UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 448

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 Ally Smith 18 Oct 2015
Pace-holder; stats when i get my laptop working, editing text on my tablet is a ballache
In reply to Ally Smith:

In haste from Gatwick...

No training apart from one session (Brookes routes to 7a+). I feel the need to pretend that the 4miles I cycle in commuting every day counts as exercise, though I know it doesn’t. Rubbish week of training but delivered two well-received training courses in London for the day job, plus a Reel Rock screening and this year’s Women’s Climbing Symposium, which was hugely successful. Both are useful for plan B. Week in Morocco and hopefully getting back on the wagon...

Tintin
 Dandan 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally,
Reasonable week but I still cant shake this elbow ache...

M: Exercise ball core
T: Routes indoor, was going to try some hard stuff but my sensible head won so I did 4x4 up to 7a, failed on the 7a set though, got 1 and 2 half reps, good benchmark for improvement.
W:
T: Coaching with Robin at UCR; Really good session, routes up to 7b, elbow felt pretty decent but wouldn't want to push it further. Discovered that if I am going to turn my leg in to do a drop knee, i need to fully commit or not bother, I tend to turn my leg in a little which just looks slightly coquettish and does nothing for my technique.
First experience of foot on campussing, could be a very useful tool!
F: DIY club, fitted wardrobe bits and bobs
S: Boulder indoor; Decided not to do Winspit for the 4th consecutive week, good idea as it turns out, my wife was knackered from a long week so her project would have been a struggle. Tried to do 4x4 around V4 but their grades are all over the shop and my elbow was complaining so did 4x2 in the end.
S: DIY club, fitted wardrobe is finished! Well, it still needs some doors and a mirror but at least we can put stuff in it!

I'm starting to get some sensations around the tennis elbow muscles which i'm guessing is the steroids wearing off. I'm going to be very careful to stop these sensations turning into pain, the DIY is mostly done for this year, just painting the hall to do which is fine, so I can go steady on the elbows and treat them right.
The dull elbow ache was not fixed by a sports massage (wishful thinking) but my physio thinks it may be tight forearms causing the issue so more stretching needed there. She thinks it may be a tendon thing so again, I just need a solid rest period, which may well be this coming week, the sooner the better really.

Oh, and Magnus Midtbo has been checking in on how we are all getting on from the RocUp trip last month, he is going to help me build a muscle building/antagonist weights program! Sweet!
 hms 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
bit of a flat week.

M - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
W - cycle commute. Fingerboard session - 2 sets, 1 easy 1 hard.
T - Armistice, trying out shunting as a way of working Remembrance. Lots of progress on the route, took a long long time but think I've all the hand moves and many of the feet worked out. Still stuck on the very top. If/when this goes it's going to be 7c!
F - Bloc circuits, lots and lots of circuits.
S - shoulder rehab, S&C, planks.
S - had been planning on another Armistice session, but ticketing cock-up meant the family day out which we had tried to organise for yesterday got postponed to today & trampled my aspirations. Fingerboard session - 3 sets, 1 easy 2 hard.

Shunting was a good experience - hope to repeat possibly end off this week whilst I can still remember the moves pretty well. Only other news is that I have finally got round to ordering an extremely thick belay jacket in preparation for Chulilla so I don't get cold and grumpy. You're not going to like the colour though Ally!!
Post edited at 18:52
OP Ally Smith 18 Oct 2015
In reply to hms:

> Only other news is that I have finally got round to ordering an extremely thick belay jacket in preparation for Chulilla so I don't get cold and grumpy. You're not going to like the colour though Ally!!

Oh dear - are we going to have his & hers red downie look going on?
 hms 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

the colour of mine called 'jam'. I'll report back when it arrives, but we're definitely talking something like raspberry. If you're planning on taking your orange one, the clash could be quite horrendous!
 Nick Russell 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, looking forward to the stats. I've had a tiring but pretty decent week.

M - Bloc. Worked my way round several of the blue circuit, a couple of yellows and a purple (hardest circuit). Core.
T - 8.3km run.
W - Nothing. (Work social: paintballing so not entirely sedentary!)
T - Avon Gorge, Suspension Bridge Buttress. Climbed GT Special (E4 5c) (been wanting to do that for ages) and then Nemo Me Impune Lacessit (E5 6a). Not sure I can honestly claim my first E5 (it's very soft) but chuffed all the same!
F - TCA. Smashed the black 6C on the mothership, wondering what the fuss was about the past 2 sessions. The ticked the green 7A (left side) second go and the white 7A on about the fourth. Core.
S - Not much, filming a promotional video for MoveGB. Various amounts of yoga, kettlebells and pilates were involved and it left me knackered!
S - 6km run in the morning then more filming. Zumba and spin today, finished late, still knackered.

Weight: 66.2kg

I felt like I was going particularly well this week, at least as strong as I've ever been. It's amazing what progress I've made in the bouldering with just over 2 weeks of focus there. It comes back pretty quickly! But apparently I haven't lost much in endurance, judging by the two pumpy routes on Thursday.

The plan from here is another week of focus on bouldering (2/3 sessions, depending on weather at the weekend) then switch over to routes/circuits for 4 weeks (at which point I go to America for a week, which will inevitably be light on the training). I'll get the weight back down during that time (currently 2kg heavier than my low about 9 weeks ago), since I think that's better done during endurance phases (other opinions welcome).
Post edited at 22:26
 J B Oughton 18 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Solid week, pleased to get my three sessions in again. It's feeling a lot more manageable this year, I think I've just got better at using my time, plus having the annual pass gives me more motivation to drop in for quick sessions.

Mon - rest
Tue - bouldering, decent session but nothing special, did most of the 6b-7a circuit. Only had an hour and a half so it felt a bit rushed. Didn't warm up sell enough which had an impact on the session.
Wed - rest
Thurs - nothing
Fri - First round of the winter bouldering series. I'd been out the previous two nights in a row so had very low expectations with my crippling hangover. Flashed 22 of the problems plus one second go and one third go, giving me 230/300. Thought that seemed too low to have done well but I found out today I won. Really chuffed because its the first local comp I've won here and I felt like I was climbing really well. Lots of others managed to do harder problems I couldn't manage but I got some flukey flashes in to swing things my way.
Sat - rest
Sun - back at the wall. Quite a casual session because I went with a non-climber friend, but I got some good stuff done. Finished with some core and more weighted pull-ups.

Very pleased with how my climbing is going at the moment, I just need something to focus it on like a project or comp because I'm struggling to find motivation in just 'getting strong for the sake of it'.

Cheers, Jake
Post edited at 23:26
In reply to Ally Smith: Decent week.

M - work
T - Yoga and Wall. OK session on problems, ticked one I'd been trying over several sessions.
W - Wall. Short session, warm up, 4x12 on blocs then some conditioning.
T - Yoga and Wall. Another OK session working problems.
F - Yoga.
S - Sport. Worked Obscene Toilet (7c) @ Raven Tor (Miller's Dale). All the moves in 2 section, 3 overlaps. Just need to get back before I forget the beta.
S - Easy Trad @ Stanage Plantation in the damp and mist. 6x VS (1 new) plus repeat ascent of The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a).

Probably need to try and up the volume and intensity of training over the next month now I'm properly back into things.
 Ian Bell 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning all

STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40

Tues £ Bouldering @ Arch North. c8 each of the V1 & the V2/3 to warm up. Managed 3 of the V3-V5 and had fun working another couple.

Thur £ skipped bouldering as arm was a bit tweaky. 20 mins core and 15 mins yoga from a couple of good apps. Felt the fact I hadn£t done any yoga for a while!

Sat £ Bouldering in Dartmoor for the first time (Bonehill & Houndtor). Did about a dozen problems up to V3 ish and tried some harder ones before cold and lack of skin intervened. That granite is sharp! Pick of the bunch was climb Sharks Fin on Houndtor.

Sun £ No skin to boulder and a bit colder so checked out the otter / butterfly sanctuary in Buckfastleigh (recommended) and went home. 20 mins core on the app.

Bit of a disappointing week for volume with only 2 sessions. Next week should be better although I said that a week ago!
Post edited at 09:03
 planetmarshall 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Easing back into training for Winter this week... at least that was the plan

Mon - Rest
Tue - Rest
Wed - Rest
Thu - Core. Tabata - 4 sets 20secs on/10 off ice axe dumbell reach, ice axe chinup, ring dips, weighted box stepups.
Fri - Drive to Skye. The mountains were calling, and all that.
Sat - First serious attempt at one of this year's goals, the Cuillin Ridge traverse. Solo and on sight.
In total managed about 1/3 of the ridge (Garbheinn to Sgurr Alisdair). Stunning day but the dark side of the ridge was partially frozen after a cold night, making moving quickly very difficult. A combination of this, various route finding errors and the toll of a 9 hour drive and about 3 hours sleep meant it took me about 3 hours to reach the TD gap, when I really needed to be aiming for less than 2. Downclimb into the TD gap (TD Gap East Side (Summer) (VD) was pretty hairy - only about 10m but the rock was greasy and dirty. I may take some 6mm cord on the next attempt. TD Gap Original Route (Summer) (S) was great, however.
After taking far too long over this section of the ridge, escaped down the Sgumain stone shoot back to Glenbrittle.

Discovered on the way home that the Sligachan was closed for refurbishment, which would have been a pretty miserable end to the day had I succeeded. Maybe it just wasn't to be.

Total about 15km and 2000m ascent.

A few photos from the day - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jlhk863z24cl3jo/AADAp_fPvTN1cXKyL4vMc-JKa?dl=0

Lots of lessons learned for the next attempt - good route finding is key.
Sun - Headed to Newtyle Quarry for some tooling, but got caught up in a rescue in progress for an injured climber. Drove home.
Post edited at 10:18
OP Ally Smith 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Late stats

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=626392

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of
physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards acheiving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/73040942 - wow - look how fast Ondra climbs!

Dandan82; Good to hear that the elbow aches are abating – congrats on your anniversary
Nick Russell; great volume soloing on the grit, something I found really good for moving smoothly and covering big distances. Shame you didn’t stick it out and do more on the Sunday?
Biscuit; stick with the S&C stuff – neglecting this is a shortcut to injury for the desk bound. Did you pick a 7b+ project yet?
Spenser; Welcome! Core and fingerboarding will stand you in good stead once the ankle is mended. Good specific goals too.
AJM; Have a great trip. See you on the flip side – I hope Kalymnos has enough coffee stocked to get Ali out of bed at 6am for a week?
The Ex-Engineer; good lot of volume over the week, but the intensity looks all over the place. Aero-power is to be saved for the last few weeks before a trip/peak, not as part of base conditioning/aero-cap.
alexm198; welcome back. Congrats on the job – did you find a partner and get out this week?
Planetmarshall; good last couple of days and Kaly and some quarried grit classics. Resting or training this week?
Hms; close but no cigar at the weekend, but great to see you getting a high-point on CC. Can’t be long now?
Ian Bell; get your 4 planned sessions in this week?
Ally Smith; keep plugging away. Don’t forget the rehab, core and antag works. Repeat: stay off the cakes and don’t forget to bolt some newbies!
Joughton; low volume, high quality. More of the same this week?
Exile; good volume this week. Did you make the most of the weekend sunshine?
Richard Popp; did you find a partner for your week off?
Joyce; how did you get on at Almscliffe?
Mattrm; yet more DIY & dish-tucks! Have you seen any benefit from the core exercise?
Flopsicle; how’s the knee?
0.5viking; legs of jelly better this week?
Humperdink; Great comeback marathon from your wife. How is the longer daily run regime working out?
Just Tintin; skin trashed from 2 days on the grit? Have fun in Morocco

Absentees; Tyler; Mutl3y;
OP Ally Smith 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Another good week of progress; double day of redpointing at the weekend was scuppered by pain tolerance on little holds and nothing to do with shoulder or finger injuries. Hoping the proj will stay dry until Saturday?

MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix?
Do some progressive headpointing leading up to the Ogwen project.
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Well Done finish, 8b (one last chance?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings

<74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip

STG (next week)
- FB Benchmarking - TICK
- Start some gradual weight loss - TICK
- Rehab – should have done more.
- Do some proper core training – see above.
- Maintain sub 75kg weight – just, but again could be dehydration?

Last week:
M - 8min core app, ball rehab + core, 2min plank, hamstring stretch, 5kg pulley exercises rehab.
T - FB benchmarking session – feedback from coach was favourable. Still room to improve on an-cap and finger strength (98% BW on BM1K 20mm edge. 100% on 20mm campus rung). Aero-power good, but aero-cap out of kilter (bombed out on lactate curve) – no surprises given recent lack on time on rock. Reckons I’m still good for MM in Chulilla.
W - Light core and rehab work.
T - Work meal. Slept very well.
F - Light core and rehab work.
S - Malham – attempts at WDF fell short as I couldn’t get up Zoolook again. 2 goes ended at short stab to pocket. General incompetence of setting off and being caught out by sunshine. Moose smashed it though, so no excuses. Luke made short work of Bat route and Steve Mac got high on his 9b proj – inspiring scenes
S - Repeat performance on Zoolook/WDF. Bailed when finger pulp was too mashed to continue. Greasier than yesterday. Rich did Raining Bats and Dogs and was decidedly chipper for a dour Northerner!

74.8kg/6.6% BF this morning, but again is likely a cheat due to protein shake dinner/yesterday's excess coffee consumption. Hope to hold out against lardiness this week and get one more chance on Zoolook/WDF next Saturday?
In reply to Ally Smith: Your analysis is probably spot on, I've been trying to maintain volume and motivatuon without spending all my time on the same few hard problems which means things have been rather unstructured.

The sets of 12 different 6-move V2-3 problems I did this week were probably better than last weeks 4x4s.

What I really need to do is get partners sorted for reps on routes.
 planetmarshall 19 Oct 2015
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> What I really need to do is get partners sorted for reps on routes.

If you're based in the Peak I'm happy to partner up, though I'm largely moving to a Winter climbing schedule now.

In reply to Ally Smith: Your analysis is probably spot on. I have been focusing on maintaining volume and motivation whilst trying to avoid just working hard problems which unfortunately means things have been fairly unstructured.

This weeks sets of 12x 6-move V2-3 problems were probably much better than last week's 4x4s. However what I really need is to sort some partners and do reps on routes...

 Nick Russell 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
> Nick Russell; great volume soloing on the grit, something I found really good for moving smoothly and covering big distances. Shame you didn't stick it out and do more on the Sunday?

Yep, I really enjoyed grit soloing and would definitely spend more days doing that, especially now that it's getting too cold to stand around faffing with a rope and gear! And yes, I am regretting leaving when I did, but I won't complain if that's the biggest thing to go wrong during the autumn season...
 biscuit 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally.

A week of studying, writing and more studying. Only one session managed and that was indoors. It was quite good though. Hard steep bouldering.

Warmed up up to V4 on the UKC side - 30 problems all first time.

Steep side - 3 x V1, 3 x V2, 3 x V3 all flashed. One V3 i just couldn't do a move on - and then it didn't get any easier after that. 4 x V4 (3 flash, 1 worked). V5 was my sticking point again. Only two of them and made progress on each but a way off going yet. I did a couple of moves that made me feel like i was getting somewhere with the steep stuff and i feel like i'm improving.

Other than that i've done lots of streching and physio to combat the effects of sitting on my arse all day. Back of my fitness pal to combat study snacking. Need to work my average out for this week and post it up and then track losses from there.

This week will be two sessions, but probably indoors. Going for a benchmarking session on Tuesday and a boulder on thursday.
 spenser 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Reasonable week training wise, didn't get as much done as hoped though as I felt as though I'd over done it last monday evening.
Monday: Training for 1 hour, fingerboarding/ core
Tuesday: MSc work and lecture, 1.2 miles on crutches to get home.
Wednesday: Nothing
Thursday: Fancy dinner with work, managed to ditch the crutches for the evening and not feel any significant pain, may have been the wine.
Friday: Reel Rock, bit of a walk round matlock bath
Saturday: Training at the wall for 1.5 hours, fingerboarding/ core. Lots of physio exercises too. I can now dish for 90 seconds (started my injured period at 60s max) and hold an L-Sit for 10 seconds (couldn't do this at all) so the training is obviously doing something. I've also got a physio session booked in for the 30th to see how I'm coming along/ provide any pointers about when I can start climbing and cycling again.
Sunday: 30 minutes of physio
Plan for this week:
Monday, wednesday and friday evenings: 1-1.5 hours at wall training. Walk back from uni (mixing crutches and actual walking as necessary).
Long Term goal: Lead E4 consistently onsight.
Medium Term goal: Redpoint F7a
Short Term goal: Get my ankle sorted (broken 5 weeks ago on tuesday, estimated 3-8 week recovery time) so that I can recommence cycling to work and climbing. I can now walk short distances without crutches, still have a fairly restricted range of motion compared to my other foot though. Going to try cycling round the street to see if that works now.
Edit: Just managed to cycle about 400-500m, it felt a little unnatural but didn't hurt until I came to unclipping. Will get hold of some flats ASAP so I can do the 2 mile commute to work. So happy!
Post edited at 18:19
 Humperdink 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

If the book says its E5 then its E5 - great effort! (Don't worry two editions of the guidebook later and it'll be E6 anyways.......)
 Humperdink 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally, Can't really comment on the one run a day plan as I didn't really stick to it last week but I did start doing my longer run in the morning rather than evening.

M: Drive home from Eindhoven, tired!
Tu: pm - 9/10M steady in 65:04
W: am - 9M in 60:17, pm - 4/5M home from work in 31:38
Th: am - 9M in 60:09, pm - 4/5M home from work in 31:07
F: lunchtime - easy 4/5M in 36:03, managed to find the scales and weigh myself!
Sa: am - grass session on a hilly loop which took roughly 4mins to run round. Session was 2x loop, 3xloop, 3xloop (with 3mins recovery) then 4 x 45 second hill with jog back recovery. Good warm up cool down to give 11/12M total. Was running ok and starting to feel a bit fitter. pm - 5M steady in 35:47
Su: left hamstring tight, 14M Steady in 1:41:31

Weight 62.2Kg
Total Mileage: 73M
Switching the longer run to the am seemed to work quite nicely but still ended up with some doubles as playing catch-up for missing Monday.

Short/ Med Goals (Up to Christmas):
1) Get weight down to 61Kg (60Kg as stretch target)
2) build mileage up to 80-85M (maybe 90M)
3) 10K PB

 mattrm 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Errrrr, nope doesn't really do much for my core. If I did 500 a day that'd make a difference I reckon. But 100 is to easy. It's really just box ticking to keep my exercise averages up. Lame I know. I guess there's some kind of maintenance/tick over benefit. As always thanks for doing the stats. Much appreciated.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st 6lbs

M - 250 dish tucks
T - Indoor bouldering (general bouldering up to v3)
W - Indoor bouldering (4x4s)
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - DIY
S - DIY

Monthly Avg - 78%
Yearly Avg - 67%

In London on business last week, so massively over-ate at restaurants. I was feeling keen at the start of the week, hence the 250. After a couple of sessions down Mile End wall (where the grades are super soft, least that's my excuse for knocking out some V3s) I went back down to doing dish tucks. Oops. Meant to go out for a run, but just couldn't be arsed. Feeling super lazy at the moment. But again, hope I'm doing enough to keep ticking over as Dave Mac suggests, so when the new year comes and there's that spurt of Jan/Feb motivation and I won't be starting from nothing.

There's quite a big list of stuff to finish in the kitchen/house. I'd really like to get the kitchen done by christmas. But that is going to involve me sorting out a sparky some time in the next couple of weeks.

Oh and I'm staying in Malham in the next few days. Not climbing sadly, but looking forward to heading up to the crag to take a look.

 Solsbury 20 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally et al, I have not found a partner per se but have a possibility for a Portland trip. Keen to do as much but mainly from home in Bath, need to see what happens with the weather which does not look to good at the minute but see which way it goes. I have some college work to catch up on but also want to use the week to write a training plan and kick start running. If it it does end up sunny then all that can go on hold. Looking for to a break been tough for the last eight weeks but looks good from here on.

Still battling at work/starting course but had three good TCA sessions, been enjoying bouldering since returning end of August, definitely stronger better it's a slow gain but accelerating, ticked most the F6a/6b circuit, think there is four outstanding. Keep bashing on with shoulder exercises and keeping forearms healthy, the two seem to go together for me.

Rich
 Exile 21 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for doing fit club Ally.

No - no time on weekend to get out.

2015 aims:

Winter VI 7 - Tick.

Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.

Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Probably missed the Lakes trad' boat now

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: am - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power)
T: Rest
W: am - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power) pm 50min road run (Winter endurance)
T: pm - 1hr 30min warm up and limit bouldering (Power)
F: am - 40min dry tooling (Winter endurance & technique)
S: am - 1hr 40min road ride with some proper cyclists - hard (Winter endurance)
S: pm - 2hrs at Scout Scar. Tried the moves on the 7b+ but we were miles off - quite a shock after doing ok on 7bs. Top roped on Telegraph Road, 6c+.

A good training week but suspect I've done a bit too much - see what happens this week!
 flopsicle 21 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

|Thanks for the stats Ally!

My knee is weird. Fine some days then dodgy, doesn't seem to correlate with what I've done or haven't done. Don't know if this rings any bells for anyone but it'll be fine then if I've sat or slept with it bent and go to straighten it, it's very owey and straightening ends up a very slow process ('cos I'm a wimp!). When I'm doing stuff like running or biking it doesn't hurt - no issues, when I try to get up from a squat it just feels ruddy useless but again that might be me wimping! I've been swapping legs a lot climbing, or pushing up with my hands. The other thing is that it's clicking - sometimes umpteen times a day, sometimes once in a day or two but it never clicked before I fell and when it clicks there's a sudden pain (like stepping on something small and sharp barefoot - obviously not on my foot but in my knee!). I hit the front of my knee but the pain is right inside and almost towards the back. It was fine for the 5k on sunday, really good monday and most of tuesday then sore enough to wake me up twice last night, very clicky this morning but fine since. I don't get it! Obviously if it doesn't sort shortly I'm back to my GP so not looking for diagnosis here just that I'm really confused and if any of the above rings any bells for anyone it'd be nice to hear.

Anyway last week;

Mon - school run 1.4 miles, felt very icky so nowt else

Tues - Nowt, felt rubbish

Weds - had anti icky pills and felt better so did eve lead climb as planned but went steady and got a mate leading for the first time whilst I had a belay break.

Thurs - Nowt

Fri - climbed easy climbs that suited me but lots of them, feeling better in myself so felt a bit stir crazy so did 50+ laps of easier routes.

Sat - Same as above but bouldered new v2 v3 circuit, got all bar 3 - one of which the last move seemed somewhat swingy onto my right arm, with my left elbow sore and left knee owey I concluded I was NOT going to swing onto my lovely jubbly right arm!

Sun - 5 k chip timed with my amazing kid! She ran it in under 35 mins, won her age group, the age group above and came 15th out of 38 (mix of adults and kids). She ran lovely, not freaky fast, just lovely - how a 7 yr old should run, with petrol left for a bike ride, bouncy castle and lots of play! I was a very proud drinks carrier.
 flopsicle 21 Oct 2015
In reply to Dandan:

What's foot campussing?
 Joyce 21 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning Campers,

Thanks for keeping this rag tag band in some sort of semblance of order Ally (no easy task with us rabble). Underhand is as good as done - more core strength will help.

Got a Fit Club question here: anyone got any good core exercises that I could purloin? And how about exercises for building wide and press move strength? Answers gratefully accepted by carrier pigeon (or on here if you're running low on pigeons just now).

I'll stop blathering...

Training Diary WC 12/10/15
Eey oop, Yorkshire!

Monday £ Moved a bit more dirt. Easy Run: 9.1K in 45:22 at 4:57m/km pace with 329m of ascent 4:32m/km GAP. Mixed on and off road in the dark, Super fun, especially running the rooty singletrack.
Tuesday £ TCA with Tom: ticked six more yellows (four to go) including a slopey one which had flummoxed me so far (a slopey weakness for me). Made some progress on a 7A sloper jobber on the Mothership and then a 7B. Finished with 30 mins of Aero Pow reps (ish) 1 on/ 1 off with Tom. First three reps were of the 6c+ on the steep board and then into the juggy 6a+ until boxed. Then dropped down to the 6a+. to finish. This was a bit too easy actually and next time, I need to get back on the less steep 6b as gives a right good continuous pump.
Wednesday £ 400m Progression Intevals (1 min rests): 3 x 80s; 3 x 78s; 2 x 76s. On or up on 4/8. Slow tonight, no real oomph.
Thursday – TCA: warmed into this one; peaked late with 3 Blues (one flash) (the new hardest circuit) and an excellent steep and slopey hard purple comp problem. Finished with 30 mins of 1 on/1 off on the circuit board but can’t remember the details.
Friday £ Drive to God£s Own County.
Saturday £ Ahh, the Cliff: mega 3 £ hour siege of Underhand (7B+). Did it to the last hard move twice before cutting loose and losing control. Doh. Well impressed with my new found fitness and therefore ability to keep hurling myself at hard stuff. A gorgeous afternoon, good banter from some stinkin£ students and, ooh, the grit, the grit, the grit! Core went first.
Sunday £ Almscliff Pt 2: back on Underhand (7B+) in the rain. Top out was wet so worked out a harder variation that I could pull on and then failed enthusiastically on the dry roof as my core was still spanked from yesterday. So, cut my losses and went for a play on Crusis (7B) and had a great time. Got all but the last two moves on this slopey, steep thang. Will be back for this as I know it£ll go when I£m less tired. Another great session.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership. Only 1 Red done but they£re now Blue and I£ve done 3 already. Just 4 Yellows to go and some progress made on the Mothership 7As.
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff this weekend £ close as can be £ more core needed!
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon £ really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting! Nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week £ nope.
Weight = 69.8kg

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

P.S. Thanks for the props last week Humperdink, I always read your posts with interest to see how the experts do this thing called running. I'm picking up hints all the time so consider yourself partly responsible for me 5K PB
Post edited at 22:41
 Dandan 22 Oct 2015
In reply to flopsicle:
Foot on campussing is done on a campus board that is mounted against a wall so it has a lower backboard with some thin rails or footholds on. My local wall campus board is on an overhead panel that bridges between the two side walls so it has just thin air beneath it, which is no good. I imagine you could place a chair or something below a free hanging board to have a similar effect, not something I can do at my local wall though!

I imagine there are different 'games' you can play while foot on campussing, but essentially you make sequenced or random hand movements on the campus rungs while using your feet for a little extra support, its easier and less injurious than full-on campussing, but still surprisingly hard!
Ally or any of the Randall-disciples on here could probably explain better...
Post edited at 07:02
 Dandan 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Joyce:

I posted this last week, I've been doing it for a few months now and I love it:
https://www.necc.mass.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/ath-swissball.pdf

Aside from some of the diagrams not being hugely helpful in describing the exercises (if someone can explain the 'fire hydrant' exercise to me I'd be grateful!) it's pretty comprehensive and seems to have been quite well researched.

It's structured into a 10 or 12 week program that gets progressively harder, don't be fooled by how easy week 1 feels, it gets seriously nails!
What I like about it is that aside from working the main core muscles, the exercise ball element of it means that all your stabilising muscles get a good thrashing too - when I first did the side planks, I was lucky to go 15 seconds without wobbling my way off the ball, now I'm doing 45 seconds without even thinking about the balance, just concentrating on holding the position, that's got to be helpful.
 0.5viking 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally for doing FC, sounds like you’re well on your way for holiday preparation! Legs were much better this week .

Weight: 68.7kg
M: school, but managed a quick outdoor bouldering session doing all the moves on 6A, 6A+ and 6B+ but none of the topouts, the top of the stone is convex, and the actual climbing overhanging, so you need to stick to crystals with your hands and heel, which I didn’t manage.
T:rest/school
W: climbing indoors, did a couple 5b warmups, then went on the 6c project, planned to climb past crux, but fell on the crux, though not powered out as last week.
T: climbing outdoors, repeated to of the 6’es from Sunday as a warmup, then wanted to try a trad 6 onsight, but started to get dark and trad taking long time, one of my mates led a 7- and then me and the other one toproped it in almost darkness (quite hard to spot footholds in the dark on a black wall..)
F: climbing indoors, first day of a coaching course, need to show own ability
S: climbing indoors, lot of theory, but also technique and endurance training
S: climbing indoors, 3 training programs, one for beginner children, one for beginner adults, including strength training and one for experienced youths
OP Ally Smith 22 Oct 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

> What's foot campussing?

Foot-on campus'ing is pretty much what Dandan82 said, but rather than being "an random sequence of hand movements" you'll get some very measurable improvement if you stick with the same pattern each time.

Start both hands on bottom rung #1 - feet on a foothold under the board, or on a chair etc.
LH to #3
RH to #5
Match LH & RH on #5
RH to #3
LH to #2
RH to #1
Match LH & RH on #1

Repeat ad nauseum, leading with alternate RH/LH.

Exercises:
Aero-cap - 60s on/60s off x15 sets (tune the intensity by using bigger rungs/better footholds to make it easier, or smaller rungs, fewer fingers per hold to make it harder. Aiming for a conversational level of pump at set 5; dull pump by set 10 and working quite hard by set 15 - panting and sweating, not so pumped you can't hold on)

Aero-power - go to failure using above sequence. Record max time. Rest same amount of time, go to failure. Repeat with fixed 1:1 ratio of work/rest until 8 sets completed.

Data geek your heart out by recording it all and plotting on spreadsheets and trying to correlate it all with your current OS limit - fail miserably because you're not a sport scientist and ask an expert (Tom Randall) to do all the geekery for you.

Alex also mentions FO campus in his stamina training video for the Depot:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GiFnleR9OE
 planetmarshall 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

> ...editing text on my tablet is a ballache

Have you tried using our hands? Ba-boom, tssh.. etc.

 Dandan 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Do you set your feet and leave them in one position while doing each set or do you move and twist as needed to make the moves easier? I guess what I mean is do you do it purely 'front-on' or twist side to side?

I do love a good stat, going to have to set up my campus board at home...
OP Ally Smith 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Dandan:

I stay front on, leaving my feet planted on one hold (a wooden rail).

I've a knackered old pair of shoes reserved for this to save wearing out a good pair.

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