UKC

I've got a friend that has been climbing for a few weeks who's left arm stops halfway along their forearm.

We have been using a Mammut Smart for top roping which works well as it auto-locking allowing the hand to be safe sliding up the dead rope.
The advantage over a Grigri is that the release for lowering can be operated by the forearm.

However after a few attempts we've found it is difficult to pay out any rope for a leading scenario.

Anyone seen any techniques or different devices which may be useful?

Thanks.

In reply to Gareth T:

Can't give you any direct advice, but this fellow may be able to help:
http://www.jamieandrew.com/

In reply to Gareth T:

As long as the belayer can be reasonably mobile pretty much any non-grabbing device can safely be used one-handed, although it is more difficult and needs more care. Rope can be fed through the device slowly by walking backwards with only a very light grip on the dead end, and actual slack can be given by walking forwards again. Good belayers will do this to some extent all the time even when they have both hands available.

Multi-pitch belaying while tied into a stance, and other situations where mobility at the foot of the climb isn't easy, would obviously be much harder,

In reply to Mark Collins:

or Kev Shields?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Yeah probably.

In reply to john arran:

That's brilliant advice John

In reply to Gareth T:

Another option might be something like a ropeman with a stiffened cord/tape loop placed above the belay device so slack can be pulled out using the forearm. Set it so it slides toward the device freely but grabs when pulled away from it. It would prevent taking in slack through the device so that would need bearing in mind and working around.

If your friend has the right hand it should possible to pay out slack with the GriGri. Slide hand right down dead rope, pinch it between back two fingers and hand, use front two fingers and thumb to pull out slack with left arm resting on the lever if necessary. It'd be slow but as John says, pay out steadily then physically move around to control available slack.

jk

In reply to john arran:

I like this idea, it's great for bolted routes.

I'd just like to add the caveat that for trad climbing you need to be careful not to move too far away from the climb or you risk exerting an outward pull on the gear in the event of a fall.

In reply to Clinger:



Good point. The other technique of course is to place one or two very low pieces specifically so that they will take an outward pull, thus leaving you free to roam again

In reply to Gareth T:

I've seen someone do it by using a grigri and pulling the rope though slowly with one hand. While they were doing this they were standing firmly on the slack so that there would be enough of a jolt to lock the device in the event of a sudden fall. he combined that with walking backward and forward as necessary. It was very slick.

In reply to nniff:


I was going to suggest this but held back because you really need an auto locking device, not a semi auto lock or whatever the term is. Should work OK however but not according to the instructions.

The only true auto locker I can think of is a Silent Partner. Will hold a fall but would need other tricks and devices to enable a leader lower off.

In reply to Gareth T:

You've simply got to check out the Edelrid Mega Jul. This is auto locking yet able to run free when the belayer wishes in order for the leader to pull through slack.

Check out this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEU_R2z4YhY&sns=em

In reply to Rick Graham:


Rick, I'm not sure about using an SP in this situation. I think it kind of needs to spin to lock, and if the belayer gave tension on the slack side it might affect this action.

On another note, using any Grigri based system that might end up by some strange turn of events with the belayer clasping the climber's side of the rope would be dangerous. I.e. if you hold the climber's rope (rather than the slack rope) too hard a grigri does not always lock. This is well reported. I assume other assisted locking devices might also have this problem.

In reply to Gareth T:

Gareth, you might like to contact these guys to see if they have any tips:

vimeo.com/51767176

In reply to Gareth T:

<not tried this> I use a Smart and find it doesn't lock up when giving slack, I can use it like an ATC, no hand near the lever to unlock it. Would it be possible to take a direct belay off a ground anchor, using the same hand to hold the live and dead rope? Use a long sling and you could anchor top and bottom to stop it falling to the ground if too much slack is introduced.

I used to use SRCs which required 3 fingers on the dead rope and 2 on the device to unlock when giving slack, it can be done.

You could do this when stepping back as per John Arran's dynamic technique.

In reply to Gareth T:

You could DM Sianagh Gallagher from the GB paraclimbing team for some advise @SianaghG or Nick Middleton @onearmnick

Graeme