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Heading up to try the ridge sometime between Thursday-Sunday on a 2 day-er. Got a 35m rope, and some approach shoes.
We're hoping to solo as much of it as possible and take loads of water as i'm aware that's a common cause for failure. Though it hopefully won't be as hot now that it's October!
Read a few articles and forum posts on here. Just after any other little hints and tips i may have missed.
We're hoping to solo as much of it as possible and take loads of water as i'm aware that's a common cause for failure. Though it hopefully won't be as hot now that it's October!
Read a few articles and forum posts on here. Just after any other little hints and tips i may have missed.
In reply to CharlieMack:
The problem we had this year was the weather. The forcasts are so hard for that ridge as the weather can be different on there to lowland. Theres a rockfax download here that was excellent.
http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/miniguides/skye-ridge/
That guide had escapes and watering holes marked as well as all the climby bits.
This is also good>
http://skyeguides.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2007_Ridge_Download.pdf
The walk in from the camp site to the southern point is very long and gruelling considering its a walk in. If the wind and conditions are harsh up there it's draining. Weight is everything and water/food will be another big consideration. The odds are only 1 in 10 make the challenge. I'd say most of thats down to weather.
The problem we had this year was the weather. The forcasts are so hard for that ridge as the weather can be different on there to lowland. Theres a rockfax download here that was excellent.
http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/miniguides/skye-ridge/
That guide had escapes and watering holes marked as well as all the climby bits.
This is also good>
http://skyeguides.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2007_Ridge_Download.pdf
The walk in from the camp site to the southern point is very long and gruelling considering its a walk in. If the wind and conditions are harsh up there it's draining. Weight is everything and water/food will be another big consideration. The odds are only 1 in 10 make the challenge. I'd say most of thats down to weather.
In reply to CharlieMack:
We took a 30 ish meter rope which was fine for all of the climbing apart from the ab off the In Pinn. If you're planning on soloing a lot of the ridge then you will be able to downclimb the in pinn and possibly have a back rope when going down the very bottom of it. Someone might have an accurate measurement of rope length needed to ab off but i know we didnt have enough. Luckily there was a party there doing the in pinn so we jumped on their ropes.
Water is the main thing, navigating and endurance. The rock fax quide mentioned is excellent. i know someone who followed it verbatim and managed it.
Enjoy, it's a great experience,
Centurion05
We took a 30 ish meter rope which was fine for all of the climbing apart from the ab off the In Pinn. If you're planning on soloing a lot of the ridge then you will be able to downclimb the in pinn and possibly have a back rope when going down the very bottom of it. Someone might have an accurate measurement of rope length needed to ab off but i know we didnt have enough. Luckily there was a party there doing the in pinn so we jumped on their ropes.
Water is the main thing, navigating and endurance. The rock fax quide mentioned is excellent. i know someone who followed it verbatim and managed it.
Enjoy, it's a great experience,
Centurion05
In reply to CharlieMack:
If I remember correctly a 35m lightweight rope will get you down off the Inn Pinn, TD gap etc and certainly up any of the obstacles. Your problem in October is almost certainly going to be the weather as it's often the windiest and wildest month of the year. I spend half term there each October and I can't remember a settled week.There are exceptions to the rule of course so good luck!
For the walk-in, far better than the coastal slog is to approach via Coire a Ghrundda (sp?) and stash your packs on the ridge while you bag the southernmost peaks in less than an hour's sortie.
if the weather isn't helpful simply moderate your ambition. The classic coire rounds are all much more enjoyable taken at a leisurely pace than fighting the clock and exhaustion on the full traverse
If I remember correctly a 35m lightweight rope will get you down off the Inn Pinn, TD gap etc and certainly up any of the obstacles. Your problem in October is almost certainly going to be the weather as it's often the windiest and wildest month of the year. I spend half term there each October and I can't remember a settled week.There are exceptions to the rule of course so good luck!
For the walk-in, far better than the coastal slog is to approach via Coire a Ghrundda (sp?) and stash your packs on the ridge while you bag the southernmost peaks in less than an hour's sortie.
if the weather isn't helpful simply moderate your ambition. The classic coire rounds are all much more enjoyable taken at a leisurely pace than fighting the clock and exhaustion on the full traverse
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In reply to BnB:
think mine is 35 or 37, always touch down with a little to spare. 30m must have been very close to the ground though.
never done it any other way from glenbrittle. Heading along the ridge only to come back again seem less enjoyable, but it's much better than slogging along the flanks at low level and more energy efficient. (imho).
> If I remember correctly a 35m lightweight rope will get you down off the Inn Pinn,
think mine is 35 or 37, always touch down with a little to spare. 30m must have been very close to the ground though.
> For the walk-in, far better than the coastal slog is to approach via Coire a Ghrundda (sp?) and stash your packs on the ridge while you bag the southernmost peaks in less than an hour's sortie.
never done it any other way from glenbrittle. Heading along the ridge only to come back again seem less enjoyable, but it's much better than slogging along the flanks at low level and more energy efficient. (imho).
In reply to CharlieMack:
I agree weather, water, navigation and endurance are the main factors.
We had an ordinary 45m 10mm climbing rope which was fine for the abs. Getting in and out of our harness was a bind for the abs and we eventually just kept them on even though mine was a bit awkward to walk in - due to perishing leg loop elastic! I should have bought a new harness before the traverse.
Even a slight cloud covering of the ridge itself greatly increases the navigation difficulties, besides plenty of water - we only took 2 litres each which was no where near enough leaving us seriously dehydrated when we finally reached the end - take a drinking straw each so that you can reach water in crevices deep on the rock.
Navigation in anything other than totally clear weather can be really hard because there are so many subsidiary ridges which turn out to be "blind alleys". The map is over complicated and difficult to read, and a magnetic compass doesn't work accurately.
As for endurance - it's grueling terrain. As olddirtydoggy said even the approach from the camp site to the southern start is a slog, and you haven't even started! Similarly the descent from the top of Sgurr nan Gillian to Sligachan seems endless, particularly in the dark when you are knackered from the Ridge Traverse.
But it's all worth it, and the best ridge walk in Britain. Good luck! The sense of achievement is huge
I agree weather, water, navigation and endurance are the main factors.
We had an ordinary 45m 10mm climbing rope which was fine for the abs. Getting in and out of our harness was a bind for the abs and we eventually just kept them on even though mine was a bit awkward to walk in - due to perishing leg loop elastic! I should have bought a new harness before the traverse.
Even a slight cloud covering of the ridge itself greatly increases the navigation difficulties, besides plenty of water - we only took 2 litres each which was no where near enough leaving us seriously dehydrated when we finally reached the end - take a drinking straw each so that you can reach water in crevices deep on the rock.
Navigation in anything other than totally clear weather can be really hard because there are so many subsidiary ridges which turn out to be "blind alleys". The map is over complicated and difficult to read, and a magnetic compass doesn't work accurately.
As for endurance - it's grueling terrain. As olddirtydoggy said even the approach from the camp site to the southern start is a slog, and you haven't even started! Similarly the descent from the top of Sgurr nan Gillian to Sligachan seems endless, particularly in the dark when you are knackered from the Ridge Traverse.
But it's all worth it, and the best ridge walk in Britain. Good luck! The sense of achievement is huge
Post edited at 08:04
In reply to CharlieMack:
We did it in a day on our first attempt earlier this year for my mates stag do. Main advice would be to keep weight down as much as possible, don't underestimate the TD gap, it was really quite intimidating (Although easy) and watch as many videos/look at loads of pictures of the tricky to navigate sections.
We used slings as harnesses and took a 17m 8mm rope plus a 2mm tag line to ab with which was perfect! Used a tiny Osprey cycling pack with a 3 litre reservoir which worked well.
Started at Glen Brittle, the yomp up to Gars Bheinn is a bastard but it's by far the hardest part, after that it's just great fun scrambling... would be grim/sketchy in the wet?!
We did it in a day on our first attempt earlier this year for my mates stag do. Main advice would be to keep weight down as much as possible, don't underestimate the TD gap, it was really quite intimidating (Although easy) and watch as many videos/look at loads of pictures of the tricky to navigate sections.
We used slings as harnesses and took a 17m 8mm rope plus a 2mm tag line to ab with which was perfect! Used a tiny Osprey cycling pack with a 3 litre reservoir which worked well.
Started at Glen Brittle, the yomp up to Gars Bheinn is a bastard but it's by far the hardest part, after that it's just great fun scrambling... would be grim/sketchy in the wet?!
Post edited at 09:00
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In reply to CharlieMack:
If your weather window is tight, say an afternoon and a nice day, then consider heading up in the afternoon, dumping your stuff in Coire a Ghrunnda and bagging the southern bit down to Gars Bheinn and back in the afternoon / evening - doesn't take too long and it's easy. Then bivvy in the Coire (there's water there) get up early, leave all your bivvy stuff and do the rest of the ridge the next day.
Having said that you're going to be tight on daylight at this time of year (about 11 hours?) and you won't want to be doing the last bit of the ridge for the first time by headtorch!
If your weather window is tight, say an afternoon and a nice day, then consider heading up in the afternoon, dumping your stuff in Coire a Ghrunnda and bagging the southern bit down to Gars Bheinn and back in the afternoon / evening - doesn't take too long and it's easy. Then bivvy in the Coire (there's water there) get up early, leave all your bivvy stuff and do the rest of the ridge the next day.
Having said that you're going to be tight on daylight at this time of year (about 11 hours?) and you won't want to be doing the last bit of the ridge for the first time by headtorch!
In reply to CharlieMack:
It's going to be a long cold bivi in October.
I managed on 3 litres of water over 1.5 days in a cool June.
I'd say lack of day light hours and the cold in the night (depending on size of sleeping bag) are going to be your biggest problems, if the weather is ok.
I did it in June leaving the Glen B campsite at 4pm and climbing until 10pm (Sgurr Alistair).
Second day, 5am until 9:15pm (back at the Slig Hotel)
With the lack of light in October I'd say, to give yourself the best chance, you'll want to make the most of available light on the first day with an alpine pre-dawn walk-in. We pitched the climbs, soloing will be faster but you'll not benefit from the enforced rests that belaying provides.
It's going to be a long cold bivi in October.
I managed on 3 litres of water over 1.5 days in a cool June.
I'd say lack of day light hours and the cold in the night (depending on size of sleeping bag) are going to be your biggest problems, if the weather is ok.
I did it in June leaving the Glen B campsite at 4pm and climbing until 10pm (Sgurr Alistair).
Second day, 5am until 9:15pm (back at the Slig Hotel)
With the lack of light in October I'd say, to give yourself the best chance, you'll want to make the most of available light on the first day with an alpine pre-dawn walk-in. We pitched the climbs, soloing will be faster but you'll not benefit from the enforced rests that belaying provides.
Post edited at 09:32
In reply to RyanOsborne:
>"leave all your bivvy stuff and do the rest of the ridge the next day"
A good plan to get it done. The third day, going to collect your gear however will be torture.
>"leave all your bivvy stuff and do the rest of the ridge the next day"
A good plan to get it done. The third day, going to collect your gear however will be torture.
Post edited at 09:40
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In reply to CharlieMack:
What is the best recommended bivi spot, and how long roughly does it take to walk in to stash kit? It's looking like the Friday is going to be wet, so planning on using it to stash kit and do a bit of a reccie. Ready for a Sat-Sun attempt
Wonder if we'll see anyone else up there...
What is the best recommended bivi spot, and how long roughly does it take to walk in to stash kit? It's looking like the Friday is going to be wet, so planning on using it to stash kit and do a bit of a reccie. Ready for a Sat-Sun attempt
Wonder if we'll see anyone else up there...
In reply to CharlieMack:
We bivvied just after An Dorus, on the Mhadaidh side. There are some flattish spots that have been cleared, and it's not too far down the gully if you need water, (though you'd have carried it up of course if you stash). We were lucky enough to have some pals who came up and met us.
I know the ridge well, and had/have climbed pretty much all of it a good few times, but we still took two 8hr days. No point rushing it imho, as you wouldn't remember the end through exhaustion, and that's a shame.
And don't miss bits like An Stac and Bidean out, as it feels like half job, let alone the Gap.
Good luck....the weather doesn't look too bad so far. I am in Torridon, so I'll wave from Liathach
We bivvied just after An Dorus, on the Mhadaidh side. There are some flattish spots that have been cleared, and it's not too far down the gully if you need water, (though you'd have carried it up of course if you stash). We were lucky enough to have some pals who came up and met us.
I know the ridge well, and had/have climbed pretty much all of it a good few times, but we still took two 8hr days. No point rushing it imho, as you wouldn't remember the end through exhaustion, and that's a shame.
And don't miss bits like An Stac and Bidean out, as it feels like half job, let alone the Gap.
Good luck....the weather doesn't look too bad so far. I am in Torridon, so I'll wave from Liathach
1
In reply to CharlieMack:
I'm not sure how much time bypassing An Stac possibly saves, and a lot less of a slog. Bidein is a worthwhile bypass if running behind time, but you'd be missing a lot if you were to pass it.
I'd used a couple litres of water by An Dorus, but we'd stashed 2 litres each there. Without that top up I'd have found it hard to get to the end - though that was a 16 hour day plus hot afternoon in July.
I also backed off Naismiths! Since the gear flake fell off some time ago... so keep some consideration for this toward the end of the day.
I'm not sure how much time bypassing An Stac possibly saves, and a lot less of a slog. Bidein is a worthwhile bypass if running behind time, but you'd be missing a lot if you were to pass it.
I'd used a couple litres of water by An Dorus, but we'd stashed 2 litres each there. Without that top up I'd have found it hard to get to the end - though that was a 16 hour day plus hot afternoon in July.
I also backed off Naismiths! Since the gear flake fell off some time ago... so keep some consideration for this toward the end of the day.
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In reply to CharlieMack:
The crux issues IMHO are the weather, navigation and down soloing on loose exposed scrambles. Doing it over two days makes the weather windows smaller and adds weight in situations you may regret. In the right conditions (don't bother if not, unless you have loads in hand) the climbing bits are fine unless you are only a Severe leader (when I would question the wisdom of the undertaking), which is good, as its best for your overall chances that you climb them quickly with minimal pro in approach shoes.
The crux issues IMHO are the weather, navigation and down soloing on loose exposed scrambles. Doing it over two days makes the weather windows smaller and adds weight in situations you may regret. In the right conditions (don't bother if not, unless you have loads in hand) the climbing bits are fine unless you are only a Severe leader (when I would question the wisdom of the undertaking), which is good, as its best for your overall chances that you climb them quickly with minimal pro in approach shoes.
In reply to CharlieMack:
Cheers for all the info folks! Weather is looking good for the weekend (fingers crossed).
Should have a good set of skills between us. I'm pretty happy climbing up to about VS in trainers and should hopefully be fine with the nav as i'm doing my MIA in spring.
My friend is a keen hill walker and has been soloing some Severes at his local crag to get climbing ready. And i suspect he is probably the fitter of the two of us. (May try and squeeze some stuff in his bag, but shhh ).
Just packing everything up this afternoon, (including a straw as advised). Can't wait!
Cheers for all the info folks! Weather is looking good for the weekend (fingers crossed).
Should have a good set of skills between us. I'm pretty happy climbing up to about VS in trainers and should hopefully be fine with the nav as i'm doing my MIA in spring.
My friend is a keen hill walker and has been soloing some Severes at his local crag to get climbing ready. And i suspect he is probably the fitter of the two of us. (May try and squeeze some stuff in his bag, but shhh ).
Just packing everything up this afternoon, (including a straw as advised). Can't wait!
In reply to CharlieMack:
If is raining then the ridge is going to be clagged in. You'll be hard pressed to find any particular recommended bivi spot. i think you'd be best then to leave the gear at an easier found and re-found location like An-Dorus or Inn-pin. I'd play safe an go with Inn-pin so you can be fairly certain you'll get there before dark on push day 1. When you reach Inn-pin you can always carry it further if light allows. Also from an Inn-pin bivi stash you could go South to TG gap and stash the climbing gear at the first ab. Mind you that would add up a longish day on the hill in the rain and depending on your fitness you may leave you in poor shape for the ridge attempt proper the next day(s).
If is raining then the ridge is going to be clagged in. You'll be hard pressed to find any particular recommended bivi spot. i think you'd be best then to leave the gear at an easier found and re-found location like An-Dorus or Inn-pin. I'd play safe an go with Inn-pin so you can be fairly certain you'll get there before dark on push day 1. When you reach Inn-pin you can always carry it further if light allows. Also from an Inn-pin bivi stash you could go South to TG gap and stash the climbing gear at the first ab. Mind you that would add up a longish day on the hill in the rain and depending on your fitness you may leave you in poor shape for the ridge attempt proper the next day(s).
In reply to kwoods:
Oh yeah Charlie, forgot to say, there's no fecking way we're doing naismiths. Basteir tooth looks fine, it's am basteir + exhaustion I'm worried about. Bypass the hell out of this beast!
Oh yeah Charlie, forgot to say, there's no fecking way we're doing naismiths. Basteir tooth looks fine, it's am basteir + exhaustion I'm worried about. Bypass the hell out of this beast!
In reply to malcolm.harris:
But I don't think you can really claim to have done 'the Cuillin Ridge' if you miss out the Basteir Tooth and Am Basteir, because they are just such major features/summits on the ridge. Ditto Druim nam Ramh.
But I don't think you can really claim to have done 'the Cuillin Ridge' if you miss out the Basteir Tooth and Am Basteir, because they are just such major features/summits on the ridge. Ditto Druim nam Ramh.
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I've never been entirely comfortable with the way climbing ethics relate to the Cuillin, and the idea of straying from the pure line as being inferior. It may be, but that should solely be in a personal, internal sense. Surely it's not truly about making claims, or what you get to say you did. It's not a trophy.
I say that having done the direct in a day, Lota to the Tooth, with a finish down Pinnacle Ridge.
All that said, missing out these difficulties is missing out on a stack of quality climbing.
I've never been entirely comfortable with the way climbing ethics relate to the Cuillin, and the idea of straying from the pure line as being inferior. It may be, but that should solely be in a personal, internal sense. Surely it's not truly about making claims, or what you get to say you did. It's not a trophy.
I say that having done the direct in a day, Lota to the Tooth, with a finish down Pinnacle Ridge.
All that said, missing out these difficulties is missing out on a stack of quality climbing.
2
In reply to malcolm.harris:
Got to go for Am Bastier (and Tooth)! Lota Coire Route is fine and just say you'll second the tricky wall above!
Got to go for Am Bastier (and Tooth)! Lota Coire Route is fine and just say you'll second the tricky wall above!
In reply to CharlieMack:
There's tons of good well-made bivi spots on the ridge (maybe 20+?). So it's more where you want to break up the days. I'd recommend getting past Ghreadaidh though so you've done the bigger day first.
There's tons of good well-made bivi spots on the ridge (maybe 20+?). So it's more where you want to break up the days. I'd recommend getting past Ghreadaidh though so you've done the bigger day first.
In reply to CharlieMack:
As mentioned in Mike Lates' guide, you can fill up with water in Coire a' Ghrunnda - no need to carry it up from the campsite. We took 2 litres and had expected to leave the crest at some point to fill up, but were lucky enough to find a few snow patches to fill up from.
Enjoy
As mentioned in Mike Lates' guide, you can fill up with water in Coire a' Ghrunnda - no need to carry it up from the campsite. We took 2 litres and had expected to leave the crest at some point to fill up, but were lucky enough to find a few snow patches to fill up from.
Enjoy
In reply to CharlieMack:
Go on then :-P am basteir is going to be my main concern though, no point ruining an otherwise enjoyable experience over it, when could be done more enjoyably another time. That said, if the weather's better than forecasted there's no excuse.
Go on then :-P am basteir is going to be my main concern though, no point ruining an otherwise enjoyable experience over it, when could be done more enjoyably another time. That said, if the weather's better than forecasted there's no excuse.
Post edited at 18:43
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Don't agree Gordon sorry and think Kevin's appraisal is superb. Anyone reaching the summit of Gillean from their chosen start at the south end of the Ridge has Traversed the Cuillin Ridge. Bailing out before the Tooth is not succesful. I've yet to meet the person who reached Gillean by any route who doesn't consider themselves to have done the Ridge. An excuse to come back and do it again, hopefully with better appreciation of how to make it purer but never a "fail". The snobbery is the exclusive preserve of those who fluked it in perfect nick with the perfect partner 1st time or those who've never done it. No doubt a red rag to UKC bullers
> But I don't think you can really claim to have done 'the Cuillin Ridge' if you miss out the Basteir Tooth and Am Basteir, because they are just such major features/summits on the ridge. Ditto Druim nam Ramh.
Don't agree Gordon sorry and think Kevin's appraisal is superb. Anyone reaching the summit of Gillean from their chosen start at the south end of the Ridge has Traversed the Cuillin Ridge. Bailing out before the Tooth is not succesful. I've yet to meet the person who reached Gillean by any route who doesn't consider themselves to have done the Ridge. An excuse to come back and do it again, hopefully with better appreciation of how to make it purer but never a "fail". The snobbery is the exclusive preserve of those who fluked it in perfect nick with the perfect partner 1st time or those who've never done it. No doubt a red rag to UKC bullers
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In reply to Mike Lates:
Gosh, Mike. I agree with much that Kevin says. I don't think the Cuillin ridge has much to do with climbing ethics, and almost nothing to do with 'making claims' or 'trophies'. It's surely - as with all climbing - what one feels in one's heart of hearts about what one's done. Climbing is never about conning anybody. If whatever a 'Cuillin-traverser' has done, by whatever means or route, has satisfied them, well, fine. I know that I would be unhappy not to follow the skyline, or very close to it, pretty much most of the way. I'm sure Shadbolt and thingy went over all the tops on the first traverse.
Surely it starts to lose its meaning once you start to miss summits out. It's well known that you can skip the TD gap (quite a small feature and not a top) but you could also skip Sgurr Thearlaich completely ... and Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. Where does this line of thinking stop? Surely you wouldn't miss out the In Pin, but if not, why on earth would it be OK to miss out Am Basteir? I don't get it.
People can follow whatever routes they like in the hills. Of course you can very loosely follow the line of the Cuillin Ridge and miss out most of the main tops, just as you can walk from Glenbrittle to Sligachan below the ridge.
Striding Edge (scrambling grade less than 1) is a peculiar example. Many people say they've done it, when they follow a path about 20 feet down from the ridge. That really is a walk, and not the ridge/edge. The beauty of Crib Goch - one reason why it is such an exceptionally good grade 1 scramble - is you just can't cheat. You have to follow the crest.
As you know, I never did the Cuillin Ridge in one go, but just about all of it in bits (except central and east peak of Druim nam Ramh), some of them many times. It doesn't really bother me ... but I would never claim to have 'done the Ridge'.
Cheers, Gordon. BTW, hope to visit you in the not too distant future.
Gosh, Mike. I agree with much that Kevin says. I don't think the Cuillin ridge has much to do with climbing ethics, and almost nothing to do with 'making claims' or 'trophies'. It's surely - as with all climbing - what one feels in one's heart of hearts about what one's done. Climbing is never about conning anybody. If whatever a 'Cuillin-traverser' has done, by whatever means or route, has satisfied them, well, fine. I know that I would be unhappy not to follow the skyline, or very close to it, pretty much most of the way. I'm sure Shadbolt and thingy went over all the tops on the first traverse.
Surely it starts to lose its meaning once you start to miss summits out. It's well known that you can skip the TD gap (quite a small feature and not a top) but you could also skip Sgurr Thearlaich completely ... and Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. Where does this line of thinking stop? Surely you wouldn't miss out the In Pin, but if not, why on earth would it be OK to miss out Am Basteir? I don't get it.
People can follow whatever routes they like in the hills. Of course you can very loosely follow the line of the Cuillin Ridge and miss out most of the main tops, just as you can walk from Glenbrittle to Sligachan below the ridge.
Striding Edge (scrambling grade less than 1) is a peculiar example. Many people say they've done it, when they follow a path about 20 feet down from the ridge. That really is a walk, and not the ridge/edge. The beauty of Crib Goch - one reason why it is such an exceptionally good grade 1 scramble - is you just can't cheat. You have to follow the crest.
As you know, I never did the Cuillin Ridge in one go, but just about all of it in bits (except central and east peak of Druim nam Ramh), some of them many times. It doesn't really bother me ... but I would never claim to have 'done the Ridge'.
Cheers, Gordon. BTW, hope to visit you in the not too distant future.
4
In reply to kwoods:
Well, that's a fantastic, 'pure' way of finishing the ridge. V impressive when you're tired. Mind you, the ordinary 'tourist route' off Gillean is very fine too. But, I would feel a bit dissatisfied myself if I did the easiest of the three options: reversing the west ridge. Yes, you've ticked the final summit, and traversed all the summits ... but ...
> I say that having done the direct in a day, Lota to the Tooth, with a finish down Pinnacle Ridge.
Well, that's a fantastic, 'pure' way of finishing the ridge. V impressive when you're tired. Mind you, the ordinary 'tourist route' off Gillean is very fine too. But, I would feel a bit dissatisfied myself if I did the easiest of the three options: reversing the west ridge. Yes, you've ticked the final summit, and traversed all the summits ... but ...
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
But the west ridge is a good bit harder than the tourist route! The latter is a fine short narrow bit of ridge, then easy.
But the west ridge is a good bit harder than the tourist route! The latter is a fine short narrow bit of ridge, then easy.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
it's only a lump of rock, does it really matter as long as you tick all the main summits or key features and had a good day? Where do you draw the line, perhaps have one foot in the sea at the start (soay sound), then finish with a foot in the sea at sligachan, or perhaps the greater traverse?
> . But, I would feel a bit dissatisfied myself if I did the easiest of the three options:
it's only a lump of rock, does it really matter as long as you tick all the main summits or key features and had a good day? Where do you draw the line, perhaps have one foot in the sea at the start (soay sound), then finish with a foot in the sea at sligachan, or perhaps the greater traverse?
Post edited at 07:45
In reply to Mike Lates:
I 'fluked' the ridge with all the climbing bits and tricky nav 'onsight' (helped by good planning) and yet still agree with you and not Gordon if the route goes somewhere along the ridge from start to finish it counts. I've alreacy said the scariest bits for me were loose exposed scrambling descents and I had a light sack on my back having been minimalist on a one day crossing. In many respects the bypass lines add complexity and like any ascents honesty in style is the only important issue (unless you are taking on the record time when the rules are stricter).
I 'fluked' the ridge with all the climbing bits and tricky nav 'onsight' (helped by good planning) and yet still agree with you and not Gordon if the route goes somewhere along the ridge from start to finish it counts. I've alreacy said the scariest bits for me were loose exposed scrambling descents and I had a light sack on my back having been minimalist on a one day crossing. In many respects the bypass lines add complexity and like any ascents honesty in style is the only important issue (unless you are taking on the record time when the rules are stricter).
Post edited at 17:30
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Also the comparison doesn't really work because the biggest challenge of the Traverse is the sheer scale of holding the mountaineering together for such a prolonged period without dying
> Surely it starts to lose its meaning once you start to miss summits out. It's well known that you can skip the TD gap (quite a small feature and not a top) but you could also skip Sgurr Thearlaich completely ... and Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. Where does this line of thinking stop? Surely you wouldn't miss out the In Pin, but if not, why on earth would it be OK to miss out Am Basteir? I don't get it.
I've done Traverses via all of these examples for all sorts of practical reasons including an accident that enforced a bivi at Loch Lagan and rejoining at Bealach Coire Lagan, Q's at Pinn and clients just having no interest in joining the bun-fight, etc, etc. It's about the challenge in hand and dealing with the practicalities to reach the "summit" of Gillean.> People can follow whatever routes they like in the hills. Of course you can very loosely follow the line of the Cuillin Ridge and miss out most of the main tops, just as you can walk from Glenbrittle to Sligachan below the ridge.
If they've started on Gars-bheinn & end on Gillean it's been a Traverse but somewhat missed the best bits; perhaps someone should set a record for this then write it up on UKC as a must do variation > Striding Edge (scrambling grade less than 1) is a peculiar example. Many people say they've done it, when they follow a path about 20 feet down from the ridge. That really is a walk, and not the ridge/edge. The beauty of Crib Goch - one reason why it is such an exceptionally good grade 1 scramble - is you just can't cheat. You have to follow the crest.
They don't feel they cheated, probably highly exhilarated and quite possibly "climbed a higher mountain" than someone who popped along the top in a carefree manner.Also the comparison doesn't really work because the biggest challenge of the Traverse is the sheer scale of holding the mountaineering together for such a prolonged period without dying
> Cheers, Gordon. BTW, hope to visit you in the not too distant future.
Great news; aim for last 2 weeks of January for best insight into whats changed since you were last here...... In reply to CharlieMack:
Get the boat (fast RIB) from Elgol and avoid the slog. Not sure if they're still running - Mike will know. It doesn't give you an early start but is way cool and means you get to the top of Gars Bheinn fresh. A bus from Broadford leaves to Elgol at the back of seven, so logistics aren't too bad.
Get the boat (fast RIB) from Elgol and avoid the slog. Not sure if they're still running - Mike will know. It doesn't give you an early start but is way cool and means you get to the top of Gars Bheinn fresh. A bus from Broadford leaves to Elgol at the back of seven, so logistics aren't too bad.
In reply to Murko Fuzz:
Not such a good forecast for Charlie now sadly; south end clagged today & forecast similar Friday. Saturday may swing SE so could dry out & leave a window til Sunday pm. Aquxplore aim to be running til end Oct; 01471 866244
Not such a good forecast for Charlie now sadly; south end clagged today & forecast similar Friday. Saturday may swing SE so could dry out & leave a window til Sunday pm. Aquxplore aim to be running til end Oct; 01471 866244
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