UKC

Going to LLanberis Pass mid week can anyone suggest some clasiic multi pitch climbs s - vs to bag.

In reply to SK:

Crackstone Rib, Ribstone Crack, Lion, Nea, Shadow Wall, Trilon, Brant (HVS version direct start well protected if you fancy pushing it).

All these are on Carreg Wastad and the Grochan which are next to each other, and all well worthwhile.

Have a good one!

In reply to SK:

Don't forget to look at the Main Wall of Cyrn Las.

In reply to SK:

Can't believe someone would go to 'The Pass' and not have any idea of the routes therein !
Have you never read any climbing literature,talked to other climbers,looked on the net...do you live in a hermitage ?

In reply to Jonno:

Steady on Jonno, these 'furriners' do not always learn to read guidebooks to areas other than grit.
BTW, when was there last an article in a mag extolling the pleasures of good old routes in the pass?

Is there a pass guide available ATM?

In reply to sutty:

There was an article about Main Wall and Gambit in Climber (I think) a couple of months back. They're more or less in the pass

In reply to sutty: This months, or was it last months, High has an article on the Pass I believe, although I think it only breifly brushes over the lower grade climbs and looks more at E1 and above...

Can you tell I haven't read it properly yet?

In reply to Mooncat:

And Then There's:
Anthropology, Little Sepulchre (well worth the walk), Phantom Rib, Sabre Cut, Dives, DIrect Route (nice 5b move), THe Cracks...

This should be enough to keep you going.

In reply to SK:

The Crevice, Clogwyn y Grochan. A nice open wall climb. The name is deceptive.

Goats Gully is also very fine. Don't let appearances put you off. The holds you need are all dry.

In reply to clams:

Anthropology, what a route. I took a 45 year old up it in 59 and he struggled like a good un on the chimney bit, what was wrong with the old fart I thought.

25 years on, I was to second it with a younger climber. NOW I FOUND OUT WHY HE STRUGGLED. Oh how had the arrogance of youth been laid to rest.
Good route though.

Phantom Rib, Brant, Lion, Shadow Wall, Noahs Warning, Cobweb Crack, Direct on the Mot, all good routes if you can just do HVS. Broad Walk used to be rated well but is a bit harder.

In reply to sutty:

I'll have to 2nd it in 25 years then (if it's not too polished!).

Are you suggesting Phantom Rib <<good routes if you can just do HVS>> is harder than Anthropology?

In reply to clams:

Seemed about the same at the time, think Phantom Rib was a move over the lip and a couple of pads up the rib. Much easier in sticky boots.
Overlapping Wall is another one move wonder, well protected even then but wall trained climbers should have few problems.
For adventure go for Ngombo, strenuous, delicate, loose rock and poor protection.

In reply to SK:

Well, you've had a lot already. My choices (some repetition here) would be as follows:

1. Dives/Better things (HS) - Dinas Cromlech (superb main pitch but high in the grade IMO).

2. Sabre Cut (VS) - Dinas Cromlech (hint - take very big pro for the main pitch - exciting!).

3. The Cracks (HS) - Dinas Mot (not quite as good as classic rock makes out but well worth doing)

4. The Direct (VS) - Dinas Mot (brilliant route which is well-protected throughout and has one tough 5b pitch at the top).

5. Western Slabs (VS) - Dinas Mot (a much under-rated route IMO).

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:


Is this the gully to the right of goat's buttress? might go in winter...