loose M5 picth instead to get to the couloir. What I said earlier, you just have to go and try.

In reply to sollyf:

Colton-Brooks on the Droites climbed the other day (not by me). Reportedly in not too bad conditions.

In reply to sollyf:

Just bear in mind that all the Cham lifts/trams (bar the Midi) are currently closed.

Montenvers opens again Oct 17, but I think the Grand Montets lift is closed until Nov..

NB: The walks from the valley are loooong.

John C

In reply to JuhoK:

Thanks for the info! Eugster Direct and Colton-Brooks both on the hitlist so I'm now super psyched to get back to Chamonix this week!

In reply to alexm198:

Matterhorn N face also in okey condition. Just follow the tracks. 😉

In reply to JuhoK:

I can'tfind any trip reports of Matterhorn Schmid route!