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About 16 years ago I had a rather nasty fall (On Cotton Terror fact fans) resulting from me managing to pull off a flake and then plummeting to the ground watching my admittedly shitty gear rip out as I fell. This somehow managed to put me off trad quite badly, and sport to an extent. I gave up climbing for ages, started again and got okay again, lapsed, and then got to the state I am now.
I seem to have gained the worlds most sporadic climbing brain. Sometimes I'm happy with leading VSs, sometimes I stick with Diffs, sometimes I really don't fancy leading at all, sometimes I lead 6b outdoors, sometimes I'll stick to seconding. I'll one day be happy soloing grade II, other times I'll gibber at the thought of leading a grade II. Same with alpine climbing.
It's really bloody frustrating as I can lead 6b in general, can have a good pop at 6c indoors, and can second up to E3.
Does anyone have any tips to sort this out? I love climbing but hate this inconsistency. I guess I could work my way back up the grades and get used to trusting gear again is the only thing I can think of really. Or get used to falling again.
I seem to have gained the worlds most sporadic climbing brain. Sometimes I'm happy with leading VSs, sometimes I stick with Diffs, sometimes I really don't fancy leading at all, sometimes I lead 6b outdoors, sometimes I'll stick to seconding. I'll one day be happy soloing grade II, other times I'll gibber at the thought of leading a grade II. Same with alpine climbing.
It's really bloody frustrating as I can lead 6b in general, can have a good pop at 6c indoors, and can second up to E3.
Does anyone have any tips to sort this out? I love climbing but hate this inconsistency. I guess I could work my way back up the grades and get used to trusting gear again is the only thing I can think of really. Or get used to falling again.
In reply to Kid Spatula:
I dare say a lot of us feel this way - I know I do. Maybe not worry about it too much and make the best of the good days. I had very similar experience myself about 20 years ago btw.
If you do find a solution that works then let me know!
I dare say a lot of us feel this way - I know I do. Maybe not worry about it too much and make the best of the good days. I had very similar experience myself about 20 years ago btw.
If you do find a solution that works then let me know!
Post edited at 09:23
4
In reply to Kid Spatula:
I guess the stock reply to this kind of problem is to buy a copy of Dave Mac's "9 out of 10 climbers..." if you don't have it already. It has a lot of good advice on developing the psychological aspects of climbing, particularly the fear of falling.
I guess the stock reply to this kind of problem is to buy a copy of Dave Mac's "9 out of 10 climbers..." if you don't have it already. It has a lot of good advice on developing the psychological aspects of climbing, particularly the fear of falling.
4
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Snap, I had a fall around 15 years ago, a long one, and whacked my head, luckily I had a lid on! Trad leading has been a struggle since that. I am fine sport climbing.
Snap, I had a fall around 15 years ago, a long one, and whacked my head, luckily I had a lid on! Trad leading has been a struggle since that. I am fine sport climbing.
1
In reply to Kid Spatula:
It sounds to me that you are struggling with two areas; motivation and trust in the system. Grades are always important but if you constantly get down on yourself every time you back away from something hard you will just get demotivated. What about thinking about a goal route or routes that you really want to try not because of the grade but because of the line. This could motivate you to overcome your fear.
In regards to the trust issue you need to slowly but progressively learn to trust the climbing system again learning and experiencing safe falls in sport climbing. I'm not much of trad climber so can't really help you in that area except to just keep practising gear placements at the bottom of the crag to improve you skill of placement and your confidence in that skill.
There are a collection of books out there to help:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=434
http://verticalmindbook.com/
Hazel Findley is setting up a mind coaching business so that might help too:
http://hazelfindlayclimbing.com/coaching
It sounds to me that you are struggling with two areas; motivation and trust in the system. Grades are always important but if you constantly get down on yourself every time you back away from something hard you will just get demotivated. What about thinking about a goal route or routes that you really want to try not because of the grade but because of the line. This could motivate you to overcome your fear.
In regards to the trust issue you need to slowly but progressively learn to trust the climbing system again learning and experiencing safe falls in sport climbing. I'm not much of trad climber so can't really help you in that area except to just keep practising gear placements at the bottom of the crag to improve you skill of placement and your confidence in that skill.
There are a collection of books out there to help:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=434
http://verticalmindbook.com/
Hazel Findley is setting up a mind coaching business so that might help too:
http://hazelfindlayclimbing.com/coaching
1
In reply to Tru:
My gear placement is in general good, so I guess it's the case that I just need to start trusting the system.
My gear placement is in general good, so I guess it's the case that I just need to start trusting the system.
In reply to Kid Spatula:
How much mileage are you getting? I haven't fallen off (trad) for about ten years, but when I did it took me a long time (best part of a year) to get confidence back. I had to slowly build up again.
I think the most useful thing for me was gaining confidence in moving on rock, rather than confidence in placing gear. If the climbing feels easy you don't worry yourself about the gear. I used to try and start the year in Jan/Feb with a day on my own at Birchen with bouldering mat, and try to solo as many easy routes as possible. I'd get 40-50 done, starting at mod and working up to HVS. Mostly in the easier grades though. At the start of the day it feels terrifying (I'm not into soloing generally) but by the end of the day you really have a feel for the rock and can move with confidence. This then translated into the leading I'd do later in the season.
You have to build on it though. I live a long way from the rock, and with a young baby I don't get out much, but when I do I'm still climbing reasonably well (E1-E3) from confidence in the moves, rather than in the gear. All the gear confidence in the world won't help you if you think you're going to fall off the moves. Well, I understand that sounds like b0llox and quite counter-intuitive, but it works for me. I've climbed the same easy route (HS for example) and gibbered my way up it, not committing to the moves, desperately looking for more gear than there is, and later climbed it hardly bothering to place gear, having a nice relaxed time. That's because of being in a positive mental state, gained through confidence in my ability to move well on rock, gained from sufficient mileage over the years.
So, focus on climbing well. Don't worry about the grade. Focus on your footwork, on always being in control and in balance, always being able to reverse a move if necessary, breathe, relax, focus on the moment and the rock in front of you, not the space below you. Try to enjoy it: this can be a stressful and risky game and there's no reason to get motivated to participate if you don't enjoy it!
Also, be aware and self-aware on the factors involved when you're climbing well and when you're climbing poorly. What's the weather like? Do you climb better when the sun is out, rather than oppressive grey skies (I know I do!)? Did you have a proper breakfast? Are you hungry? Are you too cold or too hot?
Stick with it. You obviously want to keep going and to get better, which is why you're asking here. Also, know that this isn't uncommon. I'd be pretty sure most climbers on here understand to a degree what you're experiencing. You're not alone. But dealing with it is part of the fun and challenge, which is what makes it such a rewarding endeavour. Good luck!
How much mileage are you getting? I haven't fallen off (trad) for about ten years, but when I did it took me a long time (best part of a year) to get confidence back. I had to slowly build up again.
I think the most useful thing for me was gaining confidence in moving on rock, rather than confidence in placing gear. If the climbing feels easy you don't worry yourself about the gear. I used to try and start the year in Jan/Feb with a day on my own at Birchen with bouldering mat, and try to solo as many easy routes as possible. I'd get 40-50 done, starting at mod and working up to HVS. Mostly in the easier grades though. At the start of the day it feels terrifying (I'm not into soloing generally) but by the end of the day you really have a feel for the rock and can move with confidence. This then translated into the leading I'd do later in the season.
You have to build on it though. I live a long way from the rock, and with a young baby I don't get out much, but when I do I'm still climbing reasonably well (E1-E3) from confidence in the moves, rather than in the gear. All the gear confidence in the world won't help you if you think you're going to fall off the moves. Well, I understand that sounds like b0llox and quite counter-intuitive, but it works for me. I've climbed the same easy route (HS for example) and gibbered my way up it, not committing to the moves, desperately looking for more gear than there is, and later climbed it hardly bothering to place gear, having a nice relaxed time. That's because of being in a positive mental state, gained through confidence in my ability to move well on rock, gained from sufficient mileage over the years.
So, focus on climbing well. Don't worry about the grade. Focus on your footwork, on always being in control and in balance, always being able to reverse a move if necessary, breathe, relax, focus on the moment and the rock in front of you, not the space below you. Try to enjoy it: this can be a stressful and risky game and there's no reason to get motivated to participate if you don't enjoy it!
Also, be aware and self-aware on the factors involved when you're climbing well and when you're climbing poorly. What's the weather like? Do you climb better when the sun is out, rather than oppressive grey skies (I know I do!)? Did you have a proper breakfast? Are you hungry? Are you too cold or too hot?
Stick with it. You obviously want to keep going and to get better, which is why you're asking here. Also, know that this isn't uncommon. I'd be pretty sure most climbers on here understand to a degree what you're experiencing. You're not alone. But dealing with it is part of the fun and challenge, which is what makes it such a rewarding endeavour. Good luck!
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In reply to Kid Spatula:
You're not alone! I didn't have a big fall, but did have a long lay-off (about 10 years) and really struggled getting back into it. I went to the wall regularly and got reasonably fit, but my head was a mess on trad. I'd be a gibbering wreck seconding a mate up a HVS, having previously led plenty of E numbers.
For me, 2 things worked:
1) Not having expectations. I'd go to the crag and have a route in mind (usually something hard out of my comfort zone) and wouldn't do it, so would come away feeling a lack of achievement rather than just enjoying the day's climbing.
2) Lots of leading, particularly out of my comfort zone, so big mountain crags, Pembroke etc (usually climb short grit outcrops).
Books didn't help me I'm afraid.
Ultimately I built it back up slowly, and climbed for the fun of it with no expectations. I still like to have the odd wobble on a tricky S or VS, but have onsighted a few E1s this year and lead an E3 a couple of weeks ago (that I'd previously tried on top rope) so much happier.
I posted some stuff at the time and had some helpful replies: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=626077&v=1#x8146128
You're not alone! I didn't have a big fall, but did have a long lay-off (about 10 years) and really struggled getting back into it. I went to the wall regularly and got reasonably fit, but my head was a mess on trad. I'd be a gibbering wreck seconding a mate up a HVS, having previously led plenty of E numbers.
For me, 2 things worked:
1) Not having expectations. I'd go to the crag and have a route in mind (usually something hard out of my comfort zone) and wouldn't do it, so would come away feeling a lack of achievement rather than just enjoying the day's climbing.
2) Lots of leading, particularly out of my comfort zone, so big mountain crags, Pembroke etc (usually climb short grit outcrops).
Books didn't help me I'm afraid.
Ultimately I built it back up slowly, and climbed for the fun of it with no expectations. I still like to have the odd wobble on a tricky S or VS, but have onsighted a few E1s this year and lead an E3 a couple of weeks ago (that I'd previously tried on top rope) so much happier.
I posted some stuff at the time and had some helpful replies: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=626077&v=1#x8146128
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
That, and also perhaps Arno Ilgers books (Expresso Lessons and Rock Warriorsway or something).
Then something that has helped me... Is focus, that is mental reserves are a lot harder to "train" than muscles. So, start by looking on the topo and ask around for suitable (hard for you) routes. Start to psych your self for said route (but also have a few backup options). When at the crag, start easy and get a good flow going (bouldering, soloing, seconding or easy lead, what ever floats your boat). When you're feelin' good have a look at the route and then it's decision time. Either you go for it, or you move along to one of your backups.... or you don't... but make sure you don't do this every time. Once you're committed (ie. racking up), focus solely on getting it done.
I'm generally not that driven, when it's comes to climbing. It's more about being in the zone and all that crap for me. So if I feel right, I'll try to push myself... even though I'm terrified of falling (with a rope) due to some bad experiences in the distant past. And when I'm pushing myself, I focus on gettin' it done instead of being afraid... one track mind, you know.
So in essence, my will to climb a certain route is greater than the negative payload (fear of failing, fear of falling and fear of injury).
I also do bouldering and redpoint harder routes (with toprope prepractice or by doggin'), and everytime I succeed on those... well, that gives me mental confidence that I can get up the line I want (as generally it is technically easier than the boulders or the redpointed routes) and still have something in reserve.
Cut the long story short... more often than not, mental strength is something that we might run out quicker than physical strength... so pick your battles wisely and get a good mix of "pleasure" climbing with the stressful situations.
> buy a copy of Dave Mac's "9 out of 10 climbers..."
That, and also perhaps Arno Ilgers books (Expresso Lessons and Rock Warriorsway or something).
Then something that has helped me... Is focus, that is mental reserves are a lot harder to "train" than muscles. So, start by looking on the topo and ask around for suitable (hard for you) routes. Start to psych your self for said route (but also have a few backup options). When at the crag, start easy and get a good flow going (bouldering, soloing, seconding or easy lead, what ever floats your boat). When you're feelin' good have a look at the route and then it's decision time. Either you go for it, or you move along to one of your backups.... or you don't... but make sure you don't do this every time. Once you're committed (ie. racking up), focus solely on getting it done.
I'm generally not that driven, when it's comes to climbing. It's more about being in the zone and all that crap for me. So if I feel right, I'll try to push myself... even though I'm terrified of falling (with a rope) due to some bad experiences in the distant past. And when I'm pushing myself, I focus on gettin' it done instead of being afraid... one track mind, you know.
So in essence, my will to climb a certain route is greater than the negative payload (fear of failing, fear of falling and fear of injury).
I also do bouldering and redpoint harder routes (with toprope prepractice or by doggin'), and everytime I succeed on those... well, that gives me mental confidence that I can get up the line I want (as generally it is technically easier than the boulders or the redpointed routes) and still have something in reserve.
Cut the long story short... more often than not, mental strength is something that we might run out quicker than physical strength... so pick your battles wisely and get a good mix of "pleasure" climbing with the stressful situations.
2
In reply to Kid Spatula:
try some top rope falls at the gym, then some lead ones on a 10 degree wall
Also, may sound weird... but if your gear placement is good and you can climb 6b...
Get on harder routes! I often hate climbing VS as there is occasionally a pokey move and lots of ledges. I normally consider it no falling off terrain
try some top rope falls at the gym, then some lead ones on a 10 degree wall
Also, may sound weird... but if your gear placement is good and you can climb 6b...
Get on harder routes! I often hate climbing VS as there is occasionally a pokey move and lots of ledges. I normally consider it no falling off terrain
4
In reply to Kid Spatula:
When you say 'shitty gear', do you mean you knew it was bad when you placed it, or you only knew it was bad afterwards?
I've been most shaken up when I've placed shitty gear but just not realised until I've come off and it's come out. A few things helped me out.
Analysing why my gear was so poor (the wrong gear for the placements) and working out what would be better.
Becoming more relaxed about my climbing objectives, not pushing on when I have niggles about gear, sorting the gear out satisfactorily before I move on or backing off if it feels wrong.
Climbing routes that have good gear and are steep so safe falls. Since they are often hard for the grade this can mean you may fall (or more likely) slump on the rope but that's not a bad thing, it gives you confidence in your gear and harder routes are great for your climbing fitness.
Take your time on routes, stay relaxed, have some confidence in yourself and your climbing, don't pressure yourself on days when it's not working just accept it and know that you'll have other days when it feels right.
When you say 'shitty gear', do you mean you knew it was bad when you placed it, or you only knew it was bad afterwards?
I've been most shaken up when I've placed shitty gear but just not realised until I've come off and it's come out. A few things helped me out.
Analysing why my gear was so poor (the wrong gear for the placements) and working out what would be better.
Becoming more relaxed about my climbing objectives, not pushing on when I have niggles about gear, sorting the gear out satisfactorily before I move on or backing off if it feels wrong.
Climbing routes that have good gear and are steep so safe falls. Since they are often hard for the grade this can mean you may fall (or more likely) slump on the rope but that's not a bad thing, it gives you confidence in your gear and harder routes are great for your climbing fitness.
Take your time on routes, stay relaxed, have some confidence in yourself and your climbing, don't pressure yourself on days when it's not working just accept it and know that you'll have other days when it feels right.
1
In reply to MeMeMe:
It was shitty gear because the climb doesn't really have much decent gear. A few RPs and other various small things. I hit the ground on rope stretch held by the last decent piece which was lucky!
The top our is typical Anglezarke.,
It was shitty gear because the climb doesn't really have much decent gear. A few RPs and other various small things. I hit the ground on rope stretch held by the last decent piece which was lucky!
The top our is typical Anglezarke.,
In reply to Kid Spatula:
First point of analysis should be: is your current mental state when climbing really due to a fall you took 15 years ago or have you/your interests/motivation/some other thing changed?
If its really to do with your fall, its a long time ago but maybe start with a rational analysis of exactly what went wrong and how to respond in future. e.g.
-what happened, why did it happen?
- if you knew it was shitty gear then there is no need to worry about all gear being shitty - response: climb starred routes known to have good gear in future
- if the topout was hideous then how many other routes have the same topout? - response: eliminate this factor from future routes by choosing crags/routes correctly
- etc etc
From this: make a plan and set some goals and a timeline.
I know how you feel because I suffer similarly, e.g. I lack the mental toughness to even sport climb for a week on holiday. Its gutting when from one day to the next you can't achieve the same thing. If you find an answer then I'd love to know what it is!
> It was shitty gear because the climb doesn't really have much decent gear. A few RPs and other various small things. I hit the ground on rope stretch held by the last decent piece which was lucky!
> The top our is typical Anglezarke.,
First point of analysis should be: is your current mental state when climbing really due to a fall you took 15 years ago or have you/your interests/motivation/some other thing changed?
If its really to do with your fall, its a long time ago but maybe start with a rational analysis of exactly what went wrong and how to respond in future. e.g.
-what happened, why did it happen?
- if you knew it was shitty gear then there is no need to worry about all gear being shitty - response: climb starred routes known to have good gear in future
- if the topout was hideous then how many other routes have the same topout? - response: eliminate this factor from future routes by choosing crags/routes correctly
- etc etc
From this: make a plan and set some goals and a timeline.
I know how you feel because I suffer similarly, e.g. I lack the mental toughness to even sport climb for a week on holiday. Its gutting when from one day to the next you can't achieve the same thing. If you find an answer then I'd love to know what it is!
Post edited at 12:33
1
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Totally agree with you man. I'm such a wimp on rock that I get elvis leg leading anything over VS. Get in the gym and I'm fine doing the same moves.
I've had The Sloth at the Roaches on my hit list for months, but every time I get there and look at it the massive roof I get a healthy dose of 'nope'.
Totally agree with you man. I'm such a wimp on rock that I get elvis leg leading anything over VS. Get in the gym and I'm fine doing the same moves.
I've had The Sloth at the Roaches on my hit list for months, but every time I get there and look at it the massive roof I get a healthy dose of 'nope'.
2
In reply to Pewtle:
That's the whole point of The Sloth. It's best to climb it while you still feel that way, because then you'll really get a buzz out of doing it! Don't wait until it's easy for you!
> I've had The Sloth at the Roaches on my hit list for months, but every time I get there and look at it the massive roof I get a healthy dose of 'nope'.
That's the whole point of The Sloth. It's best to climb it while you still feel that way, because then you'll really get a buzz out of doing it! Don't wait until it's easy for you!
8
In reply to ChrisBrooke:
This is good sound advice. There are a few pearls of wisdom on this thread in general though; but we all have different coping mechanisms and strategies.
The psychology of over coming falling only does come from practice; but the fear is still always there. That's in any sport where one can fall unintentionally. My worst have been from equine pursuits which have on occasion threatened my life...falling off riding or from danger on the ground.
Essentially that's what keeps us safe. Don't bother with the grades - that's just bragging rights.
Stick to it - perhaps discuss your views with a coach. They may be able to target a plan to suit you.
My background; PhD in equine behaviour and management. MSc in psychology.
This is good sound advice. There are a few pearls of wisdom on this thread in general though; but we all have different coping mechanisms and strategies.
The psychology of over coming falling only does come from practice; but the fear is still always there. That's in any sport where one can fall unintentionally. My worst have been from equine pursuits which have on occasion threatened my life...falling off riding or from danger on the ground.
Essentially that's what keeps us safe. Don't bother with the grades - that's just bragging rights.
Stick to it - perhaps discuss your views with a coach. They may be able to target a plan to suit you.
My background; PhD in equine behaviour and management. MSc in psychology.
1
In reply to ChrisBrooke:
This may work for you but I have my doubts as to it being a good course of action for most with confidence issues.
I think to most folk, having confidence in the gear is paramount. It's OK climbing as if you're soloing when you're in the zone, but what happens when a foot slips or the exposure suddenly hits you? It's times like those that having the confidence in the gear is a must, otherwise an already timid leader may go to pieces.
I would always start with making sure there is confidence in the system and protection, then you can build up to trying tricky routes. And if you suddenly think 'God this is actually pretty hard!', if there is good gear nearby you can force yourself to keep moving up to the next good hold/gear.
> I'm still climbing reasonably well (E1-E3) from confidence in the moves, rather than in the gear. All the gear confidence in the world won't help you if you think you're going to fall off the moves.
>
>
This may work for you but I have my doubts as to it being a good course of action for most with confidence issues.
I think to most folk, having confidence in the gear is paramount. It's OK climbing as if you're soloing when you're in the zone, but what happens when a foot slips or the exposure suddenly hits you? It's times like those that having the confidence in the gear is a must, otherwise an already timid leader may go to pieces.
I would always start with making sure there is confidence in the system and protection, then you can build up to trying tricky routes. And if you suddenly think 'God this is actually pretty hard!', if there is good gear nearby you can force yourself to keep moving up to the next good hold/gear.
1
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I guess I meant more that confidence in the gear should be implicit - a given almost, and that you'll climb better by focusing on good movement than on gear. Don't get me wrong - I'm not the least bit cavalier about gear, and wouldn't recommend anyone is, especially someone with confidence issues. I'm not known for my boldness at all, but I climb my best (be it on a Vdiff or an E2) when I'm focussing on the moves more than obsessing over the gear, which can be an impediment to upwards progress. You're right though, it's probably not for everyone, and I'm probably not expressing myself terribly well here...
I guess I meant more that confidence in the gear should be implicit - a given almost, and that you'll climb better by focusing on good movement than on gear. Don't get me wrong - I'm not the least bit cavalier about gear, and wouldn't recommend anyone is, especially someone with confidence issues. I'm not known for my boldness at all, but I climb my best (be it on a Vdiff or an E2) when I'm focussing on the moves more than obsessing over the gear, which can be an impediment to upwards progress. You're right though, it's probably not for everyone, and I'm probably not expressing myself terribly well here...
1
1
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Well done falling off cotton terror and walking away. Respect. You are a good climber, stick with it.
Well done falling off cotton terror and walking away. Respect. You are a good climber, stick with it.
1
In reply to JimHolmes69:
I'd bloody finished it as well. The bit that came off was rather large and had some decent gear behind it.
I'd bloody finished it as well. The bit that came off was rather large and had some decent gear behind it.
1
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Get Vertical Mind and Maximum Climbing, two good books on the headgame. You are already half way there by deciding you want 'it' to get better. The trick is consistency and working up slowly. Talking trad climbing I would climb some stuff that is safe, with bomber gear placements, and fall off deliberately (and safely), and then go from there. It won't happen all at once
Get Vertical Mind and Maximum Climbing, two good books on the headgame. You are already half way there by deciding you want 'it' to get better. The trick is consistency and working up slowly. Talking trad climbing I would climb some stuff that is safe, with bomber gear placements, and fall off deliberately (and safely), and then go from there. It won't happen all at once
1
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Here is a simple video to help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsYCKbp6IIc&sns=em
Here is a simple video to help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsYCKbp6IIc&sns=em
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Similar thing here - fall, head injury and a few years of the fear every time a lead came up. Took a years membership at local wall (Depot - £30+ a month is a good incentive to climb lots) and just worked away at getting better and stronger. Really helped. Not saying I'm flying up the Es on a lead, but more consistent at leading, which I think is where I want to be more than anything.
Near misses when it comes to serious injury are difficult obstacles to overcome, but just keep plugging away and enjoying what you do.
P
Similar thing here - fall, head injury and a few years of the fear every time a lead came up. Took a years membership at local wall (Depot - £30+ a month is a good incentive to climb lots) and just worked away at getting better and stronger. Really helped. Not saying I'm flying up the Es on a lead, but more consistent at leading, which I think is where I want to be more than anything.
Near misses when it comes to serious injury are difficult obstacles to overcome, but just keep plugging away and enjoying what you do.
P
1
In reply to Kid Spatula:
I've had loads of lead falls, including a 60 footer that almost stripped the belay. I've only once not got straight back on the job, that was when I suffered 6 spinal fractures and had to walk of the hill carrying a sack unaided. A bit grim!
The injuries meant a long time off climbing, but my return was leading through on Gd4's winter, then back onto rock the following summer.
My head is fine, but my fitness crap, and it is this that governs my confidence. Like the OP, I have also suffered from huge fluctuations in leading grade, but this tends to be for physical reasons. When I'm feeling weak and tired I just can't get my act together at all, even to the extent of failing to get to the crag!!
I've had loads of lead falls, including a 60 footer that almost stripped the belay. I've only once not got straight back on the job, that was when I suffered 6 spinal fractures and had to walk of the hill carrying a sack unaided. A bit grim!
The injuries meant a long time off climbing, but my return was leading through on Gd4's winter, then back onto rock the following summer.
My head is fine, but my fitness crap, and it is this that governs my confidence. Like the OP, I have also suffered from huge fluctuations in leading grade, but this tends to be for physical reasons. When I'm feeling weak and tired I just can't get my act together at all, even to the extent of failing to get to the crag!!
2
In reply to Tru:
" coaching is focused on people who can already climb competently with reasonable technique, and are safe climbers... Please do not inquire (sic) if you cannot climb harder than HVS, 6b, 5.9 or cannot belay safely"
Sub E1 = dangerous & incompetent? That isn't actually what she says, but...
" coaching is focused on people who can already climb competently with reasonable technique, and are safe climbers... Please do not inquire (sic) if you cannot climb harder than HVS, 6b, 5.9 or cannot belay safely"
Sub E1 = dangerous & incompetent? That isn't actually what she says, but...
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In reply to Kid Spatula:
I had a problem when i cut my hand open climbing and needed 19 stitches.
Every time i caught the scar climbing it reminded me of the accident. After years of it holding me back i went to a hypnotist who in the end treated me for the problem as if it was a phobia.
It worked , now the scar doesn't bother me when its caught . Could possibly work for you ??
N
I had a problem when i cut my hand open climbing and needed 19 stitches.
Every time i caught the scar climbing it reminded me of the accident. After years of it holding me back i went to a hypnotist who in the end treated me for the problem as if it was a phobia.
It worked , now the scar doesn't bother me when its caught . Could possibly work for you ??
N
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In reply to Peter Metcalfe:
But what? It isn't what she says at all. Clearly she wishes to focus on training the head game and so is imposing a minimum climbing standard on her clients. I don't see anything wrong with that.
> Sub E1 = dangerous & incompetent? That isn't actually what she says, but...
But what? It isn't what she says at all. Clearly she wishes to focus on training the head game and so is imposing a minimum climbing standard on her clients. I don't see anything wrong with that.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Yep, she appears to be making the clear distinction between instructing and coaching, which is perfectly reasonable.
> But what? It isn't what she says at all. Clearly she wishes to focus on training the head game and so is imposing a minimum climbing standard on her clients. I don't see anything wrong with that.
Yep, she appears to be making the clear distinction between instructing and coaching, which is perfectly reasonable.
In reply to Kid Spatula:
I got rescued from Cotton Terror about 25 years ago. I got to the ledge near the top but couldn't face the mantleshelf cos I couldn't reach the peg and the gear below was crap.
I have had problems at the top of my grade but I try to remember that day and think " I am smart enough to figure a way out" rather than push on blindly. You have the skill, you need to trust your instincts. And not push the boat out too far and too often. Enjoy 99% of your climbing and walk away from the 1% without regret.
I've found that positive mental attitude comes from good rock boots, frequent days out and a fun partner. It builds on itself.
Just remembered the awful Lycra tights I used to wear. The lads hated them so much it used to make me cry - it was worth half a grade due to PMA 😂
I got rescued from Cotton Terror about 25 years ago. I got to the ledge near the top but couldn't face the mantleshelf cos I couldn't reach the peg and the gear below was crap.
I have had problems at the top of my grade but I try to remember that day and think " I am smart enough to figure a way out" rather than push on blindly. You have the skill, you need to trust your instincts. And not push the boat out too far and too often. Enjoy 99% of your climbing and walk away from the 1% without regret.
I've found that positive mental attitude comes from good rock boots, frequent days out and a fun partner. It builds on itself.
Just remembered the awful Lycra tights I used to wear. The lads hated them so much it used to make me cry - it was worth half a grade due to PMA 😂
Post edited at 19:47
In reply to planetmarshall:
Yes, agreed, it's obviously her call. But if HF wants to make some of her living out of training / coaching (as most professional climbers appear to be trying to do) then cutting out about 75% of the potential clientele up front doesn't seem like a great business plan. Maybe that paragraph was just poorly-worded but it struck me as rather elitist.
Yes, agreed, it's obviously her call. But if HF wants to make some of her living out of training / coaching (as most professional climbers appear to be trying to do) then cutting out about 75% of the potential clientele up front doesn't seem like a great business plan. Maybe that paragraph was just poorly-worded but it struck me as rather elitist.
Post edited at 21:31
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