UKC

Just like the title says. Doesn't matter where in the county, just needs to be a fine selection in those grades for a grand day out on Sunday. Fangs a lot.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Have you ever heard of Almscliff?

In reply to Frank the Husky:

For VS Ilkley, especially the quarry. Almscliffe is excellent too but grades may feel a bit stiff if you're not used to rounded cracks. Brimham has loads of stuff but, again, can feel a bit stiff till you get used to the style and elephant's bum finishes

In reply to Frank the Husky:

The 'cliff is one the best single pitch venues in the UK for HVS, Overhanging Groove, Great Western, Demon Wall etc. and the VSs feel like E1 to a bumbly like me so you'll be very happy there

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Have you been to Crookrise? Loads of stars in the VS-E1 range: Crease, Hovis, Old Lace, the Sole just off the top of my head. The Shelf is fun too (E2 but I expect you'll manage!).

It's more of a connoisseur's crag than Almscliffe.

Eastby is nice too: Swastika, the Padder, Whaup Edge et al. A bit delicate and bold - just your sort of thing. Pillar Front as well of course, which also now seems to be E2 for some reason (easier than the Padder) but it's steady and a brilliant route.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Indeed. I thought about the cliff, but as I've done everything there under E5 several times I wanted to go somewhere new which I should have made clear. Eastby sounds like it might be up my street so another bit of good asdvice from Davey G.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Chevin Buttress
Just enough for a decent'ish day.

In reply to Frank the Husky:


My experience of Yorkshire grit is that Almscliff is the only place to go with multiple quality routes in the mid grades. Unless you're popping out to do a specific route/s (like Padder and Pillar Front at Eastby - lovely), I've found every other crag utterly disappointing. That's not to say they're not brilliant crags for bouldering, but the routes in general suck balls with just the odd, very widely scattered gem (about 1 every 20 miles).

In reply to Jon Stewart: Fair enough. I'd looked through the guides before posting this and came to roughly the same conclusion. Maybe it's back to the cliff! At least I know all the good cafs and pubs nearby, so it's not all bad.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

For some reason I've never been to Hep Quarry, but that's got some big chunky routes at around HVS, rather than the dysfunctional little ankle-breaking scrittlefests that make up the rest of the county's offerings.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
I noticed that lots of the VS/HVS/E1s that were routes during my Leeds days are now listed as boulder problems. I guess that supports everything you say.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Heptonstall

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Burbage South!

In reply to Fredt: Very Good. Give that man an ice cream. You're absolutely right but in the end we went to Almscliffe and realised that everything on Eastern Grit is overgraded. Hot & buttery crumpets in Otley before climbing and beers afterwards - a magnificent day with nearly ten routes in the bag. Thanks all.

In reply to Fredt: Very Good. Give that man an ice cream. You're right of course, but in the end we went to Almscliffe and realised yet again that every route on Eastern Grit is competely overgraded. The hot buttery crumpets in Otley beforehand had nothing to do with anything. Nearly ten routes in the bag and plenty of other entertainment on a beautiful day - thanks everyone.

In reply to Frank the Husky:


You can say that again!