UKC

Hi folks,

I was just looking for some information if possible. Me and my girlfriend are looking to climb the south face direct route on Naranjo de bulnes but we have only brought 50m ropes over with us. I've been reading mixed reports about the length of rope that we are able to climb and abseil the route, some say it's only possible on 60m but others say that it's possible with 50's. does anyone who's climbed this route able to offer advice please?

In reply to chmckay:

Did it 30 years ago on twin 50s and it was fine. IIRC it was a bit of a stretch from the top of the climb proper to the station on the upper scramble, but it went. Knot the ends on the way down! The top really is a scramble, so with a bit of confidence and creativity you can work something out. Probably

In reply to chmckay:

50s are fine. There's quite a lot of fixed gear so you can set up intermdiates if you have to.

In reply to chmckay:

Did a route on there 4 years ago on 60's, but don't remember being short of rope on the descent. I've justed checked my quidebook and although it mentions 60's being needed for descents for other areas it doesn't mention anything specific for that descent which could be taken as a positive. You could also ask around at the refuge (if it's open at this time of year?).

In reply to chmckay:

Hiya,

I didn't climb this route but the principal abseil from the summit goes over it. 50s should be fine but be careful. ~the rock is also quite snaggy there. From the summit you scramble down about 50/60m to the first abseil point which is surprisingly hard to see but then the next two are fairly obvious and that's it.

Amazing place, enjoy it and get a photo of the Maria at the top!

H

In reply to chmckay:

Hi folks, thanks for all the info, we done the route yesterday (on 50's). There was more than enough for us to climb and abseil on 50m ropes. Totally amazing route, the fourth pitch was pretty interesting having never climbed canizoles lol