UKC

Sa Font, Majorca - anyone else visited?

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 TobyA 27 Oct 2015

Has anyone else visited Sa Font, above Pollensa, Majorca? We had a quick visit this morning as we are staying nearby but with only the info here on UKC plus this website that I found: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/spain/mallorca/area/758937831 we were a bit unsure what routes we did.

I think we climbed Left Hand Route (the first line of bolts we could find on the left) but that felt much harder than the given grade of 4c. The next five lines along going rightwards were all sort of like what the topo grade suggested, although all felt more similar than their grades suggested.

The climbing isn't super impressive, but it's pleasant, well bolted and the outlook is fantastic: https://instagram.com/p/9V6_WOrvNq/
Post edited at 13:49
In reply to TobyA:
Yes, not a great crag. When we visited a few years ago it looked like the building development might have an impact on access. Has that happened?

Suffice to say that it hasn't made the cut in the latest Rockfax guidebook due out in the new year.

However we do have news on another eight brilliant crag developments and new crags which are well worth look.

Torre d'en Beu - Superb crag near Santanyi and offering similar climbing. 20 routes of 4 + to 7a ish.

Ca's CatalĂ  - Nice sunny crag near Palma with a good spread of routes in the low and mid grades.

Cala Llamp - Amazing sea cliff crag with a wild cave of harder routes. We haven't added all the routes yet but the grades are one 6a+, then 6c, 7a and upwards.

Penyal d'es Grau - Nice wall near Puigpunyent (hence a bit of a drive) with a great set of mid-grade routes in the 5 to 7a range.

Es Grau des Ruc - Shady hard crag up the road towards Lluc.

There are also major new sectors at S'estret (keep going past Sector Mejicano - the steep one) and at Caimari further up the road from Muro de Caimari at Caimari and a complete overhaul for Sa Mola de Felantix which now has 40 well-bolted routes and is one of the better places on the island for low grade climbing.

Alan
Post edited at 16:19
OP TobyA 27 Oct 2015
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

> When we visited a few years ago it looked like the building development might have an impact on access. Has that happened?

Nope. Still a big gravel turning circle at the end of the road up - very easy parking and access. Great views from there.

> Suffice to say that it hasn't made the cut in the latest Rockfax guidebook due out in the new year.

Interestingly, from a punter perspective, the easyish routes there that we did there were way superior to the couple of 5+s I did a few days ago at Es Fumat, both of which get a star each. The routes at Sa Font actually had some really fun moves - massive jugs but big moves inbetween them. I know 5+s aren't really what Fumat is about, but they did still get those stars from the Rockfax team!

On a vaguely related note of it being in Majorca - but a somewhat different scale to say the least - does anyone know if any lines have been done from the sea onto the Caval Bernat Ridge? We did the second part of the ridge yesterday and found three bolts on the crest which I could only think were maybe a lower in point for routes on the North Face? Would be pretty exciting to say the least abseiling off that ridge!

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