UKC

I'm heading down to Portland for a weekend of sunny sport. I've never been there before, and while I've been reading through the Rockfax guidebook I'm aware that there have been a few landscape changes. Which areas should be avoided, or just plain aren't there any more?

I climb anything between 5+ and 6b+, so recommendations of areas with several really good routes in the 6a-6b+ range would also be welcome.

In reply to Paul Baxter:
The recent landslips haven't been in climbing areas, so no worries there. The main change from a couple of winters back is the approach paths to Blacknor Far South & Battleship areas have changed from those shown in the Rockfax book. Check the UKC database pages for these areas for up to date approach info.
Cheyne Cliff on the East side is also best avoided as some of that fell down recently.

In reply to Paul Baxter:

Use both sides of the isle depending on the wind direction. I recommend these areas for a first visit:
West Side (afternoon sun):
Blacknor Central (big, long routes). 'Slings Shot' 5+ and 'Shit Happens' 6a
Blacknor South / Fallen Slab ('Fallen Slab Arete' 3+ is a classic easy route).
Veranda / Battleship Slab / Back Cliff.
East side (morning sun):
The Cuttings (apart from the polished routes down the slope). 'Opus' 5, 'Winter Sun' 6a and 'Time out of Mind' 5
The Lost Valley and Dungecroft Quarry (different sides of same car park). Short, easy routes.
Neddyfields & Godnor areas.

Hope that helps

In reply to Adam Perrett:

Thanks, that's really helpful. It looks like a steady easterly breeze all weekend, so the west side might be preferred. If I go looking for morning sun, are the Cuttings as effected by the wind seeing as they're not right on the coast?

I'll check our the updated approach paths - I often fins the approaches to climbs require more psych than the climbs themselves (I'm looking at you, Sirius on Coastguard Crag) so getting clear routs beforehand helps a lot.

To get to Battleship you have to walk a bit south from the point shown in Rockfax book. The path down starts at 50.532692 -2.4539812. It's a bit steep and get's you on the top of Veranda. Last time I was there it had a rope with knots to help getting around.

In reply to Paul Baxter:

The wind is nowhere near strong enough to be a problem at the Cuttings, plus its a two minute walk in so entirely feasible to climb at the cuttings in the morning and then move to the west coast in the afternoon. Cuttings will have sun until around 2pm

If you can handle the walk then I would recommend Pregnant Pause (6a+) on Blacknor Central, best climb at the grade on the island, its unfortunate that it sits pretty much on it's own, a fair walk from Blacknor North or South.

In reply to Dandan:

That looks like a great climb - I'll see if I can borrow a 60m rope for it as my 50 won't quite do...

In reply to Paul Baxter:
You can scramble up to a ledge with a belay staple slightly right of the route and climb pregnant pause on a 50m rope - 50m is too short from the path though, so take care.
Nearby Go With the Flow (6a) is another great route. I put this ticklist of the best Portland routes at F5 - F6a+ together a while ago which may be of interest:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=497

In reply to Paul Baxter:
I would definitely go to the Blacknor cliffs at the grades you're operating at if the weather is at all feasible for them. Reptile Smile and Slings Shot both brilliant climbs at 6aish - all the climbs round there are good. Further along Shit Happens is also a good fun route that feels big.

I really like the Cuttings but think it's a bit of an acquired taste. Don't be tempted by the prevalence of green and orange spots at the left edge of the crag - they are polished overused routes and universally terrible. Routes that I think are ok/good at the crag at your grades are The Sod (harder than given grade), Little Sod, Hillman the Hunter, Brief Encounter (V2 to get off the ground), Consomme (very good), and Rusty the Red Neck. The climbs on the bottom deck are OK too.

In reply to Paul Baxter:

And on a related note, is there anywhere on the island where you can pick up a copy of the guidebook?

Cheers!

In reply to Ramblin dave:

They had guide books here last year: http://www.puravidaweymouthwatersports.co.uk/

Its on the beach road just after you come over ferry bridge on the left.

They also might still sell guidebooks at Whitestones Cafe in Easton but I'm not certain of that.

In reply to RockSteady:

Thanks for the advice. Spent Saturday at Blacknor and did both Reptile Smiles and Shit Happens (and When This Hits The Fan but with several rests). Also the wonderful Apfelstrudel (not flowstone like the others around it but a great thinking climb anyway).

Spent Sunday at Godnor North which was also great although the grading at the lower grades seems a bit hit and miss.

I'll be back for sure - I never mad it as far round as Pregnant Pause and Monsoon Malebar, so they're now on the To Do list.