UKC

Been climbing 2 times a week for about 6 months, nearly all indoors. I climb walls once a week and boulder once a week as well. I normally just climb until my gf/ partner gets tired after about an hour and a half, and I boulder for about the same time.

Last Sunday, I went bouldering and I did actually do a few problems that I havn¡¦t been able to do before, but it didn¡¦t feel much more strenuous then it normally does. Apart from the usual soreness straight after bouldering, there was nothing unsusal.

The next day I woke up, grabbed my duvet off with my left hand and felt a painfull twinge. It¡¦s just my left hand. Every now and again, when it gets stressed (picking something up, or pulling my jeans up etc) it gives me the same twinge. I can¡¦t really locate the pain to a particular point ¡V it feels as if its spread across the top half of the palm that meets the fingers, and the bottom half of the fingers.

Has anyone had this? How long does it take to heal? Wanted to climb tomorrow ƒ¼

In reply to tinytom:

hard to say but probably stressed out some of the ligaments that support the tendons, Ive done it a few times and it can be sore for a while.
My suggestion would be not to climb tomorrow or if you must, then do easy climbs otherwise you could worsen the damage or at the least it will take longer to heal.
Ive found I tend to injure my hands more often indoors than out as I usually do harder grades indoors and have less time to rest between climbs.

In reply to Pesda potato:

That sounds like it could be that. It is a lot better today, but still not 100%. I think I will give it a go, but the second it hurts I will stop.

Thanks

In reply to tinytom:

http://www.dupuytrens.me.uk/assets/Hand-Anatomy.jpg

I like looking at anatomy, helps me relate whats wrong then it puts my mind at ease

In reply to tinytom:
Sooo... I went climbing on the Thursday. It didn't hurt at all. I started off on some easier 5s and a 5+ with no pain at all. So I decided I'd go for a 6a and a 6b with smaller holds which is my climbing limit. It didn't hurt at all really. I went bouldering again on Saturday and it was fine. Both my hands hurt afterwards but I thought it was just the usual after climbing. Aka. Just feels a but sore to open and close fist.

But yesterday and today when I woke up, I have the same twinning feeling in my left hand. It's when I grab something, like pulling the duvet off or pulling clothes out of the washing machine (specific, I know ) it doesn't really hurt to hang off them say on a door architrave. it seems, that it's in the morning when it hurts and tends to wear off as the day goes by which is confusing. But this may just be in my mind...

Anyway, I'm just going to rest it. I was planning on going tomorrow, but if it hurts tomorrow morning then I'll leave it and maybe rest it untill Sunday. Il post what happens incase anyone else ever has the same type of thing.

One thing that does come to mind is that when I first got into climbing about 6,7 months ago I looked into a fingerboard (I tend to dive into new hobbies) but after some looking on the forum I got the idea that it can induce finger injury to new climbers because of the intensity so decided not to. Thanks forum. But my point is that I've been bouldering pretty hard at least once a week mostly twice a week, with a climb as well so I'm wondering if that's too intense. Oh well we'll see

In reply to tinytom:

Hi tinytom

A few bits of advice:

Drink a bit more water after excercise.
Do your finger/hand/forearm stretches.

What is most likely happening is your body is adjusting to the demands of the sport and you may need to back off crimping a bit to avoid injury, experiment with open hand climbing and dragging on holds instead.

Top tip: If you share your bed with someone else, ask them to check your sleeping hand position. If your hands are clenched hard its likely you need to work on relaxing the forearm muscles which are tight from climbing.

There are a couple of good ways to help release the forearm muscles.
- stretching
- voodoo flossbands (yes this is a legitimate term, google it)
- if you go to a gym that has one of those "power plates" aka a vibrating plate. Perform your stretching and range of motion actions with the forearm muscles pressed against the muscle. Try different angles to get the front, back and side. You can also rest a broom pole/cable machine handle on the plate and roll your forearm back and forth to get a good massage.

In reply to tinytom:

Or you could try something really left field like going to see a doctor. Long shot, I know, but it might just work.

Seriously, swapping diagnoses on here with people who may or may not have the same problem or perhaps just something that sounds similar but requires a completely different treatment is asking for trouble. Get it looked at and get it sorted before it becomes a chronic condition. Since climbing seems to aggravate it, I'd also give it a rest until you've had it checked out.

In reply to Wiley Coyote:

Thanks WC

I think I'm going to rest it for a while, and if it does carry on then I will see a doctor.

Alx, if it does get better and I start climbing again soon then I will work on your advice. Even if it is not specific to my injury, drinking water after exercise and stretching muscles can't be a bad thing!

In reply to tinytom:

Hi Tom,

be very careful here - without a proper consultation you cannot be sure. It is serious if you get it wrong because:

if its ligament damage you need rest it
if its tendon damage or strain, you need to drop intensity but keep working it

it sounds to me like you have strained the flexor tendon (I am not a doctor or a physio specialist). I would suggest getting a metolious squeeze ball thing and using it lightly. At this time, I'd say you have no major problem

Complete rest will cause the tendon degenerate, eventually feel better, then as soon as you start again, it will flare up just as bad

In reply to tinytom:

also, stretch those fingers before you climb.
A stressball & an elastic band also works if you don't wanna buy the metolious hand thing