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Good easy climbs for a starter

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 demdyke 19 Oct 2015
Hi. My 15 year old son has recently got interested in rock climbing. So far we've been on indoor walls only. I live in Carlisle and want to take him onto a real rock face. Any suggestions for a few easy climbs which I can lead and he can second, and then to reverse?
 Trangia 19 Oct 2015
In reply to demdyke:

Middle Fell Buttress in Langdale - probably one of the best intro's to trad climbing near to you. There is also some good beginner trad at Shepherds Crag, Borrowdale.

Enjoy!

PS I'm impressed by your profile. A 21 year old with a 15 year old son is good going!
 d_b 19 Oct 2015
In reply to Trangia:

Doves nest crag and glaciated slab are other good Borrowdale options.
 John Kelly 19 Oct 2015
In reply to demdyke:

Middlefell is a good option- avoid first pitch by scrambling up left out of middlefell gully as the 3 options for first pitch are either, from the right, poorly protected, difficult or possibly loose. The next 3 pitches are easily protected with obvious gear placements and gentle angle, perfect for first trad lead
 Martin Bennett 19 Oct 2015
In reply to demdyke:

Being in Carlisle obviously North Lakes is easier for you. For single pitch climbs the obvious (but often busy, best on a week day) answer is Brown Slabs at Shepherd's Crag in Borrowdale. Quite a few easy climbs there, as well as further along the crag. A similar but quieter and less polished experience is to be had at Glaciated Slabs at the entrance to Combe Ghyll. Convenient parking (£3 honesty box) and a pleasant stroll will get you a wealth of short easy (D and VD) climbs. And no crowds.

If you get more adventurous Raven Crag in Combe Ghyll has the excellent Corvus (D) and Raven Crag Buttress (VD) longer climbs, and Dove's Nest Crag, on the sunny side of the combe, has nice climbing too, especially Outside Route (D). I seem to recall I thought Adam's Rib a bit stiff for V Diff.

South Crag at Castle Rock of Triermain has a few Diff and V Diff climbs too, tho I can't recall what the protection is like on them.

If you do go as far South as Langdale for the above mentioned Middle Fell Buttress, Route One on Scout Crag (VD) is practically roadside and very good, though poorly protected.

As you progress to harder things when VD and Severe maybe even MVS become attractions you might have a look at the rather shy Kettle Crag, also in Langdale - doesn't get a lot of attention but has a lot to offer in that grade range and has not too long an approach, and a pleasant one at that. In the same area Long Scar has many single pitch climbs that might suit, and a short approach from Wrynose Pass. Once again I can't vouch for the protection - maybe someone else knows more?

Sorry - rambled on a bit there! Happy hunting.
 BnB 19 Oct 2015
In reply to demdyke:

Truss Buttress at Gouther crag is only 30 minutes from Penrith and an absolute belter at vdiff.
 DerwentDiluted 19 Oct 2015
In reply to demdyke:
Eden Valley has some good options,
Headend quarry
Most routes
Armathwaite
Esp
Kingfisher (VD)Bullgine Run (VD)

Scratchmere Scar
Pheasant Groove (D)

Avoid
No match for crag id:19043
Until you enjoy loose rock!

I'd also add that there is some tasty looking stuff in West Northhumberland and in Dumfries and Galloway but never having been to either place I can't make any specific suggestions.
Post edited at 20:56
 LGraham 19 Oct 2015
In reply to demdyke:
I'm in a vaguely similar position. I would recommend Scratchmere or Headend Quarry. Both in FRCC Lake District and South Lakes. Scratchmere has loads of trees at the top, Headend has stakes. There is also Church Crag (FRCC Eastern Crags) which has slabby routes with bolts at the top and a nice view. They're all short with easy access to the top if he needs any help.
Personally I think the routes on Glaciated Slab haven't got that much gear and I think when you're just starting it's probably good to place plenty of gear. I would say it's a better crag for a slightly later date.
Post edited at 23:38
In reply to demdyke:
If you're in Carlisle you're only an hour and a half away from gods own county and gritstone heaven.

Rylstone is the place you want: presidents slab is probably the best single pitch diff in England. Dental slab at severe is just perfect. Make a full day of it and walk along the moor to rolling gate for more 3* grit heaven in the form of rolling gate buttress at MS. If that lot don't get him psyched for climbing, nothing will...

Cheers
Gregor
Post edited at 00:26
OP demdyke 20 Oct 2015
In reply to Trangia:

Cheers. I started early.
 spenser 20 Oct 2015
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

I can absolutely recommend visiting Meikle Ross and Thirlstane to anyone climbing VS or above.
Crag Lough is good but the easy routes there are in my opinion quite poor. Don't go there in the winter, it's north facing and quite exposed to the wind so will feel baltic, in fact it felt baltic in the middle of summer!
In reply to LGraham:

I can remember when the trees at the top of Scrathmere were little more than saplings, and rigging a decent belay required cunning and a lot of faith - but that was before the first North of England guide was published!

 Rog Wilko 21 Oct 2015
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Hi Martin,
How yer doing?
Interested in your comment on Adams Rib. You might like to see my comment on the neighbouring Adams Slab !
As for Castle rock of Triermain - that V Diff Gangway Climb is more or less a solo.
I think your suggestion of Brown Slabs is good - although the rock is very worn and a bit shiny the holds and pro are generally encouraging.
Rgds
Rog

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