This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Never thought I would even contemplate this as I have always been a trad climber, but I am seriously considering switching sides for a while. I used to trad climb HVS/E1 with a few E2's. The highest I ever went was one E3 and one E4. Since then I have had two kids so am happy to climb Vdiff-HS all day long. My oldest is now 5 and I hauled her up Gamma at Froggatt edge the other week (literally hauled her up). Anyway due to the logistics involved taking a 3 year old and a 5 year old trad climbing I have thought about getting on some sport routes. Has anybody ever taken their kids sport climbing and will it piss people off if I set a top rope up on a route like it would on a trad route? I just want an accessible way to climb with my family without the hassle of gear. Also are their any really easy sport climbing routes in the peak or are they all fairly hard compared to trad routes? Cheers for reading my rambling post, any advice would be great.
In reply to stayfreejc:
From my limited experience of sport climbing, top roping is okay for sport climbing. Some people go nuts and get that long clipstick that they somehow manage to clip the chains without leaving the ground (I have no idea how was that possible, but seen a group of families toproping off a single quickdraw clipped to only one hanger at the chains).
As long as you are not hogging 5 different routes with your ropes and allow other people to climb whatever they want, that's fine. I would avoid super busy crags and just chat with other people, know the routes they want to do and stay away from other people. As a general consensus, leaders have a priority over top-ropers.
TL;DR: Go for it, but behave nicely and consider other people (so they treat you well too).
From my limited experience of sport climbing, top roping is okay for sport climbing. Some people go nuts and get that long clipstick that they somehow manage to clip the chains without leaving the ground (I have no idea how was that possible, but seen a group of families toproping off a single quickdraw clipped to only one hanger at the chains).
As long as you are not hogging 5 different routes with your ropes and allow other people to climb whatever they want, that's fine. I would avoid super busy crags and just chat with other people, know the routes they want to do and stay away from other people. As a general consensus, leaders have a priority over top-ropers.
TL;DR: Go for it, but behave nicely and consider other people (so they treat you well too).
In reply to stayfreejc:
Generally speaking if someone's climbing on TR that doesn't piss me off. It's when instructors set up lines over the whole crag and then don't touch them for hours....
Generally speaking if someone's climbing on TR that doesn't piss me off. It's when instructors set up lines over the whole crag and then don't touch them for hours....
5
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:
Yeah I no what you mean. I tried leading a route then bringing my 5 year old up on second which was ok, but obviously she could only unclip the rope so the gear was left in. My wife then had to climb up and remove the gear then lower back down as our other daughter was at the bottom so she obviously couldn't leave her. Top rope is ideal at this age and I seem to think it would be easier at a sport climbing crag as the anchors are all in place ready.
Yeah I no what you mean. I tried leading a route then bringing my 5 year old up on second which was ok, but obviously she could only unclip the rope so the gear was left in. My wife then had to climb up and remove the gear then lower back down as our other daughter was at the bottom so she obviously couldn't leave her. Top rope is ideal at this age and I seem to think it would be easier at a sport climbing crag as the anchors are all in place ready.
In reply to stayfreejc:
what sort of example is that to set for a child - sooner she gets used to pulling trad gear the better
what sort of example is that to set for a child - sooner she gets used to pulling trad gear the better
4
1
In reply to stayfreejc:
Given your wife is experienced, you could trail some ropes (lead with a single, trail two halves/singles?) while leading. Let two kids second without needing to unclip the ropes from the gear (assuming the climb is pretty much straight up). Kids at the top are safe with you. Then your wife seconds on the rope you lead with and get all the gear out. Sounds ridiculous, but that would work. Just be careful with traverses.
Also, never top rope off the anchors so you don't wear the anchors.
Given your wife is experienced, you could trail some ropes (lead with a single, trail two halves/singles?) while leading. Let two kids second without needing to unclip the ropes from the gear (assuming the climb is pretty much straight up). Kids at the top are safe with you. Then your wife seconds on the rope you lead with and get all the gear out. Sounds ridiculous, but that would work. Just be careful with traverses.
Also, never top rope off the anchors so you don't wear the anchors.
5
In reply to stayfreejc:
Not where I live... might be different though there .
Just make sure you'll only have on TR up and most people should be fine with that.
Not where I live... might be different though there .
Just make sure you'll only have on TR up and most people should be fine with that.
In reply to PPP:
Thats a good idea. So is it bad form to top rope off of the lower off bolts on a sport climb? Sorry if this sounds stupid but I have only ever trad climbed.
Thats a good idea. So is it bad form to top rope off of the lower off bolts on a sport climb? Sorry if this sounds stupid but I have only ever trad climbed.
In reply to stayfreejc:
Top roping is fine as long as you don't hog routes for ages.
Top roping directly off the bolts is not cool though, wears the bolts. Use quick draws / krabs on the bolts.
Top roping is fine as long as you don't hog routes for ages.
Top roping directly off the bolts is not cool though, wears the bolts. Use quick draws / krabs on the bolts.
2
In reply to jezb1:
Cool. So if I lead a route then put a locking crab on the lower off bolt and use that to top rope then that is ok?
Cool. So if I lead a route then put a locking crab on the lower off bolt and use that to top rope then that is ok?
4
In reply to stayfreejc:
In the Peak District the easier sport routes are crap (and often loose). I'd stick to grit tbh, it's just as quick to set up a top rope, the routes are more solid, the climbing tends to be better, they'll be in nicer areas rather than some shit quarry and you can decide to belay from the top or bottom of the crag depending on the situation.
I love limestone but if I'd been taken top-roping at places like Horseshoe, I doubt id have carried on climbing.
In the Peak District the easier sport routes are crap (and often loose). I'd stick to grit tbh, it's just as quick to set up a top rope, the routes are more solid, the climbing tends to be better, they'll be in nicer areas rather than some shit quarry and you can decide to belay from the top or bottom of the crag depending on the situation.
I love limestone but if I'd been taken top-roping at places like Horseshoe, I doubt id have carried on climbing.
2
In reply to stayfreejc:
I have 3 children aged 12, 10, and 7 and have been trad climbing with them for years, but have only this year tried sport climbing with them for the same reasons. On the whole I have had lots of support for getting young ones on the crags with only one incident of people thinking they shouldn't be there, even though my child was climbing quickly and confidently. I try to choose quieter venues - further along Stanage, Gardoms, etc and get out early. Same with sport routing. For climbing with children , can't beat Font!!
Good luck with little ones.
I have 3 children aged 12, 10, and 7 and have been trad climbing with them for years, but have only this year tried sport climbing with them for the same reasons. On the whole I have had lots of support for getting young ones on the crags with only one incident of people thinking they shouldn't be there, even though my child was climbing quickly and confidently. I try to choose quieter venues - further along Stanage, Gardoms, etc and get out early. Same with sport routing. For climbing with children , can't beat Font!!
Good luck with little ones.
In reply to stayfreejc:
Cheers everyone. Some good info. My kids are still very young but want climbing to be normal for them which is why I want them out on the rock as soon as I can.
Cheers everyone. Some good info. My kids are still very young but want climbing to be normal for them which is why I want them out on the rock as soon as I can.
1
In reply to stayfreejc:
Similar to my path - the majority of my climbing is sport nowadays.
Easy sport in the Peak? Horrible by and large. Most easy sport is often/usually loose and and a bit/a lot crap..unfortunately.
Similar to my path - the majority of my climbing is sport nowadays.
Easy sport in the Peak? Horrible by and large. Most easy sport is often/usually loose and and a bit/a lot crap..unfortunately.
In reply to stayfreejc:
We have a 9 year old girl who is into climbing, but most sports routes are much too hard when you are small. We have taken her outdoors a few times, we found that D's, VD's and the odd HS were a good starting point to set up a bottom rope on and let her and a friend climb.
Basically we found a place with good trees at the top, lead the route and lower off an anchor cleaning gear, and then belay from the bottom.
We have a 9 year old girl who is into climbing, but most sports routes are much too hard when you are small. We have taken her outdoors a few times, we found that D's, VD's and the odd HS were a good starting point to set up a bottom rope on and let her and a friend climb.
Basically we found a place with good trees at the top, lead the route and lower off an anchor cleaning gear, and then belay from the bottom.
In reply to stayfreejc:
Maybe you don't need to sport with your kids. We are training up a new climber and we let him lead the route but set up a secondary top rope as a back up incase he screws up. It's faffing around but very soon he'll be up to speed and the effort should pay off.
Maybe you don't need to sport with your kids. We are training up a new climber and we let him lead the route but set up a secondary top rope as a back up incase he screws up. It's faffing around but very soon he'll be up to speed and the effort should pay off.
1
In reply to stayfreejc:
What are the logistical problems with taking them trad climbing?
At 3 and 5 you can let them weasel stuff and they'll be happy. Add a harness and a rope and body belay them up a few non-routes at Stanage or Burbage and they'll be convinced they're proper climbers. There are loads of opportunities for setting up easy top ropes, with minimal gear on trad (non) routes, most of the sport stuff, less so.
The sport stuff is going to be vertical and probably far too hard/reachy for them, there are nice easy sport routes in the Peak, you can ignore the people claiming otherwise, they just don't know where to go to find it or forget what is a bad quarry to an adult is a world of adventure to a kid.
What are the logistical problems with taking them trad climbing?
At 3 and 5 you can let them weasel stuff and they'll be happy. Add a harness and a rope and body belay them up a few non-routes at Stanage or Burbage and they'll be convinced they're proper climbers. There are loads of opportunities for setting up easy top ropes, with minimal gear on trad (non) routes, most of the sport stuff, less so.
The sport stuff is going to be vertical and probably far too hard/reachy for them, there are nice easy sport routes in the Peak, you can ignore the people claiming otherwise, they just don't know where to go to find it or forget what is a bad quarry to an adult is a world of adventure to a kid.
In reply to deacondeacon:
Hijacking the thread somewhat - but what's the best Sport climbing in the UK in the F6-7 range?
> In the Peak District the easier sport routes are crap (and often loose).
Hijacking the thread somewhat - but what's the best Sport climbing in the UK in the F6-7 range?
In reply to winhill:
So where are these good, safe limestone crags that would be good for a three and five year old?
Genuinely interested.
> What are the logistical problems with taking them trad climbing?
> you can ignore the people claiming otherwise, they just don't know where to go to find it
So where are these good, safe limestone crags that would be good for a three and five year old?
Genuinely interested.
In reply to planetmarshall:
I can't really say as I haven't done enough of it
I hear Portland is the best in the 6's, and Yorkshire (Malham etc) is the best in the 7s
Regards to the Peak district, I'd say its 6c and above, some 6b+'s being good and solid. Lots of the limestone is cheedale is brilliant
I can't really say as I haven't done enough of it
I hear Portland is the best in the 6's, and Yorkshire (Malham etc) is the best in the 7s
Regards to the Peak district, I'd say its 6c and above, some 6b+'s being good and solid. Lots of the limestone is cheedale is brilliant
In reply to deacondeacon:
Er, I said they were mostly unsuitable for kids that age.
Genuinely something.
> So where are these good, safe limestone crags that would be good for a three and five year old?
Er, I said they were mostly unsuitable for kids that age.
> Genuinely interested.
Genuinely something.
In reply to stayfreejc:
If you want somewhere nice and child friendly with easy-ish routes to take your family toproping you're thinking along the wrong lines. UK sport tends to be steep and hard with belays you have to lead to and plenty of loose rock. The grit is much more suitable with walks to the top and every grade and style under the sun.
jk
If you want somewhere nice and child friendly with easy-ish routes to take your family toproping you're thinking along the wrong lines. UK sport tends to be steep and hard with belays you have to lead to and plenty of loose rock. The grit is much more suitable with walks to the top and every grade and style under the sun.
jk
4
In reply to ashtond6:
There are no good easy sport routes because in general people aren't allowed to bolt stuff that would make easy good sport routes... :P
There is various easy stuff (2s and 3s) at Portland, plus Blacknor Beach is good (access possibly less so with small children).
There are no good easy sport routes because in general people aren't allowed to bolt stuff that would make easy good sport routes... :P
> I hear Portland is the best in the 6's [...]
There is various easy stuff (2s and 3s) at Portland, plus Blacknor Beach is good (access possibly less so with small children).
1
In reply to ashtond6:
>Don't take them to the 'easy' quarries. The easier routes are deathtraps
And not that easy either if you are only 3 foot!
Tintern Quarry has loads of "easy" routes but it's a scary place even for an experienced climber...
>Don't take them to the 'easy' quarries. The easier routes are deathtraps
And not that easy either if you are only 3 foot!
Tintern Quarry has loads of "easy" routes but it's a scary place even for an experienced climber...
In reply to planetmarshall:
In the sevens, Malham, Kilnsey and Goredale must be hard to beat (I haven't climbed at Goredale yet, but friends have spoken highly of it).
> what's the best Sport climbing in the UK in the F6-7 range?
In the sevens, Malham, Kilnsey and Goredale must be hard to beat (I haven't climbed at Goredale yet, but friends have spoken highly of it).
In reply to deacondeacon:
I took my 3 and 5 year olds to Harborough Rocks the other week. They loved it. They both got up a mod and a diff and the bigger one got up more. Because it is so short, I sat at the top and belayer from there so they got a proper top-out (they hate lowering off). The limestone was loads easier for their small reach compared to grit on which they have had real nightmares before.
It was worth the hour drive to get there. They didn't even care about the brick factory making a racket. Almost everything there is easy compared to sport where grade 5 would be really hard at their age I'd have thought.
> So where are these good, safe limestone crags that would be good for a three and five year old?
I took my 3 and 5 year olds to Harborough Rocks the other week. They loved it. They both got up a mod and a diff and the bigger one got up more. Because it is so short, I sat at the top and belayer from there so they got a proper top-out (they hate lowering off). The limestone was loads easier for their small reach compared to grit on which they have had real nightmares before.
It was worth the hour drive to get there. They didn't even care about the brick factory making a racket. Almost everything there is easy compared to sport where grade 5 would be really hard at their age I'd have thought.
1
In reply to stayfreejc:
Not in the Peak, but a good summer sport location with kids is Rhossili Beach the Mermaid Wall sector offers a number of good routes in amenable grades. Idyllic location and climbs start straight off the golden sand, great for a beach/climbing day. The easy climbs are tidal though, so best to look at tide tables before you visit, spring lows give around a 5 hour climbing window, if the low is above 2m the climbs can't be accessed with dry feet. If you are in the area and keen to continue climbing once the tide is in (rather than chilling on the beach, building sandcastles, swimming) then on the non tidal outcrops above the beach are more Sports lines, No match for crag id:729 the stuff on Wedge Wall is relatively kid friendly - short, unintimidating, good flat base, but the climbs are a little trickier than the easier options on the beach.
Perhaps one for a family holiday?
Not in the Peak, but a good summer sport location with kids is Rhossili Beach the Mermaid Wall sector offers a number of good routes in amenable grades. Idyllic location and climbs start straight off the golden sand, great for a beach/climbing day. The easy climbs are tidal though, so best to look at tide tables before you visit, spring lows give around a 5 hour climbing window, if the low is above 2m the climbs can't be accessed with dry feet. If you are in the area and keen to continue climbing once the tide is in (rather than chilling on the beach, building sandcastles, swimming) then on the non tidal outcrops above the beach are more Sports lines, No match for crag id:729 the stuff on Wedge Wall is relatively kid friendly - short, unintimidating, good flat base, but the climbs are a little trickier than the easier options on the beach.
Perhaps one for a family holiday?
1
In reply to stayfreejc:
I climbed the amazing grade 1 at Swanage for fun once. The weird thing was it felt a fair bit sketchier to lead than some harder climbs because of the considerable about of things to hit on the way down, should you shamefully fall...
I climbed the amazing grade 1 at Swanage for fun once. The weird thing was it felt a fair bit sketchier to lead than some harder climbs because of the considerable about of things to hit on the way down, should you shamefully fall...
1
In reply to The Ivanator:
Trial Wall Area correct link for the non beach options at Rhossili (Wedge Wall etc.).
Trial Wall Area correct link for the non beach options at Rhossili (Wedge Wall etc.).
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...