UKC

So heading up to Glencoe this weekend, looks like the weather will be dry but I imagine the rock will be seeping from rain on Thursday/Friday. Looking for recommendations for must do routes in the grade range V-diff to HVS, would particularly like to know about any good multi-pitch VS/HVS routes that will be more likely to be dry or at least doable when wet.

Thanks,

Stephen

In reply to Stephen Beard:

I thought The Chasm must be excellent in wet. On a more serious note, Aonach Dubh is probably a decent choice if it is wet as it is less committing. Basically 1/2 pitch routes. I have done Spider Right-Hand (VS 4c) and my partner thought it was a brilliant route. I wasn't so sure as it didn't feel right (no pun intended), but now I would say that it was a decent route and actually quite good.

In reply to Stephen Beard:

Rannoch Wall dries very quickly. Grooved Arete is superb VS, Line Up good HVS. Not multi-pitch, but If climbing to the summit, May Crack, VS 5a on Great Gully Upper Buttress is stunning single pitch & well worth seeking out. Lots great routes on Buachaille at these grades.

In reply to Stephen Beard:
Here are a few that might be good for you.

Bludgers Revelation (HVS 5a) - Slow to dry but was done last weekend.
May Crack (Summer) (VS 5a) - Brilliant pitch on upper great gully buttress.
June Crack (Summer) (VS 4c) - Good for getting up to May Crack.
Spider Right-Hand (VS 4c)
The Long Crack (S) - Great wee route. Amazing rock.
January Jigsaw (Summer) (S)
Agag's Groove (Summer) (VD)

If it rains a good option is North Buttress - West Route (Summer) (M). Did it in the pissing rain with 6 friends a few years ago. Great day out!

In reply to Stephen Beard:

There were folk climbing Hammer and Spartan Slabs on Etive Slabs last Saturday.

In reply to Stephen Beard:

Get up to the Buachaille. Things like Dingle (HVS) and Hangman's Crack (VS) are great single pitch routes if Rannoch Wall is busy.

In reply to Stephen Beard:

Agag's Groove goes in the wet and is one of the best VDiffs in Glen Coe.

In reply to Stephen Beard:

I'd take Rannoch Wall and the East Face of North Buttress over East Face Aonach Dubh for quick drying.

In reply to Stephen Beard:
If you want a laugh and a crazy day out, both the Chasm and Clachaig gully are doable in the wet, but you will get absolutely soaked and will need a place to dry out overnight. Expect a hilarious day if you don't mind getting wet but take more care as usual in the wet. I really liked the other classic rock link up of the north face route and Agag's Groove, much easier than vs-hvs but definitely doable in the wet. If you do go to Aonach Dubh, Eve's arête is also very good with a great second pitch and a neat little thread the last time I did it. Spider is great on that steep wall, the only Jimmy Marshall route I've done, but I found it a bit of a one move wonder for the grade. Glen Coe is great, so much so we named our house after it!! Have a great time. Oh, for an edit, just thought of Garbh bheinn and Excalibur, amazing route and remote experience but long walk in (and you will hear red deer stags beginning their roaring season); and a ferry to start the day over to Ardgour. Scotland at it's best, if you do this I will be very jealous for you getting this at this time of year.

Tom

In reply to Stephen Beard:

Wait a minute, your profile says you're in Fort Bill. Heading up to Glen Coe this weekend suggests you've moved. Are you like me and didn't get much done whilst you were there?

In reply to the abmmc:

Thanks for all the responses!, really useful for my planning. Yes Abmmc I was based in Fort William but moved to Edinburgh recently as I got very little done in the Fort. Manage far more climbing now I'm based in Edinburgh, just easier to find partners and to chase the good weather