UKC

I'm after one of those krabs that can be "locked" open until the act of clipping it into a bolt closes it. One of my sport climbing buddies has one of these (bought in France over a decade ago) on a nice, long stiff quickdraw for those hard to reach bolts just a little too far above the last one.

I have no idea where to buy one or, even, what they're called. I don't even have a picture so that's nice and helpful. Anyone got any clues?

In reply to Frank the Husky

What you're after is Beal Panic or Kpong something.

Get one from here:
http://www.bergfreunde.co.uk/beal-panic-sling/

or elsewhere.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

one of these?:

http://www.needlesports.com/3461/products/mad-rock-trigger-wire-karabiner.a...

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Kong Frog, for example

In reply to Frank the Husky:

We whittled one for a route on the Costa Blanca with a horrible clip. Two shallow notches at right angles in the ends of an inch long twig. Tied loosely to the dogbone so you don't have to whittle a new one every time. The twig sits across the gate and holds it open but as you clip it gets knocked out of the way. If you rack it reasonably separately from your other draws the twig stays in place until needed.

A second twig and some fingertape was employed to stiffen the sling.

In reply to Lemony:

This works really well
http://www.barrabes.com/kong-panic-30-cm/p-38335?idvariedad=153342&opt=...

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Oi! I'll thank you not to call my Panic a 'cheater clip'! My Panic and I are a team. I never leave the ground without my trusty friend.

In reply to Wiley Coyote:


Kong/Beal Panic are only called cheater clip, if you're over 170cm...

So for my missus they're not and for me they are indeed cheater clips .




Just like crag-gloves

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I use DIY...... Sling , two crabs, plastic plumbing pipe and duck tape.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Just wedge a crab open with a bit of stick.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I have a Kong Panic http://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/c2-sport/g4-climbing/p420-panic and it is superb. The gate stays open until you clip the bolt and give a gentle tug and then it acts like a proper QD. You can hold the bottom of the QD and reach about 30cms, normally just enough to reach those distant clips. I bought mine in France and not sure if anyone sells them in the UK but several shops here do mail order.

In reply to Frank the Husky: Thanks to everyone, I now have a 30cm Panic thing on its way to me. Soon I'll be crushing 5+.

In reply to kingborris:

Those Mad rock's look good, but if they'd designed the 'lock' so that it could fold over to block the gate from opening, it would double up as a sort of locking biner.