UKC

Snell's Field, Chamonix - Any memories?

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 Doug 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I started a similar thread a few years ago which links to some photos. There is (was?) a thread on Supertopo as well

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=259502

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I stopped there several times in the 1970s including one protracted stay when we slept in Colin Binks' Escort van for a couple of months. As you say at the start of the season it was fine but the surrounding woods became more and more of a mine-field as the season progressed.
I think we lived on packet soup and noodles for most of the season - surprised we didn't get rickets.
After one wet spell there was a 24hr weather window - we left at midnight, walked up to Montenvers, up the Nantillons Glacier and on up the Spencer Couloir to the summit of the Blatiere. We were back in the campsite for midday - must have been fit once!
(If my memory is correct we had designs on something more challenging but forgot the guidebook - doh!)


Chris
 rif 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Just submitted a photo showing one of the home-made shacks. Most likely 1972 or 1974, but might have been 1976. Older UKCers may be able to identify some of the climbers?
 wilkesley 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Pierre d'Orthaz was actually an official site. He would let you stay for nothing if you looked sufficiently impecunious. There were occasional police raids on Snells when it got too crowded. One year Trevor Pilling and Co pinched the sign from above the gendarmerie. It was a sort of cartwheel sized wooden disc with the PHGM logo on it. The police completely turned over Snells, but the sign was well hidden in the woods.
 Rick Graham 23 Sep 2015
In reply to wilkesley:
> Pierre d'Orthaz was actually an official site. He would let you stay for nothing if you looked sufficiently impecunious.

Nothing!

You did better than us. We only managed to knock him down to half price.

Let Jon Tinker do the negotiations, cos he had the sweetest face

or probably the best French.
Post edited at 12:08
 John Workman 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Spent some of the best times of my lfe there on my first ever Alpine visit in 1970. This must be just about the time when it opened for 'business - by that I refer to the 'thunderbox' that was contructed over the glacial river that runs alongside the site - the outfall from the Mer-de Glace. The previous year my mate was in Cham but stayed at the Biolete?
Hitched over from Cumberland - as it was then, stayed for a couple of months, climbed some of the best routes I've ever done including N Face of Drus, hitched back home -total cost £100!. No travelling or accommodation costs and yes we did supplement our rations by stealing from Supermarkets, after all they were French Supermarkets so it didn't really count. How we came to that conclusion is beyond my 'ken' now some 45 years on. Have photos but not digital you may be surpised to hear. I love those shots of the Blacks Tents, the primative shelters and the youg long haired fellas. Visited again a few years back to find it clean tidy and deserted except for The Boulder. Ah the memories. Still going out in the hills occasionally with Bruce and Phil. Two guys that I met on the trip. The gift that keeps on giving - eh.
 galpinos 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I assume it was called Snell's Field as it was owned by the Snell's? It was (quite) a bit before my time, was it just a field they let alpinists camp in?

My only connection is working for the Corinne and Olivier in the shop for a summer.
 Doug 23 Sep 2015
In reply to galpinos:

I though Snell's owned it but see the thread I linked to
In reply to wilkesley:
> Pierre d'Orthaz was actually an official site. He would let you stay for nothing if you looked sufficiently impecunious.

We only ever managed 'one-up-one-down': two francs a night for the tent, two francs each camper. If you said the magic phrase - to imply you'd be spending half your time bivvying on high - they charged you half price for each climber (but full for the tent). So a night's camping dropped from an outrageous 60p to a more manageable 40p. We, of course, did nothing of the sort and spent each evening blagging beer and food.

This would have been just after the Wall came down and there was a bunch of East German or Polish climbers who worked in an aircraft factory; they were excellent lads, who'd funded the whole trip by flogging titanium ice screws they'd made at work.

Last time I was there, the tent flooded and we came back to find all our clothes floating in water. A Northern English Poly were there with their Student Union minibus, although they were leaving the following morning, so we slept in that. I was so cheesed off, I gave one of their number my bus ticket to London, in exchange for a lift home. He stayed on, and I got delivered to my parents' front door, a trip of about 1200 miles. They even carried in the slabs of beer I'd bought on the ferry.

The only dodgy bit was getting stopped in Geneva. The border guards made for the back of the van, on the off chance that there were drugs on board (there undoubtedly were). One of them opened the door, literally staggered backwards as the smell hit him, slammed the door again and waved us on.


Days gone forever.
Post edited at 15:49
 wilkesley 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Nothing!

> You did better than us. We only managed to knock him down to half price.

My secret weapon was a very young Andy Cave, who looked as though he had been on half rations in Belsen. Being considerably older and not a walking skeleton he wanted to charge me full wack, but never actually collected it from me.

 pneame 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Lots of good memories from 3 summers spent there in the 70s

The Brits had two friends in Chamonix at the time - Snell (it was forbidden to "acquire" gear from there), and Maurice Simond, who owned the Bar National. Same rules:

One time, some australians (I think) were much pleased when they acquired a keg of beer. This was being consumed and (as I recall) PeteMinks enquired where it was from?
On finding out, he was much annoyed and arranged a whip-round. On repairing to the National that evening -
"I hear you may have lost a keg of beer?"
"Yes, it's terrible...."
"Well, we heard about that and raised some money.."
Pete hands over quite a lot of cash - probably enough to cover 2 kegs...
Maurice was very pleased.

Some years later, we were having a beer and some Steak frites on New Years.
"Au revoir, Maurice. Bonne année. Nous departons dans le matin"
"Oh, you must stay for a beer" , and Maurice hands over a round of gratis beers. I can still picture him sorting out change - he was very short sighted, but he could always sort out the money, getting rid of any accidental low value coins that were not related to the French currency in any way.

On another occasion, a group of us were standing around swapping stories and a couple of Spanish chaps wander up.
"You can camp here?"
"Yes, just put your tent in an open spot if you can find one"
"It is free?"
"Yes, but over there you may have to pay" pointing at the the Pierre d"oath campsite.
They seemed pleased.
"Are there thieves here?"
"No, of course not! We're British"
Gales of laughter
The Spanish lads disappeared. We never saw them again.

Wonderful place, but good grief, it was squalid. I used to go to some effort to find a "nice" place in the woods, but always, a few weeks later, little pink, blue and white flowers would appear, reducing the aesthetic appeal somewhat and I'd have to find another spot.

Rick Sylvester, of the James Bond parachute jump in Baffin Island fame once disappeared into the woods and emerged in a state of some excitement, dived into his tent and grabbed a camera and an ice axe (for scale) to properly document an amazing find... It was indeed an impressive log.
In reply to wilkesley:
> Pierre d'Orthaz was actually an official site. He would let you stay for nothing if you looked sufficiently impecunious. There were occasional police raids on Snells when it got too crowded. One year Trevor Pilling and Co pinched the sign from above the gendarmerie. It was a sort of cartwheel sized wooden disc with the PHGM logo on it. The police completely turned over Snells, but the sign was well hidden in the woods.

That was Trevor and me, who took the gendarmerie sign the day before we left Chamonix for home and tied it to the roof rack. Quite nerve racking unscrewing the sign with Trev on my shoulders, I presume we were quite pissed at the time. I have a slide of it and loads of Snell's filed somewhere.
Post edited at 17:53
 Mike C 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I may have a few more photos, one of the ones you link to is mine & one has me in it, hmmm. My memories are more of a wild camp on the other side of Chamonix, below the Bossons Glacier where I spent my first two seasons (79 & 80). On one side was the river & the other was the woods where you marked the "mines" with a tuft of loo paper. Anyone else remember this place?
 Mike C 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Let Jon Tinker do the negotiations, cos he had the sweetest face

He can still put the charm on, quite amazing actually!


 Climbingspike 23 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
1976 the gendarmes took everybodies passport. We all ( 100+people ) had to go to the police station, refuse to sign any forms and demand they return our passports ,which they did. We were then given a site on the other side of Cham, this was between the road to the tunnel and the midi freak, it was free but had even worse conditions. To my knowledge snells field was a football field , the shelter was built from the goal posts. Snell gave use of the field to British climbers, Brown and or Whilans mention it in there books. Although conditions were bad everyone still had Snells blessing to camp there. What the authorities wanted was for everyone to be registered to be staying in the valley and paying tax du jour as is the norm today.
I had five seasons on snells and have many many great memories.

Removed User 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

There is a photo on page six of my gallery of the campsite taken in 1972, together with a few comments. Unfortunately I can't work out how to submit it to this forum.
 Doug 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Climbingspike:

I remember the raid and the alternative site by the road, also the hassle of getting my passport back when I could barely speak French.
astley007 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Christheclimber:

You pair of pikeys!!!
Was it you who removed the road signs from the Manchester Motorways?
 wilkesley 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Christheclimber:

> That was Trevor and me, who took the gendarmerie sign the day before we left Chamonix for home and tied it to the roof rack. Quite nerve racking unscrewing the sign with Trev on my shoulders, I presume we were quite pissed at the time. I have a slide of it and loads of Snell's filed somewhere.

I remember Trev telling me when he had unscrewed it it wouldn't come off, so he head butted it and it fell to earth with a crash. The gendarmerie must have been even more pissed than you two not to have heard it.
 Fruit 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

1892 to about 1986 fantastic times, each July. Packed full of characters, rouges all but true to each other. Memories include, fire breathers, a little guy from scotland who coundn't ever get to the top of mont blanc who peeled himself falling down a glacier without a shirt, Bert from the States who would eventually get fed up of sunshine and mountains and go to Stanage, fights in the town during a world cup, Andy P climbing a dead tree with ice axes so we could fix a rope to it and pull it down. being terrifyingly fit, 'log laying' competition, a fortnight with a beautiful woman, how hot it was on the walk to or from town with a massive sack, putting drinks in the river to cool only for the river to rise and wash them away, rock lifting competitions, bouldering on the Pierre D'orthaz boulder, finding wiggly things in the water from the 'spring' down the track, and more and more and more. On our honeymoon in 91 we dropped in only to find a sign in the middle of the field saying closed, no camping, I kicked it so hard, it must have hurt as I felt a tear come to my eye
In reply to Fruit:

> 1892 to about 1986 fantastic times

Impressive longevity!

1
In reply to astley007:

> You pair of pikeys!!!

> Was it you who removed the road signs from the Manchester Motorways?

No not guilty!


 Red Rover 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

There used to be a cavers version of the Snells field near the Gouffre Berger which is probaly the cavig version of Mont Banc. It got closed years before I was around, they called it the Camp Des Anglaise I wonder if it was a similar scene to Snells.

http://www.plongeesout.com/articles%20publication/historique/berger%201964/...

Still plenty of underground camps though it's done siege style
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7076/7353952536_fcb8efa81b_b.jpg
 wilkesley 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> I think I have just discovered that we never actually stayed in Snell's field. In 1987, the camping was only around the boulder and to the left of where Henriette is standing in the photo below

Snells was just on the opposite side of the track to the boulder between the track and the river, which looks like where you describe it. Snells was definitely still used in 1985/86. I was staying in Pierre d'Orthaz with Andy Cave in 1986, the year he did just about everything in the Alps.

I remember a friend of mine, who was the CPS prosecuting barrister for Hounslow, visiting me and someone trying to sell him some dope! Much amusement all round
Post edited at 19:52
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Surely you're much too skinny to enjoy alpinism Alan?
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

> Surely you're much too skinny to enjoy alpinism Alan?

Correct but it took me a few years to discover this.

I did manage to solo the Frendo Spur for my first route though which has given me a few nightmares since but seemed fine at the time.

Alan
 Rob Exile Ward 24 Sep 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax: I walked to Pierre D'Orthaz the morning I arrived in Cham in 78, and pitched my tent there ; then walked back that afternoon and got a job the same day, with a flat; so walked back again, packed my tent, and walked back to Cham in time for my first evening shift. No wonder I was fit.

Met Cubby by the boulder there, he was drinking bottled water, not at all common at the time. I was torn between thinking 'wow that's cool' and 'what a wimp, when real climbers drink they drink beer.'

But my happiest memory was of some French bronzed superstar turning up with a couple of women in tow. He proceeded to strip off, then spend 20 minutes in a dramatic warm up - unheard of at the time, - before impressively fighting his way up one of the harder problems. We were impressed.

Then two Brits turned up - from Northumberland, IIRC. They looked at what he'd done; shrugged; took their shoes off and effortlessly repeated it barefoot. We were gobsmacked.
 freeheel47 04 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

spent a couple of weeks there summer 1987.

Interesting.

An old French bloke would cycle in mid morning- if it was fine. If the forecast was wrong we'd either run and hide in the woods or hide into event- so as not to pay- although being a bit of a softy I usually did pay. Log laying in th woods very unpleasant.

When we were there, there was a bridge to Camping Mer du Glace- with a fence, barbed wire and a sign in English advising us to 'use the facilities' at our own site- we moved it to the entrance to Pierre d"orthaz.

There was a curious mix of ultra hard climbers from around the world and rather more pedestrian but skint types like me. Still various Polish and Russian climbers complete with gas and ice screws for sale- didn't get any too skint.

I lived off sardines for the fortnight- others tended to liberate food from PPs.
 barbeg 04 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Ah Snells in the '80's......
Some memories:

A girl called Cathy.....
A stolen Denali tent.......
A bottle of Swedish spirit called Fab 69.....
Juggling a hot chicken.....
"Shopping" in PP's with an Alpiniste rucksac...
North Spur of Chardonnet with the one cramponed scouser....
Headband Sam from North Wales......

Brilliant times that I will treasure forever....

ANdy
 Goucho 04 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Ahh, Snells.

A feral cesspit of everything that was great about an alpine season.

And along with the Bar Nash, filled with so many memories of halcyon days of gloriously misspent youth
 Marcus 05 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax: And sneaking into the tennis club for a shower every so often. (Won't say how often!)

 Doug 05 Oct 2015
In reply to Marcus:

Anyone else remember the Douches municipal in Chamonix ? with signs (only in English) saying that it was forbidden to wash clothes in the shower.

Do they still exist ?
 BDR 05 Oct 2015
In reply to Doug:
No, they're long gone. Two francs for a shower and laundry session, as long as the woman didn't suss you out (big, full rucksack being the giveaway)... Last time I used them would have been mid eighties, I think.
 jon 05 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Dress it up with all the nostalgia you want, it was a shithole!
lostcat 05 Oct 2015
In reply to jon:

Indeed. I stayed there in the late 1970's with my parents and brother. I was about 8, bro would of been 3. My mum and brother got very, very ill! Years or even decades later when mum and dad were having a bit of a 'disagreement' she would sometimes say "well what about the time you made us stay in that f*cking Snell's field!" I can still remember the looks of horror on my mates very straight, chapel going parents faces when I told them that we had to shit in the woods.
 Goucho 05 Oct 2015
In reply to jon:

> Dress it up with all the nostalgia you want, it was a shithole!

Eye, but it wer our shithole
 Null 06 Oct 2015

Snells was the Woodstock of mountaineering - life changing and unrepeatable


 Guy 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I think it was 1987 when I was there. Some very strange characters! I seem to remember a bloke who everyone called Cosmic Cliff, used to shuffle around the site in a pair of Koflach inner boots and slept under a tarp. It may have been a Snells field story but I think he got his name as he was supposedly off his head in the Argentiere winter hut and wouldn't let anyone else in whilst he waited for his spaceship to come and pick him up.

We got raided a couple of times by the police who removed all the plastic furniture liberated from up at Montenvers and other places.

It was our first alpine summer and as usual got painfully little done!
 jon 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Guy:

> I seem to remember a bloke who everyone called Cosmic Cliff (...) I think he got his name as he was supposedly off his head in the Argentiere winter hut and wouldn't let anyone else in whilst he waited for his spaceship to come and pick him up.

Ah, that sounds like Cliff Phillips...
 Guy 06 Oct 2015
In reply to jon:

Is he still with us? He sounded a bit necky when it came to his climbing style.
 jon 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Guy:

I don't know.
 John2 06 Oct 2015
In reply to jon:

I last saw him about 5 years ago - he could often be found in the Vaynol.
 Goucho 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Guy:

> Is he still with us? He sounded a bit necky when it came to his climbing style.

He fell 200' off Dinas Mot once while soloing, then limped back down to his car and drove himself to Bangor Hospital IIRC?

 Guy 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Goucho:

I remember that story, didn't know it was him, doesn't surprise me.
 pneame 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Guy:

The man who solos his own rescues....

Still ticking in 2010 according to Leo Dickinson:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1129140&tn=40
In reply to Guy:

He was still alive in 2013 when I worked in a climbing shop in North wales.
 Rob Exile Ward 07 Oct 2015
In reply to jon: Ah Cliff Philiips... Did the Amone slab with him until we got caught in a rainstorm near the top, and had to escape by doing a diagonal abseil from a hand placed peg in a diagonal crack. On the way back we were all skint but Cliff seemed to 'find' some large Toblerone bars from somewhere despite having no money. Most mysterious.

I also started my new rack with gear that Cliff - ahem - sourced, and supplied at bargain rates, unfortunately it was all rubbish; when I got him Jonny Woodward took one look and pointed out all the engineering design flaws.

 Fruit 13 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

The first time we stayed there in '82 I'd booked onto a proper campsite, when my mates arrived a few days later I was deep into the realisation that i'd committed about a quarter of the money I had for the summer on a few night's camping in the wrong place. I hit upon a cunning plan and had my friends steal my tent from the camp site with all my gear 'and money' then moved camp. I will now go to hell, no?

I never nicked from shops though I did briefly date a blonde checkout assistant from PPs
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
There was this south African climber in'89 who was obsessed with doing the American direct on the Dru, he had lovingly hand crafted some jamming gloves specifically for this purpose, problem was he was an incredibly slow climber with only single pitch cragging experience, we gleefully introduced him to cosmic cliff, who offered to guide him up it for quite a sum, the south African AKA "the space cadet" was not impressed, we were convinced that not unlike cosmic, his mission was to reach the jammed block for a return to the mothership.
Post edited at 18:28
 uphillnow 14 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Yes I have a picture but not very good. Stayed there a lot through the 70's and later. NOW going back into the 60's I recall a REALLY crappy site closer into Cham, long since redeveloped and covered in buildings that was rough. I think it was called the Bealay (spelling escapes me, dont speak French but no doubt someone can correct this). There was a cafe of the same name next to it as I recall. This site made the later Snells Field look like a dream! Not a lot of cover so that if you needed a crap it was more public. I wont get further into "when I was a lad we lived in a shoe box.....". Anyone else recall this - I used it from perhaps 1963
 John2 14 Oct 2015
In reply to uphillnow:

Biollay?
 uphillnow 14 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Yes John that might be it. It was quite small, and very close into the then town, and on the same side of the road as Snells. There was an outdoor swimming pool not far from it. All of this area was developed and built up decades ago. In the season it was very overcrowded and there were no toilets or as I recall water. I think we carried water back from a tap in the town - by the railway station? I may be wrong but I think Terry Tailor and Greg were also users and there are friends of mine who were with me and might recall more details. It was like Snells Field but because it was smaller and more of a bit of waste ground it was not a great place to stay. There were other wild camp sites over the years including one close to the Golf Club - where I certainly was thrown off by the police.
 steveB 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Climbingspike:

Was out there myself in 76 and well remember that dawn raid and having to go round to the Gendarmerie later in the day to beg for our passports back! Seem to remember taking a drunken dip in the river on some one's stolen beat up motorcycle too one night-the river was rather high after so much rain that summer too.
 Al Evans 23 Oct 2015
In reply to steveB:

A Classic article in Crags Four is 'What I Did On My Holidays' by John Sheard, all about climbing on'Pierre d' Orthaz.
 rocksol 23 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Fantastic memories of Pierre D,Ortaz. Snells was across the road by the river and camping stopped there before 1975.
We quite often used to arrive back there after some epic absolutely trashed. It was also amazing how you would meet up with someone you didn,t know and agree to go off on some ED that was at the cutting edge. Wouldn,t do that now. Couldn,t!!
I often go there to reminisce and boulder, as we have a place in Les Praz.
I remember one year skiing down the couloir above the boulder and the snow was so deep we could ski onto the top. I said to Rory Gregory " that,s the first time you,ve made it to the top of the boulder". Reply unprintable !!
Happy days
 Doug 23 Oct 2015
In reply to rocksol:

But I remember camping by the river in both 1976 & 1980 so can't have been closed in 1975. Although it was frequently (?) closed temporarily, as in 1976 when we all evicted & had our passports confiscated for a few days (always wondered if that was legal but it was about 6 in the morning & the gendarme was armed)
 Rick Graham 23 Oct 2015
In reply to Doug:

Impressive memory, Doug. Think that is about right.

The last time I camped on the boulder side was 1988.

Occasionally folk would set up on Snells and we would wonder how long they would get away with it. Usually only a couple of nights.
 Lesdavmor 23 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
In 1976 Steve Blake & me staggered back to Snell's to crash out after an impromptu bivi after doing the BW on the Dru W face( thanks to a slow French rope of 3). We were really knackered but were just in time to see what the gendarmes were up to & managed to slip off with our passports. There was a quite eclectic mix of climbers in residence at that time.


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