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Yorkshire Highball Suggestions

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 joe.91 27 Oct 2015
Well its finally starting to turn to grit season and I'd like to start doing some highballs this winter after a year or two off the grit. Can anyone recommend some good intro highballs in yorkshire, up to around 7A? Need to get a little braver before I start pushing!

The following are already on the list!

- Syrett's Roof
- Naked Edge, I'll Bet She Does, And She Was
- Hovis/Direct/Superdirect
- Psycho, Rabbits Paw Wall, Angels Wall, Great Flake (maybe later...)
 Graham Booth 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Permutation Rib
 Graham Booth 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:
Rat Au Vin
Grape Nut
Post edited at 13:29
In reply to joe.91:

Horror arete
Acme wall
 Graham Booth 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Syretts roof isn't really a high ball

White Doe
Poetry in motion
OP joe.91 27 Oct 2015
In reply to Graham Booth:

Exellent keep them coming

Already done Horror Arete, and Syrett's Roof felt high when I tried to rock over last time!
 robertmctague 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

There's a good trio of highballs at Little Brimham; Cowboy Daze, Boris or Bust and Licence to Thrill.
 Owen240 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Marrowbone Jelly.
OP joe.91 27 Oct 2015
In reply to Owen240:

Think that maybe pushing it a little! Some more around E3/4 6C would be good. Also remembered Needle of Dreams too!
 jkarran 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Some easier ones:
Slipstones: Tiptoe, Steve's Wall, Paul's Arete, Timeless Divide (worth a rope maybe), Ripper, Seven Up, Sowden
Caley: Tip Off
Brimham: Botany Bay, The Arch, Rottifer

jk
 robin mueller 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

What about Lancashire? Some good ones there too.

Assuming you are most keen for natural grit...

Cleft Of the Brave, Turnpike Roof, Vanguard - Blackstone Edge - @1.25 youtube.com/watch?v=HWdcpJPEi6U&
Loads at Holder Stones, walk in puts most people off - couple of new ones @5.12 vimeo.com/137792116
Flak, plus easier ones to the left, then also in the quarry Los Endos, The Don, Screwy, Romeo Error, Nyan Cat - Cow's Mouth - only got a vid of Nyan Cat, this will feel higher with no snow youtube.com/watch?v=xm4Pzmy_TMg&

Lots at Thorn Crag, Windy Clough, Bull Stones, but I'm guessing you know about those already. Some good stuff in the quarries too.
Removed User 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

It's really Lancashire but how about Winsome in Chew Valley?
 lumu_tit 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Successor state at Brimham
Needle of dreams at Scout hut crag
 Jon Stewart 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Great thread! Most of my favourites and aspirations have already been mentioned - but nothing at the Glen!??!

There's too many to list, but the cream of the crop include Vim (amazing 6b arete), Manson's Wall (6c crimping), Phil's Wall (7a+, never managed it), Millstone Grip (6c slopey crimps), and countless others. Things get really high around Hammil's Horror if you're feeling brave...
 Graham Booth 27 Oct 2015
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Oh that's remiss!

Daz and Blitzen as well
 Andrew Wilson 27 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

High Noon
Naked Edge
Ricks Rock

3 absolute crackers!
 Jon Stewart 27 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

> It's really Lancashire but how about Winsome in Chew Valley?

It's Peak, that is.
Removed User 27 Oct 2015
In reply to Jon Stewart:

What makes you think those two things are mutually exclusive?
In reply to joe.91:

Ron's Crack II (f7A+) is a great highball at around 7A.
OP joe.91 28 Oct 2015
In reply to Richard Hession:

Lots of ones for me to have a go at now, thanks!
 AlistairB 28 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Since nobody's suggested them so far I'd add the Gypsy and Opus on the Virgin block at Almscliff to your list. Best enjoyed with a couple of spotters and plenty of pads!
 Dave Musgrove 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Andrew Wilson:

If High Noon is now considered a highball then it's time I retired!
 Wft 29 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Haven't been myself but I've been directed towards going to Great Wolfrey by Will Hunt, the highballing there looks exceptional.

There's an FB group called 'gritstone pad parties' that you might like to join.
 jkarran 29 Oct 2015
In reply to GuyVG:

Great Wolfrey is awesome
jk
OP joe.91 29 Oct 2015
In reply to GuyVG:

Hi Guy, I've seen the group and I'm a member! Think I'm going to head Crookrise on Sunday, fairly close, a few things to get my teeth cut into highball wise and some problems I'd like to start working

Thanks for all the suggestions, got quite a few to have a go at now!
Phil Ev 29 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Caley:

Death Drop 2000 and Ricks Rock, both total quality!
 Dave Warburton 29 Oct 2015
In reply to AlistairB:
> Since nobody's suggested them so far I'd add the Gypsy and Opus on the Virgin block at Almscliff to your list. Best enjoyed with a couple of spotters and plenty of pads!

Also The Lady which climbs the forgotten left arete is excellent above pads.

Rewind at Thruscross is about Font 7a or something and quite good. There's enough other stuff there to keep you going for a session too.
Strone Road at Scout Hut is well worth doing - certainly as good as Needle of Dreams
Killer, Space Plucks and Sinbad at Slipstones are brilliant and should be climbed more.
Dead Babies at Eastby is one of my favourites - gentle pebble climbing on a rounded arete with a moderately high crux.
Daytona Wall, Cow's Mouth (bit Lancashire... bit high)
Post edited at 14:57
 Dave Warburton 29 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:
Also, some of the 'old school' Yorks Limestone venues host a few lost and forgotten '7m E4 6b's' and similar which are usually desperate for the grade and make for great highballs nowadays. Attermire for example.
Post edited at 14:51
OP joe.91 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Dave Warburton:

Thats a good shout, also remembered Windmore End too
 Will Hunt 29 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Those which you have mentioned are good. Syrett's doesn't really feel like a highball to be honest. The Hovis problems are excellent intro highballs as they take you to a height that you really mustn't fall off from, but the hard climbing is all very close to the floor.

Psycho is not quite an "introductory" slab climb but the difficulty is only about 6B+. As a friend said to me before I did it "you won't fall off it, you might lose your nerve and jump off though". Rabbits Paw and Angel's Wall are both classics but also very easy.

Great Wolfrey is staggering but the climbs there are hard and, although the tops of the climbs are generally easier, they are also of a height where falling off is not to be advised. In Memoriam is good and very soft at the grade (E4 6a for a trad solo we thought. Font 6B/+ with a non-falloffable few top moves with a few pads). There are only a few climbs at Wolfrey that work well as highballs that are sub 7A. Walter's Rib is exceptional. A little vid of a few things here:
vimeo.com/137780060

The three that Robert mentions at Back Brimham are very good and none are too taxing or overly high.

The best easy highball in Yorkshire (in my book) is Make My Heart Fly at Yeadon crag. Its only about 5+/6A but the crux is right at the top and I still find it a pant filler despite having done it several times. You can also test your mettle against The Cestrian (7A+) which isn't very high but has the crux at the top, and the as yet unrepeated The Arkenstone (7A+/maybe 7B?) which has the crux at the bottom. Guide is here: http://unknownstones.com/yeadon/

Plenty at Brimham (which I haven't done) like Successor State and Ritornal.

As mentioned, Poetry in Motion and the White Doe are excellent. Don't neglect Ghost Road which is equally worthy of attention and if you're going well and feel confident on slabs and have a few pads in tow then Verge of Tranquility is quite out there (6C+ frictiony slab climbing/E5 6b).


And if you get all of those done then you are going well!
 Will Hunt 30 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Having looked now at your profile, it seems you are quite a strong young man. So you should lift your sights above the 7A limit once you get your eye into highballing. Looking at your ticklist of favourite climbs it seems you're a roof monster so Syrett's shouldnt present any obstacle whatsoever! You could also consider Orchrist if you have enough pads and certainly Bancroft's Roof which is higher than Syrett's but considerably easier.
One Man and His Dogmas is supposed to be good at Caley. If you were to do that and the Great Flake in a day it would be a great trip to the crag. Scary Canary is a nice wall climb but isn't really very highball.

Tick off Dinomania whilst you're at the Naked Edge boulder. You'll need a few pads.

There is no shortage of roof style highball FAs to be done on the Prune Boulder at Yeadon. I've even brushed a couple on ab for you! (If you go up with intent, take a good brush and a half rope. The belay is a large thread backed up by some medium/large cams).

Little Red Riding Hood at Great Wolfrey.
OP joe.91 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Will Hunt:

Thanks for the info Will! Aye tried Syrett's before and bottled the final rock over move. Great Wolfrey looks really cool, definitely worth a trip up that way! Heading to Crookrise sunday, think I'll set my sights on Hovis, etc.
 Will Hunt 30 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Have a look at Small Brown and Massive Attack while you're there. Take a few pads for those!
 Alex the Alex 30 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

Sadcocs Wall might fit the bill too whilst you are up there? Its always scared me anyway... Then there were a few down the hill that looked very good, Dream Weaver, Fagin and Crucifix, but looked like they would need a few pads. And though its not highball in the slightest, Karjala is class!
 Will Hunt 30 Oct 2015
In reply to joe.91:

The only problem with Karjala is that it is possibly Yorkshire's most incorrectly graded problem. People go up expecting a very good 7A+ and get one of Yorkshire's best 6B/+ problems. Obviously its nice to do a nice problem but if you go up expecting a fight then its disappointing.
 Goucho 31 Oct 2015
In reply to Dave Musgrove:

> If High Noon is now considered a highball then it's time I retired!

+1

I'd love to see how effective even a stack of mats would be if you came off the top moves, but it would certainly be interesting?
In reply to robin mueller:

Davis Vetter 7a+ still awaits a third ascent.......

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