UKC

Shoe recommendations

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 Harry Cook 23 Oct 2015
Hi, I'm just starting out door climbing properly and am starting to get my gear together. What shoes would people recommend for outdoor and indoor climbing
Thanks Harry
 Greasy Prusiks 23 Oct 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:

Hi Harry
Getting the best shoe for you is mostly down to fit. Head to a climbing shop and try as many as you can, looking out for a fit that's snug but not overly tight with no gap at the back around your heel. Other than that I'd recommend going for a reasonably flat shoe as you're unlikely to be tackling the kind of route they suit for a little while. If you're new to climbing your first shoes will wear fast so maybe don't break the bank just yet!

Greasy
 GrahamD 23 Oct 2015
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Absolutely right. It's all about fit.
Rigid Raider 23 Oct 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:

Don't Decathlon do climbing shoes? What are they like?
 Greasy Prusiks 23 Oct 2015
In reply to Rigid Raider:

I've got a pair. Very cheap and pretty decent. Not the stickiest though.
 kingborris 23 Oct 2015
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

The 35 quid green ones are OK, but I find they stretch a lot. Go for a reasonably tight pair. They'll loosen up after just a few sessions. They are also quite soft soled so ideal for smearing. Not so great on small edges though.
 dr_botnik 24 Oct 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:

I would not recommend decathalon, go to a shop that has experienced staff, ideally one with a climbing wall so you can actually test them out. Somewhere like the foundry climbing wall in Sheffield is ideal as it has a large range and experienced staff who will offer sound advice, and you can even test the shoes out before you commit to the purchase!
I often see people in the shop there buying their second pair after going somewhere like decathalon and getting sold some overly tight, technical shoe that they just don't enjoy climbing in.
 MonkeyPuzzle 24 Oct 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:
Where do you live?
Post edited at 11:07
OP Harry Cook 24 Oct 2015
In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:
Scunthorpe
 springfall2008 01 Nov 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:

Try go-outdoors if you have one locally, as they have a good selection to try on and some (like our local one) have a climbing wall too. Make sure you wear your chosen pair for a little while before buying, even if it's just stepping up onto a stool and back down a few times. Don't buy something that hurts in the shop, it will only get worse. You want tight but not painful.

I personally like Red Chilli, Miura and Scarpa shoes but it depends on your foot shape.
 Tigger 01 Nov 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:

If your going to Gooutdoors the 5.10 anasazi vcs lasted me a good while despite poor foot work and seemed very versatile. The la sportiva tarantulas seemed pretty flimsy and stretched a country mile, I know a few people who use the blue lace up climb x shoes and pull up 6c's at our local wall easy enough. And remember gooutdoors price match and give a further 10% off :-D
 radddogg 02 Nov 2015
In reply to h.cook2000:

You want something comfortable yet still quite tight. There are many banana shaped shoes designed for extreme grades but they really aren't worth it below trad E1 or sport 6b. You'll be better with a flatter soled shoe I'd you plan any trad as you'll spend much time on ledges and stood around on belays. I'd recommend something easy to put on and take off like Velcro.

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