UKC

M Dumyat

Anyone done this ? It looks good but totally unprotected. I notice a small spike above that would take a top rope perhaps. Adjacent Pillar Crack also interesting.
No recorded ascents in ukc so grading might therefore be unconfirmed.

Any comments welcome.Logie Buttress (D)

In reply to alan.rodger:

I'd be very wary of the rock quality, apart from anything else. Last ascent was probably by Tam Low in the late 1950s! Cybertaff of this parish is your man for disintegrating vegetated puddingstone choss in the Ochils.

In reply to IanMcC:
Ian - I take your point but thought these 2 looked like the exceptions and would provide sport on a spare afternoon.

In reply to alan.rodger:

I had a look at these (and more) a couple of years back. I don't remember seeing much kit in either route and the rock did seem a bit suspect so decided against having a crack at them. Sheriffmuir Buttress has much better rock but I do remember getting tempted by a couple of climbs in Warlock Glen (Raeburns Pinacle springs to mind) but as yet haven't found anyone daft enough to give them a try.

In reply to alan.rodger:

One of the Hillfoots Glens, Alva or Silver Glen, has a steep bit of rock overhanging the burn that I've often thought would make a good sport crag.

In reply to aln:

Smugglers cave: Like a miniature Gordale.

In reply to alan.rodger:

Despite there being several pages of detail on Dumyat routes in the old Donald Bennet SMC guidebook, in all my years of Ochil-wandering I've yet to see anyone climbing or even really scrambling on Dumyat or the other Hillfoot rocky bits eg Craig Leith. As others have said, the rock looks horrible and unstable. Once - around a decade ago - I met a man in a poor state coming very slowly down the Woodhill Wood path with a leg injury and what looked to be a dislocated shoulder. He wasn't very amenable to offers of help but I insisted (he looked like he might well soon collapse) and on the way back down to the car park he said that he'd been scrambling somewhere, but wouldn't say where. My guess was the rocky bit in the curious dry gully between Wood Hill summit and the end of the Millar Hill ridge, but that is just a guess really given the absence of other likely places.

CyberTaff - Is Raeburn's Pinnacle the little rocky ridge that juts out southwards from the Kips slope of Dumyat, visible from road level on the east side of Stirling? The direct line up from above the gorse slope is too hard for me (the grassy gully immediately to the west is a nice way up or down apart from having to outflank the damn gorse bushes below - bring back the goats I say), but I've often gone to the top of it from the easy side and sat there for a snack - is a fine perch.

In reply to alan moore:

Strangely enough I found an old guide to Dumyat etc. by the late Tam Low on the Ochils MC website.Easy to find.
I climbed here in the early 7o's . Also my first ever rock climb was Central Gully on Craig Leith ( V.Diff) 1969

In reply to Lesdavmor:
Tam's guide:
http://www.ochils.com/component/option,com_docman/task,cat_view/gid,35/Item...

How (dare I ask) was Central Gully? I believe it was climbed in full winter nick in the early 1980s at IV.

In reply to CyberTaff:

I through a rope down from a spike above Logie buttress but it didn't line up. I didn't fancy tackling it unprotected - well not this year anyway - cheers.

In reply to alan moore:

That sounds like the place.

In reply to alan.rodger:
For my first year at Stirling Uni (1978) I stayed in Blairlogie & just after arriving I wondered up to the crags above the village & climbed a line on a slabby crag, never difficult but increasingly frightening until I was able to escape. Although I bought the SMC District Guide a little later I never really climbed on the Ochils again except for a small, fairly solid, buttress which I knew as Sherrifmuir crag. I also climbed an easy gully in deep snow one winter. But I think Ian Duckworth climbed a few routes

In reply to alan.rodger:

I was climbing in old army boots & got about 1/2 way up before I got scared & tried to downclimb, found that I could not so managed to finish. As it was my 1st ever climb, I had nothing to compare it to but I think it was both grotty & vegetated, pretty much to be expected for the Ochils. I later logged Rayburns & The Crack on Dumyat. I also remember doing a nice climb on the mentione buttress above Blairlogie, it must have been protectable as we were roped up.

In reply to Dave Hewitt:

Raeburns Pinnacle is meant to be the rock at the left edge of Cirque Gulley in Warlock Glen. The rocvk looks "OK" but not much protection and it is meant to be a Moderate. I have a look at the one you mentioned and up close it did not look appealing!!

In reply to Doug:

Sheriffmuir buttress is good fun along with Kips and Low Buttress by the summit. Both Kips and Low Buttress are not particularly high but good sport nonetheless!!

In reply to CyberTaff:


Ta - I'll have a look next time I'm up the gully, not that I have any intention of trying to get up the thing. The sneaky sideways route into Warlock Glen via the slanting path across the face from Blairlogie Glen is a good route to get at such things, if a bit brackeny lower down in late summer/autumn. The little bit of path round the actual corner into the big gully is a great spot.


First time I was there was on a winter's day years ago with a certain well-known Hillfoots-based climber who reckoned that the protuberance should perhaps be known as Crocket's Pinnacle...

(Just back in from the decidedly non-rocky Blairdenon via Glen Tye.)

In reply to alan.rodger:

Here is a link to a winter ascent of Raeburns Gully on Dumyat.
youtube.com/watch?v=KtiIZnnW0LM&

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:
No, Harry and his pal climb Cirque Gully (sometimes rendered Siart Gully ) in this film. They just don't know where they are!

In reply to Dave Hewitt:



the little rocky ridge that juts out southwards from the Kips slope of Dumyat, visible from road level on the east side of Stirling?

I tried this as well! The surface layer is shockingly disposable and in complete contrast to the Sheriffmuir Buttress on the othe side of the hill.

In reply to IanMcC:

Hi Ian - thanks for the correction - I have been up this gully in summer and thought it looked familiar plus the opening picture is definitely Siart. It is the site of a Geocache that a lot of people felt was rather challenging so I got asked to accompany them up it. Is Raeburn's the next gully further back down the main glen?

In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

I think so, Keith. It is up an obvious quite deep gully to a chockstone, belay on that then a traverse up and left across an exposed slab. Jim said he soloed it in his trainers. I've only done it on a rope. It's not too bad if you approach it in the right spirit. There's a "direct finish" above the chockstone which looks both hard and loose.